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Ben_M

Painting/building A Resin Body 101

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Earlier in the year I picked up a couple of older Toyota resin cast rally cars.

 

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They came with some great how-to instructions but there is one issue. As the cars came from the UK the suggested primer, paints and lacquer are all Halfords products witch I don't believe are available in Aus. As this is the first time I've done anything like this I was just wondering what the locals would recommend? We do have a small hobby shop here which may stock some stuff. The colours will be as in the pictures above, but the colours don't really bother me that much, its more the type of paint to be used.

 

Cheers.


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undercoat with Tamiya undercoat - white or grey depending on you top colour.

 

you can use auto colours from Auto store Holts is the brand I have used - or buy Tamiya or Testors colours from hobby shop

 

David

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do you sand between coats? and if so with what grade paper?

 

I am building a 1/24 mini and have under coated in with two coats of under coat but it doesn't look smooth

 

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My vote is for Tamiya primer. I use it on resin, plastic and white metal. Prime and sand to perfect the surface then prime again. I've colour coated over the top with all sorts of acrylic from lacquers to vinyl type to water based.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Thanks David & Embs, with the Tamiya paints, are the codes important? From what I can work out the acrylic's are best suited to resin which are the X & XF range. Is this right or does it not really mater once the primer is on?

 

Jason, my little helpful hints sheets says to apply thin/light coast of primer and rub down with the finest wet and dry (between applications). Might help your situation, plus Embs does it so it must be right :).

Edited by Ben_M

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I use the Tamiya spray primers and the TS13 clear (TS =Tamiya spray). TS, X & XF are all fine. Not sure that it really matters much after primer. As I said, I've used all sorts on top of the Tamiya primer.

 

The X(F) range you can thin with Windex to spray.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Don't get the polycarb Tamiya paint :)

 

Jason - if needed I rub down with 1200 and 2000 wet and dry - I don't know the rule but I use it wet and dry depending on what I plan to do - another coat of undercoat or if I am just taking some roughness off the surface before top coat... but I am know paint guru I am an impatient painter :) but light coats are always good as is waiting a while between coats :)

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undercoat with Tamiya undercoat - white or grey depending on you top colour.

 

you can use auto colours from Auto store Holts is the brand I have used - or buy Tamiya or Testors colours from hobby shop

 

David

 

Ben the best and hardest paint are auto touch up paints.I and leave over night, sand out with 600 paint and leave over night before sanding again with 1000 or finer wet,then flow coat. I then like to leave to shrink for a week before polishing,decals and clear coat.

But they must be used in a well ventilated area.

They dry out much faster than model paints, so suit my last minute builds.

Model acrylics can take a week or more to fully dry out, and continue to shrink dry for some weeks.

They seem dry on the surface and can be decaled etc.

There is a lot of info on paints and painting on the 1/24 model builders sites.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Jason, put the can in hot water for 20 seconds before spraying. It thins the paint and increases the pressure, giving a better finish.

 

Of course if you leave the can in hot water too long it may explode. I've never had this happen but it's always in the back of my mind when I do it. A can gun also helps with control.


Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

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Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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taking on board the suggestions I have now put two coats of colour on 24 hours apart and sanding with 1500 between. I am pretty happy with how it has come up. Paint is a little thick over some of the finer details but for a first attempt a model worthy paint job I am really happy. As a note I am using the export brand from supercheap mainly because I liked the particular colour red my local shop had

 

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Just wondering if I should glue the chrome parts on before or after I clear coat?

 

Sorry Ben not meaning to hijack your thread, looking forward to see how yours comes out.

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what you clear coating it with?

 

Find some junk plastic ( slot car box base will do) - paint it red and then clear coat it - and see what happens - some clear coats don't play nice with certain types of paint - would hate to see you nice paint job ruined by a 'hot' clear

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After a bit of a hiccup (Loosing the spray cans I brought :ph34r: ) I was finally able to hook into these today. Great drying weather today which I was able to do 3 undercoats. A bit of another sand and the the fun part, masking......

 

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Looking good, Ben - it's always great to get the first colour coat on when you have the body fully primed and sanded..... the reward for all your hard work shows up in colour.

 

frats,

Rosco

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