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My First Builds

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Hi all,

as you have probably read, I've swamped the introduction section with an ongoing babble about two builds I am now committing to for the Tasman proxy series.

Although it is highly unlikely I will have anything ready for the upcoming series, I intend to make an effort.... but realistically, expect to enter in the following one... hope the rules don't change..


My builds have now been confirmed to that of the Cooper T53 and the Brabham BT-3.

I have been advised that I will be allowed some margin to fit 15" wheels to the BT-3 in order to comply with the minimum tyre diameter.


So far, my arrangements are pending - awaiting order and supply.. but I expect all orders will be placed by today -some have been, and now I have confirmation - the remainder will be placed.


These will be my first slot car scratch builds - I fully expect to make many, many mistakes and follow the path of repeating construction until it is acceptable.


I have a "reasonable" level of experience in scratch building HO scale locomotives - completely from the bare materials up... excluding manufacturing motors, gears etc. I have further limited experience with building r/c model aircraft working from plans and raw materials... so, I'm hoping I can effect a reasonable product in this new and exciting venture into modeling...


My orders so far consist of two Cooper T53's and two Brabham BT-3's a pair of each from different suppliers. I have asked for the wheel inserts for both at 15" and 0.450" inserts.


I am about to order two SR181D41600X SRP FF 050 motors from Pendle's and four BWA FF 050 motors from D'Art.... hopefully, I can get them - those from Pendle I'm confident with - not so much with D'art.....


I am about to place an order for wheels, crowns and pinions from Steve at Ranch Designs..

The wheels will all be 15" - rears : WCF15x6-2 wheels for the rear and WCF15x5-2 for the fronts.

All these wheels will be for 3/32" axles.


Steve tells me Paul Gage can supply urethane tyres for these wheels, namely - PGT-21072 tyres for the rear and the PGT-20062 for the front - this is yet to be confirmed.


I ordered a number of sets of motor and front end brackets from Cam in Woolongong but now intend to fabricate my own front guide plate and tube.

The rear brackets will be used - I am considering fitting Oilites to the large axle bearing holes in these brackets.


I went into Australian Jeweler's Supplies in Melbourne last week and purchased a ceramic soldering tile.. after Ember set me in the direction she took.


I have purchased some piano wire of .062" and .055" for construction of the chassis plus some 1/2" wide brass strip of varying thicknesses.


I intend to find a LHS who stocks a wider range and pick up some 3/32" aluminium rod plus some brass tubing.


At this point in time, I believe I'll attempt to have the front wheel rotation independent - if it gets too hard, I'll revert back to original plan and use the grubs to secure hubs to the 3/32" axle.


I have watched a series of instructional video's on chassis construction - and am very eager to make a start (and not so eager for the expected mistakes). The series makes constant reference to "sodder" - which really grates on my understanding of the English language.... perhaps it is called "Sodder" over in the North Pacific -congruous with the interpretation of "aluminum"..... I don't know, we are strange cattle - even my colleagues across the ditch have a different interpretation of Suburu.... so, perhaps - I'll learn to de-sensitise my ears to "sodder"....


Ok - so, I've made a start... no pix yet, because I have nothing to show... but I'm hoping to give regular blow by blow posts as progress (and regress) evolves... along with a stray pic here and there...


Please, folk - I am extremely receptive and encourage any response to procedings... I will not take any offence at constructive (excuse pun) criticism and hope that others who chose to follow these builds might chime in with suggestions.


I am extremely grateful to Phil, Alan, John, Steve, Mark and Ember (sorry if I've neglected to include anyone) for their assistance in getting these projects to a fruitious beginning..




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Ok folk,

exciting developments in proceedings.

My wheels and gears are to be machined by Steve at RD in the next day or two... and I will be now ordering enough to complete the four models.


Further to this, John has boxed up my resin bodies and parts and hopes to have them on Santa's sleigh tomorrow.


