Car Builds

[Brooksy]

Shane what motor configuration can be used in the slot.it class?

 

This might help answer your question

 

BODY:

1.Only the original unmodified Slot.It group C in-line chassis is allowed.

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16727-classes-and-rules-for-the-2014-scale-model-nationals/

 

Jason

[Chris1810]

Thanks Champ.

[Guest jazzbell]

Great thread Shane. Why did you measure the front and rear track widths in the 917 build?

 

Hi Mac,

 

Measurement on the 917, front width works best for me there,the rear is starting point and work my way out. just depend on track conditions.

 

Rear measurement you can not go any narrow with the gluded and trued NSR foam wheels or the NONE gear side will hit on the chassis.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

[Guest jazzbell]

Some more of the Slot.it build in post 21.

 

tyres and chassis.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

[Guest jazzbell]

Slot.it build all complete in post 21.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

[Yngwie]

Excellent write up Shane. Great of you to offer up your trade secrets for people to see.

[lenny broke]

Hi Shane,

Are you going to do any build info threads on the metal chassis classes? I'm sure there are some people here that are contemplating entering for them that would appreciate the help.

Cheers

Alan

[Chris1810]

Share, is there any weight restrictions in the slot.it or Nsr class?

[Guest jazzbell]

Alan if i have time ill do a build.

 

Chris know weight limit in the Slot.it and NSR class.

 

Regards shane a

 

Team thunderbird

Edited September 18, 2013 by jazzbell

[lenny broke]

Hi Shane,

I hope you can find the time. I'm thinking of entering the plafit GT div 2 and am keen to see some build tips for them. Also thanks for the above info.It's nice to see from other's work I on a similar track.

Cheers

Alan

[Camber]

This thread is a build for the 1/24 Nascar class using Revell/Monogram model kit bodies. Usually the white body kits are lighter than the Pro Finish kits, I do like Pro Finish Chev Monte Carlo's and will use that body for this build. While this chassis is about as basic as it gets, there are a few tricks to getting the best performance out of them. Also, the cheap plastic spring clamps from Bunnings are handy for building these cars.

 

Step 1: Bare Chassis Give the chassis a once over. File the underside and vertical axle uprights to remove any metal burrs from the laser cutting. Lay the chassis on a setup board check for twist and use an engineers rule to look for reasonable flatness. No need to sand the chassis perfectly flat like a Plafit, just tweak it in your hands with a straight edge and setup block.

 

 

Step 2: Rear End Rear end setup is pretty important with these cars. I use 3mm Plafit axles and oilites on the rear so a JP spur gear can be used (they are the best IMO). You can still use the standard 1/8" rear setup, but may struggle getting a decent gear mesh. If you are handy, you could also ream out a JP spur gear to 1/8". Start by bracing the rear uprights with a piece of stainless wire bent to shape. I use 1.6mm TIG welding rod soft soldered across the back.

 

 

 

Next the oilites need to be soldered in and there is usually quite a bit of clearance between the chassis axle holes and the Oilite. This will require a bit of improvisation with how you choose to do it if you don't have any fancy jigs, but the aim is to get the axles at the same height from the bottom of the chassis and parallel with the front axle. I have used a couple of aluminium blocks to pack the axles up and then shimmed the bottom of the chassis to line it up with the oilites. Insert the front 1/8" axle (after checking it is straight) and pull the axles together using rubber bands.

 

 

Put a small tack of solder on the top of the oilites while holding the axle down on the blocks to get the height correct.

 

 

Now measure the distance between the axles on both sides of the chassis which is likely to indicate the axles are not parallel. On the side that has the shortest measurement, heat the solder tack and move the axle back a bit and re measure. This might take a couple of goes and needs a bit of feel, but isn't that hard to do. Ideally you are looking for around 0.1mm difference on both sides, over 0.2mm is a bit too much.

 

 

 

When happy with the dimensions of the rear end, fully solder the oilites with the axles in and start at the bottom so you don't melt the top tacks of solder used for positioning. The axle should slide nicely in and out of the oilites. Rear end is now finished.

 

 

I use the green wall plugs and brass screws available from Bunnings. The screws should have a straight shank a few mm down from the head so the body can float nicely without catching the screw threads.

 

 

For the front axle, I machine a small groove and use a 3mm circlip for the independant front end. The other end has a the wheel grub screw fitted.

 

 

Roll the front wheels in super glue and re finish on the tire grinder to remover the rubber dags with wet and dry sand paper.

 

 

Install front and rear axles with the wall plugs screwed up tight.

