Car Builds

[red kea 0]

Hi Guys

Are we going to see any set up tips for the Plafit classes? Particularly in my case for Plafit 32 Div1/2.

If so that would be great! I've got one sitting here on the bench and not really sure where to start.

Cheers

Alan

 

Definitely support this - any "how-to" on set-up and build for 1700 or Super 32 chassis Div 1/2. Also have one sitting on bench - goes well on local track but where to from as supplied?

 

Peter

[Camber 19]

I'll organise a build as soon as I can.

 

- Cam

[slo1quick 12]

This thread is going to be a great point to refer back to, thanks for sharing your knowledge Shane!

[lenny broke 34]

Thanks Cam

[Camber 19]

Sorry for the delay on the Plafit build, I have made a start and should have it finished in the next couple of days.

 

Ninco Supra is the donor, this body measures up nicely and should be a solid runner.

 

 

Parts I am using are 3300T rolling chassis, 3307B-D flat mounts, 3307B1 flat mount spacers, a carbon front axle and roller bearings.

 

The front and rear spliters have to be cut off the chassis and screw/glued to the body.

 

 

Using a true surface (glass, machined plate etc) sand all parts flat. This is the foundation of the build and is important.

 

 

I grind the tyres about 0.5mm over miniumum spec, so 18.5mm front and 19.5mm rear and put a radius on the corners.

I coat the front wheels with super glue and polish.

 

 

Front wheels finished with inserts. I machined down the Ninco wheels to fit the Plafit wheels, you can also buy photo etched inserts.

 

 

Use a straight edge to align the front bearing holders. The bearings can be tight in the holders, I ream them out slightly so they slide in easily but are not sloppy.

I have them out far enough so I can access the guide holder plate screws.

 

 

Measure from the tee plate so both wheels are equal from the centreline.

 

 

Scribe a centreline down the chassis and do the same with the rear end.

 

 

Now check the distance from the front and rear axles. You want these fairly close so the car doesn't crab and rob speed.

 

Another quick note, the 2 screws that hold the tee plate in position to the chassis have a larger head on them.

 

 

 

 

Assemble the "H" plate and flat mounts. Here you can see the small aluminum packer on one side to bring the flat mount down level with

the bottom of the chassis.

 

 

Place the chassis inside the body. I like to have 1 to 2mm clearance from the flat mount to the side of the body if possible.

The small plastic ribs on the body can be ground off and towards the front of the car there is a grill right were the sponge mount will go.

 

 

I put some plaster tape over the grill so the glue wont go over the outside of the car.

 

 

Before mounting the body you need to lock the chassis up tight ie the "H" plate and front tee plate should have no movement.

There are 2 holes in the middle of the "H" plate to insert screws and put 1 screw in the chassis slot to lock the front tee plate.

The chassis must be ready to race, chassis height set etc before mounting the body. Also check all 4 wheels sit evenly on a setup plate.

There are 2 spring loaded screws on the front tee plate just behind the front axle blocks which can be used to tweak any twists and lower the chassis.

 

Measure the inside of the body and measure the overall chassis width at the flat mounts. The difference + the flat mount thickness is how wide the foam mountings should be.

In this case 7mm at the rear and 10.5mm at the front. Because of the body shape, I have brought the rear foam mounts down towards the front of the car.

Using quick grip (or any contact adhesive) coat both surfaces and wait 10 minutes until they are almost dry but still a bit tacky.

 

 

 

Body should be a nice slide fit over the body mount sponge and all 4 wheels should be even in the guards. If it is tight or uneven, dremel some of the foam away with an abrasive emery drum.

 

 

Coat the inside of the body where the foam mounts go with the same contact adhesive but not on the foam mounts.

 

 

Put the body on straight away and position it correctly.

I use 10 or 20 cent coins as body packers depending on the car and put tape down on the setup plate to avoid any drops of glue getting on it.

Be careful not to put the coins under the flat mounts, only under the body.

Give it a day to dry with a light load on the roof.

 

Edited April 25, 2014 by Camber

[dangermouse 95]

Are the front wheels foam or rubber?

[dangermouse 95]

I have 3 1'/32 chassis so will be following this build for some tips on fixing them up

[Camber 19]

More Super 32 Plafit build added.

[lenny broke 34]

Hi Cam

Thanks for doing the above Prep guide, lots of good info there, I really appreciate your time amd effort.

Cheers

Alan

[red kea 0]

Cam,

I appreciate the effort you have put in to share your undoubted experience in the "art" of Plafit chassis set-up. Some good tips here.

Thanks,

Peter

[lenny broke 34]

Hi Cam

 

A couple of questions in regard to the pic below

 

The nylon pieces, I assume they are packers that go under the pillow blocks, Are they meant to be used?

 

The body mounts shown in the tips post differ from the one I have (see pic)

Which are the correct ones and or preferred to use?

Cheers Alan

 

 

 

 

[Camber 19]

Hi Alan,

 

The nylon packers are used under the axle holders and adjust the ride height. They can be purchased in different thicknesses to get the desired height.

The chassis comes with aluminium right angle body mounts and can be used. The flat mounts are usually preferred as they provide weight down low on the chassis.

 

I will try and finish the build this week.

 

Cheers,

 

- Cam

[lenny broke 34]

Hi

I've finally got my Div1 GT32 car going.It only done a few test laps on my little home track but seems to go Ok. It still needs some weight to bring it into spec and some livery detail. Hopefully I'll get down to T-birds Tuesday night for a test run.