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ZeGas

Ultimate Racer 3.0 Timing Set-Up Problems

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Here we go again.

 

I've trolled through everything I can find and understand the logistic of it all, that is, setting up a timing system.

 

So I have made a start, here's where I'm at.

 

I have a 25 pin male parallel plug (nude at the moment) plugged into my LPT1 port.

I have setup UR3.0 so that Pin 11 is for Lane 1 and Pin 12 is for Lane 2.

I have also set pins 5 to 9 as starting lights. (red lights 1 to 5 in the settings)

Using a volt meter and pin 25 as earth I am testing as I go to see if I get the expected results.

 

Start with the lights

Earth (pin 25) and pin 9

I get a 5v reading with nothing started as I expected, I start UR3.0 in heat mode, still 5v as light countdown starts, I expected zero (0) and pin 9 voltage reading does not change.

I was expecting zero volts and then 5 volts when start sequence goes to that pin 9.

 

Next the timing

Earth pin 25 Lane 1 pin 11

I start UR3.0 in heat mode and about every 4 seconds I break the circuit with the voltmeter and then connect again, I am seeing nothing on the timing system, no lap and no time.

 

I have tried changing the I/O address for LPT1 from auto to 0378-037F with the interrupt request at 05 and at 07.

 

Getting no response whatsoever from the voltmeter in regards to the lights and the heat mode in regards to the timing.

 

I have also tried various other pins 18 through to 25 to no avail.

 

In regards to the lights I have read Gazzas4x4 (not sure if it Gazza from here) old post on slot car illustrated http://slotcarillust...ead.php?t=14151 and still can't get the lights working.

 

I've gone through these posts as well

http://slotcarillust...ead.php?t=54337

http://www.auslot.co...o-interrupters/

 

Note that I haven't tried with LEDs or photo interrupter, only the voltmeter.

 

I'm also guessing that I can use any pin 18 through to 25 as an earth.

 

Last thing can some please tell me what is high state and low state and how it affects the usage.

 

Can someone please please please tell me the missing link?

 

EDIT:

Also as an afterthought the port in UR3.0 is set to 0x378 for the LPT port hence why I tried changing the I/O address.

Edited by ZeGas

Cheers Grant

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Partial success, I have the lights working now as expected but still cannot get the timing working.

Set LPT port to 378-037F and the setting in UR3.0 to 0x378 and restarted the computer.

Is this a case of OUT is good and working but IN is not, where to look.


Cheers Grant

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You can't trigger the lap timing with a voltmeter...

 

Get a resistor and use that to join the lane pins to ground.

If you just short it with a wire, you can actually damage some ports.

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The thread on SCI is incorrect,the resistor values for the LEDS is wrong you will need some thing around 150 Ohms for 5 volt operation.

 

Rusty is right you should not try and use just any meter for testing the output,or triggering the counter pins.


Phil

 

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Thank you very much guys.

 

All working grand, now to build the system, great way to spend a Friday night.

 

Yeah, I guessed that the resistor was wrong there, I did a check myself 3 / .02 = 150 in my book too.

 

Thanks again.


Cheers Grant

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Gaaargh,

 

I have the photo interrupter (JayCar ZD1901).

I have it working fine with an LED attached as a trigger using this diagram

 

figNoggle_optoSwitchWiring1PS.GIF

 

The note at the bottom is wrong the light is on when not interrupted

 

LED light goes on and off as it is interrupted. The photo interrupter is in series after the LED (I have also tried removing the LED and have the photo interrupter in it's place).

 

But it is not registering in UR3 as a lap.

 

Pins are set correctly and if I just short the emitter and collector leads it will register in UR3.

I have also tried with a 1000ohm, 500ohm, 50ohm & no resister and has made no difference.

I have checked the IR light it is working fine as I would expect because the LED turns on and off.

I have also tried reversing the emitter / collector polarity with no change.

 

Can anyone please tell me what is going on and what I'm doing wrong?


Cheers Grant

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Sorry Phil do not understand "Show"?

 

I have connected IR transmitter anode to pin 13 cathode to 25 (Pin 13 is not assigned in UR3 so it is always on)

IR receiver collector to pin 12 emitter to pin 25 (also tried reverse of this).

No resistors on receiver side, 150 ohm on transmitter side.


Cheers Grant

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Got it ... "Show us" ... doh ... I'll get a photo uploaded soon.


Cheers Grant

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OK

Left side is IR transmitter

Right the Receiver (bottom to top and top to bottom, not touching)

 

IMAG1201.jpg

 

As you can see IR is working fine

 

IMAG1197.jpg


Cheers Grant

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Had similar issues with my photo transistor receivers...

Try wiring the receiver 'back to front'...

 

There are 2 modes for photo transistors, and the reverse mode is what is required for the parallel port to recognise them.

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Hooray got it, thanks SR that did the trick.

 

I did try that with the Photo interrupter but it didn't work, was prudent enough when I went to Jaycar today to get an IR transmitter and Receiver, and hey it works, in principal at least.

 

Thanks guys very much.


Cheers Grant

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Glad all is working. Your connections for an NPN were correct with the Collector to low pins (10 to 13) and Emitter to 22 to 25. That connection should would with Parallel port,Trakmate interface and Arduino. It is the same as we are using with the old DS sensors. The jaycar site does not say if the interupter they sell is NPN or PNP.

Have you brought seperate components now? I did try the Jaycar sensors some years ago and found that the transmitter had to be close to the reciever to work consistantly.

Also best to run all the earths back to the PC to prevent any crosstalk.


Phil

 

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The jaycar photo transistors work well from 10cm with infrared transmitters.

Their photo diodes however seem to top out at 3cm.

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I struggled with the transistors on my test setup, but is probably 120 mm under the bridge, plenty of clearance for trucks!

The diodes were a waste of effort.

I started testing all of these years ago when the first Trakmate sensors required so much light. Just went out and brought one of everything that was availabe at the time.

The original DS were just so much better than anything else. I also found one of the Philips interrupters worked well on the drag strip we had at that time.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wickedy poop,

 

Got it all running good after a few malfunctions.

I decided to go under track because of the issues SR & Phil raised regarding a light bridge.

So ground the sides of the rails flat and cut out a bit of track so they would sit flat.

Rigged it all up then slapped on a bit of lecky tape and viola.

Tested and working good no laps missed to date.

 

Now for the start lights and and tower.

 

IMAG1205.jpg

 

IMAG1208.jpg

 

IMAG1209.jpg

 

IMAG1210.jpg

 

Again thanks very much guys for your help I'd still be twiddling my thumbs trying to sort it out otherwise.

Edited by ZeGas

Cheers Grant

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No problems with the help,I battled for several weeks many years ago to sort my sensors for Trackmate,so very happy to pass on any info.

Just check that the clea/whiter Nylon guides work O/K. We had a problem on the drag strip with a few guides that would not trigger sometimes. Not sure know if they were white or light coloured nylon, we just painted them black.


Phil

 

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Also glad to help... the more that help, the bigger the whole scene gets...

 

 

Some of the blue scaley guides may also not work with that setup...

To make the 'lighter' guides work better, you can lower the intensity (by using a higher value resistor) of the transmitter so they have less light to block when triggering the sensor...

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