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rosco01

Slot-It Suspension Upgrade

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Hi folk, newbie here..... well, an onld fogey who's trying to learn new tricks....

 

I would like to pick the learned brains of those who have dabbled with upgrading/tuning Slot-it chassis/suspensions.

 

As a newcomer to this advanced mode of slot car development, I'm lost in a sea of availability - and wish to draw on the knowledge/experience of those who have traveled the path seeking more resolute understanding of tweaking these greatly advanced units from my days (60's) in the hobby.....

 

I now have three Slot-it GT 40's and in my last order, have now obtained two suspension upgrade kits - the universal spring suspension kit CH47b.

 

My outcome is to attain faster lap times, and smoother running.

 

I have downloaded numerous Slot-it docs from thier site - and am not a little perplexed in "how to" incorporate my new kits to the above cars....

 

I am a little concerned, that I might need the HRS(2) chassis to effect the suspension upgrades.

 

I call on those who are savvy with what is needed to advance my GT40's with the CH47b suspension upgrade kit - or, can enlighten me on the process of fitting the kit to my Slot-it models...

 

All answers much appreciated........and, although I spent hours today reading threads/posts - I couldn't find anything specific to my questons... apologies to the forum if I blatantly missed a thread relating to my issue....

 

frats,

Rosco

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The slot.it suspension systems (either Magnetic or Spring) really come into their own on plastic tracks - not much benefit on smooth routed tracks.....

 

It is a real challenge making the spring suspension system work effectively in the limited space of the GT40 rear end....

 

If you have the Evo 6 chassis / motorpod and are running on plastic track - there may be scope for using the spring suspension in the holes in front of the rear wheels (leave the 'normal' rear pod screws off the car) , and have just a bit of movement in the front pod screws - lateral movement between the pod and chassis can be controlled by careful application of package tape on the underside....


Cheers,

 

Tony.

 

There's only two questions:

 

1. What direction do you go

2. What's the Lap Record?

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thanks all for your response - much appreciated.

 

Yes, I do have plastic track - although I've just about doubled up on everything with Sport track, there is an awful lot of 1960's track I have kept..... and may add to a short term layout to increase trackage.....

Some of the older track is now well undulated - but still in relatively good condition... all of it is useable - and the suspension system should lend itself very nicely in coping with such a non-linear/level surface. The two Hump Back bridges are the yardstick for setting up my antiquated collection of old Scaley cars.....

 

I have two such suspension kits, and three MK1 EVO6 GT40's.... I guess that I'll try fitting the suspension kit to one - and just "play" with the others....

If it's a success - I might do another conversion.

 

Although Slot-It state "suites all motor mounts" - it isn't very clear on which chassis or models it will fit..... I guess they believe we'd get more enjoyment from perseverance - and self education....

 

Just as an aside - I noted when I opened my first Slot-it GT40 - the allen key for the front suspension was taped to the underside of the plastic mount.... but no hex screws....... the second one, Winners collection #9 - was likewise - but the little plastic bag was sliced across....

The third one, #8 - was in a sealed box... and in the little plastic bag were the allen key AND two hex grub screws...... anyone else found this paradox....?

All cars were purchased new.

 

thanks again - let you know how I'm going with the suspension upgrade.... or decide to can the idea (pun intended).

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Ok, folk - easy, peasy.....

You end up with enough spare parts to upgrade another type of chassis.... the parts supplied are for either.

What you don't get is an additional pair of springs - or M2 grub screws.

 

The etched parts are best cut out with a Dremel and cutting wheel (ask me about my new pair of flush cut snippers - now with only one pointed tip).

 

Be careful with the grub/set screws provided - the will gouge out by the M2 allen key.... (ask me about that too!).

 

The entire package (long brass screws) fits neatly and snugly into the GT40.... the only concern I have is that so far, I have set the springs to maximum softness and the limiting screws to bring the chassis base almost to track level at full deflection.

 

Both of these will progressively be tweaked and tightened up as experience dictates...

 

So, yes - the CH47b suspension kit does fit the EV0-6 chassis as supplied for the GT40.

 

My latest one did not come with intermediate pod screws.... only the four front/back.

You have to loosen the front ones - as posted above, by about 1/4 turn and yes, there is about 1mm lateral sway as the pod moves across.

I am looking at fitting some intermediate posts which will limit this lateral sway - yet not affect tuning of the suspension - it's the rear where the play is, and it amounts due to the brass screw being a very loose fit inside the etched plate for the spring base......I won't play at that end - but I believe some form of sliding post fitted to intermediate chassis/pod hole will all but remove this movement.

 

One thing I did note - with my "reach" grub screws set to about 2mm play - is that the model's tyres "just" sit inside the wheelarches of the body.... so - I guess after some disgruntled rubbing - I'll be restricting the reach of the grub screws in very short time... possibly the first lap!

