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Ember

Glue Or D/s Tape?

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A question for those of you who have been living with braid through both summer and winter. Which is the ultimate preference for durability for braid application? Does the 3M tape really hold well enough. I realize it must be considerably easier to lay in the first place, but how likely is it to come adrift over time and sustained use?


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Wont come off. Clean the braid well with shellite and you will have no problems. I had magnabraid for th kids cars and they went around my track for years and never ever did the braid lift.

 

You wont regret going that way!

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I think the temperatures of the track will have some influence.

My braid was payed using a good contact adhesive some 6 years ago and even that has lifted in a couple of places.

The surface the tape is going on is also important, clean and smooth.


Phil

 

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It will be going onto brand new MDF most probably with a Suede or Tuscan painted surface. I think the room has aircon, I fully expect anything would need some re-gluing after a few years of use, but I don't want to have to contemplate re-doing it in 6 months or so.


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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Lynn, just make sure you apply it to painted mdf, preferably with some clear coat. Have seen it applied to raw mdf and it has definitely lifted.

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I used the blue backed tape on my braid (not labelled 3M). I thoroughly cleaned it with shellite and painted the braid recess so it was sealed. You also need about 1mm gap from the edge of the slot to the braid so the car guides don't pull up the braid on corners. Roll the braid in hard with a wheel to get maximum adhesion.

 

I have had no issues so far, I don't run magnet cars with high down force though.

Most will swear by contact adhesive, the tried and proven method.

 

- Cam


Hoo Roo

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It will be magnabraid for public consumption, hence the wish for best adhesion.

 

Not really contemplated paint surface much. But I figure I'll use Tuscan or Suede as I have on my tracks. Possibly with a low gloss clear over the top.

 

A secondary track will be smaller and scenic, possibly themed toward kids parties. It will definitely be done in the Tuscan for looks. But it is a couple of months down the track (badoom tish).


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I followed Cambers advice... No issue in the cold yet. Thoroughly cleaned the braid with shellite and non residue electrical cleaner. The slot was painted in gloss enamel for best adhesion. As a test, to lift the braid, the braid actually tore apart and was ruined. Very impressive adhesion. I hear you can buy the braid pre applied now. Rick Field is using on his track as well as a few others for reference. Also seen that contact adhesive is proven and is very durable. I was just concerned at the mess I would make with this... But given the proven record would probably be first choice if I could trust my application skills.

 

Dave

Edited by GTR XU-1

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With Glue ..... (prey it doesn"t happen soon or often) but when braid does eventually lift..... sticking the braid back down is a simple job....

 

with Tape ..... how do you fix the small area if this happens.......

 

Another thought.... if I needed to remove "Glued" braid from the track i use concentrated heating to unstick ..... or soak braid in luiqids to clean.

 

How can "Taped" braid be removed from track if needed

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taped my braid, had no issues at all , like others cleaned the braid with shellite before laying. was so easy an NO MESS. I glued my first track and wont glue again, 3M is the go


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The other thing to consider when laying braid is to not pull it too tight...

All of the braid I've seen lifting is because it was pulled too tight in the corners...

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OK. Looks like I'll be going for the tape method when I get the ok to start ordering and building.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Embs, do yourself a favour and get the braid that is pre-taped, you won't regret it.


A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain.

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Yup.That's very much the intent. Some things are worth the extra bucks for the convenience, and not having to deal with trying to get silicon paper to go around tightish curves..


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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My 2 cents, Embs. Commercial tracks are all glued. Fixing a braid up usually only requires a hot 70 watt soldering iron that is clean.


Stu

 

Old racers race harder

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yep.. . a bit more work ..... but.... "tried & proven" is peace of mind...... Especially for home tracks where you might want to re use the braid on the next track

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Spot-on Rusty, especially if you're braiding on a hot day, then it all cools and contracts even more.


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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