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Car Builds

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Guest jazzbell

Guys I've decided to do a car build section . This will be mainly The 32scale RTR cars.I'll start off with the NSR Classic car which will be a 917 Porsche.

 

I'm going to do a step by step build.

 

This I think this should be a good topic for all to follow .So don't hold back on the questions and comments.

 

Regards shane a

 

Team thunderbird

Edited by jazzbell

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Hi Shane

Look forward to this thread as my NSR Porsche is a piece of crap that handles WORSE :wacko: than a Ninco.

It just bounces through corners & it dosen't matter what tyres I put on it's the same,it was suggested it may have a hairline crack in the pod but so far I haven't been able to find anything.

Of my 200 plus collection it's the only car that I haven't been able to improve.

Looking forward to your fix it tips as it is one sensationl looking car

Cheers Jimmy :D


To finsh first,first you gotta finish

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Guest jazzbell

Start of build 1 today,the NSR classic Porsche 917.

 

This is just more a guide for the 24 scale guys that never race these 32 scale RTR cars and wouldn't mind having a go now. also for those to learn more.

 

First is strip down making sure all parts are all good.

 

mcncarbuilds917001_zps701be48a.jpg

 

Next for me is making sure chassis and motor cradle is flat and straight. In this case not.

My method is the boiling water to straighten the chassis and cradle. Nice steel plate with plenty of magnets.

 

mcncarbuilds917002_zps0ae040ef.jpg

 

You can notice that both parts are held down by plenty of magnets. If your looking and woundering why the motor in the cradle ? Reason is for when the bearings go in after for the rear end to sit square and flat.

The cause of the cradle not sitting flat is always the pressure of the motor being pushed in.So to fix this as its only a slight bend i always use the dummy motor to let the boiling water do it's magic with help of the magnets,it will bring the cradle into the dead flat position. So when the dummy motor is removed the cradle is flat and i know when i place the race motor in the cradle will still remain flat.

 

Back to the boiling water ,this step i always do first so i can go on with other stages of the build.Normally i leave in the tub on the magnets up to 8 hrs.

 

Next i start with running motor in.

 

mcncarbuilds917003_zps3851ae89.jpg

 

mcncarbuilds917004_zps0074d352.jpg

 

I like to start with oil each end of the bearings,start at 1.5 volt x 3 minutes at a time and adding a drop of boost on the commutator, best stuff on the market by NSR.

Work my way up to 12 volts then switch the positive and negative around and do it again.

 

While this is happening i start on the rear tyres. i have 2 power supply's to be able to multi task.

 

mcncarbuilds917005_zpscceba767.jpg

 

mcncarbuilds917006_zpsea160866.jpg

 

Im happy to say know glueing as these are the glued and trued from NSR foam tyres. First picture just a light touch to make sure true.

 

Picture 2 shows me putting a light edge on the tyre. Square edge on high grip tracks, cars with a weight of 100grms can cause shutter in the rear end. Also on the 917 rear end the wheel arches can be close to the tyre.Rounding of the edge can avoid missing the wheel arches too. plus when i get to the stage of cradle tension and how loose to have your body, these 2 factors also can contribute to things rubbing and touching.

 

Now to the motor and cradle. First i glue the motor,little bit of a file to make sure glue holds well.

I glue the motor in sitting flat on my set up block making sure everything is flat. After this its time for the axle and bearing.

mcncarbuilds9172001_zps17910ec3.jpg

 

The picture above im pushing down on the axel and rocking from side to side,back and fourth.By doing this it gives the axel its free slide.Hard to put in words but you feel the freedom of movement.

 

Next is i measure with my verniers from the top of axle both sides to make sure axel runs true before i glue the bearings in.

mcncarbuilds9172002_zps7cf1c00f.jpg

 

Now all true bearings are glued. Its a must in 32 scale builds. 1 stops rear end from popping out,2 vibration in cornering,3 shudder on acceleration.

mcncarbuilds9172003_zpsbde2b569.jpg

 

As i said before about friction,less as possible. Now bearings set the axle now falls through when placed on it's side.

 

Now time for assembly.This photo shows how flat everything is,look at the cradle how flat it sits on the chassis.The red to black know daylight.

 

mcncarbuilds9173001_zps58a4b38a.jpg

 

mcncarbuilds9173003_zps67916674.jpg

 

Next photo i show is the .05 washers either side on the axel .I use these to reduce the size of the surface that makes contact with the bearig surface face Wheel hub and gear.

 

mcncarbuilds9173002_zps3abae76b.jpg

 

This photo you can see the difference on the surface the gear is only running against. Just the small surface of the spacer.

mcncarbuilds9173004_zpsbcf9884e.jpg

 

 

The classic Nsr cars come with the treaded tyres,i tend to true the fronts and take the tyre down to when you know longer see the tread.Don't over true or front wheels will not touch the setup board.

 

Picture below shows me hardening up the fronts up with super glue. This way rolling it through the glue gives even flow.

mcncarbuilds9174001_zpse791103e.jpg

 

Next front end . Nsr do beautiful little washers and this is what i start at with testing on my front wheel track.(width)

mcncarbuilds9174006_zpsfb46e8c2.jpg

 

Rear end.