He has given me permission to post the pix below - and I'm like the kid who is sitting under the tree waiting for the presents to arrive... mystically, as we all did - until someone older spilled the beans.. because some one older did that to them.... then came Easter Bunny ... etc. etc..etc.. and as parents, we tell our kids never to lie.....


This pic shows the two models - the Cooper T53 and the Brabham BT-3.

John tells me that the exaust is a bit of an issue with the Cooper and it is probably worthy to consider fabricating some from aluminium tubing... which I will most likely do.....


Pic -




The next pic is just of the Cooper - but in larger detail..




and finally the Brabham ..




So, now I wait....


the wheel inserts are for 15" wheels at 0.0450" - which Steve assures me will be excellent fits for the wheels he is now machining.


I have still yet to secure some more componentry for the chassis - guide flags, tubing along with the motors... but I will shortly have something I can work on, other than planning...




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Hi folk,

I spent nearly 6 hours last night wading through the internet to find material on the T-53.. precious little for such a (then) popular car...


I am rapidly heading towards considering the Ian Burgess T-53... I don't know if it was Climax powered - or if indeed, Ian finally got to get it to a grid position.. the one reference I did find was that he failed to qualify...


I believe I will most likely use the white with blue stripe livery of this car for one of my two builds.. and submit to the "usual" green and white striped version for the other.. it was a "traditional" Cooper garage livery... and I "should" have one in my collection.


I am unable to find any line drawings or plans for the T-53 - and call on the forum membership for assistance or direction to them if anyone knows of them.


I did read that a member of another forum built a T-53 using a Scalextric body (modified) and a scratch built chassis.. I am about to attempt to make contact and buzz him with more questions than he is probably prepared to respond to...


I am now believing that the two T-53's will be my very first builds.. and then onto the BT-3's....


As with scratch-building locomotives, I am hoping to find it more productive and less time consuming to have more than one on the building board at the same time.. providing, of course - that they are basically identical models.


My motors are about to be shipped from Pendle.. absolutely no word from D'Art yet on the other 5.


My axles, bearings and guides have been shipped from Armchair... I'm guessing that my wheels and gears will make the mail by this weekend (US)... if not, no biggie - they'll lob here in the next week or so.... then I can finally put something on the board and work up....


I have given the build some considerable thought - and will probably follow the "sodder" instructional video sequence... almost all of it makes absolute sense - but, it did take a very long time to watch it all... I made heaps and heaps and heaps of notes....


I was in doubt as to which guides to use - but have elected for the Slot-It LMP pick-up (version 2).

When those arrive - I'll be able to find some brass tubing for the stem - I plan on having this a "snug" but free fit.


I am contemplating inventing some wishbone vertical ends for the axle tubes both front and back.

I can make up radius arms from thin piano wire then use this brass washer with the tops and bottoms squared off to mount the arms to - I believe this might give the model a little more definition.


For as complicated as this might seem to some (few) - I don't believe it will compromise the tuning of the model after a crash - the hardened steel axles "should" keep all parts in unison - the silver "sodder" at these washers "should" only have to hold the arms and suspension dampers/springs to the tubing... plans - are "mice and men" come to mind.....


For the rear, I will use MB slot insert bushes for Cam's rear motor bracket - then "sodder" 1/8" tubing from there out to the wishbones. The radius arms will be soldered to the chassis - so there's probably a bit of creative license needed for this to be legal.

I intend, at this stage to fit dampers and springs to the assembly both ends.


The fronts, I will use the Slot-It bronze HRS spherical bushes as shown in the video's - I could get away with just using brass tubing with axles sliding within - but I want to try and attempt "soddering" the chassis rails to these bushes - and re-inforce them with the triangle method.


For the first model, I'll try and fit independent rolling wheels to the front.. I've been considering a few options to effect this...

1/8" tubing "soddered" to the suspension with a brass washer on both sides of the wheel.


