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Dremel???

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About a year ago I was forced to look into buying another dremel type tool,my old Dremel had given up the ghost and I was looking for alternatives,I succumbed to the Bunnings version,today I've come to the point where I've had enough and need to bite the bullet and get a "real" one,is Dremel the only quality alternative?

 

I use my "dremel" a lot so I need something which will take the constant use.

 

Any comments are welcome,oh, I would like to see where the best deal could be had as well.

 

Thanks for any help,

 

Terry

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I'm a firm believer in "You get what you pay for." Worth investing in a quality brand. Whether that is Dremel or one of the American brands like Microlux. Buy the best you can afford.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Embers right... I went from a Dremel I'd had for twenty years ( just went missing one day - had never stopped ) to a crappy tryhard one that only lasted 9 months. I've now got two Dremels and love them both for different reasons. My battery one ( model 1100 - 7.2 volt ) is the one I use 90% of the time for most car prep work and is so small it easily goes in my slotcase (without the charger). Its size and speed is also ideal for grinding plastic.. My other one, a base model 240 volt (model 3000) is the one I would use for cutting up brass and wire for some serious scratch building. The model 3000 actually doesnt seem as good as my old dremel... seems to have lots of revs but not much torque so is a bit of a " disc exploder". Maybe the more expensive Dremels have more torque so you can keep the revs down.

.

Edited by axman

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I have two new model dremels,neithervarecas god as my original old one that died about 12 years ago.

I brought two generic tool after the original died, only got about 12 month out of each. So bit the bullet and went back to the dremels.

I still have two cheapies that I used only for cutting and grinding resin bodies.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have the 3000 model and it does everything I want it to.

Make sure you have the flexi shaft.

There are lots of collets and burrs and discs for the dremel...all are useful in some way.

 

There is only one and you need only one.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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I bought the 3000 in last year's Christmas sales - got it for just under half price.

It's the absolute business, after putting uyp with cheap wannabees for years.

I bought the router guide for it to carve slots in foamex board (copious offcuts in work) and it deals admirably with the melted offcut.

 

Must get a flexi for it though.


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Flexi shaft and a chuck. Both worth the effort.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I went from a dremel with a chuck to the 3000 model with a collet.

Initially I was worried by the prospect of things not fitting. I needn't have.

 

It seems there are two main sizes for dremel bits and burrs. I bought another collet collection and I swap between the two.

It is a bit of a fiddle but not enough to worry about.

 

When I was in the US earlier this year I visited Walmart and bought some dremel stuff including a chuck for $US8.99 or there abouts, under $US10.00 anyway.

I haven't met a job where I needed to use it yet. I bought two as the price seemed so good. Mitre10 here are asking $NZ36.00 .


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Hi all.

 

My Dremel 3000 kit came with both colIet and chuck.

 

It was initially fitted with collet but I converted it to the chuck sometime ago.

 

It is so easy to change between sizes which I do frequently. Screwing in different collets would be a real hassle.

 

I would vote for chuck every time. If you do not have one they are readily available.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Good discussion this, thanks Phil and Charles.

 

Sometimes when I am trimming out a body, the size of the rotating parts is important in getting the right angle.

The chuck is bigger than the collet knurled head clamp.

 

This can also apply to the flexi handle vs. the dremel itself.

Edited by munter

John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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I've got to admit, I don't use the flexi shaft anywhere near as much as I expected to do. it's not as flexible as I am used to and could be longer. Even better would be to have speed control on the flexi head.

 

I use a lot of different sizes of drills and bits with my Dremel, so the chuck does make life much easier. But, I do use the collet as well. Only recently purchased the routing head. Expensive, as is everything with the Dremel brand on it, but I think it'll be useful for cutting slots in diorama bases. I was given the drill stand as a birthday present a while ago. Again, it could be improved upon, but it's handy for using the Dremel as a lathe to cut down wheels for inserts.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Hi all.

 

I never use the flexi shaft although included in my kit. Perhaps I have stronger or steadier wrists than you Ember despite RSS/OOS.

