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Motor Brackets

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DM I think the second from the right is one from Professor Motor. The last one is unfamiliar though. It's thinner than any I've seen for sale.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I think the far right is from REH.

 

The problem with these motor mounts is that you are forced into a situation where the centre of gravity may be too high to allow a better handling car.

 

I know they are easier to work with but for me they restrict you in your build, the slot it offset pods are a good example of this in that they allow you to get a lower c of g as compared to the original standard set ups.

 

Of course you need to then use the offset crown gears.

 

Just my 2 bobs worth.

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Is anyone willing to make some slimline brackets..... I need something for the Tasman which is fast approaching....... sadly I don't have a new motor bracket to use and it would be a shame to pull apart an existing car just to salvage a motor bracket...... if it helps in any way I'd be keen to buy 10-20 :)

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motorbracket_zps1987477c.jpg

 

 

While on the topic of motor brackets,can anyone do those please?

 

Terry

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Does anyone have a picture with some measurements regarding the motor brackets (like DM's pic above but with measurements), I've only ever made them for myself at the size I wanted, never purchased any so I've no idea of the sizes that are available for purchase.

 

cheers

 

Matt

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Working on a drawing

 

Basic measurements are for the motor bracket - 15.75mm wide and 11.2 mm high where the motor screws in.

 

13.75mm long and 9.5mm high where the bearing and axle goes

 

Motor opening is 6mm - bearing opening is 4.75mm

 

motor hole is 3.55mm from base

 

bearings seem to be centred - the extra 1.7mm on the motor bracket is to allow a piece of wire to be soldered to the bracket - therefore the bearing holes are approx 7.5mm (centres) from the base of the bracket

i am not as good at CAD as I need to be :)

 

motorbracket_zps9a82d97f.jpg

Edited by dangermouse

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The positioning of the screwholes is important too.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Dimensions for these are the smaller brackets in my photo

 

I will work on the front bracket drawing - a little hard

 

Front bracket - 13.3mm wide - base is 20.75mm long with the guide hole - the side axle sections are 15.9mm long - they are 8.60mm high and the holes are 5.7mm from the base (centred) the 2 holes are 7.9mm apart (centred)the the back hole is 6mm from the rear of the bracket

 

 

dimensions for the screw holes can be worked out from a FF050 motor (the slim can one)

 

David

DM

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Thanks for the measurements DM, I'll have a crack at making one to the specs you have provided, I'm going to try a new idea which should help making these brackets quicker and easier.

 

cheers

 

Matt

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Hi guys, just a thought here. What about 16mm x 16mm square furniture grade steel tube. Comes in 1.2, 1.6 and 2mm wall thickness. Already square, cut off the desired length, cut the seamed side off and drill as required. Probably a bit heavier than brass but can be soldered and painted and doesn't need bending.

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Steel tube is easy to make brackets from, a bit harder to solder, just needs cleaning and a good acid flux.

It is better than brass.

 

I was just thinking, the one downside I wondered about is, if steel might have a detrimental effect on the motor, especially the magnets?

 

Hadn't given this any thought when I added the last post.

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Hi guys, just a thought here. What about 16mm x 16mm square furniture grade steel tube. Comes in 1.2, 1.6 and 2mm wall thickness. Already square, cut off the desired length, cut the seemed side off and drill as required. Probably a bit heavier than brass but can be soldered and painted and doesn't need bending.

 

I looked at aluminium u brackets - 16x12x1.6 aluminium channel (LINK) as I thought that would work but a FF050 motor won't fit in the channel. I would need to cut space for the motor as well.

 

Still at $5 for a 1m length I thought it might have been worth considering

 

soldering not an option - but then isn't that why they invented JB Weld :)

Edited by dangermouse

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dangermouse, I was thinking about your drawing on post 39 when I added my thoughts on steel as I figured it would be relatively easy to cut that out of 16mm square tube


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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oh I see - 16mm tube cut one side off - I was running off in a whole different direction - a nudge is as good as a wink.......

 

 

:)

Edited by dangermouse

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Nice idea with the Aluminium channel DM, I was thinking along the same lines but using square brass tube.

It's easy to work with, square, so you could pre drill all the required holes and then cut to the desired size.

Now to find where they sell square brass tube in different sizes.

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