A Slot-It hardened steel axle within the tubing will be able to rotate if the fixed washer to axle plan fails.


My plan is to"sodder" the outer washer to the axle with the wheel in situ... the wheels from Steve at Ranch Designs are alloy - so I shouldn't have any issue with them getting fixed to the axle... I'll use the grey-lead pencil graphite coating trick to prevent this.... the coating of flux should be able to flush out with warm to hot water....


The grub screw hole in the rim should afford clearance of anything within - and afford lubrication.


So far, these are my intentions... far from the "KISS" principle for a first model.. but, I simply wouldn't be satisfied with a bare boned chassis - when I know I am capable of producing something just a little more elaborate... and yes, I know it's going to fail and get ugly for the first few attempts at getting it all aligned... but I can be pretty stubborn when it comes to perseverance... people just tend to move out of ear-shot until they hear even greater remarks of success...


We have new neighbors coming in here within the next month or so - I guess they'll soon learn that I, probably like many on this forum - can loose patience....


So, it's moving right along - nothing to see yet... but I can report "things" are moving....


Oh - and by the way - please don't become sensitive to my use of the spoken word "sodder"... if I had to withstand it in those video's - surely, those who find it equally abrasive can tolerate it in my posts.. and, when you watch them next... maybe, just maybe.... we'll all become "numb" to the word...


So, who's up to pointing me to some line drawings or plans?.... I am ever so keen to get my beady little eyes on them...




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You can wait up to 4-5 weeks for a response from Dart - probably longer with the holiday season. Why not add the other motor that is available from Pendles to your order - at the very least you'll have a motor to play with. If you get stuck I can pop a couple in the post whilst you await for Dart.


Best bit of advice I can give you is not to solder anything with the motor in-place. I made the tragic mistake last year of finishing some soldering with the motor attached to the motor bracket.

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Thanks Miverson,

yes - i am fully expecting that it will be during/after the first month of 2015 before I am told they "are no longer available".. but, I've ordered them anyway...


I did increase the Pendle order to 4 - balanced the books out at $61.36 shipped on today's exchange rate...


Thanks for your offer - I'll sit on this one for now.


Yes - understand that the tin plate on motors is "very" attracted to "sodder"... I intend to take precautions - I have an old Scaley FF 050 motor... if it measures up the same as those to be fitted - I can sacrifice it.. if my attempts to isolate the joint fail....


Tick, tick, tick - where's that blasted postman - busy I guess........




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A simple idea for the front is to use a 1/16 wire front axle, fit 3/32 tube over the wire then the 3/32 where's can simply be slipped over the tube and locked on with the grub screw.

I you use the Slot it bearings on the front alignment will be critical, also there is no real need for the tube on the rear.The bearings in te bracket are sufficient.these motors are very low powered.

The two fastest cars tatvI have had on my track were Stubbos Brabham last year and Mmoose's Lotus that he based his build thread on. His car did not even have rear bearings, te rear axle was running in tube.





Hobart Miniature Car Club


Tassie Resins










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Thanks Alan - heaps, in fact. I have made very efficient use of the documents you directed me to.... I now have some data and pix.


Phil, again - you come to the fore with assistance. It took me a little while to understand the 1/16" wire inside 3/32" tube arrangement for the front axle, but I got there.

Now I have more options to consider.

My wheels have been drilled for 3/32" - and your suggestion will work well with them.


As for the rear - I note agreement that the motors governed by the series rules are indeed very low power.. and I would expect will not ever pose issue with the MB slot bronze/brass bearings I have coming for the projects.


I believe the car I am to model has the improved rear coil spring arrangement - in '59 - '61, there were indeed some significant changes made... I have not read or seen mention of the 1.5 litre motor yet.. and it may very well be that I base my model on the 2.2 litre Climax powered Cooper T53.... if there was one - still researching.


As stated, I will be producing two of these great little cars... one in the black jack livery - driver unknown at present.. and the other in the Ian Burgess version.


