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ZeGas

Zegas Raceway

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What if you turn your layers over? The current top straight goes to the bottom. The right end sweep becomes a shallow climb which continues throught the switch backs. The current front straight can climb down a bit....

 

The point is the left end sweep also becomes a level change gradient and back into the tunnel.

 

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I had considered that as it would have made it easier to reach the top right switchback if a car came off.

 

BUT I am left handed so my mind cannot accept driving in the opposite direction, weird huh. I have to go counter clockwise from where the cars are put on.

 

And also the drop back down to the grandstand would be to steep, 600mm over 3m or if the drop carried on around the corner to the left of the grandstand then the return before the tunnel it would be concealed.

 

Ah well.

 

I think reversing the level of the back straight & viaduct is the go but I'll wait till I make a start and lay it all out first.

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I really like your design, the model is really good at helping you visualise what the track will be like. It looks like it will be a good track, lots of challenges and features. Lots of scenery work as well :)

 

I had a blind corner on my track, at first it really didn't worry me and I thought I would get used to it, but then after a while it got a little annoying so I rearranged the track to get rid of it.

 

cheers

David

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Hey DM,

 

Yeah I've been following your track as well and that drew my attention to this particular problem.

 

Many heads are so much better than one.

 

Thanks to all for everyones advice so far,

 

Would be interested to hear from anyone who has raced on a banked curve that you can hammer it on.

 

At the mo' the banked section is two radii, 750 at the top and 1100 toward the bottom, these are the banked radii not the flat.

The camber is 30 degrees.

 

Is that enough to hammer the cars around, I know Brent (hazefullstop) has one on his track (R=550mm, Camber=30 degrees) but haven't heard the results of it yet.

 

Here's the updated layout with altered proposed levels, no model with this one though.

 

2-lane-FINAL-B-Model_1.jpg

Edited by ZeGas

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Last banked curve I drove hard was the king style tracks at Hornsby and Parramatta in Sydney in the 1970's.

Big curve at Hornsby (IIRC) was close to 45 degrees, but had an inner radius of about 12'. (Say, bit over 2m).

I'm looking at at slight bank on my soon to be home track though -ore because it is a challenge for the driving style - get it right, and good and fast, get it wrong and your somewhere else in the room, not on track...

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Or alternatively I go down the plastic track route.

 

Benefits

1. Can buy in bits as I can afford.

2. Can try out various corners to see if they work before final build, worried that routed track will be final so if corners don't work I'm stuffed or have to fix section. Bearing n mind it was all going to be CNC routed.

3. Would be easier to take apart in the future if necessary.

4. No braid / copper tape to lay.

 

Downfalls

1.Can't have custom corner radii or steep banked curve.

2. Not as grippy as wood track (could paint track though I suppose, would be interested in hearing whether this would work).

 

Scalextric_Version.JPG

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Right, Decision made, I'm going with plastic this time, laying braid/copper for a third time has put me off.

 

Got the final design, this is it, no variations or alterations, none, nudda, neit.

 

Till next week.

 

Scalextric_Version-final.JPG

 

Have bought a sample of various track curves and borders, enough to try out some of the corners.

 

So have tried out corners 1 & 2 and that is a good start.

 

Also create a hybrid corner with the out of turn 4 and the in of turn 5 so it goes R3-R2-R1-R1-R2-R3 and have given it elevation up to 150mm. Man! ... this is a fun one so I am confident of the switchbacks, in fact can't wait for it to materialise.

 

Also tried out turns 7 & 8 to see how fast you can go round, not bad but WARNING - DO NOT put at end of long straight, early on I didn't have a breaking point and kept over running, never happens with tighter curves guess I'm more aware of them.

 

Turn 13 R4-R3-R2-R2-R3-R4 was also created and was a tricky little bugger to master but once sorted it is heaps of fun too, I think it is actually trickier than the hairpin corners.

 

Anyway that's the go for now, started cleaning out the shipping container and levelling it up a bit better last weekend, this weekend will be building a 6x3 shed so I can move more crap out of container and also will put the ROC digital track in there. Its been in storage for about a year now so will be interested to see how many mud wasp nests and spider webs are on it.

 

Then its just power, bench and track, that's when things will slow down again

 

Power - Not sure on mains or solar ATM will get prices I think and then decide, might just end up with a generator for now.

 

...

 

Chapter 2.

 

...

 

Nah ... just kidding.

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Looking good there Zegas...

 

The only change I would make would be to remove 1 full straight from before turn 11 and one from before turn 13.

This will reduce one overlap area making it a little easier to see...

 

3mm mdf is great for mounting scaley track on too...

Lay the track with borders on it, draw a line around it, and cut away...

 

Before I had and R3/R4's, my favourite corner was a R2 / R1 / R1 / R2.

The only thing better was when you made 2/3 of those, and followed 1 after the other in esses...

Don't forget that MJK's work really well on Scaley track too...

 

ps. I should build your track here before you do just to see how it goes...

lol.

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Hey SR,

 

The shorter track was in the plans but hey I love tunnels, will play around once I get all the track together and see what works for me.

 

Yeah I was always going to mount on 3mm MDF just not sure on securing it, I don't want to glue, and pins will not hold to the MDF it being so thin.

 

Damn, forgot to put the © on the image, oh well.

 

If you want to build it PM me and I'll send you the UR file, it would be good to get an opinion before its built.

