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Scale Auto Racing In 2013

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Scale Auto Regulations 2012 (as used in Australia)

 

1.1.0. GENERAL DESCRIPTION

 

(a) The only cars permitted to enter are the Scaleauto Porsche 911 GT3 (997) the Scaleauto BMW M3 GT2 the Scaleauto Jaguar XKR-RSR GT2 and the Scaleauto Mercedes SLS GT3 at 1/24 scale.

 

(b ) It is the responsibility of the racer to ensure that the purchased Scaleauto cars are accurate, complete and without missing parts.

 

(c )An original example of homologated Scaleauto cars as described by Art.1.1.0(a) will be at Technical Control as reference for the Technical Director and Scrutineers. In the case of all disputes, the judgement of the Technical Director will be final and binding.

 

(d) All of the body parts that come with the Scaleauto cars as described in Art. 1.1.0.(a) must be used. See the following Rules-Pictures for additional clarification. If a part is shown in these pictures it must be on the car according to the manufacturer’s intended mounting and location. The only exceptions are as follows: Art. 1.1.5.(h).

 

 

 

1.1.1. MODIFICATIONS

 

(a) It is not permitted to modify the RTR car or white kit in any way other than those parts of free make as described by Art. 1.1.1(b )

 

(b ) Parts of free make are restricted to: (i) nuts, bolts, spacers and washers, (ii) the guide and guide nut, (ii) braid, braid clips & lead wires, (iv) axles (v) axle bearings, (vi) ballast lead weights, (vii) wheel inserts, (viii) spur gear, (ix) pinion gear.

 

(c )Scaleauto tuning parts including the carbon H-plates, spring plates, guides holders, etc. are NOT permitted.

 

 

 

1.1.2. WEIGHT, DIMENSIONS & GROUND CLEARANCE

 

(a) The minimum weight for a complete Scaleauto car is 190g.

 

(b ) The minimum weight for the body with the body mounts and fixing screws attached is 55g.

 

(c )The ground clearance will be measured under the entire RTR car with the guide out of play so that all four wheels sit flat on the tech block.

 

(d) The ground clearance at the start of every race is never less than 1.80mm.

 

(e) The ground clearance during or at the end of any race is never less than 1.40mm.

 

(f) Additional weighting of the body can only be applied to the vertical surfaces of the plastic reinforcing strips within the boundaries as shown in this picture.

 

Additionalbodyweightposition.jpg

 

(g) The distance from the top of the H plate to the bottom of the chassis plate is never more than 4.0mm.

 

 

 

1.1.3. CHASSIS (only non-drop arm).

 

(a) The chassis must be assembled with screws and/or nuts and bolts using the original mounting holes.

 

(b ) The chassis must be assembled in the exact manner and orientation of the production RTR car.

 

(c )The chassis plates may be flat sanded to remove burrs, sharp edges and swelling.

 

(d) The original mounting holes can be re-countersunk to properly seat the screws.

 

(e) The original MSC/Scale Auto logo on the bottom face of the main chassis plate must remain visible to the Technical Control.

 

(f) The original chassis plates, parts and metal body holders can not be repainted or refinished in any way.

 

(g) The length of the guide blade cannot exceed 27,0 mm and this guide blade is the only part of the chassis that may enter the track's slot.

 

(h) No part of the chassis may be visible when viewing the car from above.

 

 

 

1.1.4. MOTOR, GEAR AND PINION

 

(a) The handout motor will be decided by the event organiser, but will be limited to the Scale Auto SC-25 Sprinter or the NSR 25000 King.

 

(b ) Soldering may only be used to attached the lead wires to the motor terminals.

 

(c )Motor coolers or heat dissipating products of any kind are not permitted.

 

(d) Only M50 pitch pinion and spur gears are permitted.

 

(e) The ratio is fixed at 12:44 for the SC -25 Sprinter and 10:44 for the NSR 25000 King.

 

 

 

1.1.5. AXLES, BEARINGS & WHEELS

 

(a) Only solid steel 3 mm diameter axles front and rear are permitted. No independent front axle configurations of any kind are permitted.

 

(b ) Ball bearings for 3mm axles are permitted.

 

(c )Front wheels must be RTR Scaleauto SC 2715P or the standard front rims and tyres as supplied with the RTR cars.

