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Group 5 Proxy Series


drw21

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Carrera do a DeTomaso Pantera, I was going to enter one but went down the Sideways path for better(?) performance. Maybe next year.

If you saw this one, maybe you'll change your mind:

Edited by chenglaw

Lim

 

I enjoy racing. Winning or losing is secondary.

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Carrera do a DeTomaso Pantera, I was going to enter one but went down the Sideways path for better(?) performance. Maybe next year.

If you saw this one, maybe you'll change your mind:

I saw it and ordered it 6-7 months ago and was hopeing it would be available by the Grp 5 start.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all.

 

One thing I have noted is almost all cars have Slot-it motor mounts. Did anybody experiment with original Sideways one. Is it too flexible or what. I have recently bought SW car but would prefer to keep original parts. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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Hi Chas, we ditch the Sideways motor pods straight away. They seem to be too flexible and cause lots of 'axle tramp' issues similar to what we've seen with the yellow 512BB and Aquakiwi's Lancia.

We fit a slot-it motor pod, either angle winder or side winder, do the usual tweaks and the cars run much smoother.

I did try the slot-it angle winder pod with the yellow Flat 6 motor but still found the car easier to drive as a side winder.

I chose to use NSR shark motors (and I hate to say this) but they really do seem more consistent and better balanced than other motors when of similar price.

I know NSR shark motors are balanced, you can see the epoxy fitted to the armature to verify it. (I'm not knocking other brand, just stating a fact).

If you want to stay with the Sideways motor pod, brace it as much as possible and it should be fine, remember that the way a car runs is an overall package type of deal.

Track power, motor, weight, gearing, grip, axle bushes, chassis set up all have a part of what needs to be considered when putting a car together IF you want it to win races, some cars are built just to look cool when driven and that's great too as not all cars need to go fast.

my 20 cents worth - Dave

Edited by drw21
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Chas

I've experimented with quite a few setups on these. As usual, Dave's experience is on the money.

I do have one Capri running standard pod braced with piano wire across the back edge of the motor, and onto the top of both axle bushes.

It is silky smooth, and has been competitive in Group 5 at club till now.

 

I have a couple of cars running the stock Flat-6 in Slot.it "hard" angle-winder pod CH82 with 1mm offset, and they are pretty smooth, but like Dave, I prefer sidewinder setups, as there are no angular twisting forces at all, and I prefer the lightness and balance on our local tracks which are all very smooth.

 

The CH62 EVO-6 pod with the side wings gives a measure of control over he amount of "tipping angle" on the pod regardless of the other 4 screw settings, and that's what I am slowly moving to as I get to grips with it - though I used a CH62 4 screw pod in my proxy entry.

Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *  Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose :rolleyes:)  *  Total kidder  *  Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol:  

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Yeah, 32coupe makes a good point I neglected to mention. I also use JB Weld for such things as it sets like concrete, whereas most common 2 pot epoxies set "tough", but are entirely rigid, and they soften with heat (from the motor)

 

JB Weld is stable at all temperatures.

Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *  Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose :rolleyes:)  *  Total kidder  *  Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol:  

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Hi Guys, here is the Car info sheet that Chas mentioned................... I have posted it here as it's relevant to the Series and not just one particular Race.

 

Thank You Chas for going to the trouble of accumulating this info.

 

A big change to see only 2 HRS chassis in the Series, shows that the Sideways chassis are good to start with.

 

Carinfo2014_zps3bcc6bf1.jpg

Edited by drw21
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Neil, there is no special method I used in mounting the rear axle. Having decided on the chassis layout, I determined where the rear axle would be located and cut a slot in the chassis plate about an inch long so that I could fit an oblong piece of 1mm thick fibreglass to serve as a mounting plate for the rear axle tube which, in this case, was a drilled out short piece of 1/4" teflon rod as I wasn't sure if a brass tube would be legal for this proxy. The bearings were then fitted into the drilled out rod. The axle was slipped through the bearings, a/w spur fitted together with wheels and the whole assembly was offered up to the mounting plate, making sure that I had enough track clearance for the chassis (just put a a 1/16" thick plate between chassis and your jig). Install your pinion on your motor and make the necessary adjustments so that your drive gear is spaced where you need it to be. This would also determine the exact location of your motor. Once you're satisfied everything is where you want them to be, mark the location of the motor on the chassis plate, remove motor and rough up the surface where the motor is supposed to sit.

 

Now it's epoxy time. Apply epoxy to the rear axle tube mounting plate where it sits in the slot in the chassis. Then rough up the surface of the axle tubing where it butts against the mounting plate. Next apply a generous amount of epoxy to the axle tube assembly and mounting plate, making sure that axle tube is pushed tightly against ehe mounting plate. Let the epoxy cure and harden. Then comes the next step, Apply epoxy to the spot where the motor is supposed to sit. Then offer up the motor (with pinion installed) to the rear axle assembly and get the angle of the gear mesh correct and everything moves smoothly. Then leave everything to set. For good measure, apply some epoxy between the motor and the rear axle to keep everything rigid and a solid back end. The one drawback about this method is that you're stuck with just that one motor as changing it is not as easy as a screw in method. The advantage is that you get a rigid and vibration-free rear end. I have been using this procedure on a number of my cars and have had no problems with prolonged usage which is why I'm a little mystified why the motor in my 'Vette worked loose after only 3 races. Well, I guess that's what a proxy will do to you - if there's a chance something can go wrong, it will go wrong!

 

Here are a few photos of a chassis which served as the prototype for the one in my 'Vette. They are virtually identical.

 

DSC09952_zpsbb00efd2.jpgDSC09955_zps0af77d3e.jpg

 

:

And in these 2 shots, you can see the rear axle mounting plate epoxied to the chassis and the axle tube glued to it.

DSC09953_zpse63ebed2.jpgDSC09954_zpsbb5635ec.jpg

 

The one thing to remember is that all surfaces to be epoxied must be clean and should be roughed up where possible for the epoxy to lock on. Alternatively, if you prefer to be able to change motors, you can make a motor mounting plate and locate it in the chassis in similar fashion as with the rear axle mounting tube. I thought of doing that but I ran out of space to make a strong mounting point for the plate. For epoxy, you can use JB Weld as it sets very hard and strong and is perfect for this sort of application. I used a locally made steel-filled epoxy with similar qualities as JB Weld and it has worked well for me, except for that one glitch with the 'Vette. If you want to try this method, go right ahead and jump in, nothing to lose and you'll probably enjoy the experience! Good Luck!

Edited by chenglaw

Lim

 

I enjoy racing. Winning or losing is secondary.

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Too late for me as cars on way to Napier but if people want to advise happy to add gear ratio to list to spreadsheet and send up-date to Dave.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

Chas, the gears in my 'Vette were originally 36:10 but I've got no idea what they are now after rebuilding by Mike.

Lim

 

I enjoy racing. Winning or losing is secondary.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think he has just forgotten to update the headers since he made it up.

We swapped out my track for Chris' track a couple of months back, to provide some variety, and a faster track for the cars to stretch the legs out on.

 

R4 was Thunder Raceway

Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *  Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose :rolleyes:)  *  Total kidder  *  Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol:  

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