So, more information and momentum to the project - I will mark out my ceramic tile today - and commence to produce an exact scale drawing from the information Alan has kindly directed me to above...




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The T53 Cooper was built as the 2.5 litre car, for 1960. The company then produce 17 chassis for customers and 3 for the works cars that would be T55,s .

One of these customer cars came to Australia as a new car, for one only BS Stillwell.

Because the FPF motor was the same block for both 2.5 and 1.5 there were few changes.



Hobart Miniature Car Club


Tassie Resins










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Thanks Phil - so, we're eligible for entry to the Tasman Proxy series, as I understand it... yippee...


I've sent you an email... and will respond promptly on your reply.




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Bump, sorry folk - I've been a little reticent on keeping this thread up to date..

Here's an progressive update.


I did the axle bushes first - deciding (rightly or wrongly)that I'd put the large flange on the inside - so that I could fit spacers between the crown and inside of the bushes... as opposed to running brass tubes outwards from the bracket... if I'm wrong - please tell me, I've stopped for now waiting to do #2 (building two of these up together).


First attempt to fit the looped rail around the bracket went extremely well.... until I trial fitted it under the body... loop sat far too far back and fouled the rear of the body.... so, unsolder (that hurt - I thought I had it absolutely smack on).


Brought the rails in a bit at the rear of the loop then sent them out to chassis width just after they crossed the rear of the bracket.... it now will clear the body - and still allow some more clearance for body float if I want to gouge out some of the meat....


The axle floats/spins extremely free in the bushes... I did this by aligning them with 3/32" aluminium tubing then soldered them in before adding the rails later..


I had to work the bracket a bit to get the rails to run square with the motor mount face - and square vertically to the axle...

I believe I have got it all lined up square in all directions.


The bracket needed to be opened out to allow it to sit squarely on the rails - with both of them sitting on the building board.


So, folk - here are the first three pix of the project.... I know my joints and soldering won't impress many - but for my first (well, second - if you count the one I "undone") attempt - I'm pretty happy...


As mentioned, I don't have the motors or gears yet... but surely, this bracket and rails could be assembled with the bushes soundly soldered in place....


I would strongly encourage any comments please - I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing - and if what I am doing is anywhere near what is needed....











I have now almost completed the basic chassis, the front bracket is causing me heaps of grief - spent all yesterday afternoon making one up - only to find it is either too wide for fitting inside the rails - or too narrow for them to fit between the sides.... today is another day...





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And almost to where I'm currently at -


My motors arrived from England - I don't know through which countries they traveled, but in some of them - the word "fragile" obviously is beyond their comprehension.... my four motors arrived sliding around in a rather large box for the requirement... the attempt to wrap them in bubble wrap was probably acceptable on dispatch - but on arrival - the motors and bubble wrap were removed singularly....


On three of the motors, the identification has all but rubbed off.. so, I expect that these poor little things have "lived" already... I cannot see any physical damage - but they have indeed "rubbed shoulders" in transit.. I will need confirmation from the series co-ordinator that they are in fact eligible... with only the remnants of the fine black print visible on the bodies.


I have given a little thought to chassis adornments. My suspension (static) design is yet to be planned out - I've got some broad-brush ideas in my mind's eye.. but nothing established yet.... basically a pair of piano wire wishbones and perhaps a brass end washer just before the hub - plus some form of wound fine wire coil spring - this time around, that's probably more than I'm capable of.. I love to add the minute detail that some of the experienced builders on this forum have effected - and also to the level of that with some of the locomotives I have built... but, for these two - I'm probably even a little more adventurous in my plans than I would be advised to entertain.

I assembled the rear section of chassis #2 - with a lot more pleasing results than #1... but, I may have fitted the chassis rails too far forward... until I get the gears (crown) from RD - I won't know. To me, it looks as if I've left enough room for a small crown to the rear loop of the rails.