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The scaley track mounting clips with a small nut/bolt would work well at securing it...

On mine, the track is just sitting free on the board though...

 

If I end up disassembling my track to go to my brothers any time soon, I'll probably build the esses section, and have a shorter straight into a hairpin for the rest...

Unfortunately for me, I don't have enough R4's to build it complete.

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Been trying out a couple of corners and found that if I take one R4 away from each of the two far right corners (7 & 8) and bring them back to 90 degrees I get a 40-45 degree bank.

 

Never thought it would work at all so tried various cars on it, really low ones. Slot.it Audi, Sideways Capri & my fave at the mo' the Black Arrow DBR9.

 

This is what the bank looks like

 

IMAG1101.jpg

 

And here is a vid of the DBR9 going round full tit at 10v, I crept up the voltage to 12v still good at full throttle and wasn't bad at 15v but the rest of the track was un-drivable, 9v-12v is best.

 

http://youtu.be/aQlwLLrpO9Q

Edited by ZeGas

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Looks like I'm going down the hybrid route.

 

Got bored in the weekend so knocked up a banked curve.

 

IMAG1102.jpg

 

Dunno how much will be routered but there will still be scaley track for the majority I think, well at this stage anyway.

 

This will have a difference in elevation of around 300-400mm but hey it seems to work. 45 degree angle and all.

 

The shape is very consistent even though the photo does appear to reflect this, just a dip at the entry and exit that I'll have to brace up.

 

IMAG1105.jpg

 

IMAG1104.jpg

 

I know its not the Slot Racer thing to have a banked curve but I am super curious on how well it works and if I can get full speed out of it. Might even put a barrier in between lanes we'll wait and see on that one.

 

Two reasons for banked curve - I want a long long straight and also that end of the track will be out of reach so want to minimise deslotting.

 

So I apologise to the hard core racers if I have offended them.

 

The hybrid track might make things interesting too.

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Nice job , But I think I've found an oxymoron ( no ,not a challenged wielder of a hot axe ) " a long long straight .....to minimise deslotting".

 

In my world, the longer the straight the more the exercise I can expect to do , but I haven't banked the corners quite as much. It's going to be fun and always worth the risk

 

regards digby

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Yeah Digby I see where your coming from but the banked curve is at the top of the esses so is in effect the start of the "straight" not the end.

So I'm hoping that the cars will be accelerating through this section before reaching top speed, the other end of the straight, the one to the left is where all the de-slotting will happen, this should be more accessible.

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Well I'm off again, designing that is.

Told you all it'd be a while before I started building and I'm glad I waited.

Dementia set in with the plastic track and the kids like making different tracks out of it so there is no way I'm going to be able to set up a permanent track with that.

Anyway I'm back to sanity and going back to routing.

Three lane 1:24 track 100mm lanes with 50mm inside except on hairpins (75mm) and 120mm on outside (thinking of 150mm maybe).

Total length each lane is 19m.

Going for KISS principle on this one, a few sweepers and a couple of tighties.

Still going to try big elevation difference around hairpin but will play with that when the time comes.

To fit in 6x3 shed, 600mm clearance for marshalling and the big sweeper end is at teh big door end of the shed so can open for easier marshalling if required.

Furthest reach is 1m so rainy day marshalling is still OK if they don't have a big fat head.

Box ends are each 600x600 drivers stations.

Start/Finish - I am thinking the short straight at the top before the long sweeper with direction running left (from left to right on the bridge section).

2-lane-FINAL-C-Model_1.jpg

What have I missed out.

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What's the footprint? 19m lap length? Makes me a little unsatisfied with the 17.6m laps that come out of the track that I've been working on through a gazillion permutations.

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Dementia set in with the plastic track and the kids like making different tracks out of it so there is no way I'm going to be able to set up a permanent track with that.

Ahhh... Plastic track doing what it does best...

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2-lane-FINAL-C-Model_1.jpg

 

 

Hi Zegas .... Finally found this thread.

 

Looks great ... and glad you scrapped earlier and went with this. This is pure race track. . I'm guessing the direction-of-travel is around the 3 metre curved sweeper and up onto the bridge.

 

Good idea to use the shed rather than the container. Only 2 metre width in the container.

 

Greg

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Hey Greg,

The original track was more for a scenic jaunt and a bit of fun, but yes this one will be for racing and testing.

 

After measuring the red lane at Hillcrest last night (350mm rad) and knowing how it drives I think I am a little ambitious with the hairpin, although a spiral curve it was 175mm radius at its tightest, a wood guide would get around but I think it might just be a destructive corner so have increased it to spiral with 250mm min radius.

Also the poor blue lane got all the nasty corners so smoothed out the corner at the end of the bridge and now the lanes are a bit more even.

2-lane-FINAL-C-Model_2.jpg

Now to set up a Charity to fund it.

I'm guessing you're volunteering for the electrical work, that's good of you mate. Nothing quite like being nominated huh.

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I love volunteers. I wish I could find more. :)

 

It's not my cup of double espresso, but I can imagine it good for head to head. Shame to see the 'not straight' disappear.

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....It's not my cup of double espresso....

 

Says the lady currently designing a race track herself. tut tut.

Its not dead totally I still got the banked curve there it is just on the back burner till I can be bothered building another shed. That could well be some time.

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