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Scalextric Hdt Torana L34

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Replace the plastic wheels with Slot.it alloys and fit MJK tyres,add a little bit of weight and you will have a rocket on your hands.I have done this to all 3 Brock Toranas and they all lap the flat black track at Mobile Raceways in 6.8 secs lap after lap without deslotting

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Thanks Tony,

yes - that would be my plan... and I am very comforted to learn that the model runs quickly with the upgrades...but - I need to know what rules apply to the classes this model can run in.... I vetted the Lola so that it is only allowed in "social" class... I would like to keep this one legal for all classes I am entitled to run it in...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Got the XB Roscoe and it is a sidewinder, and changed much of it used Slot it wheels upped the motor to a 25k Slot it, MJK tyres on the rear, slot it gears, and it went very well but after,the fitting a Nova B Guide adaptor and fitting slot it guide to it then it went extremely well stayed in the slot hard to deslot It with out bad driving, no sure what rules you are working under thought. :)

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Ross take my advice put it back in the box and go and buy a sidewinder Scalex to run.

The Toranas will just not cut it against the Camaros and XB,s.

I persevered for a long time and finally managed to get one of mine with 3 tenths of an XB but that was after a lot of work.

IMO the 70 Camaro is a much better car, and the Pioneer may be even better.


Phil

 

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Thanks Peter, Phil and Espsix - all noted and appreciated.

Peter, I detest plastic rear wheels - in particular knurled ones. Of all the knurled ones I have in my collection - not one of them has run true on the axle.

I believe they are hand pressed/forced on without any due respect for alignment until they crash at the end of the axle and then tyres are fitted and the model is sent along the line until it eventually ends up in the box..... my thoughts.

 

Alloy rims have been a totally different outcome - with the exception of a couple I had made for me which were over-drilled ever so slightly.

 

As for tyres - until something better comes along - my preferred are MJK's... the bundle of Paul Gage tyres I purchased for these little Tasman proxy races are also very good - but I believe who ever has tooled and molds up the MJK's has effected a better product.

 

I don't know why, and would be keen to learn - black tyres when true'd produce white dust..... somewhat akin to how black tyres on bitumen make blue smoke....

 

Phil, I fully agree with your suggestion - yes, this poor little model could have been given a lot more in the way of performance engineering on Scalextric's drawing board.... and will never, in a coarse tuned state - be competitive with a similarly tuned side-winder.

 

I am certain I'm not alone in this - we must thank Scalextric for producing one of these great Oz icons... they are far and few between in comparison to the common international spectrum which most likely affords a greater market.

 

I note your suggestion to go seek a Camaro or similar for such events... the Pioneer ones Ember has posted on the home page look sweet.

Maybe one of those will ultimately be the direction I take when I eventually take up a position within the club I have just joined - but, I do love this model L34 and will run it regularly both at home and on club layouts... this is my quest.

 

I would be keen to learn, either here or by PM on how you tweaked your model to reach a near competitive level - bearing in mind I can only make changes as Espsix has mentioned.

 

Espsix - we are yet to meet up... I too, am a new member of Phoenix... I'm a bit of a Phantom, I'm afraid... you probably have read a lot of my dribble and heard mention of me in recent dispatches at the club... but I rarely ever get seen - this is an unfortunate restriction in my life due to many complicated reasons.. but, I do very much hope to meet up and share a track with you in the near future.

 

I will go ahead and order the wheels and MJK's.. I have concerns that a Slot-It crown might not be acceptable and I do not yet know if I allowed to shim/space the rear axle to overcome the narrow crown slot/pinon shaft issue... I have a spare 27 tth nylon/brass crown and of course can find a matching brass 9 tth pinon to fit the motor - I want to get away from any knurled axles...so, I would be keen to fit a hardened steel one at the same time... to be discussed at club level..

 

As for the fronts - well, I've pretty much covered that - and will also chase up the club committee on what can legally be done - they really are a mess up front..... as mentioned in many other replies to my ongoing issues with front axle arrangements by popular manufacturers - these models are really not designed for competition beyond that of a temporary lounge-room layout..... and are probably fit for that purpose as supplied.

 

Thanks again folk for responding and following this thread... I do intend to achieve a smooth running little car.. be it slightly competitive or not..

 

Any word on pulling out the booster seat from under the driver... he sits far too high in the cabin for my liking....I might address the clumbsy looking mega-wipers as well... but the rest of the model is sweet....

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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There is no issue with shimming/spacing the rear axle, as per rules, but you will find a SlotIt crown will rub on the chassis. ( another reason I used the original ).

Do want you want with the booster seat, as long as the interior doesn't end up being light weight lexan.

See at one of the race nights in the future.

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Thanks Espsix... forgot about that silly little sump under the crown... guess we can't chop it out?

If I must use the original crown - I will adopt your practice of slotting the axle and perhaps drilling/tapping the hub slot to accept a short M2 grub... might need to bush the crown hub to centre it on the axle though - I expect the original was pressed onto a knurled axle for the crown as well... grrrrrrr - cheap, nasty - but effective.

 

Much easier to cut clearance in the chassis for a Slot-It crown - appreciate any ruling on allowance to do this, Espsix.. I'm guessing it's a no-no - or you would have simply done this.....

 

Thanks for details on the interior - no, won't be altering anything except the driver's height - I'd like the head in a horizontal centre to the side window.. think that's what I remember when watching PB run this icon in the series. Certainly don't remember any L34 drivers "lurching" down to see under the visor.....

 

Have ordered the PA33 ALS wheels and MJK 4263 tyres... both fronts and rears...

 

I'd like to ditch the knurled front axle as well and fit a steel one... front and back wheels/tyres will then run true.

 

More to come - probably pick this little project up again next week when supplies arrive.

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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A scaley axle is 3/32 at the knurl, so front wheel can be twisted off the scaley axle and pushed on and super glued onto a drill blank axle.

Same for the scaley crown.

I dremel a slot in the axle on a 45 degree angle to act like a keyway and the glue acts as a key.

I not sure on cutting a clearance in the chassis, that's something you'd have to ask Mark Pollard.

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Mark Pollard? Tall guy? Blonde? Works for NAB (or used to)?


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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In my opinion the Torana's have been a huge disappointment. Especially with non magnet racing.

I remember the first release was pretty much sold out within days of release.

Now, they sit on the shelves for months cuz they're crap.

The Falcons are a winner in every respect.

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