 

Have to admit I have caused damage occassionally to parts not intended when the revolving chuck or collet has touched something unintentionally.

 

Latest when I was removing something in my Ford RS200 - Fillers are a mavellous invention.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Hi again.

 

Hopefully this comes through OK but Trademe NZ currently has Dremel 4486 keyless thre jaw chuck for $20NZ.

 

Go to www.Trademe.co.nz

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

 

Dremel 4486 keyless chuckbrandNewItem.gifPayNowIcon.gif

Manukau City, Auckland, NZ

Closes on Wed, 25 Sep

Edited by charlesx

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Now we are humming.....thread drift alert.....damage caused by dremel action.

 

Shall I start?


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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i have a 90 watt black and decker rt550 (not sure if they still make em) i have been using for 10 years. the internal drive shaft (a heavy spring) broke after about 2 years, but i made another one (shaped out of an old bolt with my trusty old supatool).

it has a few more vibrations and not as many rpm's as a dremmel.

when this dies, i will definently be spending a bit extra on a good dremmel. i'll probably go dremmel brand because of all the attatchments available.


i hope all of your racing is enjoyed

slot on!

:)

 

www.slotcaraustralia.com

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I had a Ryobi then bought a dremel. Now wish I bought one of these http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/products/Precision-Drill%7B47%7DGrinder-FBS-240%7B47%7DE..html I might get one while this mob has them on special as the dremel has too much vibration, even at lower speeds!! If you need one you'll have to add more for the flexishaft which comes with the collet set (about $60.00) I find the collets better for concentricty than the chuck though the chuck is very handy and is what is on my dremel most of the time.

You get what you pay for. Proxxon is very good quality. The drill stand that suits the proxxon is very good too, Stubbo is happy with his!


"Me Auntie's a Jack !!!"

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well today my 23 year old variable speed dremel gave up the ghost. it has served me very well in all those years. I just bought a new Dremel 3000 for 97.00 from Bunnings, and just registered the warrany online. what different to my old dremel? the original had USA on it. this new one has 'Made in Mexico'. maybe wont get another 23 years out of this one but 13 will be nice!


Shed People Mutual Admiration Society

2 times Australian National Champion

1991-Flexicar 1999- Group 12 Sedan

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I just revived my dremel...

It had broken off a piece of copper in the switch assembly. Soldered on a new piece, re-shaped, and good as new.

 

What I really like about it is that it can go soooo slow...

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well my orig made in USA dremel, (was only used on metals) lasted 23 years. I bought a Made in Mexico version (mainly used on plastics) in 2013, and that failed last night. no warning, no funny noises, no funny smells. just stopped. there is plenty of brush left on both sides and commy looks clean. if I can find my bunnings receipt I could have got a full refund still. but based on the 23 year lifespan of the orig one I doubt I would have kept the box and receipt...... so if you got a made in mexico dremel, make sure you got your recept handy as they got 3 year warranty. just goes to show that if you are Mexican, and get served up a dodgy enchilada for breakfast, quality control not gonna be the best.


Shed People Mutual Admiration Society

2 times Australian National Champion

1991-Flexicar 1999- Group 12 Sedan

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I use the cheap Bunnings version (Ozito) of a Dremel.it doesn't go as slow, but I can manage that, and after 5 years the collet bearing has started to go so the bit is a little wobbly - I don't use it for drilling fine holes anymore...

Still, for $50 it is and was a pretty good tool.

 

Might be a viable alternative if your ok with replacing it more often..

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I bought myself a cordless dremel a while back and its brilliant. It sits in it's little charging cradle till I need it, and I can carry it anywhere in my workshop, or beyond, without worrying about cords.

 

Currently $145 at Bunnings


Cheers,

Garry J

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Hi John and Garry,

 

I am with you guys on Dremel. Have been using an original since 1978 and it is still going. Since bought two cordless ones, with an extra battery to share between them and keep the one permanently fitted with a 90 degree drive.

 

Absolutely one of the best tools in my workshop and no doubt outstanding quality.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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