 

Note.Now we can run the foam wheels and tyres,YOU MUST ADD .5MM OR 1MM SPACERS ON REAR AXEL

before rear wheels go on.

Reason the new wheels come with are a small hub and will hit on the chassis.

Picture below shows minimum wheel width i start at.

mcncarbuilds9174007_zps754b97d8.jpg

 

For our national rules we can run weight,i always start with my testing with out weight,cradle done up so know movement,body loose.

Next depends on condition of track,if lacking grip i work on cradle adjusting half a turn at a time until happy.Thats to loosen for cradle movement.

If plenty of grip cradle will remain done up.Remember do not over tighten as it can twist the chassis and i will have the body loose.

 

If weight needed this was my winning formula at this years nationals. Stainless steel weight plate wire cut to perfection.

 

mcncarbuilds9174004_zps3a65e4d3.jpg

 

Now the look of a fine 917.

 

mcncarbuilds9174005_zpsd2abb2dd.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

Edited by jazzbell

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your brave for showing your secrets. & cheers cause this will help me..

 

Q... you reform the motor cradle with motor in (thanks for showing this).. though why not the bearings/axle as well ??

 

 

ps.

. I see the gear wouuld hit the ground

Edited by neil

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i thought we were thorough, back in the redline raceway group 12 days. this is at another level. cant believe how much fine detail is evident in this preparation.

 

very impressive.


Shed People Mutual Admiration Society

2 times Australian National Champion

1991-Flexicar 1999- Group 12 Sedan

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Guest jazzbell

your brave for showing your secrets. & cheers cause this will help me..

 

Q... you reform the motor cradle with motor in (thanks for showing this).. though why not the bearings/axle as well ??

 

 

ps.

. I see the gear wouuld hit the ground

 

Neil when i get to build stage when it all goes back together the motor goes in first (glued) then the rear end follows.The next step is where the verniers come out to measure the height of the axel is the same each side of the set up board,then the gluing of the bearings happens.

 

These NSR'S when you hold them on there sides you should be able to drop the axel and it falls through the bearings to the ground. All about clearences and having as little as friction as possible.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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Where do you get your NSR foam tyres from?

 

Edit - ahh just realised you can't buy the tyres seperately

Edited by nvmyre

5 x National Champion

2 x National Enduro Champion

2 x HBMRC V8 Supercar Enduro Champion

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??? " Run the motor in again reversing the polarity " Well.. You do have fast motors Shane. Must admit I've never run a motor in both ways so might explain why I just can't find a fast motor. Like your chassis flattening method.. I've got a NSR so I better get started!

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Guest jazzbell

. like your chassis flattening method.. I've got a NSR so I better get started!

 

Kim the build stages for Nsr cars i do the same build process with the GT'S and the classics.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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[Back to the boiling water ,this step i always do first so i can go on with other stages of the build.Normally i leave in the tub on the magnets up to 8 hrs.]

another Q........ I straightened a FLY chasis with this method.. with my impatience I assembled. the car as soon as the hot water had cooled/1hr.. it worked fine straight as a die............ Is there reasoning to the "normally 8hrs"?....... is it due to dif. plastics,,, do you re-aply the hot water again later,,, or simply don't touch until needed..

Cheers.

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Guest jazzbell

[Back to the boiling water ,this step i always do first so i can go on with other stages of the build.Normally i leave in the tub on the magnets up to 8 hrs.]

another Q........ I straightened a FLY chasis with this method.. with my impatience I assembled. the car as soon as the hot water had cooled/1hr.. it worked fine straight as a die............ Is there reasoning to the "normally 8hrs"?....... is it due to dif. plastics,,, do you re-aply the hot water again later,,, or simply don't touch until needed..

Cheers.

 

Neil ,

The different company's do have there own grades of plastic for chassis. With NSR 9 times out of 10 they are spot on when they come out the box,meaning dead flat chassis. This one is the 1percenta.

 

Not to my liking ,the chassis has gone in and out a couple of times in the boiling water. The 8 Hrs was just a total time . The method for straightening it was to show if bent how to fix . Cradle was done and straight after water had cooled.

 

Regards shane a

 

Team thunderbird

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Guest jazzbell

Some more progress on car build in post 4 .

 

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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Thanks for posting this, Shane - it is interesting to see how others do it....Question, if I may - how do you apply the power drops to the commutators of these types of motors?

Edited by bov

Cheers,

 

Tony.

 

There's only two questions:

 

1. What direction do you go

2. What's the Lap Record?

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Guest jazzbell

Bov,

 

Power boost is in a needle bottle . NSR motors come all open can bar 1 motor they use in the Spanish events with know downforce effect .

 

The needle bottle fits easy in the cut out of the motor housing where you can add the drops to the com.

 

The closed can motors i let you know how and what I do when I get to that class.

 

Regards shane a

 

Team thunderbird

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Awesome tutorial!

Amazing to see the amount of prep that goes into getting a car race ready :)

Thanks for sharing your skills with us - gold!