 

Oh - and almost forgot - those plastic cups - nup! don't use them.... I did to start with - but found they did not press onto the grub screws squarely using a modeler's vice..... so ditched them.... after spending some time carefully sanding them down to perfectly round.... then to have to use a bent nose pair of fine pliers to remove them..... instructions suggest they are not needed... guess it was an early design plan - and they continued to pour the sprue mold as is...... parts might come in handy for something else.....

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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I run the suspension at rear of pod, with the springs pulled down with as much tension as I can exact from the standard "soft" springs, or use the stiffer aftermarket springs CH55b

 

I limit travel to no more than 1mm or the bum of the car may hit the track.

 

But the effect of the spring versus free-floating is useful. If I'd had time to tune it, I'd have sprung my Group 5 proxy entry, I'm pretty sure I ran short of time to put it in..... will look tomorrow....

 

One thing with a well set spring suspension (better than the magnetic suspension in my opinion), is that it tends to eliminate axle tramp out of corners sometimes caused by things outside of the car - eg fluctuating track surface that loads and unloads the pod, wheels tracking across the braid if the car slides and so on.


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Ok folk, run report.

Finally set the track up (Scaley Sport) at around 14:00 yesterday and ran up until 23:30 last night.

Track is about 30m in length (guess - maybe longer - see if I can add a pic) later (might need to edit).

 

I completed running in the previous Slot-It GT40 (green #40) for a good hour with bursts of full power at 12v.

This is the first time I've had a switch-mode variable voltage PS - and I believe it is way superiour to the old Triang P2 unit in which I added diodes.

 

I got used to the non-suspension car first - then cut the voltage back to 10v and put the new model on the track.

As mentioned, I set the suspension up so that at full deflection, there is only about 1mm of clearance from the chassis to the track.

 

From the get-go - this car is brilliant.... but, for the first 15 minutes or so - it had a binding noise on right handers.

I now know this to be the spur gear against the chassis - as there is lateral movement across the axle.

This noise has all but gone now after 2 hours of running in last night - and there is hardly any sign of where the spur gear has buffed up/ground back the chassis.

I would suggest that something be done to make the pod more rigid in linear movement - and as mentioned.. I will endeavor to make some form of sliding post on the intermediat pod mount holes.....

 

Although the rear tyres on full deflection go well up into and hard agains the wheel-arch body - there wasn't one sign of them wearing - nor any marks on the body.

 

For the last 10 minutes of running in - I had the supply set to 12v and was giving it bursts along the long straights (4 of them, all of about 12 "D" lengths).

The car did not seem to bind up at all under full power.

There is quite some softness in the suspension - and it simply eats the track, compared to the non-suspension green model (identical chassis and motor, but without the suspension upgrade).

 

It is certainly a lot quieter - although both these Slot-It cars are much quieter than the Carrera Cobra's and Cheetah's I have - which are also quieter then my Scaley collection.... especially the GT40 Mk 2 I have (#2 USA limited production) which for some reason unknown to me is very noisey..... quiet without the body - but noisy with it....

 

So, for an initial report - I believe the upgrade is well worth my effort - and am now looking at purchasing another Slot-It GT40 Mk 1 to fit the other suspension kit I have.

 

I am hesitant to do so to the number 40 car - as this is now well run-in and runs ever so sweetly.... meddling with that one now is probably not going to either bring the same great results - or do the model any justice for a long lifetime of non-problematic running... which I believe these cars are capable of.

 

frats,

Rosco

 

ps. - will try and get a few shots off with my box brownie and add to this post...

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Ok promised pic (I hope - courtesy Photobucket).

 

My track for the past couple of days.... all new Sport track... didn't manage to get any more laid out before I called it stumps at 14:00.....

None of the other "half" of Classic track is in this....

 

ScaleySept001_zps2982d806.jpg

 

ScaleySept002_zps3c1796c2.jpg

 

And - the new GT 40 - in "relaxed" suspension - and under the "pump"....

 

GT408up_zps07638302.jpg

 

GT408down_zps6ba8b8e3.jpg

 

frats,

Rosco

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Ok folk - by the look of it, we've got a few people interested in following this thread... so, I'll keep posting what I'm finding as I work through fitting these to my Slot-It fleet... which is so far - 5 GT40's.... with the 5th yet to come.

 

Ok - I know a bit more - and have managed to effect some mods which make the installation a bit better.

 

Up until tonight, I'd only done the upgrade to the Yellow Mk1... currently available on special at AR for $55.... hence my now getting a second one.

 

Fitting the kit to that model (upgraded, I believe) was an awful lot easier than the one I hit tonight.... the Alan Mann one... which, I believe is the superceded model - it's a bit of a problem child for this suspension upgrade.