(I later went back to the RD site and found that the 24 tooth crowns have a diameter of 9.09 mm. I measured my clearance and found that I have 13mm from the axle centre-line to the rail end loop. This should afford a clearance from the crown to the end rail loop of 3mm.)


Until the crowns arrive, I'll sit tight on any further work at the rear of the chassis and focus/concentrate on the front brackets.

I decided to finally set about trimming one of the two Cooper bodies I have - and was very happy with the way the material worked.

I should have taken more initially, but decided to chop (read - butcher) the rear bracket back very heavily in an attempt to leave as much body as possible... I went way too far - but it may yet prove to be acceptable.... comments please.


I re-worked the body again and finally added the motor to the bracket - more cutting, gouging and sanding away of the body now revealed that I'd take too much of the rear bracket in some areas - and just enough in most others....


I have trial fitted what I believe to be the rear axle location and height - and I will have as little ground clearance as the series administrator/scrutineer will allow... that being 1.6mm.... if I'm game to go that low.


The rails sit up nicely within the body and the motor now has a very nice fit under the firewall behind the driver.


I welcome (encourage) comments please... I have a spare bracket should what I have butchered suggest this one was taken too far.
















Please disregard the rough filing of the bracket - I'll dress that up a bit if/when the general consensus is that it is acceptable.

And....it may appear that the chassis is out of alignment... it probably is to some extent - the rails have not yet been re-positioned with a front plate... and, it appears that the bracket/motor are not square to each other - I can very much state that they are...


I have now ordered a set of different thickness spacers to fit between both sides of the crown and the internal face of the MB Slot bushes.

I intend to remove as much side-play as possible to achieve a very controlled meshing of the pinion and crown teeth.


Today, back out in the workshop to try and make up another front bracket - which fits.


The front brackets I recently purchased won't fit inside or outside the rails either - unless I re-fold them or put a dog-leg in the rails, which I don't believe is acceptable.


The front and rear brackets purchased were, I believe - to be fitted inside the rails.


With the narrow body of this little car, I decided to fit them on it. I filed out a notch in the lateral face so that it could sit on the rails.

The front bracket is the exact width of the rails I have created and will sit too high on them if used.


My axle height centre-line to base of chassis rails is 6mm... that was may target yesterday, which I achieved... my folding skills leave much (2 mm) to be desired - the bracket I created ended up right on the width of the chassis rails - I will attempt to make one up today which fits snugly outside the rails with an extension forward for the guide bearing tube.




Edited by rosco01

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Hey rosco, happy New year Mate. You must have the patience of Job. Good stuff so far.

Keep the photos coming and it might encourage me to have a go as well.

Edited by Wobble


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David, Ember suggested that it would be prudent to purchase pinions of the same source - as they would most likely mesh better.. so, rather than have to ship again from the "good old" - I ordered four each of 8T and 9T brass....

My belief (right or wrong) is that for many years, crowns fitted by the bigger manufacturers had a ratio of 3:1... so, with a 24 tooth crown - I opted for 8 tooth pinions.. but, just in case the little cars were light enough and ran out of legs.... I ordered four of the 9 tooth as well.

The little RD crowns are only 9.09mm in diameter... I am still waiting...


Bram, I've been dead keen to make a start on building something up from scratch. I'm just amazed at the help, guidance and assistance I've been given.


I suppose, if you wanted to take any lead from me for your first one - is probably not to hit a small model such as this first up.... they are very, very tight and tolerances are pretty much of that which I found myself struggling with 30 years back when scratch-building model locomotives.... in 1:87 scale.


But, piano wire is cheap - the amount of brass you will need won't cost you much more than a stubby or two - and you probably have more parts in your spare parts box than you realise.... it's about getting into it and making a start - certainly will occupy your thoughts when you find yourself twiddling you thumbs....


Ok, folk - absolutely huge day today..... "rosco" has a smile on his face tonight - and I'm hoping those more senior members and experienced builders aren't going to wipe it away from me....


