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mattcrackers

My Repaints/Scratchbuilds/Restorations-By Mattcrackers

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Nice builds - Given it's a Lotus, and although not the correct era, a JPS fantasy / tribute livery could look quite cool ?

Edited by Capri-corn7

They are only toys .... until you pull the trigger.

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Started a new chassis build on the weekend to fit a 1:24 Holden VE body I've had for a while.

I had searched the net for something that I would like to try and found a pic on another Scratchbuilding forum.

I stuck to the plan for most of the build except the side pans which I had to change to suit the body I was using.

I used a torch this time around instead of an iron as well.

 

Started with the motor bracket.

Used a flat strip of brass, bent it to shape and drilled the holes to suit.

 

36870563236_70fc10142f_n.jpg

 

Refined it a little.

Drilled some more holes to suit some of the other motors I had.

 

36251431573_3535e9e1d0_n.jpg

 

Made myself up a jig to help align the rails etc.

I will use NON-COMBUSTIBLE material next time, although it did last.

Started with the front and rear axles in place and went from there.

 

36224131984_fe52314acf_z.jpg

 

The next pic shows the chassis with a few rails soldered in place, and a test fit of some of the parts.

The outside rail is piano wire, had to learn how to solder this type of material as I had only ever soldered brass.

Still got to clean up that dirty solder some more.

 

36224127284_60c2b19a4c_o.jpg

 

 

 

I made up the drop arm section and test fitted the guide, fits quite well actually.

 

36251244193_152f1a1cb8_b.jpg

 

Since I was on a roll I decided to keep on building.

Added a couple of cross members to hold the side pans.

 

36917514531_80f7d881c4_o.jpg

 

Pretty happy with the chassis so far.

Except for that dirty solder, did I mention that yet.

 

36917519161_fd235bc7eb_o.jpg

 

This is the VE body I'll be using, here it's just sitting on top of the tyres before the pans were added.

 

36662047610_b4aed17895_b.jpg

 

Still a little more work to go on the chassis let alone the body.

I'll need to add some more wire to re-inforce the motor bracket to the rear.

Still need to finish of the drop arm.

Hopefully have the chassis fuly functional by Saturday for the WASCRG wind-up where I'll be able to give it a test run.

cheers for taking the time to have a look.

 

Matt

Edited by mattcrackers

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That is awesome work.

I love the retro look chassis.

 

Having become a Holden owner in the last year I have to say I like the VE too.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Cheers John.

 

I did toss up between the retro and more modern chassis.

 

Since I'm really a novice at scratchbuilding chassis's apart from the couple of simple Lotus 16's I've done,

 

I thought it was time to try something a little more challenging.

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Chassis Finished, I think.

 

 

36662022450_65653cf200_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

I'll post some pics up of the painted body when it's done.

 

cheers

 

Matt

Edited by mattcrackers

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Very nice. I reckon with a tumbler you'd have some fine art jewelery there ;) inspires me to get onto my Tasman build if i'm honest.

One question, why an rx motor?


My mum says I'm an excellent driver

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The tumblers do polish the brass up lovely don't they.

 

At one of the tracks we run at the owner of the track has made up a house class of 4 of the V8's with the RX-4H motors in them.

 

We had a few of these left over from the SCX Pro Nascar class which we replaced with the Ninco pink motors.

 

We gave them a run last Friday night and they were quite good, some tuning and they will be a lot better.

 

The chassis above currently has the NSR Spanish King motor in it, I'll hopefully try a few different motors etc over time until I'm happy with one.

 

Looking forward to giving it a run on Saturday night to see how it handles.

 

cheers

 

Matt

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Nice work Matt, looks a treat!

 

Tumbler certainly cleans them up eh, be interested to know what media your using?


"Me Auntie's a Jack !!!"

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Cheers.

 

I've used 2mm brass and 2mm piano wire for the rails.

Drop arm is made from brass strip, 1.63mm x 19.05mm (.064 x 3/4)

Guide holder brass tube is 5.56mm x .355

Drop arm 'hinge' is 1/8 (3.18mm) brass tube with 2.38mm piano wire inside.

Rear axle brass tube is 7mm brass tube to suit the 6mm x 3mm oilites and 3mm axle.

Front axle tube is 5/32 (3.96mm) to suit the 3mm axle.

Side pans were made from brass strip, 1mm x 12mm.

Motor bracket is made from the same brass strip as the drop arm and cut down to suit.

 

Had the chance to give it a run last night at Syd's track here in WA.

It ran surprisingly well, but with a little tuning it will be a nice runner.

The SCX RX-4H motor had plenty of power to it and the track was only set at 10.5v to suit other cars.