 

Before I started messing around with fitting the kit to this one - I studied where I could do something about the lateral slop the kit produces - and came up with an acceptable and well worth the effort modification....

 

On the end bell side of the chassis where the motor pod fits into - there is a vertical post... it tapers back slightly - but can be used to stick a shim onto it.

I used two thicknesses of 20 thou styrene card - 5 mm high and 4mm wide..... I used superglue to laminate them - or you could simply use one piece of 40 thou.....

 

I used some Isopryl alcohol to clean up the chassis post - then a jeweller's file to key up the surface.

I used cyano-acrylate to stick the laminated styrene card to this post and let it set whilst I had a coffee.

When I came back to it - it made a sound bond...

I then used the jeweller's file again - but kept the cuts vertical and square to the chassis.... thus removing the taper which the card had followed when stuck to this post.

 

I then attacked the motor mount... there is quite a bit of rubbish on the side of that where it rubs against the chassis post.

 

Finally, I used one of my favorite home made tools.... an icy pole stick - with a superglued band of 400 wet and dry at one end and some 800 at the other.

 

Rubbing this and keeping it square whilst wet achieved an almost unmarked satin finish....

It was only a matter or working the card down until there was negligible clearance as the pod moved up and down.

On the other side - it's the gearwheel which prevents the pod from moving across..... I used the wet and dry stick to polish this up as well - and on the mating surface of the pod....

 

The end result is a free moving sprung pod mount with next to no lateral slop.....

 

Now - next issue...... this early version of the GT40 has a fundamental flaw in design.... I don't know what it is exactly - but know I didn't have the problem on the revised version....

 

The terminal side of the top of the motor strikes the underside of the induction manifold.... and prevents that side from moving up more than probably 5 thou when compressed... the other side is capable of about 3 mm... (sorry for the different measurements... but I don't know what 5 thou is in mm's...... old school - you understand)....

 

I first believed it was the capacitor on top of the motor - then unsoldered it and shifted it across over the motor body.... didn't help.

Next, I soldered the leads to the underside of the terminals - didn't help....

 

I then cut some styrene card spacers and fitted them between the chassis and body.... looked crap - but it did give me the 1 - 2 mm throw I wanted in suspension....

 

So, out with the Dremel and a fine sanding disc and proceeded to take "layers" off the induction manifold and some of the cowl - where the motor terminals are....

 

With every run and trial - the suspension was gaining travel.... when I had what I wanted - I stopped..... put it all back together and adjusted the stops and tension.

 

That model is now every bit as good as the first one....

 

I will compare both models tomorrow and take a peek at how Slot-It have modified the second revision..... there has to be something that's been changed.

The induction manifold and cowl were firmly placed up into the body - so, I don't believe it was a case of a sloppy assembly......

 

I took some pix as I worked through this one.... and hopefully will post them up tomorrow sometime....

 

I have an unassembled white MK 1 kit to put together.... and I expect this is also the first run of Slot-It GT40 Mk 1's..... so, I'll most likely be able to change some of the parts as I assemble it....

 

hope some of this helps....

 

Oh - and by the way - the motor mount on this earlier version allows a lot of turn of the motor in the mount.... I expect a dollop of hot glue will all but stop that....

 

And - finally..... perhaps.... i did a test run of the model at around 3 volts for some time.... I had the tyres pretty much set on the ally hubs... but - when I took it up to 9 volts.... that horrible vibration kicked in (and I note the same "noise" comes when you run down the straight and give a model buckets full).... it's a rattling noise sort of.... all my cars have always done it..... so, can someone kindly inform me that this is why many of you folk glue your tyres to the hubs....? I'm guessing so... and, after gluing them - does that horrible noise stop....?

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Hi Rosco01 well my friend it is always best to glue your tyres onto the hubs, and the most important thing after you have done that is to true them on a tyre razor or equipment like that , why!!! as most tyres aren't round and gives you all sorts of chatter especially on lift of and cornering, do that and you will be pleasantly surprised at the difference. :)

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Thanks Peter.... yes, I'll now go ahead and try to glue one model's tyres down.... I'm intending to use contact cement - but only as a single application... and try to get the tyre/hub as close as possible.

The tyres Slot-It fit to these cars have a lovely tread pattern - I'd like to try and keep that if possible.

 

I am very much hoping that glueing the tyres to the hubs will remove all that horrible vibration noise you hear when you give full voltage to the motor... all mine really sound as if they are stressing when I take long runs down straights at full tilt....... it's possibly the tyres throwing out from the hubs....

 

this seems to happen from around 10 volts onwards..... everything is quiet below that..

