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Hope you do not mind me opening this thread Phil.

 

Will certainly report progress with my Historic Ford RS200 here. Hopefully others will too.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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My Scaley RS200 has currently been modified to use a SCX guide with the motor wire soldered directly to the braids.

I'm currently considering adding some 'chicken legs' to give the guide some spring, and to make it easier to solder the motor wires.

 

Trying to work out if replacing the windows with 'overhead transparencies' will give me any real gains.

Also waiting on some MJK's to give it some rear end grip.

 

Lastly, still trying to work out gearing, and which motor to use...

The BWA 15k is really friendly to drive, but is lacking a little top end.

The Scaley '18k' is probably a little better, but seems to be a bit 'punchy'... i.e. Nothing, Nothing, Snap there goes the power...

I don't really have many other options... Slot-It 21k, AutoArt 24k, Revell 20k.

I think the Ninco 'Sparker' 18k could be a good option, but it won't fit properly in the motor mount, and may not be a good option in the long run...

Once I decide on the motor, then it's onto the gearing...

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My trusty Teamslot Alpine is ready to go, with a Ninco repower. The boys have a choice of a Fly Lancia 037 or a MSC RS200 with a NC2 depending which one tests up the best. BRK

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Hi all.

 

My WRC Ninco Subaru of last two years awaits new tyres from Perth as ground clearance is marginal. I also have some checking and possibly minor tweaks to work through. Otherwise pretty much as last year but hopefully more reliable.

 

Scaly Ford RS200 for historic class is in similar situation to yours Shadow-rusty. Tyres on way from Perth. Have had major disappointment with motor however. Seller has advised despite advertising for months that he cannot find motor I have already bought on Trademe. He has offered refund. Have told him to hold off in case he finds. Other alternatives include those you outlined S-R but this could depends on answer to question I have just sent to Phil.

 

Looking to use MJK tyres on rear and probably leave originals on front. Have tried standard Slot-it rear axle, gear, wheels and tyres. Think I can fit them in but may have to sand sidewall of tyres. Other option is to retain Scaly rearend in total with alternative tyres. I would like to do that if I can as my preference is to always retain original.

 

Other tyre option might be Slot-it F22's or N22's. Can anybody comment on suitability of same please.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

(Charlesx)

New Plymouth, NZ

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Stick with the MJK's, the 22's wont last the distance, nor will you have enough "warm up" time to get the tyres up to their sticky best before race time


Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Thanks very much Gazza. Sounds like good advice. Certainly very happy with my MJK's last year. Syd in Perth has some in air for me.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Hi all and in particular Shadow-Rusty and Branco who are building similar entries.

 

Still trying to finish my VRAA car (1962 Cooper Climax T60 No. 6) but have been doing some work on Historic Rally car (Ford RS200) in meantime including a lot of thinking - hopefully productive.

 

My MJK tyres arrived during the week. Found these were not a very good fit on Scaly wheels. Probably as standard wheels are not very wide. Have now decided to fit Slotting Plus 16.9mm x 8mm ali wheels all round as I had these on hand. Tyres fit perfectly. Have not glued and trued yet and will probably give a run first. Fitting Slot-it axles and spur gear (Scaly one to big - too little clearance) but still to decide on ratio.

 

Have bored out front axle holders and added axle tube. Also eased rear bearing hangers slightly to fit oilite bearings. This appears to give car adequate ground clearance - JUST. Had intended to lower body slightly but I do not think this is possible if I want to allow a bit of body float.

 

Have tried Ninco sprung guide but this is still a work in progress. Still not decided on motor but looking like Scaly.

 

Will post some progress photos soon. How are your projects going?

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

Edited by charlesx

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Hi Phil, Miveson and the rest.

 

OK so sanding the bottom of the chassis is allowed. I know some people have done this in past but this has made same clear.

 

Agree Ninco NC5 is far too long. Could fit as anglewinder but I am not allowed to change motor orientation as far as I am aware. NC5 is approx. 9-10mm longer than Scaly.

 

I have an NC5 in my Subaru (original supplied motor) although was told too powerful. Clearly the view has changed. Possibly because cars have improved handling wise they can handle the extra power.

 

Think I will stick to Scaly motor. After all it is only a Scaly car and therefore has no hope of being competitive anyway. Remember Shadow - Rusty, Branco and I are racing for bottom place.

 

Time will tell.

 

Go the Kiwis in America's Cup tomorrow.

 

Chas Le Breton

Kiwi Battler

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In theory any motor, if geared right, should be suitable. There is not a huge difference in the rpm specs on the NC5 and NC2, the real difference lies in the torque figures. The 5 is much more torquey.

 

If I was to build my Quattro to emulate the real thing I'd probably need to be using an NSR 40k King or something equally hideous. But I'm not sure that the gear ratio exists to let that baby run comfortably on a tight and twisty rally track.

