Jump to content


Tasman Cup Build



36 replies to this topic

#1 miveson

    Raid

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,912 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 16 January 2014 - 09:11 PM

Well we are now well and truly in to 2014 and I thought I'd post up a thread of my build for the 2014 Tasman Cup.

Last year I entered a Penelope Pitlane Chassis (not really a scratch build). This year i decided that I was finally going to put some effort in and have a go at building a scratch built chassis. I have been busy finding the right tools for job (which is obvious from the photograph below).

Posted Image

Anyways, the tools and parts have been sitting on the bench for a while and I finally have some time off next week so will dedicate a day to building the chassis.

For the observant amongst you, I'm building a Porsche 804 (pretty basic car and build work, but seeing as this will be my first scratch chassis - it is probably the most appropirate build that I could do and a natural step from the pre built chassis from last year.

The wire bending tools are simply amazing and I should have no trouble at all replicating the 804 detail.

Still plenty to do and I'll add photos as I progress, I for one have spent a lot of time researching the best methods and mechanisms for a scratch build and I'm hopefully that I can build something that is competitive....

The 804 body and wheels inserts are from Tassie Resins (thanks Phil)............

#2 terry

    V8 Fujitsu Series Driver

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,635 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Newcastle NSW

Posted 17 January 2014 - 06:26 AM

Good stuff Mark,

Love the jig,but I'm especially envious of those pliers!

Hopefully we can get to see your progress as the weeks go by,what would we do without Phil?

#3 Ember

    Possible diorama queen

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,238 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Hamilton, Victoria

Posted 17 January 2014 - 06:33 AM

Yay! You're going to have fun Mark. I know I am, among the frustrations. But you do have quite a few advantages in your tool kit there. Benders would probably make life a bit easier. And the jig definitely will.

Good luck.
Computers. They'll never catch on.

Posted Image

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

#4 manimmal

    I'm Rad

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,713 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Crib Point Victoria

Posted 17 January 2014 - 07:13 AM

Waaaay to neat and organised there Mark! I look forward to watching your build, mine just needs fine adjustment when the weather gets under 40....
My mum says I'm an excellent driver

#5 miveson

    Raid

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,912 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 17 January 2014 - 11:32 AM

Thanks for the kind words - the problem bit is my poor building skills and impatience.

The pliers were on the expensive side - however it means that creating axle/suspension supports is easily achievable with the pliers compared to unlikely without....

On a side note I have the U shaped rear bracket but the rear holes for the axle are ridiculously large (I would need to put multiple tubes to get down to the right axle width). Any ideas on what to do with these? You can see what I mean from the bracket picture below, the left side and right side holes are massive......

Posted Image

#6 kash15394

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 271 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide.

Posted 17 January 2014 - 11:45 AM

The axle holes are to take.bronze axle bushes (like Parma etc) or ball race bearings.
Kev.

#7 miveson

    Raid

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,912 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 17 January 2014 - 11:55 AM

Hmmmmm. I need to find a source for some of those......

And thank you...... makes perfect sense now.

Edited by miveson, 17 January 2014 - 11:55 AM.


#8 manimmal

    I'm Rad

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,713 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Crib Point Victoria

Posted 17 January 2014 - 12:20 PM

eBay, coupla bucks.
My mum says I'm an excellent driver

#9 lenny broke

    7th runner up 1978 South Australian Womp Championship

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,486 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide (Port area)

Posted 17 January 2014 - 12:21 PM

Hi Mark
You can get bearings to fit that bracket from Art, that's if you can get him to respond to his e-mails in a reasonable time <_<
I used one of those brackets on my Cooper last year but found it a bit bulky for the bodyshell around the back end using oilite bearings
What I ended up doing was cut the arms down at the bearing holes leaving a stump on each side I then made up piano wire supports and used 1/8od brass tube for bearings. I'm at work at present but when I get home I'll take a couple of pics and post them unless someone else beats me to it with a better one. This made the chassis rear end more compact and it was easier to get it all inside the taper of the body's engine cover.
Alan

Edited by lenny broke, 17 January 2014 - 12:24 PM.


#10 dangermouse

    Triple Crown Champion

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,937 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brisbane

Posted 17 January 2014 - 12:24 PM

You can get the oilites from ACE Hobbies as well

http://acehobbies.co...products_id=584

cheers
David

#11 miveson

    Raid

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,912 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 17 January 2014 - 12:40 PM

Thanks Lenny - makes perfect sense. A couple of photos would be great (no rush) to ensure the picture in my head is the same as what you have described.