 

I do have a switch mode Powertech 16v power supply... analogue using home wound and much larger (cross shaped and wound with flat toaster wire - might do a thread on that one day)... which gets me up around the 60 ohms.... the cross shape board affords ventilation all around the wire - and toaster ribbon is supposed to get red hot, right.....?

 

The track I am now using is all new Sport track... it is layed down and packed up after every session (from hours to a couple of days).

 

I clean the rails with Inox MX3 and store it back in its original packaging.. then in white plastic boxes and stacked away....

 

My old track dates back to the early 60's.. and probably stopped "growing" in around 1985/6.... the latter half of this is in very good condition.. I love the hump back bridges... but, some of the models don't.... and the g'kids have a lot of trouble understanding that these become "launch" platforms unless they back off down the straights.......

 

Let you know how I go with glueing some tyres.... so, this tyre razor - expensive?... is there any chance that it will only remove the slightest out of round peaks on the tyres.. I do like the tread pattern.. but, I'm guessing you'll probably comment...."do you want to look a the model - or run it".. and I believe we both know the answer to that.

I believe contact cement affords removal and cleaning of the tyre/hub if something goes belly up.. plus - it also affords a bit of "tweaking" time to get the tyres to sit properly before the stuff goes off......

 

I'm further guessing that only a smear is needed ...... possibly on the hubs then prise the tyres on...... that's my guess.

 

thanks Peter - much appreciated.

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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For running on Scalextric Sport track you should treat yourself to some MJK's.

Higher grip than the standard slot it tyres, and much easier to true than the extra soft slot.it tyres.

 

I use contact adhesive on my tyres, and put the tyre on the rim whilst the glue is very fresh, and then let them sit overnight to set.

 

Tyre truer's start at about $250...

The Tire Razor (which I also have) is very good, and also allow you to true plastic press fit rims that are not easily removed from their axle.

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Thanks S-R (again).

No - can't justify a $250 outlay... but might chase up a tyre razor if it will get close.

 

Yes - I've fitted MJK's to many of my Scaley cars - and they are just magnets to the plastic track.... tend to get a bit grubby - but a dose of soapy water applied with a cotton bud and dried off brings them back to the original very "sticky" state..... might look to getting some to fit to the rear of one of these GT40's.... 15.8 x 8.2 - there has to be some MJK which will be a perfect fit for those ally hubs..... anyone know of it?... just to lazy to work my way through the copious MJK entries.. and am hoping someone has jotted it down.

 

I've read somewhere in this forum about using WD40 ..... no idea why... maybe it cleans this type of tyre and makes is even more grippy.....

 

Kevin at AR helped me get the MJK's for all the models I've replaced tyres on.... it made the MRRC FW07 into an absolute rocket... but nowhere near as fast as the GT40's....

 

I've also ordered a 25k Slot-It motor for the unbuilt GT40 Slot-It kit I'm going to build up.... it will most likely have all the goodie bits on it.. and I'm hoping will be a very quick car.

 

By the way - I remove all magnets..... I do like the option to drift.. and also believe it stresses motors a bit less....again, old school....

 

So, S-R - your thoughts on any particular tyre razor - and is it a realistically viable cheap option to true tyres....?

 

frats,

Rosco

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The "Tire Razor" is the cheapest option for ready made truers...

The owner is a great guy to deal with too which is a real plus...

 

That said, there are plenty of home made designs that will work quite well.

Here's a pic of Wobble's one...

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17433-your-slot-car-workbench-post-a-pic/page__view__findpost__p__223978

DSCF4222_zpsa5b38a09.jpg

 

As for MJK's for the GT-40 I believe that the ProSlot 19x10's are the ones to go for...

 

PS. Never use WD-40 or CRC or equivilant on MJK's... It will disolve them...

WD-40 is used on rubber tyres to soften the rubber compound.

 

As for cleaning any tyre, I use a dish washing sponge with water and a VERY small ammount of dish washing liquid.

Put the sponge on the track, rear tyres on the sponge, guide in the slot and pull the trigger to clean the tyres...

The burnout after that is very fun... First lap will be a little slippery, but then it will absolutely fly for about 10 laps or so before settling down to it's normal race pace.

This seems to work for any tyre too...

 

The other option commonly used for cleaning tyres is using the sticky side of packing tape...

You would be supprised just how well it works...

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thanks again, S-R - yes, looking for some way to connect with the Tire Razor bloke.... I know he's here in Victoria... maybe even Melbourne somewhere... never know - might even be in the same street.....

 

Do you have a link for him?

 

I know Ember has one of these units and apparently they work great.... last I saw - they were around the $150 mark..... just have to wait until I get a link to him....

 

Ok - WD40 is definitely out... for the MJK's. Thanks for the reference to the GT40 tyre size... next order - I might bang in a few....