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Guest jazzbell

1st car build for the NSR Classics all complete refer to post 4.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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Hey Shane where did you get those wonderful laser cut weights from????

 

Ray

Edited by Ratracer

As Parnelli Jones the Indy 500 winner once said "If you are not out of control you are not going fast enough!"

 

2017 Plafit FLM Edurance Champion

Team Thunderbird

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Guest jazzbell

What other cars are in the nsr classic class?

 

Hi Chris,

 

The other 3 cars to choose from are the P68......GT40MKII.....FORD MKIV

 

nextbuild001_zps954242b2.jpg

 

nextbuild002_zpsf2c70b33.jpg

 

Regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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Guest jazzbell

Build 2 i'm going to do the Slot it Group c. Love this class,quality of cars are just beautiful. Speacially the Toyotas. nextbuild003_zpsf4185161.jpg First step as always is to have that perfect straight chassis. Plenty of magnets on a nice flat piece of steel. Then let it sit in boiling water until water cools. nextbuildS002_zps3cb72d50.jpg Next i run the motor in.Little drop of oil on the bearing each end ,1.5v up to 12v then reverse the positive and negative and repeat again. NOTE,DO NOT PUT ANY DROPS OF ANY KIND INTO THE SLOT.IT MOTORS ONTO THE COMUTATOR . These motors burn out and smoke just about instantly. nextbuildS007_zpsef8090b0.jpg

 

Now the rear wheels and tyres. This step will be new for just about every 32 scale RTR racer. Slot.it do not make aready to run foam tyre set up,you have to buy the wheels seperate and also the foam tyres.

 

The PART NUMBERS PT1209SP30 Sponge tyres and WH1211-AL Wheels. I've been told you do'nt have to glue these.My opinion you do so this is the process.

 

Picture below showing the contact grip i use. Now using contact is the best and proven formula for foam tyres.

 

First the contact must be applyed to the wheels and foam tyres. This i just pour straight from the contact tube as shown below,then i use a tooth pick to flow the contact around to get that even look. You don't have to go overboard with how much contact goes on.

 

nextbuildS001_zps49956eb7.jpg

 

nextbuildS005_zps39b19950.jpg

 

nextbuildS006_zpsd619b63d.jpg

 

nextbuildS003_zps382ea07d.jpg

 

nextbuildS004_zps08bfe088.jpg

 

Now the contact is on ,you have to let it set for 24hrs before you fit the tyres.

 

Now that the wheels and tyres have set for 24 hrs there ready to be fitted. This step you place the wheel into a little cup of shelite,doing this will make the contact turn into a sticky slush.

 

nextbuildSL001_zps287edc60.jpg

 

I tend to leave it in for 30 seconds or more.The axel on the wheel is just to hold so i'm not putting my hands in the shelite,now the tyre can be pushed onto the rim.

 

nextbuildSL002_zps65c261b0.jpg

 

Now the tyre is on i let the contact bond with the wheel and will sit for another 24hrs.

This process may sound alot,but normally i will glue and true a batch of wheels and tyres. Trust me you will never have a tyre come away from your wheels.

 

In this next picture i'm showing the cut out that is in the foam tyre from slot.it.

When i true these i take them down util that slot is not showing.

 

nextbuildSL005_zps05d02e0b.jpg

 

Now i can start on the chassis and cradle. Slot.it cradles can be twisted at times.

The cradle should sit flat on the chassis mounting holes as shown in picture.

 

nextbuildSL003_zps194af63d.jpg

 

If not sitting flat,when you do the cradle screws up it will twist the chassis. Now you will not notice the twist until the car is fully finished and looking from behind on the set up board.

 

Knowing the cradle is all good i work on the motor and cradle mounting. I normally file each end of the cradle so the motor slips in with know pressure at all.Then i'll check

axel heights.

 

nextbuildSL004_zps8a02675c.jpg

 

 

Now the gear and axle to go in. For me the less friction and know sound and free movement of the gear is what you want,some people like to bed the gear in with toothpaste or products that manufactures sell,me i like fire.

 

The next picture i'm beding the gear in with the BBQ lighter. I do this by sound. When its free wheeling as it is you can hear the sound change. Then i'll pick it up and spin the axel by hand and turn it to make sure the gear has meshed perfect. If i'm not happy i'll repeat until i am.

 

nextbuildSLF001_zps8af1d9a9.jpg

 

Next i glue the bushes in using a toothpick and the motor i glue now as well.

 

nextbuildSLF002_zpsaa92f8ce.jpg

 

With my rears and fronts trued i assemble the front and rear wheels,now i sit it on the setup board and make sure all is good ,meaning front wheels touch,chassis even both sides at the front and even looking at the rear end.

 

nextbuildSLF003_zps5b5c0ee5.jpg

 

All finished.

 

Testing i'll start with body loose,cradle done up and know weight then when i see and feel what the car dose and i'll go from there.

 

nextbuildSLF004_zps4279b462.jpg

 

 

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

Edited by jazzbell

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Guest jazzbell

Start of build in post 21 for slot.it has begun........

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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