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Rene

Building My 3 Laner

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heyo,

 

After probably too much track design planing i've finally decided on what i want and started building.

 

combining all the suggestions with the original design i came up with this track layout:

 

_trackplan.gif

 

the track is broken in half so that it can be moved more easily. major grid is 50cm and minor is 10cm. The black numbers indicate the radius and the degrees of the turn, the white numbers indicate the length of the straight (in cm) and the red numbers are the elevation of the track. the track is mostly 300mm wide with 90mm lane spacing, so 1:32 scales cars and trucks will have plenty of room to slip n slide. the track is 3.8m wide by 1.7m deep. later there will be a 1m extension in the middle.

 

i wanted a strong but light weight base to put the track on, so i used 70 x 19mm pine and made it into a grid, on which i layed 3mm MDF sheets.

 

 

_baseunderconst.jpg

 

the pine had handles to make it easier to pick up and move.

 

for the track surface i was thinking of using 9mm MDF but was worried about it warping and also if i route a 7mm slot, theres only 2mm of mdf at the bottom of the slot. so i went with the heavier 12mm stuff. to route the slots i used a combination of techniques. firstly i would route the center slot using a guide made of a flexible plastic strip i got form the hardware for $7, with nails every 100mm.

 

 

_curveplotting.jpg

 

i would then route the slot either side of it using guides which i made from brass tubing. i made a jig to set up the guides, this way, each time i goto route a different part of the track i can set up the guides to be the same distance from the router bit.

 

_routerjig.jpg

 

more next time.

Rene.

Edited by Rene

An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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looks like you're off to ripping start rene! i will be looking forward to your updates

:lol:


MARK......FROM THE ARIZONA DESERT

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I was hoping for "The track is broken in half so I can stick extra bits in later!" :)

 

I've never used one of those router things.. then again with my woodworking genes I'll probably stay with plastic!

 

Looks sensational - keep us posted. :lol:


Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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Hey Rene

 

It's looking good bud and thats a good idea to use the router guide to space the lanes

 

Where in the hardware did you find the flexible strip and what is it used for if you know

 

Thanks mate

 

Pete


Keep it in the groove

Pete

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Good idea Rene regarding the brass tubing as a jig.

 

You have plenty of track length planned in your design althou not too many of the straight are very long ????


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heyo,

 

thanks for you kind words of encouragement guys.

 

I was hoping for "The track is broken in half so I can stick extra bits in later!" :lol:

 

that is the other reason for the break down the middle :), i'm planing a 1 or even 1.5m extension part, extending the back striaght and maybe having a rally style in feild, like Pete was talking about for his track. first i have to get the main part finsihed though, and tis turning out to be quite a project!

 

Where in the hardware did you find the flexible strip and what is it used for if you know

 

i found it in the section where they sell plastic skirting boards, seals and joiners, near the MDF sheets. next time i'm in i'll find out exactly what its called, or if u like, i can buy some and send it to u.

 

You have plenty of track length planned in your design althou not too many of the straight are very long ????

 

this is true, but the turns leading onto and off teh back straight are very wide and banked, so you'll b able to hit the straight, already going a decent speed. i'm also planing an extension... some time down teh track...

 

cya

Rene.


An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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heyo,

 

I've been working on the track a bit more lately, i've made 3 sections of track and joined them together. to join them i put a piece of 12mm MDF under the track sections, clamped it and screwed it together:

 

_join1.jpg

 

i filled all the holes with Auto putty (bog) and sanded it smooth, i then careful lined up the router and joined up the slot (this was tricky)

 

_join2.jpg

 

in a addtion to elevation changes, i wanted all the curves to be slightly banked, ofcourse the flat sheets of MDF weren't too keen on this idea, so i jiged and clamped everything till i got the shape i wanted:

 

_trainingthetrack.jpg

 

i left it clamped over a few nights, the cold damp air helped reshape the MDF and now i quite happily stays in the correct shape.

 

heres the track with the last section in place:

 

_noodles.jpg

 

The 2 straight slots at the back are part of a drag strip that will run the width of the track, with small extensions and should be about 4.5meters long.

 

next is the copper tape, power taps and paint (cant wait!)

 

cya

Rene.


