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neil

How Do I / To "Magnetize" A Wooden Track

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My Dilemma ...... my wooden routed track was meant to be braided with Magna-braid (as asked when purchased,,, as written on packaging,, but found not so after laid) .. No biggy... But I was hoping to run some cars with magnetic assit. especially the cars in ghost mode on the second lane/ both..

 

So.....Plan is....after other track mods have been done I'm going to re-coat my track,,, so if I'm going to dig into the surface now would be the time..................asking this now will hopefully give plenty of time to figure the best/easiest/cheapest way...

 

My solution so far (& the only I can thin of )..... is to use coated countrsunk screws alongside/3mm from the braid...... though to do both lanes is going to be a bit of work.....

 

So i'm thinking (so far).......

 

I don't think the Straights or wider curve would need to be done

 

Would I need to do both sides of the slot... Or the inner side .....Or the outer side of the corner???................. due to the lighter cars with "Button Mags not "Straight Bar" such as the Scaley Lotus F1's............. With this I'm thinking the Outerside of the slot

 

Then I'm wondering how many mm's apart........?

 

Has anyone dealt with this scenario before or have a simpler idea

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Has anyone dealt with this scenario before or have a simpler idea

Maybe too simplistic, just race non mag. :)

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Just buy magna braid ( test before you buy it this time ) ..... less friggin around

 

was just thinking how I would have to place & remove magnets as to the car I would want to use,,,,,, more friggin around..... But still................& as for the purchase wasn't on my priority list at the time,, was just purchase while we were their.

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Has anyone dealt with this scenario before or have a simpler idea

Maybe too simplistic, just race non mag. :)

 

Please read....

But I was hoping to run some cars with magnetic assit. especially the cars in ghost mode on the second lane/ both..

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Didn't the guys at Mobile Raceway come up against this problem when building the new track for MCN? I believe what they finished up doing was embedding some steal wire in the track.

 

You could probably run the wire in the base of the slot if the slot is deep enough.

 

if you're going with your screw idea, you'd only need to do it on the outside of a curve. Consider the way a car drifts when cornering and you should be able to work it out appropriately. Could even go so far as to move the magnetic fodder further away from the slot and back in as the corner progresses

 

Other than that, magnetic paint would be another suggestion, but you would probably need to do numerous applications to build up sufficient magnetic attraction,.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Hi

How about a staple gun simply place staples under the braid or next to the braid this should work better than screws.

Steve

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When I was talking to SlotsNZ back in April I seem to recall him saying he knew where there was some magnabraid.

 

Maybe it would be worth sending him a pm and see if it is still around.


Alan Stubbings

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Jim Honeycutt has a new supplier of wire for Magnatech braid. Latest news is he hopes to have a run of braid by the end of this month.

 

Probably a bit of a back log but nice to know he's back in business, or will be shortly.

Edited by Garry J

Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

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Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Great news for production of Magna-braid for those wanting to buy....... as for me,, I'm not too keen on re braiding the track

 

though my Q. is not a definite to do,, was just toying on the idea... I do like the solutions mentioned though I am after the least amount of work necessary.... so far I'm thinking of the...

 

Staples if I can get decent sized/with enough pull applied consistantly just below the surface....... then a little filler/paint.

 

which leads me to thinkin about

Tacks large head size like C/sunk screw..... maybe pre drill to lower head below surface then tap/hammer.... then a little filler/paint.

 

which makes the

Counter sunk screw idea seem a little more work for the results needed..

 

cheers.... & hope I can afford Aussie slotter's ghost car system before I get to this process

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Unless you've a powerful staple gun, getting the staples below the track surface might be difficult.

 

Nails and a punch sound the simplest.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Unless you've a powerful staple gun, getting the staples below the track surface might be difficult.

 

Nails and a punch sound the simplest.

 

yeh was thinking this,,,,, I now an air opp. staple gun would get below the surface,,,, no hassle... its the consistency in depth...

 

Nails and a punch sound the simplest...... sure does so far,,, but I'm concerned with the stuttering effect it could have whilst cornering,,,, this would obviously be connected with the spacing of nails = more work........ When I get to the planned track mods... the router will be out i'll definitely have to experiment with a test board.

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When I worked as a boilermaker we would sweep up tons of iron filings from the shop floor, could you mix this with paint, like sand in paving paint, and paint this on your turns, IF it works it would be nice and even over the whole corner.

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When I worked as a boilermaker we would sweep up tons of iron filings from the shop floor, could you mix this with paint, like sand in paving paint, and paint this on your turns, IF it works it would be nice and even over the whole corner.

 

Ferrodore is just this... though it does''t have enough pull like magna-braid

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As far as I know Ferodor has no magnetic pull at all. I am sure OTFS can answer this better.

 

i does slightly,,, When track is up vertical any of the car mags(not fitted) can hold their own weight.

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I run regularly on a track built using filings. Difference between magnet strength, is easily identified. Track has whole surface covered and can be abrasive.

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\Why not just route a slot beside the braid from underneath the track, add wire then fill slot?


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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\Why not just route a slot beside the braid from underneath the track, add wire then fill slot?

 

couldnt rout from beneath the track as its permanently fixed down,,, and unfortunately my situation wont allow me to do the same to the top side due to the router base plate size & fence being close,,,,,,, at the end of the day I might not even get around to doing this exercise,,,, & your wireless ghost program could be the final answer..... Is it your program I saw recently with the ability recorded laps to use for ghost car...

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Had a discussion about what Mobile Raceway did recently and unless you are skilled that can be very difficult as it is easy to break the MDF when routing the slot for the wire as it becomes very thin.

 

Neil I would think using screws or tacks it would be near impossible to get every one at the correct depth. Better to try routing alongside the braid and embedding wire but maybe too hard now you are done. Pretty tough job if the braid is already down and you don't want to stuff it up. Good luck.

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\Why not just route a slot beside the braid from underneath the track, add wire then fill slot?

 

couldnt rout from beneath the track as its permanently fixed down,,, and unfortunately my situation wont allow me to do the same to the top side due to the router base plate size & fence being close,,,,,,, at the end of the day I might not even get around to doing this exercise,,,, & your wireless ghost program could be the final answer..... Is it your program I saw recently with the ability recorded laps to use for ghost car...

Now we have a basic constant speed ghost car for analogue the next step is to have recorded laps played back and calibrated every time it passes the SF line. Im not sure how long that will take to complete though as its quite a task. the screw idea could work as you really only need them on corners right? And only on the side it wants to slide to. The larger the radius the less screws you need or no screws. Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Neil I would think using screws or tacks it would be near impossible to get every one at the correct depth. Better to try routing alongside the braid and embedding wire but maybe too hard now you are done. Pretty tough job if the braid is already down and you don't want to stuff it up. Good luck.

 

yeah not keen on routing over and around the corners on inner part of track as I' just recently started to get into the detailing,,, as for the depth of screws or tacks being accurate I'm not too fussed as these would have enough pull (though I don't think the staples would),,,, & they only need to be below the surface enough for a wipe of putty to cover...... my next thought would be the car stuttering as the mag tries to catch every screw it passes over..... I'm probably over thinking this & wont know till I get a chance to test

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