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wombat

Router Bits

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Or, you could make a plate with 2 x 1/8" pins (one either side of the cutter) mounted to the front of your router, then you can use an 'over the counter' router bit..

braid-router_zpsf4b5853d.jpg

 

:)

Edited by slotbaker

Steve K.

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Hi

Can anyone tell me where i can get a router bit for recessing copper braid?

cheers

 

What width of braid?

You need a 3/4" cutter for 1/4" braid otherwise you will have it lifting off in the corners.

Edited by SlotsNZ

Hoo Roo

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2 x australian ego champion

 

regards

Shane

 

 

Fulel racing in first track build --> https://youtu.be/nG1EyFkbJSs

 

 

 

My second track build --> 

raceday - https://youtu.be/8WXYQ528iKM

 

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Hi

Can anyone tell me where i can get a router bit for recessing copper braid?

cheers

 

What width of braid?

You need a 3/4" cutter for 1/4" braid otherwise you will have it lifting off in the corners.

 

You really only need an 18mm bit, as the braid is 6.25mm width.

 

6.25 + 6.25 + 3.2mm (slot width) = 15.7mm, so you have more than 1mm inside the braid edge to the edge of the slot.

it's neater that way, - a narrowest practical total width.

 

Slotbaker, the problem with those pin-plates is that the router bit is sitting off-centre on the inside of the turns, so the rebate is narrower on the outside and wider on the inside. the tighter the turn, and the wider spaced the pins, the more acute the issue.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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Slotbaker, the problem with those pin-plates is that the router bit is sitting off-centre on the inside of the turns, so the rebate is narrower on the outside and wider on the inside. the tighter the turn, and the wider spaced the pins, the more acute the issue.

Yep, agreed, on a 1/32 scale track with tight bends, it can be an issue.

It's not much of an issue on large curves. At least I've not had any problems.


Steve K.

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what i did, i routed my track with 1/8 cutter. then i saw the local engineer and asked nicely if he could drill a 1/8 hole into the end of a 19mm cutter. then pushed in a 1/8 drill blank and cut it off about 5 mm from the cutting face. then all you have to do it set your depth of your braid and the cutter will follow the slot.

 

the cutter is the same as what Gref posted

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Too close for 1/4 braid Phil.

You need minimum 1mm gap between braid edge and slot

Go with 18 or 19mm cutter for 1/4 braid.

Edited by Camber

Hoo Roo

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Too close for 1/4 braid Phil.

You need minimum 1mm gap between braid edge and slot

Go with 18 or 19mm cutter on 1/4 braid.

 

Double post

Edited by Camber

Hoo Roo

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Hi Phil,

 

Here is a pic of my lastest track with a 18mm routed rebate. This is the tightest and most often deslotted corner on my track and minor braid damage is clearly visible due to the guide wanting to lift the outside braid as the car comes out (inside braid is absolutely perfect condition). As Slotsnz points out the braid is 6.35mm, however in the real world this is very nominal and the braid will tend to flatten and widen....close to 7mm on tight corners (6.8mm on this corner and it is really not very tight). I will probably go with 3/4 (19mm) on my next?? track which is probably why slot car corner sell a 3/4 bit.

 

I cant explain how your track has survived without damage for so long, possibly because you only run light, shallow guide 1/32 scale cars whereas I run pretty much every style of car. I have seen quite a few near new tracks all over the country look very second hand due to this problem.

My first track was one of them.

 

 

15731224205_3a5b6f78da_c.jpg

 

- Cam

Edited by Camber

Hoo Roo

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Simple answer is that the braid is not holding down properly.

The braid needs to be laid in its natural state, neither stretched or compressed, that way it remains at 1/4 width.

My braid is layed the old fashioned way with contact adhesive.

 

 

 

  • Upvote 1

Phil

 

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Simple answer is that the braid is not holding down properly.

The braid needs to be laid in its natural state, neither stretched or compressed, that way it remains at 1/4 width.

My braid is layed the old fashioned way with contact adhesive.

 

Was about to write the same as Phil.

I do like having a 1mm gap to edge of braid - hence 18mm router bit, versus Phil with a 16mm, but as he has said, if the braid is laid in it's "natural state", just sort of dropped onto the track surface - not stretched - to narrow, nor caused to widen, it shouldn't get to 7mm wide.

 

A couple of other things worth pointing out in the technique.

Firstly, I lightly sand the edge off the outer edge of the rebate - just taking the "sharpness" off the rebate before painting the track, this prevents later "chipping" of the edge by cars, and is small enough that the perhaps 1mm? visible gap between the edge of the braid at track surface and the MDF itself isn't enough to cause any "bump" for cars.

Then, when using DS tape, the tape is laid, I lower the braid with one hand, while pressing it outwards using one finger so it is always tight against the outside edge of the rebate.That ensures it is away from the edge of the slot, so the braid is that consistent gap away from the edge of the slot all through the corner.

 

An extract below from a braiding tutorial I wrote when doing my current track.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In these pictures you can see me laying the tape, then pressing down firmly on the backing paper with the handle

of a small pair of scissors. You could also use a BIC lighter, or similar smooth, rounded item which won't cut into

the backing of the tape.

taping1.jpg

 

taping2.jpg

 

This is vital because the track-tape is a pressure-contact adhesive. If you don't press it hard, - it doesn't stick to

the MDF or paint. When you DO, it sticks hard enough that if you later lift the braid - the tape rips up the paint

and chips of MDF under it.

 

I use a combination of angle and pressure to ensure that the tape is laid against the outside edge of the "gains",

and about 1mm in from the edge of the main slot.

 

Then when laying the braid, I use a similar hand technique. First peeling back a metre or two of the tape backing,

then pulling the braid into place, hard against that outside edge of the gain. - Be sure to place the reel of braid

onto some cardboard or a soft towel so it doesn't mark the track surface!

 

In the first shot I am poking a tail of braid into a hole drilled through the track surface, where it will be connected

underneath the the power for the lane. Note that I have "offest" the two holes left from right, so that underneath

it is easier to wire up and avoid shorting out the two sides.

 

braiding1.jpg

 

In this second shot I am drawing it through the one hand into the correct position, and pressing it into place with

the thumb or forefinger of the other hand. After a while you can lay it at a shuffling walk pace, it's really quite easy.

 

braiding2.jpg

If it is SLIGHTLY in from the edge, you can hand press it outwards till it makes a snug fit against the Gains.

- DON'T lift it to move it unless absolutely necessary. I use firm finger pressure to press it down as a second step.

Some people use a small roller, I prefer the tactile feel of my fingers to ensure it is sitting flush with the main

track surface. Slight rises in the braid can usually be pressed down to flush with the track surface with a firm

push of the thumb, as the tape is 0.13mm thick and has a bit of give.

 

and DONE

 

braided3.jpg


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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Getting back to the original question, Wombat, if you ask Joez nicely, he might be able to make the right cutter for you and post it up there.


Stu

 

Old racers race harder

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