An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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heyo,

 

Spacing is 95mm. inside curve border is 60mm,and outside border is 90mm, so the track is between 310- 350mm wide. plenty of room for power slides. :huh: probably fit 1:24s quite comfortably, but my main reason for the big spacing is that i want to run 1:32 trucks,

 

cya

Rene.


An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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i would then route the slot either side of it using guides which i made from brass tubing. i made a jig to set up the guides, this way, each time i goto route a different part of the track i can set up the guides to be  the same distance from the router bit.

 

_routerjig.jpg

 

more next time.

Rene.

Thats a great idea for a router guide Rene! Thanks for the tip :huh: I have 150 metres of copper braid to make a 4 laner. Also have 10 sheets of 3mm thick MDF. I figured it would be easier to make hills laminating and glueing to form the ups and downs, it means a bit of stuffing around but. I ended up purchasing a 3.2 mm bit for the slot and a 12.7mm bit for the reccess to take the braid. Cost about $60.00 for the 2. They quoted me $300.00 for the 'T' bit of the same demensions. (Are you ther Davenic) Just means I'll have to make more passes using the same guide. Already have 2 routers so i don't have to keep changing the bits. Will let everyone Know how it goes, its still 6 or 7 weeks before i can really sink me teeth into though, have a lot of other projects on the go. The track looks to be coming on great Rene, good stuff. Cheers slo.


"Me Auntie's a Jack !!!"

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The tracks need to be 12 mm thick so you will need to laminate 3 sheets! That's a lot of work. The 12mm will bend O/K. just need to have gradual bendchanges in height or clamp the pieces in position and slowly bend the MDF. I have seen some tracks laminated but if it is not done properly they will seperate.

 

Phil


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Good to see its going ahead Rene, keep us posted, once the next bit is done you can atleast drive on it or work on it for a while. When i got mine routed, painted and taped, I would go to the shed with the intentions of driving for 30 minutes then working on something for 90 minutes. It never happened ! If a car went on the track, that was it, no scenery, just laps.


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Also have 10 sheets of 3mm thick MDF. I figured it would be easier to make hills laminating and glueing to form the ups and downs, it means a bit of stuffing around but.

heyo,

 

i gather you are making a rally type track? if not, i think i'd have to agree with phil in saying that stick to 12mm sheets, even 9mm MDF with a 6mm slot. you'd be supprised how much 12 and 9mm MDF will bend when its cut into strips of track. i think the amount of bend you will get out of laminating 3mm sheets might be too much and u might get some deslots on sharp down hill chnages. (not to mention a **** load of work! :D ) i used the laminating technique for making the rear parcel shelf in my car when i was installing a big sound system, and it was a pain in the butt!, cuting out each lamination, feels like your doing 4 times as much work and geting them to all stick to gether is another chanange, as they all want to stay straight.

 

On the up side i was very happy with the result was good, and i dont think i could have achived the correct slght bend and contures in my parcel shelf any other way.

 

cya

Rene.


An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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Thanks for the good advice Phil and Rene. ;) I didn't plan on making a rally type track, though I did want a banked corner to carry some speed off the straight. And some ups and downs. Longbeach mentioned using 16mm thick MDF and routing a slot 9mm deep to accommodate 1/24 Parma type guides. I dont know how flexible the 16mm thick MDF is and doubted i could acheive the bends i wanted using MDF this thick. My intention is to build a track that I can race 1/24 scale on, there seems to be a much bigger variety of plastic 1/24 scale than 1/32 models for scratch building. Esp. American muscle cars, street rods etc. So I think i will use 16mm MDF for the flatter to gradual slope sections, then laminate 5 x 3mm MDF for the other slower steeper sections. Using 'West System' epoxy resin. I used this as a glue when I made my arched windows for my house. And so far (9 years) has stood up to the wild weather that whips up off Bass Straight, that it is exposed to down here at Wilsons Prom. 'West System' is a very durable 2 part glue that can be routed, sawed, sanded, planed, painted, 'Whipped', can tolerate a vigorous finger pointing and a cool hard stare, blah blah blah. Its good stuff! :)

As for the contours of the track, will be more servere on the slower sections. 5 x 3mm laminates will be pretty close to 16mm. Thanks for your input guys! And apollogies for being vague!