 

Given that the majority of rally tracks are run at 12v or under Chas, the NC5 is a fine motor. It is possible I may be using one this year. Still undecided.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Thanks for support Ember. That is partly why I decided to stick with NC5 originally in my Subaru although I do like to use original equipment where possible and allowed by rules.

 

For new Ford RS200 however I was loathe to spend $38 when $10 or original motor might do the job. Ninco motors are very expensive. If change to angle winder had been allowed I might have gone to Slot-it motor I already have on hand. Well used but one of the early flat 6's 20500RPM versions. They have lots of torque too although fairly heavy. As I will adding weight however latter not a concern.

 

My main concern is to produce a car that is easily driven. Something I often fail to do. I personally see a spritely car as a challenge but not the most desirable for proxy event. Trouble I had in recent Canam Proxy where car could put up really good qualifying time but could not sustain in event proper is typical. I also tend to drive with controller at maximum choke all the time so that probably does not help when car experienced by others. Perhaps I should change my controller settings.

 

Looking forward to that first round and seeing how your car goes with 40k NSR motor - come on give it a go.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Looking forward to that first round and seeing how your car goes with 40k NSR motor - come on give it a go.

rofl_hard_smiley.gif

I'm neither brave enough not a good enough builder to pull that off Chas. Though, I think there's probably a few around here that could get away with it.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Boss 302 recently cleaned us all up with his Metro on the Bat Florio Hillclimb,basicly a standard car with weight added.

Some of the Scale Auto or SRP motors are good value and offer some great alternatives to Scalex motors.

The NC5 is bit powerful and needs a very well setup car to make it easy to drive.

Drivability is what Proxy racing is all about.

Look at the SCX cars in the WRC some of the cars are having 10 to 12 offs per stage!


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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Hi Ember and Phil.

 

Agree with all your points but sometimes you just have to try something different. Part of reason for using Scalextric car is everybody says they are useless. If I am last then you can all say "I asked for it". Either way I am having fun trying and that is where it is at for me anyway.

 

Bring it on.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Hi all.

 

Here is my car in standard trim in case you do not know what a Scaly car looks like. More to come soon.

 

FordRS200_zps979f4444.jpg

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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9692854680_7551404522_c.jpg

 

Ive used this proxy as a reason to modify a few of my Group B cars which have remained stock since I brought them, MSC Ford, Fly Porsche 911s and Ninco 037. They will all have Mjk's and and pretty close to NC2 motors (none of them are actually have an NC2 though). Because some idiot thought it would be a good idea to put in an axle that was 0.1mm wider than everything else, i've had to order some new bits and scab parts off some other cars to complete the builds. Once the parts arrive I can finish the Porsche and they can hit the track. I intend on running the Porsche in the proxy but I thought the other two would be good to compare to as all 3 will most likely be popular choices.


Some slot (and MTB) vids NOW SHOWING

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Nice looking cars Ben M.

 

Will be good to see how they go against each other if you get to test them all.

 

On my progress thought I was going to get my Ford RS200 going tomorrow but managed to get one of rear bearings out of alignment so have had to start again.

 

Other parts are going well however with all wheels, axles, motor and gears good to go. Have stayed with Scaly motor although have not even run in yet. Gears are

Slot-it 34T spur coupled with 10T BWA pinion. Hoping this will calm car down a bit but it could have reverse effect. We will see how testing goes.

 

Any suggestions most welcome.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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I spent far too much money on cars lately so couldn't warrant buying a new car for this years Ozrally. My entry is an SCX Sierra powered by RX42B, boots are by MJK.

 

DSC00319_zps1e93d8c9.jpg


2019 NZ RTR Nationals Gt 3rd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals NSR Classic 2nd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals Group C 3rd

2017 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 NSR Classic Challenge 2nd

2014 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 Garden City Invitation Overall Champion

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Looks great Branco. Presume that is instead of originally planned Ford RS200.

 

Make sure you get your tyres perfectly round. Good luck with event.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Hi all.

 

Finally finished my VRAA car today so it now full steam ahead with Scaly Ford RS200 historic entry.

 

Have installed motor, bearings, 16.9 x 8mm Slotting Plus Ali wheels and MJK 4219 tyres. Latter still to be glued and trued.

 

Have started work on chassis. Ninco sprung guide not a good fit so that is another job.

 

Here are some progress photos.

 

IMG_6226_zps4f02d77c.jpg

 

IMG_6227_zps24c1d5a4.jpg

 

Here is the view you will get of my car (probably as you flash past)

IMG_6229_zps30af9d75.jpg

 

 

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Very nice Chas, I have paid my entry fee so just have to mod a car, hopefully it will arrive in time. Can you tell me tyre of choice (or what should work) as I'll probably need to order some hubs/tyres ASP. Oooops I see what tyres you are using.

Edited by aquakiwi

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MJK's would be the best all round (no pun) tyre for the event

 

You need something that will grip up quick, suite the different surfaces and last the distance


Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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