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mattcrackers

My Repaints/Scratchbuilds/Restorations-By Mattcrackers

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I would love to find the old 1/24 Cox F1 cars - but unless they are an absolute bargain I have pretty much given up chasing the old cars - they either cost too much to start with or if you get one for a good price it is usually missing something and then it costs an arm and a leg to buy the replacement part. eg I need a swing arm for a 1/32 Cox Cheetah - I have found one for US$5 but he won't post and then I have found another for $US28 + US$25 postage - the car only cost me A$20 :)

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Yeah it's hard to sometimes completely rebuild a car.

 

Now that I've started playing with resin a bit some of the parts should be easier to make/copy.

 

That is as long as I have an original to copy.

 

Tyres are easy to make, windscreens a little harder, bodies I'm learning as I go.

 

Like you have said David, you can get the part for a few dollars but then postage is many times higher than what you paid for the car in the first place.

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If you've been following my restorations etc you will know I've been restoring cars for a mate for some time now.

 

Here's the latest restoration plus a replica which I am building using bits and pieces from the parts box at my disposal.

 

The rear is an original Mercedes 190sl from the James Bond set.

 

It just needed a little clean up and new bumpers plus the 'Baddie' was missing his hand/gun so needed a replacement.

 

As you can see by the pic I have made a resin replica of the Baddie, and another just to cut his arm/gun off for use on the original.

 

49412389411_9bba87c870_z_d.jpg

 

The white Mercedes 190sl is a body we had laying around which is from the same mold as the James Bond car. ie it has the piece molded into it for the rear spring but no slot in the body.

 

The red interior is from a James Bond Mercedes which had the rear end cut off and the whole body, interior painted in green, orange flames.

 

All the paint had to be removed from the interior and unfortunately the interior wasn't in that good a nick after this process either.

 

Here's the rear end with the slot cut out roughly for the spring.

 

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The sides/skirts of the replica needed some work to fix all the melted, missing sections.

 

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A little filler and some primer fixed these.

 

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A bit of black paint.

 

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And a little bit of paint to the driver and gunman and a new hand for the original.

 

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The interior has polished up quite well using a bit of Brasso on the plastic.

 

I'm awaiting for some new bumpers and lights from RUSC .

 

I've made the roll bar but it's not fitted in this pic.

 

Still need to touch up the paint on the figures but all in all I'm pretty happy with how it's come up.

 

I'll post some pics when they're both finished.

 

cheers

 

Matt

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Cheers fellas.

 

Had these for a while now so have had plenty of time.

 

Although I did only really start the replica last week.

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With all the time on my hands at the moment I've managed to partially finish a Mustang Supercar for racing at WASCRG when it resumes.

 

Here's the resin body mounted to a chassis.

 

49726050118_b69faf0c49_z_d.jpg

 

I primed the body with the cheap grey primer from Bunnings, I've used this on all my cars and had no problems whatsoever.

 

Followed by a coat of white paint, which I then cut the decals out and traced them onto the body to cover the white with masking tape.

 

I gave the car a coat of red then allowed to dry.

 

49726910987_b499c1e7c0_z_d.jpg

 

I then taped the car again and applied the black paint to the windows, sorry didn't get a pic of this stage.

 

After allowing the paint to dry I applied the decals the best I could with Pattos decals.

 

49726050223_dd59071540_z_d.jpg

 

Always amazed how many tiny holes and dodgy bits show up in the pics.

 

Still got to tidy it up a bit and apply the clear finish.

 

cheers

 

Matt

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Looking good Matt. Pity I had to cancel trip to Perth this year but that is life. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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They look great Matt, nice work!

Hopefully I'll see you at Syd's on Saturday

Edited by Shaynus
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On 4/2/2020 at 6:37 PM, mattcrackers said:

I primed the body with the cheap grey primer from Bunnings, I've used this on all my cars and had no problems whatsoever

Always amazed how many tiny holes and dodgy bits show up in the pics.

What brand is the primer you use?

I read a tip by another resin caster - he takes a couple of photos of his resins before undercoating and then before painting - the camera on the computer screen shows up things the eye misses. 

:)

DM

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Hi DM,

I usually use the Fiddly Bits grey primer from Bunnings but since doing the Nissan 3D printed body I have started using the Rustoleum Primer/Putty all in one.

It was hard to find the first can but since then Autobahn has been stocking it in the larger spray cans at $12.99.

After the usual cleaning of the resin body I've been giving them a coat with the Rustoleum Primer/Putty, sanding back and then applying another coat.

Great for filling any small holes etc and still works fine with the Squirts top coat paints I've been using.