Roland from Slot Shop has put away 1 of those Variable Voltage, (up to 15 volt, 25 amp)(3800!?) transformers,for me. This is what i'll be using as my power pack. Can anyone give me some advice on controllers? Parmas?? Good Affordable ones, if they exist.

 

Thanks and regards, slo


"Me Auntie's a Jack !!!"

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Parma's are available at most of the slot car retailers such as Armchair Racer and also the 1/24 scale tracks such as Hornsby raceway who are the importer.

 

Slot shop sells Professor Motor controllers and are quite affordable for the non adjustable types.

 

There are links to some of the shops on the bottom of the front page. Just go to home up the top.

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Hi...great looking track ;)

I picked up a couple of parma 35 ohm controllers from Sound Barrier Raceway <info@soundbarrierraceway.com> for a really good price :)

 

cheers

 

oh ...can I did that???

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Still collecting the bits for me routed track project. Re; paint . For those that are interested or having trouble getting, the product no. for Dulux Ferrodor, St Enuch grey is 81004973. This is the paint Longbeach uses. Though I assume it is the lighter grey (less abrassive) but not 100% sure. Hows the track coming along Rene? Got this info from a paint supplies who does't supply Dulux, so is unable to to get this product for me. Really helpful bloke though! Now I will take this product no. back to the Dulux Trade centre and see if I still get the dumb look I got last time I asked ! :)

Got a couple of Parma hand controls the other day. :D


"Me Auntie's a Jack !!!"

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Heyo,

 

Been working on the track a bit more, i laid down some copper tape. (very time consuming work!) i then ran a smooth, blunt piece of plastic (the butt of my stanley knife :) ) over it to stick it to the MDF and to smooth out the creases on the turns.

 

_tapedown.jpg

 

i stuck the tape on bare MDF as (i have read) the tape wont come off if the paint does.

 

To keep optimum power to the car and over come any cracks i put in 4 power taps on this half of the track. These consisted of cuting a small groove in the MDF before i laid the tape and drilling a 3mm hole next to the goove. I fed a wire thru, striped the end and soldered it in place:

 

_pwrtap.jpg

 

I'm also working on a hoist system in the garage. i'm thinking of having 4 ropes wind onto a pole, mounted to the ceiling that is rotated by a windscreen wiper motor (nice and torquey, and the worm drive stops the load from turning the motor.) There will be safty chains so i dont get a 80kg slot car track fall on my head when its up.

 

Pics of that when i make some more of it.

 

cya

Rene.


An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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I missed your original update pics while I was away on holiday, but I see you're making great progress. Seeing the design actually in MDF form, rather than just as a diagram makes a huge difference. I thought it looked pretty busy on paper, but now you've carved it out in MDF it really does look awesome - totally works!

 

Keep the progress pics coming.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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Heyo,

 

I painted the track in undercoat (not very exciting, it just light grey now instead of MDF colour :D )

 

I've also been working on a hoisting system. I priced some boat wynches but they were around the $150 mark and i thought that money would be better spend at the Slot Shop :P so i went about making my own system.

 

i designed a hoist that has 2 motors winding 4 ropes (one at each corner of the track to help distribute the load)

 

i finished it last weekend and consists of:

 

_hoistswitch.jpg

 

A couple of heavy duty 20Amp switches in H-patern. (good old XF falcon power window switches, even has "up" and "down" text though faded. )

 

_hoistPSU.jpg

 

A 13.8v 10amp regulated power supply with the regulating circuity removed, now is an 18volt 20amp linear power supply :oB)

 

_hoistwinch.jpg

 

And the winders, using a couple of windscreen wiper motors (courtisy of another XF falcon) That wind the blue rope onto a steel pole running in bearings. when the track is up in the ceiling it is secured with the chains.

 

_hoistwinchcloseup.jpg

 

I choose the wiper motors as they have a worm gear drive (hence the load cannot turn the motor, so where to motor stops thats where the track stays.) and they have crazy amounts or torque, at 12volts, i measured the torque at 80kgcm or 8Nm each.

 

With no track, it moves from floor level to the ceiling in about 20seconds.

 

Now that i have somewhere to put it, i'd better get cracking on teh 2nd half of the track :)

 

Cya

Rene.


An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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