 

One further question - before I finally get to work on the old girl.... and post up some pix of the suspension upgrade (still developing - more grinding away up until lunch time).... what do you use to glue your tyres to the hubs.... mine are definitely "loose"... I believed they were bedded in quite well - but no, they're loose enough to shift around under load... and at great rpms...

 

frats,

Rosco

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I use liberally applied contact adheisive (i.e. Shellys Kwik Grip) to hold my tyres on the rims.

This allows me to remove them at a later date if I need to...

 

Tire Razor are an american company...

https://www.facebook.com/TireRazor?ref=br_rs

From Memory the Razor it $150us + $30us shipping...

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Hello again Rosco. If you like the GT40 tyres why not just run them. In time they will become slicks and grip will improve. The standard Slot.It tyre now is the C1 and they love a drop of 3in1 oil rubbed into them. On a track that I run on my oil treated tyres offer similar performance to NSR Ultragrips and maybe it's just the track but it is a vast improvement on stock Slot.It tyres.

 

SR is dead right about MJK's too, and by the way , good pic there. What I use for cleaning tyres is a very slightly dampened dish wash sponge, the ones that are about 150 x 200 x 12mm thick, and just sit it on the track and put the guide in the slot and rest the rear tyres lightly on the sponge and pull the trigger.

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Ok second GT40 suspension upgrade finally completed... this one was huge compared to the first one... a little wiser - and the unpainted kit (which is probably the earlier version as mentioned) won't take so long to do.... and, I'll be just a bit more careful now knowing how thin that cowl and manifold intake becomes.

 

Just waiting for Photobucket to upload... so patience folk - think there's 8 pix in this...brb

 

Ok, as mentioned - this time I set out to remove the lateral slop in the motor pod... so, here you can see a few pix of how I added styrene card shims and filed them back..

 

GT4024002_zps7cabcafe.jpg

 

GT4024001_zpsd5210352.jpg

 

In these ones, you can see how I very carefully shaved down the motor mount and pod side - so that it would freely slide/slip up and down on the new "rubbing block".

 

GT4024003_zps720eb138.jpg

 

GT4024004_zps48763b8e.jpg

 

The body issue was next... along with the motor leads and capacitor.... the body was a series of relentless cuts and trial fits, I used a Dremel with a very fine/flexible paper sanding disc... and just "unlayered" very thin runs at a time.... each time re-fitting the chassis until I got the clearance I wanted....

 

GT4024005_zpsf4a821db.jpg

 

I spread a thin layer of cyano-acrylate over what was left to stiffen/harden it.... not pretty - and this will be addressed in the next model.. there's simply an awful lot of material removed here - but, with the first model I upgraded - none of this area was an issue....

 

The motor wiring was afforded all the relief I could add.... it was this one area where the terminals/leads and capacitor sat on the end bell which was later found to be the main issue..... first time up - I removed material from the wrong side... and hence the pic shows both sides and the central part being made flush....

You really only need to do the end bell area to gain clearance.

 

You'll also note that in this model - the motor was very loose... so - hot glue.. and the Dremel came out again to clean it up (a bit, anyway).

 

GT4024006_zpsf5bdc6d4.jpg

 

Final two pix are of it at rest siting with springs unloaded - and second one under the 2 mm or so travel that I have set..... this was also the amount of travel I set in the first attempt in the above post (yellow GT40).

 

GT4024008_zps64ac4c97.jpg

 

GT4024007_zps291e582a.jpg

 

I know it's not much of a difference - but if you look at the thin blue tyre line.. you'll see the drop....

 

In this model (first time) I also fitted the optional bronze bearings and 4 grub screws into the chassis front axle assembly.... removing the plastic stopper...

 

It is now possible to set both ends of the model.... I left a poofteenth of a gap between the grub scews on both sides of the front suspension... and yes, the front plastic wheels came off quite freely with a gentle push and twist... and went back on just as easily.

I left only a small amount of lateral sway between the hubs... hoping it's enough to prevent binding when cornering....

 

I believe I got the stance just about right..... the front wheels "just" touch the track with the braid fully flattened on the guide.....

 

Sorry for the long wait.... it was indeed a long and protracted project....

 

So, until I do the next one.... between the two different versions of this model - yes, I'd recommend the upgrade to the later version - maybe not for the earlier one....

