Vinno Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Scorpius Wireless Controller and Analogue Module It was five and a half years ago that the Slot.it SCP 1 hand control hit the market. At the time it was eagerly awaited by many home track racers of 1/32 scale slot cars. To this day it is one of the more popular controllers in the group I race in. It’s only real downfall was the small fuse used to protect the electronic circuitry in the controller. For me it was the perfect controller with it’s smooth throttle action and plethora of adjustment knobs for braking throttle sensitivity amongst other things. But I had always planned to have a second controller for those times when the fuse blew in the middle of a race and just to have a spare. I have known Rick Field for a number of years and he was working away on his digital controller. There were a few of us who over the years had mentioned how much we would like it if he manufactured a controller for all of us backward people who persisted with analogue racing preferring to concentrate on our cars instead. I remember Jim from Armchair Racer saying how much he would like to see Rick go down this track as well. I am surprised at Rick's persistence with the project as I know how much time and effort he has put into developing his product. It isn’t new news now but Rick finally did it and we have been able to buy Rick’s analogue module with the digital controller for a number of months. I have been using one for approximately 2 months and I can say I am impressed. The below picture is of the Controller, Module and Dongle for uploading new throttle curves. The casing is the same as used in the Professor Motor Controller so is robust and familiar. The trigger is nylon and quite strong with a nice smooth feel only an electronic controller can have. One face has the digital display and the other side has the knobs for Throttle Sensitivity, Braking Resistance and the Menu dial which is used to access the different modes on the display. The trigger can be adjusted for tension by moving the post or if it is still not enough a replacement spring will cover it. When the throttle is set up it is nice to see it can be personalised with your name on the display which is handy when there is a few of them being used and they get inadvertently picked up by the wrong person. The display shows your brake resistance as a percentage and your throttle curve you have selected out of the 10 you can have saved to the controller at one time. All you need to do is adjust the dial to pick your setting. When it comes to your throttle setting it is probably best to let them know what you generally race or drive so you can have some throttle curves added that will suit. Either that or if you are technically minded you can buy the dongle and write your own curves. This is handy as it is nice to be able to have a varied range for the different powered cars out there. Being able to do this reduces the number of dials required on the controller. I can’t count the number of times I have showed someone how to set the minimum speed on their Slot.it Controller or explained to them why you would want to use it. The braking control is a simple resistance change in percentage the same as using a braking pot on a Difalco controller. So once set up it is really a simple to use controller with a nice range of adjustment. The buttons on the top of the controller when using the analogue module are as follows. The front LC button turns the controller on after holding it down a couple of seconds. If you don’t touch the trigger for two minutes the controller will turn itself off. It is always good to remember to double check when the start lights are counting down. It is also a Lane Change button when used as a digital controller. The middle button gives you access to the menu which you can then scroll through to select whatever you may want to adjust. One important thing you will need to know if there are others Scorpius Controllers in use is the channel you are using as you don’t want another controller on the same channel when you start a heat. You will need to change it through the menu with the analogue module plugged in to the power base. The end button is the brake which basically locks the car up the same as in a Slot.it Controller. This is probably more important when racing digital but could also be useful when fuel stop racing and you need to stop over a sensor. The throttle has two triple A batteries which power the throttle for communication with the analogue module. It would be a good idea to change these every few months if the throttle sees regular use a few times a week. Anyway how does it feel? I have used it now at Penrith Slotcar Centre racing NASCARS on their 8 lane Tri Oval with a couple of wins and places and I find no difference to it over the Slot.it except for two things. 1. When it is a little squeezy with 8 of us lined up racing you can move away from the normal position. It isn’t that simple though as it can change your perspective of the track for the worst unless you have done this before. It is easy to miss braking points at first. But no more big guts blocking your view of the corner as you follow your car down the straight. 2. No more blown fuses as the Scorpius can handle 30 Amps. Commercial tracks tend to get a flogging so every time a strand of braid shorts across from positive to negative or visa verse pop goes the old Slot.it fuse. I have also tried out everything from NC1 Classics to Slot.it Red Cans to Scale Auto Boxer Motors and there is a setting for all and they are all drivable. And you can use them on 1/24 scale cars too with the correct curve installed via the dongle. I do still like my Slot.it controller, it has a familiar feel like a comfortable shoe but the Scorpius is a bit more suitable for me on a commercial track. So if you are in the market for a new controller consider a Scorpius and you will also be supporting a locally owned company. Many of the retailer sell them of you can go to his website via the link on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsmsoccer Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Excellent write up thanks vince Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiery1 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 that is a great write up and sealed the deal for me. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 can you tell me .......... unlike the Slotit controller where it doesn't work well below 10v.... Will the Scorpius still work with track power @ around 6v or is this acheived through the programed curves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Do they make a version with the control knobs on the other side? I like to adjust the brake during races at times. Or can the button on top do that? Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinno Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Hi Neil and Phil Might need to wait for Rick to reply, I am in Fiji at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axman Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the write up Vince.. Obviously a lot of development time has gone into the Scorpius wireless and I must commend Rick on his commitment to seeing the project from inception to product on the shelf. As for the control knobs they are in the prefect place for us "lefties" so don't see any problem at all! Edited September 4, 2013 by axman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangermouse Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Neil you can set a training mode where you reduce the power by a percentage I haven't played with it yet I just ran my track at the lowest setting I could on the power supply I would guess around 6-6.5v as my voltage readout doesn't show less than 7v and the controller worked fine. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussieslotter Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 It's true you can adjust the voltage without even touching the power supply. Just go into the menu, select Learner Mode and select a percentage. If your power supply is set to 10v and you select 60% then you will have 6V at the motor. With left and right handers there was no easy choice, if you put knobs one your preferred side the screen is then on the in preferred side and vice versa. Rick Quote 3 stooges, 2 apologists and 1 deep endless mess. www.scorpiuswireless.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 (edited) Rick does that ran that the screen and adjustments can be changed side to side,when ordering? Don't wont go look at te screen when driving but will probably need to adjust the brakes while driving. Edited September 4, 2013 by kalbfellp Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussieslotter Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 (edited) It could be done but would mean redesigning the PCB, at great expense, so no it cant be swapped around when ordering. For right handers its easier on the wrist, try it. Edited September 4, 2013 by aussieslotter Quote 3 stooges, 2 apologists and 1 deep endless mess. www.scorpiuswireless.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Rick I would love to just send one down for me to test run! LOL Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axman Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Ditto... hav'nt seen one up here in Qld on the scale tracks yet... wink wink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jazzbell Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Guys I'm using one here in Adelaide and I'm getting things sorted now. Love the know weight of the controller. Plenty still to learn as the functions are endless. Regards shane a Team thunderbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miveson Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Can anyone advise the correct wiring for use on Armchair track? I've got blue, green and brown wires but can't seem to get it to work correctly. Any help greatly appreciated. On both my attempts to try the power supply has signified a wiring issue. Quote Slot Car Photos V8 Tipping Competition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32coupe Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 OK armchair tracks are positive polarity, your controler will have 3 wires, and your plug will have 3 terminals. Armchair use common australian electrical plugs reversed, so that the track plug has the male plug. At the track plug the middle pin is wired to the trigger and the lane +, the left pin to the resistor and power +, the right pin to the brakes and track -. I hope that helps Andrew Quote A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camber Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Jason Brooks has one of these controllers if you're not sure. Quote Hoo Roo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooksy Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Hi Andrew, Rick has given me one to try up at Armchair lately. To my knowledge the track is positively wired as the same with other commercial tracks such as Hornsby, Penrith and Dapto. Not 100% sure on the correct wiring for the Wireless module as it has worked straight out of the packet. I'll have a look at it tonight for you all. Regards, Jason Quote Brooksy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miveson Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 That'd be great Jason - just need to know what colours go where. Quote Slot Car Photos V8 Tipping Competition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32coupe Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 I have Scorpius controller and module and they are wired the same way as Armchair out of the box. I didn't have to change a thing. Quote A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussieslotter Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 (edited) Edited October 22, 2013 by aussieslotter Quote 3 stooges, 2 apologists and 1 deep endless mess. www.scorpiuswireless.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miveson Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 At the track plug the middle pin is wired to the trigger and the lane +The left pin to the resistor and power + The right pin to the brakes and track - Can you add colour codes to your description based on Rick's diagram? Also you don't state if you are looking at the plug or not (makes a difference) The track I run on has identical wiring to Armchair so if anyone could advise on the right combination? My WAM didn't come pre-wired - I thought I had the wiring spot on but it didn't work.... I'm terrible with a multimeter which would tell me without doubt what the correct combination but after attaching the red/black leads to the driver station it gave very strange readings that meant I couldn't work out what is positive/negative...... All I need is someone to tell me what colour goes to centre, right and left. I've got some racing to do next weekend. Mark Quote Slot Car Photos V8 Tipping Competition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow_rusty Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 OK armchair tracks are positive polarity, your controler will have 3 wires, and your plug will have 3 terminals. Armchair use common australian electrical plugs reversed, so that the track plug has the male plug. At the track plug the middle pin is wired to the trigger and the lane +, the left pin to the resistor and power +, the right pin to the brakes and track -. I hope that helps Andrew Based on this, Middle is Brown, Left is Blue and Right is Green... Quote Stolen from SlotsNZ Team ABC Team Leader (Ambitious, But Crap) Home Track Threads - Shadow's Semi-Permanent Layout & Another Rug Racer & Proud of It & Gymkhana Test Track Car Collection Thread - My Car Collection Charts / Diagrams - MJK Tyre Selector / Slot.it 4wd Gearing / PoliCar Rollout / Rollout Chart Generator / SCX 4wd Rollout / Track Wiring with Brake on Track Call Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32coupe Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Looking down At the track plug the middle pin is wired to the trigger and the lane + Brown The left pin to the resistor and power + Blue The right pin to the brakes and track - Green Quote A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miveson Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Thanks you very much Shadow and 32Coupe - very much appreciated. I'll wire that way and try it out next Saturday at the track. If I had a track at home it'd be sorted in minutes. Quote Slot Car Photos V8 Tipping Competition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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