 

cheers

 

Matt

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Thanks Kevin.

 

With the beautiful weather here in Fremantle yesterday I managed to get some paint on the car.

 

A coat of primer followed by some gloss black.

 

36870543936_3d097b57cb_o.jpg36870544186_307e76ee8d_o.jpg

 

I was thinking of applying the clear coat before applying the peel and stick decals which are on their way from Patto's, any thoughts?.

 

This is the blue windows that came with the model to hide the interior, well no interior just like Scaley's V8's.

 

36870544396_f91ec608c0_o.jpg

 

I'm hoping to vac-form some nice clear windows once I've had a go at making the vac-form unit.

 

Still plenty to go on this one but I am enjoying the build.

 

cheers

 

Matt

Edited by mattcrackers

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A little more work on the VE.

 

Here's a pic of the painted body on the chassis.

 

Still a work in progress.

 

36870543776_37cd897ffe_b.jpg

 

I thought I'd have a crack at the vac-forming.

 

Trial number 1.

 

I made a small box from what I had laying around, A4 size to suit the plastic I purchased (thanks Munter for the help).

 

I used some clay to give the windows some support.

 

36870543616_607c9f7e33.jpg

 

I heated up the plastic in its frame in the oven.

 

The plastic seemed to form air-bubbles in it while I was waiting for it to 'sag'.

 

Did I not leave the plastic in the oven long enough, any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Here's a pic of the frame over the mould.

 

36870542856_790481b513.jpg

 

And my 1st try at vac-forming. Trial windows cut to shape.

 

 

36223910724_0799cfaa18_o.jpg

 

Apart from a couple of small air-bubbles I am quite happy with the result.

 

Does it fit the body, I'll let you know later.

 

cheers

 

Matt

Edited by mattcrackers

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What material are you trying to vac form? Lexan is the hardest material to form. PVC and Styrene the easiest.

The bubbles are either moisture on the plastic or just too much heat in one spot.

The Windows will be a little large for the body, but if you fit them individually it will be no real problem


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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Hi Phil,

 

I purchased a pack of binder covers, 200 micron PVC.

 

The plastic had no moisture at all on it but it may have been that the oven wasn't preheated.

 

Well, I thought it was on but I had the light on but no one was home lol.

 

I do understand that the windows will be larger than the originals,

 

I might make a mold to work around this, or cut them to fit individually as you have said.

 

thanks for the input.

 

Matt

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Nice work...

 

I dont use the oven I wave my frame over the top of a hotplate and that way I can judge the sag factor.

 

Those bubbles are probably too much heat, too soon in that area.

 

I wouldnt worry too much on the size thing...200 microns here, another 200 microns there however I would agree with Phil on fitting them individually...use canopy glue 560.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Cheers John,

 

When you say hotplate is that gas or electric?

 

The bubbles did come up quite early in the heating process although I think that being my first try I may have overheated the plastic waiting for the sag.

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When you say hotplate is that gas or electric?
electric

John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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cheers fellas.

 

I cut the pieces individually last night and test fitted them to the body, they all fit well.

 

I reckon I'll need to vac-form another one as it's pretty much only 2 of the windows which have the bubbles that can be seen.

 

I'll update when I have progressed some more.

 

Matt

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Okay.. Noddy alert.

 

It took a while but once I'd done the 2nd trial I worked out why I was getting the air bubbles.

 

The 2nd lot came up near on perfect, nice lines and clear windows.

 

Compared it to the first trial, hang on a minute why does the 1st lot feel thicker?

 

Checked the off cuts in the shed bin and problem solved,

 

I'd used 2 sheets of the PVC.....

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Hi all,

 

Here's an update on where I'm at with the VE.

 

I've made up some inserts using the resin/plastic wheels from the original R/C car.

 

Before.

 

36223910354_1c79b2588f_o.jpg

 

and after..

 

36223910214_1f43dc9b40_o.jpg

 

I installed the windows individually using the 560 Canopy Glue, great stuff, cheers John.

 

I painted the inserts with an Aluminium paint and added most of the decals.

 

Here's where the car is at the moment.

 

36223909484_374a771a6f_o.jpg

 

pic from the top

 

36662016230_8b99801fa9_o.jpg

 

pic from the front.

 

36223909204_f24c9ca2b5.jpg

 

Still more work to be done to finish the VE.

 

I'm not sure if I'll add the interior as I do like it that you can see the brass chassis through the windows.

 

cheers

 

Matt

Edited by mattcrackers

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Hi Matt,

 

Firstly, It's looking awesome, keep up the good work...

 

Secondly, where did you get the shell from?

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