Great tip on taking pics as you go, sure does show up any holes etc before doing the top coats.

cheers

Matt

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Here's another Nissan I've painted up, this time done in the Norton Livery  of Caruso.

Stuffed this paint job up a couple of times, left it alone, sanded, repainted, added the decals and gave it a clear coat.

50150631752_5fba374560_c_d.jpg

Amazing how much better the car looks when you give the paint time to dry, lol.

Matt

 

 

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Great stuff Matt. 

I'm new here as of tonight and I got stuck reading this entire thread. Your workmanship is fantastic.

You have inspired me to keep on with my new hobby. 

Well actually, I had slot cars as a kid and even had a grp20 womp womp with a lexan EH Holden body on it that I used to race at a track in Sydney's CBD.

I'm now interested in 60's, 70's and 80's Australian muscle cars but they seem to be very thin on the ground. 

Anyway, thanks for the time you put into this thread.

Cheers

Mark

 

 

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Hi Mark,

Thanks mate, and welcome to Auslot.

Love the Aussie muscle cars myself, Scalextric have released quite a few over the last few years now.

What with the XY,XW,XB,XC Falcons and the A9X and L34 Toranas, there's plenty to choose from, and of course the Supercars which seem to be selling for silly prices at the moment.

That is if you can get your hands on them, although they can still be found and quite cheap too.

I actually like the build process from start to finish, worked out that it's better to be patient than to rush.

cheers

Matt

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Thanks Matt

Yeah I know about the Scalex Falcons and Toranas but there are plenty of other Aussie cars I'd like to see from the 60's, 70's and 80's. 

I am and always have been a fan of the old production ( and Group C) rules that CAMS used to run before the Supercars era.

I used to build a lot of model cars way back when there were no spray paints for modelling! Spray paints and the like have made model building so much better and easier. I still have a few vintage kits to build when I hang up the boots.

Needles to say, I too like the build it yourself process but I am not clued up enough on CAD and 3D printing to attempt making masters using that process. I'm thinking of making clay "masters" like it used to be done but from what I have learned from the net, Airfix, Monogram, Revell and MPC model makers would spend up to 100 hours on a master before the molding process could take place. And being the stickler for detail that I am, I could see myself spending alot of time on each master as well. A one piece body wouldn't take as long but they seem to lose the detail that I like to have.

Maybe one day!

Cheers

Mark

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There are a few people here on the forum that produce resin bodies of old Aussie cars (EH, XU1, Monaro, Charger etc). Put a post in the Wanted section and see what pops up.

Cheers

Paul


May the downforce be with you.

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A couple of pics of some completed cars.

Got some of the tyre decals off Patto's just to finish them off.

50182913731_30b034f075_z_d.jpg

 

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Currently working on a Castrol Nissan.

Would really like to try Patto's waterslide decals but I'm a bit nervous when it comes to giving them a coat of clear.

Tried them a couple of times and have had the waterslide decals 'crinkle' from the clear coat.

I know there's a few what could be used, might get some and try my luck

cheers

Matt

 

 

 

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They look fantastic Matt, great work! B)

Going by other ebay sales,  there is about $3000 worth of cars in that post of yours! ;)

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Had a mate give me a 3D printed chassis.

He had printed the chassis, guide and wheels to try out.

Here's what I recieved.

50366477052_a9aae1768a_z_d.jpg

The chassis itself is printed with a swing arm/pivot point from just behind the motor.

The wheels on it in this pic are from the cheap Avant Slot chassis's from a few years back.

50365643958_0dc1458666_z_d.jpg

Not sure how well it will work, can always glue it in place to make the chassis stiffer.

Here's the chassis fitted to a Mustang Supercar.

50365643903_88e7fa288d_z_d.jpg

The wheels are printed so you can glue your own inserts etc to it to create the hub for the tyre.

Since I had some resin inserts I filed them down to fit and created wheels to suit the modern Supercars. (Sorry no pic at hand)

I also cut up a resin wing from another car (BA Falcon I think) and made a wing which more resembles the Mustang.

This is the prototype before being cast.

50365643798_5d3c3c1e68_z_d.jpg

And yeah, I painted the car up in the 2020 Shell McLaughlin livery.

50366317141_47cb58db0e_z_d.jpg

The 3D printed wheels were surprising true, although after I glued on the inserts to create the hub for the wheels I did true them on my tyre razor just to make sure.

How's it run?

Not sure yet, but will be taking it to Syd's track to give it a run, the 3D printed guide is to deep for my home Scalextric Sport layout.

cheers

Matt

 

 

 

Edited by mattcrackers
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