DM - thank you as well I'll pickup some oilites anyways.

#12 Ember

    Possible diorama queen

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,238 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Hamilton, Victoria

Posted 17 January 2014 - 01:18 PM

Two versions of the single flange oilites available Mark depending on how much space you have. The ones with "speed ring" are readily available or there is a flat faced version for when space is at a premium.
Computers. They'll never catch on.

Posted Image

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

#13 kalbfellp

    Formula 1 Driver

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,856 posts
  • Location:Hobart, Tasmania

Posted 17 January 2014 - 02:54 PM

Any commercial slot track should have the bearings, 3/32 x 3/16. You can also use standard RTR 3/32 bearings just file of one of the outer flanges, so the BRG will go into the bracket.

#14 miveson

    Raid

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,912 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 17 January 2014 - 03:09 PM

Another nugget........

#15 mattcrackers

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 750 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Beaconsfield,W.A.

Posted 17 January 2014 - 03:51 PM

G'day Mark,

Here's a pic of my home-made motor bracket.

Posted Image

As you can see where the large holes for the axles are on your bracket I have used a larger diameter brass tube (sorry can't remember the size of the top of my head) and soldered it in place ready for the oilites to be push fitted. One length of brass tube was used, making sure it was at the correct height, then soldered in position and finally cut to the required size. You probably don't need to use the brass tube as your bracket will probably be spot on and fitting the oilites etc into the holes available should be fine.

cheers

Matt

#16 miveson

    Raid

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,912 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 17 January 2014 - 04:21 PM

Many thanks Matt - oilites are on there way so should be good...... right on to the next challenge............. what to cook for dinner tonight....

#17 charlesx

    V8 Supercar Driver

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,627 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Plymouth, NZ

Posted 17 January 2014 - 07:14 PM

Hi Mark.

The BWA brackets are good for beginners like you and me although you appear to have some pretty flash tools. An alternative to oilites is to carefully cut a double flanged brass bearing exactly in two. That way you get 2 for 1. This appeals to my Scottish/Channel Islands heritage.

Saw what Lenny said but there is plenty of scope to cut down the BWA bracket without destroying its basic strength. This seemed to work well with both my Cooper Climax T53 and T60.

Best of luck with your build. I am hoping to re-vamp my T53 for 2014 event.

Regards

Chas Le Breton

#18 miveson

    Raid

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,912 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 19 January 2014 - 05:55 PM

The heat has been crazy of late and it's been difficult to find the motivation or energy to get anything done on the build.

Posted Image

It might not look like much but I've got my piano wire width sorted so that it will fit the body, cut the motor shaft, fitted the pinion and sanded the body to ensure that the motor/bracket will fit inside. I'm going to wait for some oilites which dear Ember is sending to me whilst I wait for a delivery from NZ. The table looks like the Wolf of Wall street Belford has been over :)

Now for my next couple of questions.....

Posted Image

1. I need to cut a nice square out of the body in the area market red and #1.... the question is how far should I cut up... trial and error until such time as the axle doesn't touch the body?
2. Should I move the motor/pinion as far back as possible?
3. Looking at my Cartrix 804 the front wheels sit a fair way back from the nose around about where I have marked the other red area with #2. Does this look like a reasonable area to cut some squares for the front axle?
4. The BWA motor bracket has an extra mm on the bottom compared to the top (unsure what side is top of bottom). Is there a reason for this? I assumed that the tab (or extra height) should be on the bottom? If nobody knows what I'm talking about I'll take a photo to explain further.

Any advice as ever is gratefully received........

#19 charlesx

    V8 Supercar Driver

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,627 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Plymouth, NZ

Posted 19 January 2014 - 06:42 PM

Hi Miveson.

I have used the notched extra depth to help locate the side rails. On cut-outs trail and error probably but prototype openings should provide good guide. Wheelbase should be as close as possible to scale so this should guide your actions too. Appreciate rules allow some variation but I have always tried to get mine as close as possible to scale.

Will look forward to future progress.

Regards

Chas Le Breton

#20 kalbfellp

    Formula 1 Driver

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,856 posts
  • Location:Hobart, Tasmania

Posted 19 January 2014 - 06:42 PM

Mark the motor pinion distance is set by the bracket!
Build the chassis to the correct wheelbase for the Porsche and then cut the body openings. The height of the openings is determined by the height of the front axle in the chassis.
The chassis should just sit inside the body.
Charles is right about the bracket, the cut out allow the rails to go along the bracket legs for more strength.

Edited by kalbfellp, 19 January 2014 - 06:48 PM.






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users