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Drifter

Hybrid Wireless Digital And Analogue

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how much would you sell the for???


ɹǝʌo ǝɯ ןןoɹ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı

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Looking real good there...

Can't wait to see how you get on with this...

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Hi guys, firstly thank you for your interest in this project.

 

I'm approaching this as a project for hobby purposes and to share with forum members.

Not really looking at building to sell, sorry. If your not sure about building one , maybe someone you know who is handy with the soldering iron who can help you.

It's early days so lets see what happens :-) I don't mind programming a couple of chips for someone.

 

Update, the code I was tweaking is now sorted, so will test on the track tomorrow and post results.

 

The code I was working on is the receiving part which connects to the power base, so the powerbase thinks a controller is plugged in . (digital powerbase)

 

Note the previous setup with the opensouceRF modules works extremely well. I recently tested them while standing outside a locked colour bond shed, and the track inside.

I expected some signal issues but it worked fine!!

These modules are much dearer though, $25 each as opposed to the bluetooth ones at $6.50 (free post)

 

Drifter


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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Most Arduino's are programmed via usb cable, the actual program (IDE) to write and load the code to the Arduino is free. The Arduino pro mini needs an extra USB device, about $5 on ebay. If some one has already written the code part, it can be copied straight to your arduino .

Its about as difficult as copying a file to a usb thumbdrive. :-)

There are heaps of programs (code) freely available on the net.

Writting the code is the 'fun' bit :-)


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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Update.......... Track test today went well . LC etc working fine. Tested from outside the shed (closed) and worked fine. Range seems to be around 15 metres.

Some minor changes needed regarding brakes ,but added some extra circuitry and code to smooth that out.

Overall it looks very promising.


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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Great stuff. I just looked back at the pic at the top and it looks lke you have gone back to using the origonal resistor. What made you drop the hall affect sensor? It would help keep the cost down(which is good), but Im curious about whether the hall affect sensor would be more reliable.

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Yes the hall sensor works great. It is a fair bit more work to make, as I plan to make a dozen or so of these controllers for my track it adds up.

 

The hall sensor seems to be beileved to be the 'best thing' but requires a precise mechanism to work. Most controllers have some play in the tigger ,so I challenged myself to find a simple inexpensive way to adapt any controller.

 

Throttle pro's use the resistor with great success , and yes the hall is more expensive (About $5 ea retail, buying 1 at at time)


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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$5 isnt so bad, but over 6 controllers it does add up, especialy after you buy the other stuff. The hall affect sensor would need a different code due to a different signal wouldnt it?

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Yes that's right, also there's the brass tube. It was about $15 but enough to make about 10. Also you need the magnets.

 

The signal is coincidently read in the same way, the hall outputs a certain voltage relative to the magnetic field , and the resistor method creates a voltage divider.

 

In summary the Chip reads an analog value and converts it to a number from 0-1024.

 

The resistor method includes the brake button and LC button, but with the hall you need to read these (brake button and LC button ) individually. (more wires, more code ).


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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