I set out again on making another front bracket - almost got to the workshop... the heat was building up on this horrible day... so, I believed anything I did wasn't going to go without some effort and conscious drive to avoid getting flustered.


I went back inside looking for Cam's front brackets and decided to have cool drink and a bit of a sit-back and look from a distance.


My rails were too narrow and too wide for anything to work - but, I tweaked that if I propped up the bracket on a spacer - the assembly would work.

I did this - and then got out the little ruler for axle height - I was ever so happy to find that the axle centre-line sat at exactly 6.5mm from the board - as did the rear bracket axle bush centre-lines. The rest was easy.... well, almost.... just took nine hours to reach where I am this evening....


I'll start after soldering the bracket in - then cutting the surplus rails off and cutting the bracket excess away so that it allowed the chassis to fit in the little Cooper body.


I had to further grind out some of the body casting - but eventually, the entire chassis was swallowed up within the body.


The next step was to make some arrangement for the guide tube.

I loosely fitted the guide in the hole then offered the chassis into the body - more and more body material had to come out to allow it to pivot... but it did, and left enough meat there to afford considerable protection when the unfortunate errant driver misbehaves....


The next step involved cutting away at the bracket again to allow the guide free movement left and right - thank goodness for Dremels... but, I dunked the entire lot regularly into cold water to prevent it overheating and melting the silver-solder....


We are now starting to get a bit excited - I can, for the first time - see this little car on the track...


I needed to cut and fit a brass tube bearing for the guide stem. I found some tubing which was an interference fit with the Slot-It guide post, then luckily found another piece which was a snug fit inside that. As luck would have it, a nail used to locate various parts on my building/soldering tile also was a snug fit.... so - the combination of all three now allowed the tube to be positioned almost perfectly vertical and square to the chassis.... almost!


I measured up the ride height of the chassis - allowing for the 19.05 mm minimum diameter of tyres for the series - then set the chassis up so that the axle height was 10 mm.....

I decided to cut the guide tube quite long - to afford filing down either way once the chassis was fitted with its wheels and true'd tyres (still waiting for delivery).


Soldering in the tube was no easy task - although I had taken careful measures to keep it exactly where I wanted it - it moved under the weight of the soldering iron... a few tweaks here and there - with multiple dunkings in water to prevent the entire assembly floating apart... and I believe I achieved as close a result that I can without making up a specific jig....


To get to this point, it was mid-afternoon - I'd have given up if outside in the workshop trying to bend a self-made bracket by now...


In the first pic, you can see Cam's unadulterated/un-butchered bracket as delivered.








I fitted the guide and checked it for level and square in my set-up board.... I was pretty happy with this.




So now, with the body propped up where I believe it will finally sit on the chassis - and the guide set in my set-up board.... I can see that there is yet a bit more tweaking to do before I'll be happy with ride height - mainly due to the guide sitting so high at present.... waiting for the wheels and tyres etc. etc....




Way back previous to this, when I soldered the bracket to the rails, I checked the axles for parallel..... you can see in the pic that the brass 3/32" tubing of the front axle in its bracket is pretty much parallel to the 3/32" aluminium tubing passing through the rear axle bushes..yes, pretty happy at this point.




Again, earlier - when I set up the soldering tile with both axles set square to the chassis rails and parallel to each other...the little piece of circuit board was used to hold the chassis rails up at the front whilst the brass guide tube was soldered into place... this gave me a little bit of margin to play with when final adjustment for guide height is determined.




So, here we are again - this time with the guide in place - hanging over the end of the tile...




And finally, as it sits tonight - just prior to me wandering off for a cold beer or three....

Pay no attention to what looks like the chassis rails converge towards the front... it's an optical illusion.. either camera angle or the body was slighty off centre/angled...... both rails run straight down both lines of holes as you can see in an earlier pic.