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Tyre razor is the one I have Rosco01 and does the job very well , use MJK,s on all my slot it and NSR cars here on all plastic tracks find they are very good and are pretty round when you get them, as against Slot it and especially NSR tyres, now they need a lot of grinding I have found as against the MJK's which don't , also the MJK's don't balloon like the slot it, when I came back to racing and ran non glued tyres the Slot it would come of the hub occasionally being pushed through bends , like all of this sort of thing you pick it up as you go but you will find plenty of good advice on the forum to help you along. Using suspension you will find all these things matter and you need to get all these things right to get a nice flowing car , I don't use tyre treatment, goop,s e.t.c and find the sticky tape is fine for removing foreign bodies from tyres , again MJK's don't suffer to much with this. :)

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Thanks Peter,

I've sent an email to the Tire Razor manufacturer SLIJon... hoping he'll get back to me in a short while.

 

Yes, I've also found the MJK tyres I have fitted to some of my models seem to hang on a lot better than the OEM supplied ones.

 

I only run Sport track - and might need to add a bit of my old Classic..... I expect it is on that where suspension might play a larger role.... the cars with MJK tyres certainly run well on new Scaley track... and also that which has been looked after with a bit of respect.

 

Thanks again,

much appreciated...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Jon got back to me today.... and can supply me with the Tyre Razor, a spare pack of belts, and a tyre buddy, plus another sanding block.

I've just asked him about the Lathe as well..... hopefully, I might have it all in a week or two....from the States to Oz.

 

Ok - moving right along... more bad news...on this suspension upgrade....

 

I set about fitting this suspension to my final running model today - this was the second edition #40 (green car) - (still have two more units to come and one RTR and the one unassembled car not yet touched)...

 

It is the revised edition motor pod and chassis... I spent a good time comparing them both and there are a few differences... the extra pod mount holes for starters.

 

I also found that in the later (revised) model - there isn't one of those rubbing block posts on the chassis I used on the first one... but instead a hole through the chassis and pod for the extra two mounts....

 

On the earlier version - the pinion is fitted to the end bell side of the motor.... but the motor is mounted reversed so that the pinion is still on the same side....

 

I fitted the suspension to the second series - and bummer! - it also fouls on the intake manifold and cowl like the #24 (red - first series) one I did two days back... so - no, folk - you still have to grind away with a Dremel if you want more than 1mm of suspension travel on the end bell side... bummer, Slot It - bummer.....

I don't know why the yellow one (second series) did not have any issue... I still can't find any reason it doesn't rub.... it appears to sit just as far up into the body as all the others.. the intake manifold and cowl are the same size... the motor has the pinion on the can side.... and the end bell side gives me the 2mm I have predicted to allow the tyres to clear the inside of the wheel-arches...... jury is still out folk.....

 

I've also fitted the spherical bushes to the front axle on this final car... one of the front axle posts on all these GT40 chasssis has been a very tight fit to fit a bush into.... the other one has been fine - perhaps it's a tooling error....

 

And - I don't know why - but you can gain a bit of relief simply by reversing the bush in the slot - but it still binds.

 

The grub screw does not have much meat to bite into when you use it to push the bush down in the slot....

The other grub screws (M2 x 6mm) are fine for mounting from under the axle.

 

The front axle certainly spins a lot free'er than before... with the axle aligned through both the bushes...and a smear of Inox.

 

For those who have/are getting/thinking about the GT40 MK1 white un-assembled kit - it's the first edition... found that out tonight when I opened mine up....

I would have hoped that Slot-It might have used the upgraded version in the current the white kit... but mine is definitely the four post/rubbing block version with pinion on end-bell side.

 

Now - I did read a bit some time back on here about straightening chassis - and all of mine need it.... i found this out tonight, by accident....

 

I don't have a set-up plate (yet) but found with equal distances in the wheel arches - there is a gap from one wheel to the flat piece of material I used... and it varies from model to model....

 

I'm going to have to do the magnet/boiling water/leave overnight to cool trick on all these chassis to straighten them, I'm afraid.. then I'm going to need to set up all the travels ......AGAIN.

 

I've got them set using the grubs so that all wheels are in the same plane..... but the gaps in the wheel-arches are all over the place.

 

So, I guess what I'm saying is that there is probably not one of the GT40's ex factory which has a square/flat chassis.... and sadly, if you want to fit this suspension upgrade - you're going to have to grind some of that manifold and cowl away to get more than about 1mm travel on the end bell side...

 

 

More to come on this, folk.... I'm not done yet...

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Thanks again, Peter - much appreciated.

I have MJK's fitted to some old Scaley cars - and they are now exceptionally quick along with sticking to the track at speed like they never done in their lives before.

 

My work thus far with gluing tyres (Slot-It so far) has not been rewarding.

I tried the "wet" method first... water based contact glue (smells like "No More Gaps" by Selley's... probably is to a lesser extent) with dismal results.... they lifted in free air at around 10v.... this being the "ballooning" you post.... I expect..

 

Ok too late to post this up last night - and want to share with those following the thread.... suspension upgrade (continued).

 

Yes, when I fitted the upgrade to the first model - it did make an awful lot of difference.. and I believed I had it set quite well......

