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miveson

Tasman Cup Build

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Well we are now well and truly in to 2014 and I thought I'd post up a thread of my build for the 2014 Tasman Cup.

 

Last year I entered a Penelope Pitlane Chassis (not really a scratch build). This year i decided that I was finally going to put some effort in and have a go at building a scratch built chassis. I have been busy finding the right tools for job (which is obvious from the photograph below).

 

804_1.jpg

 

Anyways, the tools and parts have been sitting on the bench for a while and I finally have some time off next week so will dedicate a day to building the chassis.

 

For the observant amongst you, I'm building a Porsche 804 (pretty basic car and build work, but seeing as this will be my first scratch chassis - it is probably the most appropirate build that I could do and a natural step from the pre built chassis from last year.

 

The wire bending tools are simply amazing and I should have no trouble at all replicating the 804 detail.

 

Still plenty to do and I'll add photos as I progress, I for one have spent a lot of time researching the best methods and mechanisms for a scratch build and I'm hopefully that I can build something that is competitive....

 

The 804 body and wheels inserts are from Tassie Resins (thanks Phil)............

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Good stuff Mark,

 

Love the jig,but I'm especially envious of those pliers!

 

Hopefully we can get to see your progress as the weeks go by,what would we do without Phil?

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Yay! You're going to have fun Mark. I know I am, among the frustrations. But you do have quite a few advantages in your tool kit there. Benders would probably make life a bit easier. And the jig definitely will.

 

Good luck.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Waaaay to neat and organised there Mark! I look forward to watching your build, mine just needs fine adjustment when the weather gets under 40....


My mum says I'm an excellent driver

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Thanks for the kind words - the problem bit is my poor building skills and impatience.

 

The pliers were on the expensive side - however it means that creating axle/suspension supports is easily achievable with the pliers compared to unlikely without....

 

On a side note I have the U shaped rear bracket but the rear holes for the axle are ridiculously large (I would need to put multiple tubes to get down to the right axle width). Any ideas on what to do with these? You can see what I mean from the bracket picture below, the left side and right side holes are massive......

 

050-Brackets07-200mp.jpg

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Hi Mark

You can get bearings to fit that bracket from Art, that's if you can get him to respond to his e-mails in a reasonable time <_<

I used one of those brackets on my Cooper last year but found it a bit bulky for the bodyshell around the back end using oilite bearings

What I ended up doing was cut the arms down at the bearing holes leaving a stump on each side I then made up piano wire supports and used 1/8od brass tube for bearings. I'm at work at present but when I get home I'll take a couple of pics and post them unless someone else beats me to it with a better one. This made the chassis rear end more compact and it was easier to get it all inside the taper of the body's engine cover.

Alan

Edited by lenny broke

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Two versions of the single flange oilites available Mark depending on how much space you have. The ones with "speed ring" are readily available or there is a flat faced version for when space is at a premium.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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G'day Mark,

 

Here's a pic of my home-made motor bracket.

 

Lotus16013.jpg

 

As you can see where the large holes for the axles are on your bracket I have used a larger diameter brass tube (sorry can't remember the size of the top of my head) and soldered it in place ready for the oilites to be push fitted. One length of brass tube was used, making sure it was at the correct height, then soldered in position and finally cut to the required size. You probably don't need to use the brass tube as your bracket will probably be spot on and fitting the oilites etc into the holes available should be fine.

 

cheers

 

Matt

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Hi Mark.

 

The BWA brackets are good for beginners like you and me although you appear to have some pretty flash tools. An alternative to oilites is to carefully cut a double flanged brass bearing exactly in two. That way you get 2 for 1. This appeals to my Scottish/Channel Islands heritage.

 

Saw what Lenny said but there is plenty of scope to cut down the BWA bracket without destroying its basic strength. This seemed to work well with both my Cooper Climax T53 and T60.

 

Best of luck with your build. I am hoping to re-vamp my T53 for 2014 event.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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The heat has been crazy of late and it's been difficult to find the motivation or energy to get anything done on the build.

 

804_2.jpg

 

It might not look like much but I've got my piano wire width sorted so that it will fit the body, cut the motor shaft, fitted the pinion and sanded the body to ensure that the motor/bracket will fit inside. I'm going to wait for some oilites which dear Ember is sending to me whilst I wait for a delivery from NZ. The table looks like the Wolf of Wall street Belford has been over :)

 

Now for my next couple of questions.....

 

804_3.jpg

 

1. I need to cut a nice square out of the body in the area market red and #1.... the question is how far should I cut up... trial and error until such time as the axle doesn't touch the body?

2. Should I move the motor/pinion as far back as possible?

3. Looking at my Cartrix 804 the front wheels sit a fair way back from the nose around about where I have marked the other red area with #2. Does this look like a reasonable area to cut some squares for the front axle?

4. The BWA motor bracket has an extra mm on the bottom compared to the top (unsure what side is top of bottom). Is there a reason for this? I assumed that the tab (or extra height) should be on the bottom? If nobody knows what I'm talking about I'll take a photo to explain further.

 

Any advice as ever is gratefully received........

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Hi Miveson.

 

I have used the notched extra depth to help locate the side rails. On cut-outs trail and error probably but prototype openings should provide good guide. Wheelbase should be as close as possible to scale so this should guide your actions too. Appreciate rules allow some variation but I have always tried to get mine as close as possible to scale.

 

Will look forward to future progress.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Mark the motor pinion distance is set by the bracket!

Build the chassis to the correct wheelbase for the Porsche and then cut the body openings. The height of the openings is determined by the height of the front axle in the chassis.

The chassis should just sit inside the body.

Charles is right about the bracket, the cut out allow the rails to go along the bracket legs for more strength.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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Right you are about the bracket.....

 

I'll do some research on the 804 to determine front axle position.... easiest thing to do is use the Cartrix 804 as a guide but that makes the assumption that the Cartrix is to scale. I'll find a real picture and take some measurement.....

 

Thanks for the replies...... whilst it's early days I'm thoroughly enjoying it at the moment...... more body work is planned for tonight, sand the entire body and remove any excess around the driver area........

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These 1.5 litre cars are all around the same wheelbase! Which scales to around 72mm. A couple of Ferrari are longer at 74 .5 to 75 and the early Porsche shorter.

DM measurements are correct. There is a list of all the cars and wheelbase dimensions in the VRAA resources list.

Your 804 should be 71.9 mm. Scale wheelbase. I usually build my chassis to stock 72mm.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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I can't tell you how much I'm liking the jig.... 72mm is a doddle....

 

Spent about 30 minutes today soldering the chassis rails to the motor bracket and the front bracket. Fairly easy and I'm please with the front. I have to make a minor adjustment on the rear bracket as it's about 0.1mm lop sided. You can ignore the wheels and axles for now as I was checking how it would look with the wheels/gears on.

 

804_5.jpg

 

You can see some of the soldering skills (or lack of) below....

 

804_6.jpg

 

I've been busy sanding the resin down so that the brackets will fit in place. I can't quite believe how nice a fit everything is..... plenty of room for everything and it even looks relatively flat which is surprising.....

 

804_4.jpg

 

I'm waiting for my oilites to determine the correct position for the cutting out of the body. I've already sort the driver figure who had a terrible accident and had to have both his legs amputated below the knee - it's a cruel world particularly if your an F1 driver.........

 

Still plenty to do but it's getting better by the day.... I still need to source some decent tyres and decide on front/rear wheels. I'll probably end up using the same wheels/tyres as last year. I still can't believe that I didn't glue some of my tyres last year.

 

Anyways.... enough of my rabble.......

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