Jump to content
Keith

Scalextric Digital Track Conductivity

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, like many before me i am having issues with slow sections of track, dead track, and sometimes one side hesitates.

I have followed what i have been told as in tighten joins, clean track, change out sections, monitor with a volt metre ect.,

I have come to the conclusion that copper tape may be the way to go, but before i do this has anyone done it, what was the result, the do's and dont's, guys any advice / help would be appreciated, PLEEEAAASSSSEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Copper tape eventually cracks on every or most joins. Its great for a while, but after a while it sucks. Try selling track with copper tape on it....you wont.

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My cheap copper tape, stuck just over the joins, has lasted well over the last couple of months but it does rip easily. I also found you still need a couple of power taps (wires under the layout connecting the rails) on a long track to maintain the power at the farthest points.

 

More recently, and for a couple of dollars from a craft shop, I've just got some cheap copper wire which you can nestle down between the outside of the rails & the plastic - just & couple of inches across each track joint.

 

I used 0.3 mm but it's a bit loose. 0.4mm or 0.5mm might be better, but it may push your rails together a bit, going on what I've read in another forum so some cars with thicker or longer guide blades might have problems.

 

I've only got a short track and no power drops at the moment so I can't really say if it's effective, but it's cheap & easy.

 

P1110021_zpse4260f46.jpg

Edited by chris99

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Keith,

 

I run a Scaley digital track around 20m with 2 power taps spaced evenly around the track. I tightened all the joints on every track section before I built the track, especially the new track sections as these were actually worse than the older track I had. I only have power problems when I have'nt used the track for a while but a quick wipe with a damp rag and a little Inox MX3 on the braids and Bobs ya uncle. I see that you have mentioned most things except for the Inox MX3, have you tried this on your rails yet?. If you have'nt get down to your local Bunnings (if you have one close) and purchase a spray can for about $13 and apply some to your rails. I have found the easiest way to apply the Inox is to use a rag with one of your fingers and spray some Inox onto the rag and wipe it on the rails only, try not to get any on your track, a little off the rails isn't going to hurt. I do this every couple of months, most other times I just use a small paint brush and put the Inox directly onto the braids only and run a car in each lane as pace cars, you can see the cars picking up speed as the tracks conductivity improves.

I would personally never use copper tape on my layout as I have read all the stories here and elsewhere, some love it , others hate it.

 

Cheers

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers guys, yes i have tried tightening the joints and i do have Inox, i try to keep it clean , i have about 30metres of track and two power supplys running, one would think this is enough, copper tape sounds like it may not be a good idea after all, so i guess its back to the drawing board, any other ideas will be appreciated .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Inox helps with braid to rail conductivity.

Man, I jumped wired every join, ie soldered a 40 mm lengths of wire under the track on every joint, applied copper tape, power taps every 3 m from a seperate power loop, used Inox and still had issues.The best I could get was 95%. I guess the copper tape was a mistake. Its a brilliant short term fix. Long term Im not so sure. I had to score the tape with a knife to get the power to the tape on a regular basis.

 

Rick

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im starting to think sports track was a waste of time, it seems no-one has a fix, i have done most things and still its crap, very dissapointing indeed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Keith,

 

I would'nt give in just yet. I have just gone back and read another thread you started about Scalextric Sports track and problems you had with conductivity issues there. I'm not sure if you followed the advice given by RikoRocket but if your track is 30m long and you don't have any power taps you are bound to lose some power here or there. You say you have dead spots, these are usually easy to find and fix by running your car until it hits the dead/slow section and tapping the joints where the problem is, soon enough you will find the sweet spot and sometimes that little tapping actually fixes the problem. I don't know what your set up looks like, is it flat?,does it have elevatios?, sharp rises in elevations can cause the track to fail. I know where your coming from though as it does get frustrating when the track does'nt perform as it should.

 

Cheers

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know how long my track is, maybe 50 or more metres, but I did not go on length with the initial set up.Just put power taps on every tenth track section, regardless what sort of section, not every ten metres. Never had a single power issue. May have even been an over-kill, but simple enough to do. And worth it.

Cheers

K


"S#!t Happens"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Theres different ways to set up power taps too. Best way is like a bicycle wheel with the spokes being the taps and the axle being the powerbase. Or run a power buss right around the track and tap off that.

Edited by aussieslotter

The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, yes its frustrating but i will just persist with it as i love it, my track is flat on a board no rises ect, , how do you do power taps, and can you make them or is that another expensive part to buy .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you solder? If not practice, practice. Roll of wire from the shop and some solder..... relatively cheap for the result.


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, yes its frustrating but i will just persist with it as i love it, my track is flat on a board no rises ect, , how do you do power taps, and can you make them or is that another expensive part to buy .

A power tap is simply like jumper leads from a track section near the powerbase,( which has to have full power) to a section further along the track, and so on. It just ensures that the whole track is powered evenly. With digital, as it is really one lane you can join/bridge both lanes on a track section and run one pair if cable to where the power is to be sourced. Just make sure positive & negatives aren't crossed.. I think you can buy them, but all too easy to do yourself.


"S#!t Happens"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Buy yourself some wire (red/white), spade connector terminals to suit the Tabs under the scaley full straights and either plug them in place or solder as well (I did both for a better connection). You can do it without the spade bits but I had some handy at the time. As Kenny has said that with digital you can join/bridge both lanes but if you want to run in analogue mode you will have to make sure the lanes are wired individually still, that is lane 1 + to +, - to - , same as lane 2 and so on. If you don't know which is + or - just make sure that each time you connect a wire make sure it is actually connented to the same rail around your circuit.

 

Matt

Edited by mattcrackers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...