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Ember

So You Want To Build A Lotus 24

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Hahahaa... Everytime I post a picture of that on FB I get a bunch of people asking that. I got that one from a jeweller's supply store in Perth. Cot me $15 + postage. You might find something cheaper if you dig a bit deeper, but that was the best price I found in Aus. The Americans (who put me onto it) are lucky enough to get them for USD 6 from Amazon.

 

Google "Jeweller's ceramic honeycomb soldering plate" or something similar. I believe the block itself is made for use in gas heaters. So, if you have a friendly gas fitter you might be able score something from him.

 

The pins I use on mine are just some brads that I had lying aroud. They fit like a glove.

 

I do have a couple of dedicated chassis jigs that I was given. But I found both of them limiting with regard to size. I have a bit of a thing for small cars at the moment.

 

My first attempt at using it, and making my own motor mount plate looks ok, but is yet to be completed. Got to drill some mounting holes in some side pans and add them on.

01_giulietta_zpsa8813194.jpg

 

The big bonus for me is that it gives me the freedom to solder other small things like luggage racks or stair rails.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I got side tracked with a few proxy cars that needed painting and building but I think I can safely move back to the Lotus now.

 

An awful lot of frustration trying to bend piano wire into matching shapes.

bending_issues_zps36c12aa6.jpg

 

But I eventually managed to get some close enough. Soldering piano wire was a lot less difficult than I'd been led to beleive.

soldered_zpsa1fe5217.jpg

 

For suspension/damper springs I wound hard nickel silver wire around a piece of brass to form a spring, then cut the spring to length and slipped it over a piece of piano wire. Soldered the two into pieces into place on the chassis. It went together beautifully simply.

 

springs_zpse498e106.jpg

 

Looked good. Looked even. I was happy until I went to slip the rear axle into place. So i had to take them off and move them. That proved considerably more difficult. They're nowhere near as even as they were the first time, but they'll do for me.

 

chassis_zpsd2879368.jpg

 

And with the shell sitting in place it looks ok.

suspension_zps42af3016.jpg

 

testfit_zps27823a98.jpg

 

spring_detail_zps6f3999fc.jpg


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Thanks John. If I measure it and it's too wide I can probably change the front a bit. There's plenty of room to move the wheels inward on the back.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I had someone point out that I have the damper springs in the wrong spot and the axle should be further forward. As it stands the wheelbase is probably considerably longer than it should be.

 

If I had another set of brackets I'd consider making another chassis to correct the issues.

 

Is there a preference for guide in this type of chassis? Somehow my normal Ninco sprung guide doesn't strike me as appropriate.

 

And any suggestions for intake trumpets? Is there anywhere to get motorwire eyelets in bulk? Or perhaps a very small flaring tool that can be used on brass tube?


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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For these type of cars I like the Slotit Sich 10 screw top guide.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Thanks John. That seems to be the consensus on FOne32 as well. Either that or the TSRF guide.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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The Slot Itvscrew guide is good or the NSR is marginally smaller to fit under the front.

Uninsulated Bootlaces ferrules are easily found on EBay or use lead wire ferrules. Not sure if it is NSR or MB who sell chrome ferrules.


Phil

 

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"And any suggestions for intake trumpets"

a bit blurry but are you looking for something like the pipes on my Lola

 

4fcbf889.jpg

 

They are called bootlace ferrules

 

:lol: went looking for the pic and the name of the blasted things and Phil beat me to it :)

Edited by dangermouse

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I wasn't happy with the error that I'd made with the rear suspension. So I borrowed a new set of BWA brackets from Stubbo seeing as Cam's replacements aren't quite ready yet and tried again.

 

chassis2_zps8635f867.jpg

The photo distorts it a little. The front is not as uneven as it appears.

 

Springs2_zps727e30a2.jpg

Springs2b_zps04f9d96d.jpg

suspension2_zpsc72f295c.jpg

 

Got to trim the shell just a little, but it actually matches up pretty well with the adjustments already made.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I wasn't particularly happy with the front, so I redid it.

 

chassis2b_zpsb01122f2.jpg

 

Of course, the change meant that I had to fill the changes I'd made to the chassis. I can really recommend the Tamiya Light Curing putty. It cures quickly and is every bit as hard as the original resin.

 

It's taking a bit more work to get the shell to sit as well on chassis version 2b than on the original, but I think it looking much better.

side_zpsd8c33a8a.jpg

front_zpsc83dbe2f.jpg

rear_zps58b1e9a5.jpg


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Looking very good there Embs...

 

Is the Tamiya Light Curing Putty suitable for use on Ninco Plastic shells?

I need to fill some areas on an old A4 shell to turn it into it's sister car the Bora...

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The Tamiya light curing putty seems to be suitable for absolutely anything. Fabulous stuff. It doesn't shrink and sets hard as a rock. Once you get used to using it I doubt that you'll use anything else for filling. Large jobs just fill them in layers.

 

s11_filling_zps4284d36d.jpg

 

It's not hard to use, but you have to be fairly quick and not work in a bright environment. Even so, it does start to cure while you're using it, unless you can work in a blackout. So it's important to only squeeze a little onto a palette and seal the tube and return it to its bag quickly. As you can see it's yellow, but it takes both sanding and primer well.

 

At around $20 a tube this product is not cheap to buy from the local hobby shop, but like everything these days it is possible to get it cheaper from a certain site.

 

Not, it is suitable for filling, not for detailing or modeling.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I feel a bit like I'm destined to do everything wrong at least once before getting it right. Never mind. Hopefully it means the right way will sink in better for potential future use.

 

I did adjust the rear suspension springs.

tail_chassis_zpsd5f7b029.jpg

 

So the shell sits better on the rear now.

shell_test_rear_zps626877ab.jpg

 

And overall

shell_test2_zps9bee7273.jpg

 

shell_test_zps9dc46ccb.jpg

 

But now I'm not really happy with the guide. It might be because I'm used to using a sprung guide, but it needs work.

guide_chassis_zpsd8c55702.jpg


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Just my opinion,and its difficult to do now as you have used the front bracket,but if you could reset the front axle you would get the chassis down a bit lower and give you good depth on the guide.

 

Terry

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You could also use a longer shaft guide and fit spacers between the guide and the guide plate.

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At the moment I don't have a longer one. At least, not of this type.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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