Now that I've got this far with Cooper #1... I will probably sit on this for some time... and my attention turns back to Cooper #2.. I won't take such drastic measures with butchering the second motor bracket - nor cut so deeply into the body...


Hope you get something from this... this is my first build - I can tell you quite adamantly - it most certainly will not be my last...... whether it runs or not - I'm sort of not worried.... most of my models spend nearly all their lives static anyway.... you simply can't run them all in any one session.......




Edited by rosco01

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Thanks Phil,

guess I might have some 8T as spares then.... never know - might even throw an order in for a 23T crown.... just more options in ratio from 9/24 to 8/23.... just a shave lower geared.


I hope my work looks ok to you?... I simply don't know what's required at this entry level..




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Ross, I have just read through the thread and enjoyed it. I can sympathise with the first steps you are taking.


Everything looks as it should except....in one shot the motor looks like it is high in the body. Sometimes I will bend the main rails downwards in the middle to lower the endbell end of the motor.....I call it a digger style after early dragsters. As long as the motor is centred on the axle then it doesn't have to be parallel to the ground.


But all said I am impressed with your skill level and the results so far.


Those bloody wheels are the problem now.

John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Thanks John,

yes - that motor was sitting up pretty high. I have addressed and found that when I cut the chassis rails to length, the assembly now sits lower in the body.

As it was in the pic, the rear was far too high up in the body - I might not get the very low stance I was hoping for - but it will only be by 1 - 2 mm higher off the track.


Yes, wheels and tyres are what's holding this one up - I'm flipping back to Cooper #1 now and will bring it up to the same level of progress.

I find this easier than building only one model - it really doesn't take that much longer.... almost all my time so far on this project has been spent on decisions/options... and a bit of fiddling to set things up for soldering.


Thanks for following the thread - and you much appreciated input.




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Didn't want to play with the soldering iron today... so, went back to playing with Cooper #2.


Made up a temporary wooden body mount and set about getting some ideas about how the model would end up sitting..








I was a bit concerned with the motor pressing onto the body - used 5 layers of masking tape then went to get my measurements from chassis rail to track.






this is what is left of the inside of the body - I had to take more out to get the clearance around the motor.




Still didn't want to play with the soldering iron - inside this house has become very, very hot... so - went looking for wheels and axles to try to establish how the model would sit at the heights set... found some wheels almost within spec diameter and added a bit of tube to the front bracket... very happy with the outcome so far....


pix... not much more text...












Sorry for swamping the forum folk - I'll try and cut down .... it's harder for me to do this, than building a model....


Question - best option for mounting the body?.... It has been suggested to me to use white "builder's" plugs - epoxied to the body....

I am a bit concerned my mount location may be too far forward - and might yet have to solder another short piece of brass plate between the chassis rails.... and a body mount a bit further back....




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Ok folk - this little project is becoming obsessive - I left the flying field at lunchtime yesterday in perfect weather/company - to come home and do more on these models....

Today - more developments - another two parcels arrived.... all my spacers, axles, bushes and eyelets arrived... by courier.. then, the postie brought me a yellow package from Canada.... yippee - my tyres...... opened it up to find 5 BWA motors from D'Art - and I believed I'd be waiting for much longer.... now, if only for the last package to come in....


I have found a local re-seller for uninsulated ferules.... right in a neighboring suburb - Nunuwading. Whether they will let me purchase direct is not known yet.... but it might just save on shipping....


All wheel inserts finished - about an hour each.


I have worked out my front axle arrangement and believe it is going to be as friction free as anything yet employed.... thanks to Munter and Phil for your kind and valued contributions.


Bodywork continues.


I will post some pix shortly - but for now, this is probably enough to avoid annoying you with my dribble....




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Just a little bump along - work continues... but had to take a few steps backwards to sort some issues out.


Great as they are, I might just suggest anyone using brackets should check them accurately before assembling a chassis - saves a lot of grief later when things just won't line up.


Current state of build - two rolling chassis with motors/gears and wheels all running free and true.


