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Gareth Andrews

Trackmate Infrared Led's

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Ok, so this is sort of a scenery question....wasn't exactly sure which sub-forum to put it in.

 

I've built a new start-line gantry and three-storey control tower (aha!....scenery!).

Unfortunately when loading in the Trackmate infrared LED's into the new gantry I broke one. To get a single replacement from Trackmate in the US will cost $20 postage, a bit ridiculous to me for an LED.

 

Does anyone know the specs for these infrared LED's so I could pick one up from Jaycar or smewhere? Not just the size (pretty sure they are 5mm) but the correct nms volts amps etc etc so I can wire it directly into the loom without adding any resistors and all that stuff?

 

Any electronic gurus knowledge on this would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers!

Gareth

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SlotsNZ would be the best person to ask about the in's and out's of the trackmate setup


Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Gareth

I am using 5mm ZD 1945 from Jaycar. $1.25 each

 

I am not sure what sensors and IR transmiters Trakmate are supplying these days.As I have been building ours for about 12 years.

 

THE Trakmate IR transmitter loom should have either one resistor built in IF the Transmitters are wired in series OR one resistor per IR LED if they are in Parallel.

Most IR Leds are very similar spec so you should just be able to solder the new one in to the existing loom,just ensure you have the LED the right way around.

 

The easiest wat to check if they are working is to use your phone camera as it will see the lighted LED.

 

If you have one more questions feel free to Email OR PM me.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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Thanks Phil.

Pretty sure the trackmate loom is wired in series to a dc 12V 0.5amp supply with each of the 4 LED's draining 3 volts. But it doesn't appear to have any resistors in the circuit (unless they are very well hidden under the heatshrink).

Found a seller in Melbourne, pretty sure its the same infrared LED, 10 for $4.35 including postage.

Cheers!

 

Gareth

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Everything Phil said is on the button, just a couple of additions.

 

You can simply run a multimeter across the circuit without the power supply attached. That will tell you resistance (I am sure there is some built in, I just don't have an original trackmate board myself.) I am guessing you'll get a reading around 560 ohms. - or 1/4 of that ie 140 ohms

 

The power supply from Trackmate is 12V so then you can run it and measure milli-amps across the circuit, which will be somewhere between 60 and 80 at a guess with 3 LEDs running.

 

Aim for an LED that draws about 20 - 25ma, at 12V with 560 or 470 ohm resistor. (any wattage resistor will do fine) I am pretty sure Daniel wires them in parallel.

 

Those being the case, (or close to it), you just have to determine if the LEDs are outputting at pure IR of 940 nm or the quite common lower figure of 850nm.

 

You DO really want a matching frequency LED, as the sensors will be receiving at optimum of one or the other.

 

Worst comes to worst, it doesn't work with one frequency LED, so you use the other.

 

I have some 850nm ones, and I blast them at around 26ma against a rating of 20ma. I have only replaced one for a customer in about 5 years, they seem to be rock solid.

 

I also have matching sensors which like the original Dick Smith ZD1951, are unfiltered, 850 nm peak receptivity, and respond to visible light as well as IR.

They're just about 25% less sensitive to the original ones sold by D.S. but they work fine.

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Mark I will see your 5 years and up you to 14 years! Yes these IR LEDs never seem to fail. Like Mark I have replaced one on the very first set I built years ago and I have never replaced any sensors.

Several tracks down here do not run light bridges, just rely on the ambient light in the room.

 


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi all,

Thanks for the responses, much appreciated!

Unless I'm losing the plot, this 4-lane LED infrared rig is Definitely wired in series, not parallel.

And not a resistor in sight between the loom and the 12v 0.5 A "wall wart".

I guess I'll have to try it with a new 850nm LED when they arrive and see how it goes...

Cheers,

Gareth

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If they are wired in series and 1 fails, usually all of the LED's will then turn off.

Parrallel is definately better in this instance as then you can have a failure and it will still work.

 

My light bridge also has 2 led's per lane so that if there is a failure, it will still work.

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Ok just another follow up.

Bought a packet of 10 5mm infra red LED's from a bloke called bennyinternational on epay (no afilliation etc). soldered one in, works fine.

Now I have 9 spares...

Cheers,

Gareth

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