Zero Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 how much would you sell the for??? Quote ɹǝʌo ǝɯ ןןoɹ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacingJoe Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Zero, I think he needs to get it all sorted first, before he commits to anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow_rusty Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Looking real good there... Can't wait to see how you get on with this... Quote Stolen from SlotsNZ Team ABC Team Leader (Ambitious, But Crap) Home Track Threads - Shadow's Semi-Permanent Layout & Another Rug Racer & Proud of It & Gymkhana Test Track Car Collection Thread - My Car Collection Charts / Diagrams - MJK Tyre Selector / Slot.it 4wd Gearing / PoliCar Rollout / Rollout Chart Generator / SCX 4wd Rollout / Track Wiring with Brake on Track Call Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Hi guys, firstly thank you for your interest in this project. I'm approaching this as a project for hobby purposes and to share with forum members. Not really looking at building to sell, sorry. If your not sure about building one , maybe someone you know who is handy with the soldering iron who can help you. It's early days so lets see what happens :-) I don't mind programming a couple of chips for someone. Update, the code I was tweaking is now sorted, so will test on the track tomorrow and post results. The code I was working on is the receiving part which connects to the power base, so the powerbase thinks a controller is plugged in . (digital powerbase) Note the previous setup with the opensouceRF modules works extremely well. I recently tested them while standing outside a locked colour bond shed, and the track inside. I expected some signal issues but it worked fine!! These modules are much dearer though, $25 each as opposed to the bluetooth ones at $6.50 (free post) Drifter Quote www.sydneyslotcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacingJoe Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Just out of curiosity, how do you/what do you need to program a chip?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Most Arduino's are programmed via usb cable, the actual program (IDE) to write and load the code to the Arduino is free. The Arduino pro mini needs an extra USB device, about $5 on ebay. If some one has already written the code part, it can be copied straight to your arduino . Its about as difficult as copying a file to a usb thumbdrive. :-) There are heaps of programs (code) freely available on the net. Writting the code is the 'fun' bit :-) Quote www.sydneyslotcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacingJoe Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Will this system be able to run more than one control? All 6 for digital? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yep, that's the plan :-) Quote www.sydneyslotcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Update.......... Track test today went well . LC etc working fine. Tested from outside the shed (closed) and worked fine. Range seems to be around 15 metres. Some minor changes needed regarding brakes ,but added some extra circuitry and code to smooth that out. Overall it looks very promising. Quote www.sydneyslotcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacingJoe Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Great stuff. I just looked back at the pic at the top and it looks lke you have gone back to using the origonal resistor. What made you drop the hall affect sensor? It would help keep the cost down(which is good), but Im curious about whether the hall affect sensor would be more reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Yes the hall sensor works great. It is a fair bit more work to make, as I plan to make a dozen or so of these controllers for my track it adds up. The hall sensor seems to be beileved to be the 'best thing' but requires a precise mechanism to work. Most controllers have some play in the tigger ,so I challenged myself to find a simple inexpensive way to adapt any controller. Throttle pro's use the resistor with great success , and yes the hall is more expensive (About $5 ea retail, buying 1 at at time) Quote www.sydneyslotcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacingJoe Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 $5 isnt so bad, but over 6 controllers it does add up, especialy after you buy the other stuff. The hall affect sensor would need a different code due to a different signal wouldnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drifter Posted June 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Yes that's right, also there's the brass tube. It was about $15 but enough to make about 10. Also you need the magnets. The signal is coincidently read in the same way, the hall outputs a certain voltage relative to the magnetic field , and the resistor method creates a voltage divider. In summary the Chip reads an analog value and converts it to a number from 0-1024. The resistor method includes the brake button and LC button, but with the hall you need to read these (brake button and LC button ) individually. (more wires, more code ). Quote www.sydneyslotcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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