Then I read about twisted chassis - and decided to investigate.... and found all of my four thus far are "twisted"... and twisted in exactly the same way (read cause later)... I copied the Slot-It :"how to straighten a chassis" guide and set about getting all bits of equipment needed to "fix" my chassis'.....

 

After straightening the first one - I also did the "tuning an old motor dunking/cleaning/drying" trick and last night was in a position to re-assemble my first model with a "straightened" chassis.... this one also being one of those where I had to grind much away from the manifold and cowl.....

 

I set myself up with the board - checked the chassis again on the steel plate - then transferred everything to the set-up board.... all set to go.

 

Having noted and heeded advice to keep things "loose" I fitted everything back in.

Before I went to add the suspension or guide - I loosely positioned everything in the chassis (front axle/wheels, rear axle wheels and pod) and sat it on the set up plate.... all good... all square... each wheel sitting nicely on its own feet - and the chassis equidistant all around..

 

I then removed the pod and fitted the motor (by golly, those Slot-It motors take some doing.. I don't know how they simply don't break the pod as you prise and force the motor back into its cradle) then placed it back into the chassis loosely with just the two front screws fitted loosely.

 

Next, I set about fitting the suspension again.. and it all went in very well... gears and motor pinon meshing perfectly.

 

I fitted the guide and then sat it all down on the plate with the guide in its slot..... kaboom!.... front right wheel now sitting at least 2mm high, pressing down on the rear suspension either left side or right side (but more the right) saw the front right wheel come up... and the left one almost stay put....

 

I checked the chassis again and found it had some of the twist back in it... the right front corner up....

 

I tried adjusting the rear suspension tension and travel - and it made not one jot of difference to fixing the front right wheel issue...

 

so, pulled out the pod again - and checked the chassis..... perfect....

 

I re-fitted the pod - with only a couple of turns of the front mount screws and found the front right corner of the pod sitting "that" 2mm high.... how?...

 

I stripped the next model and found the pod doing exactly the same thing.. so, for some time (getting tired by now) I'd come to the false conclusion that this had something to do with the 0.5mm offset for the axle and pinion.... after a much needed coffee... and a lot of groaning from the loungeroom about my disatisfaction... I took "5" to have a bit of a think...... and bazingo - it dawned on me that the offset had nothing to do with that out of aligned pod... but, more likely was causing the chassis to get drawn back into twisted by screwing it down (even though I believed I had left a lot of "slack" in tightening both front screws).

 

So - pod back in, suspension back in.. and left the two pod screws hanging by no more than a couple of threads....

 

Put it all on the set-up plate again - and bazingo again.... chassis square - and all wheels nicely in the same plane... but - the pod has a gap of 2mm under its front right mount... the left front sitting on the chassis....

 

So, by now I'm pretty happy (but not impressed).... I believe I've found the issue for these chassis all being bent... and so far - every pod I've pulled out is bent exactly the same way... so, I'm thinking it's either a design "standard" or a design flaw... decisions, decisions..

 

I'd really like anyone following this who has established that thier pod is also causing the chassis to bend to post ..... for, I'm about to "dunk" the pod on the metal plate/magnet procedure to straighten one out to try..... it's a good 2mm...

 

I don't expect this might be happening to those without the suspension upgrade... because - if it's an EVO6.. it will have the six pod mounting screws - don't know if that straightens the chassis/pod out when tightened down (doubt it - because the bend must be transferred to the chassis, surely?).

 

I then assembled the entire chassis with the front pod mount screws loose... and that 2mm "high" clearance between the front right and the chassis mount.

 

Put the model on the set-up plate - and eureka!...... the chassis sits perfectly square and level - the suspension works a treat and both front wheels lift independently when the opposite rear is pressed down....

 

So - happy with this (now well past mid-night) - I bring the body down for a loose fit.... and install it.

Place the model on the set-up plate and note that everything is sweet.... except that you can see the front right part of the pod up in the air by that 2mm....

 

I turn the model over on it's back (remembering folk - that this is the first model I have done the clean and dunk process to the motor)... and hook up some leads to the guide braids.....

 

At three volts - it's all sweet.... maybe a little more noise in the body than previous - but I expect this is probably down to the looseness of all the mounts...

 

I test the suspension and kaboom..... gearwheel now grinding on something in the body.....

Previously, I had noted the gearwheel rubs along side the chassis when the rear left was depressed - but I'd fixed all that....

 

I now pull off the body and go to look for wear..... it is definitely gear wheel teeth hitting something - but I can't find any marks....

 

I put some more Parma grease on the teeth of the gear and smooth it down... re-fit the body, depress the left suspension and add some volts...... much quieter - but eventually the noise gets louder... I keep it to 3 volts to avoid "throwing" grease.... I want to see what is being "coated"...