 

 

Slowly grind down the wall plugs so the body sits nice and even. 10 cent pieces under the front and sides work pretty good. Don't go any lower or the body will drag on the track when cornering.

 

 

When happy the body is sitting right, some guys use Shelly's Multi Grip which is very good and flexible, but can attack the body plasic in some cases. Lately I have been using contact adhesive which seems to work well. Insert some plastic gussets to re-inforce the body posts.

 

 

When the body is mounted, insert the glass + interior. I like to solder the motor in at two points opposite the brush end to avoid excess heat into the com. I use the bunnings plastic clamps to hold the motor in position.

 

 

Finished roller with a bit of weight near the motor.

 

 

Body is now mounted with some movement and the car is finished.

 

 

First outing was respectable, a nice smooth car to drive. Not as quick as some of the other cars, but keep it in the slot and you will be rewarded. (ignore white lane lap times, I was driving Chris's rocket!!)

 

Edited November 10, 2013 by Camber

[branco]

Sorry to back track but how often does the chassis straightening process need to be done, only once or more often? cheers and a great help to us newbies.

[nvmyre]

Branco if you're asking about plastic chassis cars, it doesn't hurt to check they are still flat occasionally. Even more so if you were preparing for a national event.

Edited October 22, 2013 by nvmyre

[branco]

Thanks for the reply Craig. Yes plastic chassis for group c and nationals maybe.

[Sammi]

Very informative write up Cam, look forward to seeing more...

[Camber]

1/24 Nascar build now finished.

Jim Patto is a guru on these things, he may be able to input anything I have missed.

 

Cheers,

 

- Cam

Edited November 9, 2013 by Camber

[Guest jazzbell]

Hi guy's time for another build,this one is for the Ninco GT class. Great class this one with plenty of great looking cars.

 

This build i'm going to show the Mosler MT900,my opinion still the best race car Ninco have released in the GT range. Track record proves that with the amount of wins this model has had.

 

Key tip on any Ninco build is make sure you have everything flat,parts move free and most of all the rear end is braced well.

 

The rear end bracing i'll show is how i do mine.People have all sorts of methods for this. I don't think there is a right or wrong way as long as it works. It is a MUST though.

 

First step i always lay out the parts after i strip the car. I've gone the lightened car. i like the idea with having the light body so then i can transfer the weight down low on the chassis for better handling.

 

 

As the top picture shows i've already got the chassis ready to straighten. The steel plate loaded with the magnets than into the boiling water.

 

 

While the chassis is curing in the water i then start truing the front wheels.

 

 

Once both fronts are trued i then roll the wheels in super glue. The picture me rolling the glue on the fronts is the cleanest and best way to roll the glue even i believe. Running on the gloss tracks this a must to stop the friction on the fronts touching on the track surface.Stops fronts having any front end grip and causing handling problems.

 

 

 

Now to start on chassis.

 

The first thing i always do is just dremel or file each end where the motor clips into.The hole idea of this is when the motor is placed in the chassis it just falls in with know force at all. This allows the chassis to remain straight, press fitting the motor will make your flat chassis bend.

 

 

The process above i also do on the bearing hangers. jUST THE SLIGHTEST file or it can put everything out of square come time to glue bearings. Reason for a slight file is if you press fit the bearings you have the chance

of cracking the bearing hanger in the centre and also the pressure of the tight fit of the bearing will pull the chassis out of flat.

 

Picture below i put pressure with the axel just to make sure all sits flat and axel moves freely from side to side.

BREARINGS ARE THE LAST THING I GLUE IN NINCO BUILDS.

 

 

Now i move onto fitting the motor and bracing.

 

I dont go overboard with the glue or it can twist everything out of place. I just use a scriber or any thing with a point on the end,touch of glue and place where needed. In the case both ends of the motor.

 

 

The bracing on my nincos has been what works for me. In the picture below i brace in three sections.

I use plastic and stainless steel.

 

First is the small plastic between the motor and the bearing hanger on the gear side. This stops the flex of the chassis. Without this you can hold the chassis and the hole rear end can twist. So of course not having this tiny piece this will help the ninco hop and shutter as we say.

 

Second is the plastic piece between the bearing hanger and motor. This acts as i said above,without it too much flex in the rear end will cause the ninco shutter and hop.

 

Third is my stainless steel plate.This is more of a rear end strength plate. Over the years this small plate has been my winner in the mosler set up. Depending on track conditions i tend to change this plate. Shape is always the same,plate thickness can vary from .5mm to 2,5mm.

 

 

After all the bracing and motor are all glued in i then glue my rear bearings in.

