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mattcrackers

My Repaints/Scratchbuilds/Restorations-By Mattcrackers

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This is an Atlas Brabham I was given by a mate at WASCRG to see if I can restore it.

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As you can see by the pic it's missing the screen, probably has the incorrect wheels, exhausts have snapped off and the mirrors are also missing.

The exhausts will be a simple fix and I have plenty of wheels on hand to replace with something more correct.

What I do need help with from the friendly folk on the forum is finding a replacement screen.

I received 2 of these and another Atlas Ferrari which I restored earlier in the thread.

The parts for the Ferrari I can copy using resin from the originals.

Any help or pointing me in the right direction will be much appreciated.

cheers

Matt

 

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I don't think I'll be much help with the Atlas parts, but fantastic work with the Milwaukee Mustang!

How did that printed chassis from a few posts back perform?

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On 25/07/2020 at 5:15 PM, mattcrackers said:

Here's another Nissan I've painted up, this time done in the Norton Livery  of Caruso.

Stuffed this paint job up a couple of times, left it alone, sanded, repainted, added the decals and gave it a clear coat.

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Amazing how much better the car looks when you give the paint time to dry, lol.

Matt

 

 

@mattcrackers are you just using the floor finish or the floor finish anew then clear? Fantastic work mate.

 

Edited by Oldskool62

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G'day Shayne,

Haven't given the car/chassis a run yet, taken it a few times, still really need to give it a run to see if it's worthwhile using the other couple of chassis's the mate made up for me.

 

Oldskool62/Warren,

I usually prime the resin bodies, then white undercoat followed by the top colour, sanding lightly between coats. Find the white undercoat brings out the top colour better then just over the grey primer. I then allow the paint to dry for a few days/week, apply the decals and then use a Clear Gloss applied in 2 coats. The painted body is then left covered (usually a Carrera display case lid) in the drying oven (being my shed which gets ridiculously hot in Summer). I use the Squirts Clear Gloss from Bunnings, seems to hold up quite well for racing. Using the peel and stick decals from Pattos the clear gloss helps make the decals blend in a bit more rather than looking like stickers. Tried the waterslide decals a couple of times now but I think I'll stick to what I know and what's easier.

cheers

 

Matt

Edited by mattcrackers
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Back in March 2020 I asked a question here on the Forum about what Chassis's, bodies I had in the photos for doing some future restorations etc.

Thanks to Big Den, he  and others help to identify this car as a Marusan Ferrari 156 Sharknose.

49624532378_1eed0a7262_c_d.jpg

The car was missing a few bits and pieces. Driver, shocks, front nose chrome parts, tyres, roll bar, exhausts etc.

I stripped it back to the bare body shell and gave it a coat of grey primer.

51379545509_d3db48ee01_z_d.jpg

Test fitted it again to the chassis before painting.

Here it is sitting on the chassis with some home-made tyres, with the black spacers that were fitted to the chassis originally.

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I made a mold up and copied the missing shock, found a driver figure in the spares box, gave him a paint.

The front nose of the original car had 2 chrome insert that were non-existent, so I filled these and re-primed the car.

I had looked at a few pics on the net to see what the real Ferrari 156 was like. Would look fine without the chrome inserts i thought.

I bent up a new roll bar from brass to suit something like the original/real car, gave it a paint with the Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen.

Made up the exhausts from some scrap in the spare parts box, gave them a coat of black.

Inserts were made from some old wheels that were in the spares box, sanded down to fit and chromed.

I painted the car with my usual Ferrrai red, $8 spray can from Bunnings, put a few decals on and refitted all the parts.

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I had a problem with the clearance from the chrome parts over the black plastic spacers on the front and rear axles, body just wouldn't sit right.

I removed the black spacers and replaced them with some brass tube, cut to length.

I touched up any missing chrome with the chrome pen to finish off the Ferrari.

Also replaced the tyres I was going to originally use with some others I had made a few years back.

Think they finish the car off a bit better.

Thanks to those in the know for their help.

Can't complete a build if you don't know what it is.

cheers

Matt

 

 

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Cheers Fellas.

Working on another Ferrari at the moment, an Atlas 158.

Only missing a screen but I'll copy the original off the one I did a while back.

Must of known I'd do another as I didn't glue the screen on the other 158, probably forgot to actually.

I'll post a pic once it's done.

I actually find it easier, and more pleasing,  working on the older cars than some of the modern ones.

 

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3 hours ago, mattcrackers said:

Cheers Fellas.

Working on another Ferrari at the moment, an Atlas 158.

Only missing a screen but I'll copy the original off the one I did a while back.

Must of known I'd do another as I didn't glue the screen on the other 158, probably forgot to actually.

I'll post a pic once it's done.

I actually find it easier, and more pleasing,  working on the older cars than some of the modern ones.

 

@mattcrackersI think it's good to work on things that are a little different. 

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A quick build using a busted up Tamiya Lotus 30 body.

I was given this body from a mate who gives me cars to restore/rebuild.

I did restore one a while back, seen earlier in this thread to resemble the Tamiya Lotus 30 box.

The body was cracked, broken in a few places with the right hand side and front nose of the body snapped away.

Seen here in the pic below with the new panels glued in place and shaped to suit.

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I had one of those cheap Avant Slot chassis from a while back that I cut in half, glued, strengthened and reassembled.

Had some old Fly wheels that had been sitting in their packets for years so used these as well.

After I stripped all the green paint back, gave it a prime, coat of red (didn't want to do the Lotus green again) and applied some decals I had laying around.

Windscreen was leftover from when Phil K sent me some for the other Tamiya Lotus 30.

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Not period correct or anything but had seen a pic on the net of something similar.

Fitted with the Avant Slot chassis and original 27000RPM motor that these chassis came with it runs really well whether on the plastic or timber tracks.

Pretty happy with it as it was a $0 build, but fun to do, all made from stuff tucked away in boxes.

cheers

Matt

 

 

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9 hours ago, kalbfellp said:

I am pretty sure a Frank Gardner race a red with white Lotus 40 in the UK.

Lotus 30

all_color_book_of_racing_cars-p52-willment_30-color-car_nr_17-500w.jpg-nggid011-ngg0dyn-0x360-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.jpg.ecee2cb8f4ed582144f808e82bc4d055.jpg


Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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No 17, only off by one number, haha.

The only red one I had seen was another slot car.

Here's a pic of the modified chassis, have seen one modified before here on Auslot.

51498878786_3b2ed2059c_c_d.jpg

I used piano wire to strengthen the two halves of the chassis, with some Aruldite to keep it all in place.

Removed the front stub axles and the outside axle holders to make room for the Fly wheels.

And just a quick photo of the unmodified chassis against the modified one.

51498086822_2e1585882d_c_d.jpg

 

Glad I've finally modified one of these chassis actually, had them for a few years now but wouldn't cut one in half.

Now I'm confident doing the mod I've got 4 more I can cut up to suit other bodies.

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G'day Matt,

Here's one for you.

Just saw a Marusan 1:24 Cooper on Ebay, with the Atlas-type 'open frame' motor.

A real steal at $329.

Wish he had two!!

Den

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