 

Disassemble it - and find, take note of this one folk - you'll need to get your Dremel out again with the suspension upgrade to a GT40.... it's striking the frame of the rear radiator plates.... in the front left corner.... so, I carefully "wipe" away some of the plastic where the gear wheel could reach to the point of just having enough on it to hold that corner together (later will build it up with cyano-acrylate and baking soda) then dry off the grease on everything and put it back together...

 

Sit it on a soft cloth on its roof and fire it up again.... no noise! silencio!... done... but, the tyres do grab inside the wheel arches when fully depressed either side... not when depressed together - but obviously will when cornering hard...

 

I can take them down when my tyre razor arrives... I don't want to grind out any body.... or I can simply limit the amount of suspension.... I have probably nearly 2mm travel at present... maybe way too much... but if I come back to 1mm - that tyre rub will probably disappear....

 

So, in closing off this thread for another spell.... can anyone see/read anything out of the ordinary - or something I either am or are not doing to set this model up with suspension....

 

Yes, I totally agree before anyone replies - suspension in this model is a very demanding procedure to follow through....

 

The chances of me getting the only 4 Slot-It GT40 models with both a bend chassis AND pod mount... are unrealistic....

 

So, tonight - I'll straighten the first pod - then tomorrow re-fit it .... hopefully, the chassis will stay straight and the model will sit on the set-up plate square - with equal distances/gaps between all screws...

 

frats,

Rosco

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G'day Rosco, hope you don't mind me adding my thoughts here.

 

Just regarding the tyre cleaning method, I have been shown to use a clothes lint roller, you know, the sticky ones that you can peel off, only a couple bucks from Coles supermarket. I roll it over my track before I start, peel a fresh layer and roll each cars tyres before it goes on. Works fantastic on my primer mdf track. I was shown by a good mate who uses that method on his huge digital scalextric setup, no mags. I was really surprised at how good it works! Apparently the RC guys have been using this method for a while. It would be the same as the sticky tape method mentioned earlier but probably much more easy to use.

 

I love the look of the Allan Man car, nice model.

 

Cheers

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Thanks Luvhistorics... thankyou for the tip on the clothes lint roller..... we have one here... it gets used a lot - but is going to get used even more now.....

 

Yes, the Alan Mann car looks great - but it's a series 1 Slot-It... doesn't have the six screw pod (doesn't matter anyway if you are adding the suspension upgrade - and the pinion is on the can end of the motor.... the series 1 GT40's I have are all can end pinion, the series 2 (six screw hole) are bell end.

 

I did a lot more work to the series 2 #40 (green) last night - four hours in fact... shaved down so much from the manifold cowl covering that you can see through it with a light behind it.... also pulled out the manifold and fabricated a blanking piece out of styrene card... then mounted the manifold... painted it all black and c/a & baking soda it back in... painted it black again. Also ground out more of the radiator/exhaust frame and pushed them down onto the body.... there will now be oodles of clearance for the motor/pod/crownwheel to clear the body.

 

I am about to de-solder one end of the capacitor on top of the motor..... these motors, I've found - come in various stages of soldering... some leave huge blobs of solder up high... some with barely any insulation from the can of the motor... and some of the capacitors simply have been plonked on and soldered...

 

If you are going to do this upgrade folk - you need to get that capacitor down alongside and flush with the black insulator between the brush holders..... the motor WILL ride up that high with more than 1mm travel in the suspension...

 

Ok, little bit more.... the pod.... just out of the water... did two of them.

 

And yes - the 2mm twist in the front right hand mount hole leg is now gone... as is the 1mm one in the other one I put into the hot tub last night...

 

My final Slot-It GT40 Mk1 arrived today - another #8 (yellow) - second series... this will be the 6th of these.... three of each series.

 

I have two others, both scaley... the #2 Mk 2 and the #15 Mk1... the #2 car is a bit of a dog.... I'm keen to get into that and find out why it doesn't like going around right hand curves..... later, these Slot-It 40's are a very nice unit... and, I'm hoping - when I get these little "bugs" of them - they'll be a dream to drive....

 

They were great without suspension - but when I did my first one - it was even better.... hence, why the rest of the six are getting the treatment.....

 

Not sure I'll touch the Gulf Winners one yet..... I have yet to take a close look at that - might never run it...... although it is beckoning me to....

 

Heard back from Jon - expecting my Razor tomorrow or some time next week... it's been in "transit" for some time.... lucky dip as to how long it sits in customs over here.....

 

Back with more later.... keen to try fitting one of these pods and setting a model up on the block..... I'm now hoping it will sit very nicely with equal distances all around...

 

frats,

Rosco

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