 

Reason i leave the bearings last to glue is i like to make sure everthing is all flat .Gluing parts can twist the rear so the bearing hanger only has to sit up just that little it will create shutter,hop and pulling to one side under brakes into corners.

 

Measure with verniers to make sure.

 

 

Now it's place the rear end together. Front wheels and lead wire. I use the pro race guide and have never used the spring. Find car handels better with out spring. With know scx pro braid the next best thing i've found is the NSR braid. Good life and very thin to get the nose down.

 

 

stunning looking car

.

 

Hope this can help in any way.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

Edited January 25, 2014 by jazzbell

[Guest jazzbell]

Ninco build in post 42 now complete.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

[manimmal]

Nice tutorial there Shane, thanks for taking the time.

 

Chris

[axman]

Yep.. nice work Shane.. as usual, thanks for sharing.

[BigMick]

I am applying a few of these tips to simple scaley cars with great results at Tbirds thanks Shane your willingness to share knowledge with all is a credit to you and your commitment to slot racing.

[Guest jazzbell]

Hi guy's nothing better than spending a Australia night building a slot car and watching Mad MAX 2 .

 

Grass Roots Racing build this one,SCX nascar. I prefer the areo over the Cot cars. If anyone is still looking on getting the hands on the Aero Thunderbirds raceway here in Adelaide has them still.

 

Strip down first.

 

 

Then i'll start by breaking the bearing support holders off so this can help for body rock. Rules allow this.

 

 

Helping with the body rock i scrap a little off the chassis and a touch on the inner edges of the body.

 

 

Next step i like to place the motor cradel and rear end and mesch the pinion and gear. With the Scx if you do this and its your first time be very careful not to melt the gear .heat gradually. You'll hear the change in sound and when you turn it over you'll feel it free up.

 

 

After happy with this i then pop the rear end to work on the tyres and run in the motor.

 

First i sit the motor and free run it on 3 volts and work my way up,then i reverse the polarity.

 

 

While motor is running in i'll glue and true the rear tyres. MJK tyre for this class.

 

 

I always glue the MJK but i know 99% dont. Just run a slight bead around then all ready for truing.

 

 

This process of truing i also do with the fronts.Minimum clean up so i dont loose to much on the diameter so i dont loose to much top speed.REAR TYRES THAT IS.

.

 

Now i'll set the guide up.

With the Scx they have that up and down movement what can interfear with power pick up so a simmple bit of 4mm hose stops that .

Shown in picture below the guide is in, just slip it over.

 

 

Now the guides in i fit the rear end and front wheels and set up to glue the cradel in.

MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE BUILD. Chassis and cradel all sitting square. What i do is place on set up block,make sure fronts touch and all four corners are even front and rear.

 

 

 

Happy how good thats gone now i glue the cradel

 

 

Ater the cradel is glued and the car is sitting square i then glue the rear end axel bushes.

 

 

Last important thing i do is some lead wire on the pick ups. A MUST if you dont want power problems. Just solder from the motor pick up to the chassis pickup.Then i place a little weight down the sides of the motor,little weight up front.

 

 

 

BAM ,Now we have a race car.........

 

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

Edited January 26, 2014 by jazzbell

[axman]

No wonder the ratio of posts on this forum is about 50:1 in favour of 1/32.

Its not that Auslot is 1/32 biased, its just the 1/32 manufacturers have got it so right! To see how easy Shane explains it is to blueprint this car, the lack of "extra performance bits" required, and the low price point certainly give 1/32 great appeal.

Edited January 27, 2014 by axman

[Guest jazzbell]

 

the low price point certainly give 1/32 great appeal.

 

Kim how's this for low price,

 

All the RTR 1/32 classes that I've won at Model Car Nationals from 2011 at Hornsby up until last year 2013 have all been the same cars with know new tyres or other parts.The cars with screw on wheels come off and I keep them in a sealed bag in the fridge then they come out 12 months later.

 

My Scx Nascar that's had the same set of of tyres for 4 years had some test time last week,guess what,still lapping the same times as I won with in 2012 in Adelaide. The wheels don't come off so I keep the hole car in a sealed bag.

 

Still even got scrutineer stickers all over the cars.

 

Regards shane a

 

Team thunderbird

Edited January 27, 2014 by jazzbell

[lenny broke]

Hi Guys

Are we going to see any set up tips for the Plafit classes? Particularly in my case for Plafit 32 Div1/2.

If so that would be great! I've got one sitting here on the bench and not really sure where to start.

Cheers

Alan

Edited April 6, 2014 by lenny broke