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neil

Routing A Single Lane Rally Track

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thinking about making a rally track..... & am asking on advice or past experiences,,

if............

........using a flexi or straight "guide" for router to follow...... is a definite ?

 

........or can good flowing track be acheived by routing freehand ?

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Free hand. Ive done two rally tracks and have started a third and all I have ever used is freehand. I dont see the point in using a guide as it doesn't have to line up with other lanes. Plus it would be much quicker. I usually sketch the layout on the board and rout away. I think you get a more natural feel to the layout.


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was the router easy to controll ?? .......with the dusty condition,, I can only imagine that you'd lose sight of the line/markings...... also,, with stopping & starting the router,,I noticed,, if not careful,, I left imperfections in the slot.... not that these had to be filled & they did not ruin the racing line,,,,,

 

secondly ..... did either of you use braid or tape??....(Thinking of tooling needed).... I was leaning towards the braid again,, but would be happy to keep the cost down with tape.... even the current track I have needs the braid to be clean from corrosion if not used regularly..... & thinking back to the first track I made, I don't remember having an problems in the few months that I had it.........

 

Think I think too much,,, gotta start building.

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connect a vacuum (old one or shop one) to the router to remove the dust, it is a challenge I guess it all depends on how big you are making it and the tightness of the curve my rally track is on a 900 x 600 board (pics on here somewhere)

 

I used tape too much fiddling with bits to use braid for what for me was a fun track.

 

DM

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DSCF7484_zpsb02c4897.jpg

 

I did all this freehand, it was fun.

I used tape, it was cheap.

Go for it.


A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain.

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My thought is do it once,do it properly. It may only be a rally track but if the car comes off let it be because of the driver not a poorly routed track. No matter how good you think you are with a router if there isn't a guide you will end up with some pretty ordinary edges!


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

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mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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My thought is do it once,do it properly. It may only be a rally track but if the car comes off let it be because of the driver not a poorly routed track. No matter how good you think you are with a router if there isn't a guide you will end up with some pretty ordinary edges!

 

Thanks a bloody lot Syd. ...... just when I was like getting all confident & comfortable with the idea of routing free hand....... you gotta go & post exactly what I was thinking before posting this thread....... you are right in what your saying though..... it'd be just my luck that I'd get near the end... rush & stuff it..........

 

Just like the bathroom when I first moved back in this house,,,,was pushed for time,,,, re-walled & trimings,, a little tiling & re painted it all.... come up a treat (in everyone elses eyes),,,, but every time I go in there for a sit ... I can see clear as day all the gaps & imperfections.... just makes it hard to relax

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Not strictly a rally track but I used a length of wood attached to the router, pivoting on a nail, to do constant radius corners, and then a scrap length of mdf, as a straight edge for the straights.

And I still ended up with some wobbly lines... :huh:

 

5d9j.jpg

 

Freehand would be brave IMO but the best thing I did - as others have suggested - is to have a big play on test piece of MDF....


They are only toys .... until you pull the trigger.

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Love that track...

It would make a great testing and tuning track.

The look of it is just perfect too...

 

The Mk1 golf running arround it aint half bad either...

So want to get another one so I can cut the roof off and make a convertible... (My real car)

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I have made a few tracks now but not hill climb tracks. I have used a 1/8 router bit which is about 3.2mm, you will need some 12mm mdf so you can get at least 9mm depth for wood guides. Not sure how we'll 12mm will bend it's pretty solid I suppose it depends on how steep you want it. Copper tape is the only way to go unless you make the Perfect layout and can justify the expense of braid and extra routing for the braid.

Good luck and best regards

TJ

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I think copper tape will be the go...............................(though do have a bit of used braid left,, but time consuming to lay).....

 

as for the mdf sheets I was thinking of the 9mm,,,,,,,not sure, but thought I've seen 3mm used on some tracks

Edited by neil

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Neil 9 mm MDF iscthecway to go for a rally/ Hillclimb track. 12mm is the best for road tracks but a bit too hard to bend for a rally track.

Anything thinner and you will route right thru it and need to brake it all. Bridges and jumps can be added after using thinner material.

Stigs May Park track was 12mm and we had a very hard time bending it. My current track is 9mm and the new one is also 9mm.

 


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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If you use 9mm mdf how deep would you rout the slot?

 

my track is mostly 12mm but used 9mm for the height transitions.....routed to 7mm, 9 mm held together fine

 

Thanks. I am about to revamp my track to have a rally section so this is all timely information..


Alan Stubbings

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Alan I routed mine to 6mm fine for most guides. Only ever had a problem with one car and that was fitted with a Sakatsu guide,same depth as a Parma guide.

I think the deepest guide any of the OzRally cars have is the Ninco Pro guide.,

 

 


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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