There is a difference of 0.6 mm in wheelbase between the two chassis - built on the same plate, I can't explain why they were different - the rods used for locating axle positions and the posts to retain them were in identical position... I'm not unhappy with the end result, just can't account for the discrepancy.. and it's annoying me.


Waiting on Slot-It HRS plastic guides with screw fitting to set up guide height.

Waiting on Professor Motor silicone lead.


Should be able to run the chassis' once both these are added.


Pix soon.




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Ok, little bump along to catch up with proceedings.

I now have two powered chassis which run on the bench like a dream - the precious little bit of dressing I did to the pinons has really paid off. These gear-sets run ever so sweetly on the Slot-It 3/32" hardened steel axles I am using.

I am at the point of gluing and truing tyres. I have done a lot better with the front ones than the rears... I might have to address what's going on with the rears, but they are pretty much within what I want them to be... just a bit more "truing".

Ok question time - front guide.

I was going to use the Slot-It revision 2 guide with four grub screws, but it was suggested to me that this would cause issues with "corner marshalls" - I still don't know why, but I'm not really savvy with racing events and procedures yet....

I did take advice and order in the Slot-it universal HRS guide for plastic track - and this is causing grief.

I have had to change my bearing tube size - and can't find one which is a snug fit.....

Which sized tube do members use for these guides - the guide pin is too large for 5/32" OD brass tube - and too narrow for the next size up... I'm hoping there is something available which will prevent me having to dress down the pin and ream out the tube like I spent nearly two hours doing yesterday.... I have another 3 of these set-ups to complete.... if there's tubing available for this recommended guide - I'd sure like to know about it......

For the front axle assemblies - I've managed to get them running ever so free, yet with minimal run-out.

I used 1/8" brass tubing for the bearing - which was soldered to the front bracket.

Inside this, I fitted a "hollow" 3/32" Slot-It axle. On the inner hub faces I fitted a 3/32" 0.25 mm thick thrust washer then added the narrow little RD wheels (absolutely perfect, Steve). I then fitted another thrust washer outboard and used a Slot-It brass eyelet which was inserted into the hollow axle.

One of these eyelets was crushed slightly and a very small coating of Loctite ensures that it won't come out.

I will repeat this on the other end when I have completed the suspension detail...

Final trimming to length of the axle is yet to be determined - but at present, I'm within another 0.25 mm thrust washer .. which I might just add to the assembly.

The running of the wheels is very, very free - and there is ever so little wobble in the tracking of the front wheels - if I remove all of this the wheels will drag.. so, I'm of the opinion it better/more advantageous to run as is....

Once the guide issues are rectified - I can then place the model on a track and do some "testing".... so, folk - another great sequel to "Tolstoys W&P"... but one I hope someone might glean some info from....

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As promised.... and less words...


Cooper #2 has reached chassis track running stage - only now needing the leads to be attached.

The rear axle has been shimmed down to 0.1 mm on both sides of the crown - it runs in beautiful mesh with the pinion and within the rear bracket bushes.




The guide has now finally been fitted - a huge job to ream out the guide tube and sand down the guide post.





Three shims were used to set the guide height - all hand made from brass strip.

The guide sits with just the thickness of the braid between it and the building board - with all four tyres firmly on the board.




And, for those unbelievers that I was actually making up two of these great little cars.... here is Cooper #1 behind Cooper #2....




I'll now rest #2 for a spell whilst #1 catches up in the build process.. it's how I'm running these builds - they are "leap-frogging"... in that way, neither is the test dummy - and they should both come through the build process relatively equal...


Once #1 reaches #2 - it will be time to return to the bodies.... whilst I contemplate how the suspension is going to be fabricated and fitted....




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Nice work Rosco - I will just put my brackets, wheels, brass and wire in a box and send it your way :)


I have ordered a honeycomb solder block and plan to follow your thread and those of others to build some chassis myself




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