 

(d) Each front wheel must make 7.5mm of contact with the tech block with the guide out of play. Front tires may be hardened and polished.

 

(e) Rear wheels are always RTR Scaleauto SC 2421PP ProComp 3 wheels with 27,5mm OD, 13.0mm wide.

 

(f) Rear tires may not under any circumstances be treated with any kind of tyre dressing, compound or product.

 

(g) Removing dirt, dust and loose rubber particles from the tyres may only be performed with a tape roll or Shellite provided by the Race Direction.

 

(h) All four wheels must be fitted with three-dimensional wheel inserts correct to the car.

 

(i) The wheels may not protrude outside of the body when viewed from above.

 

(j) No car can have a front spur greater than 80mm or rear spur greater than 83mm, measured at the widest point of the front and rear axles.

 

 

 

1.1.6. BODY & INTERIOR

 

(a) All bodies and interiors must be painted.

 

(b ) Fantasy liveries in the spirit of 1:1 motor sport are permitted.

 

(c ) Three number shields typical of 1:1 motor sport are required.

 

(d) The stock rear wing uprights only may be replaced or reinforced with rubber parts of equal or like shape. The Scale Auto Carbon Rear wing may not be used, but the rubber wing mounts supplied with these wings may be used.

 

(e) Only the BMW M3 GT2, MERCEDES-BENZ SLS GT3 and the JAGUAR XKR GT2 are permitted to use the full Scaleauto Lexan Kits including the windows and full interior. The roll cage from the original plastic interior must be refitted to the lexan interior.

 

(f) The hard plastic interior firewall and air ducts does not have to be used with the lexan kit for the JAGUAR XKR GT2.

 

(h) No modifications of the body are permitted other than those described by Art. 1.1.6(a-e).

 

 

 

 

 

7.1.7. ADDITIONAL NOTES & CLARIFICATION TO RACERS.

 

(a) Metal body mounting brackets SC Part No. 8117 can be used in place of the plastic part as first shipped on the Porsche 911 RSR GT3 cars in 2010.

 

(b )nly Scale Auto lexan interior and window kits may be used where allowed.

 

(c ) The gas filler caps in the Mercedes that are molded into the lexan windows should be trimmed away so that the original plastic filler caps are used.

 

(d) When fitting the lexan interior the legs of the roll cage in the Mercedes may be shortened.

 

 

 

END.

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi guys,

 

Started this topic mainly to discuss the 1/24th Scale Auto class. It has proved to be the biggest growing class currently in Aussie and we would like to introduce more guys to it with sprint and endurance races across our great land.

 

The class was raced at the first time at 'worlds' level in 2010 with great success and has continued since with more and more guys embracing the easy to setup and get into format. Especially newbies are delighted to find that the regulations are simple and easy. Very few tune-up parts are allowed and the aim is to use what comes out the RTR box as far as possible.

 

Currently the rules used for racing in Aussie is based on the 2012 MCN as ran in Adelaide earlier this year. These can be found in the post above. These regulations are well proven after a very successful MCN, great 8 hour and many club races throughout 2012.

 

For 2013 only the following changes are being proposed (and this is where the discussion in this thread would probably kick off), everything else to remain UNCHANGED:

 

- The Porsche and Mercedes to be allowed the use of the Scale Auto lexan interior ONLY.

- The Audi and the BMW Z4 will be introduced after complete parity testing has been completed to ensure it is competitive with the other body shapes.

- The guide tongue (holder) may be mounted on top of the T-plate.

- The current motors allowed is limited to the Scale Auto SC-12 and NSR 25000 King, both having to run 10:44 gearing. Or the SC-25 Sprinter and SC-26 Endurance, both having to run 12:44 gearing. However, for specific events a specific motor maybe specified, provided it is a handout motor and the gearing is as above, being 10:44 for 25000rpm (or higher) motors and 12:44 for motors with less than 25000 rpm. However, event organisers are always encouraged to use the Scale Auto motor that is currently being supplied with the RTR cars. Currently this motor is the SC-26 Endurance.

 

Please contribute positively to this discussion so that we can continue to enjoy this great class. Please refrain from personal preferences and always try to suggest improvement that will ensure a grid with all the body shapes. We don not want a single body class. Also, when it comes to motor discussion, first try to stay with the standard out the box option. As for tuning and going faster, please don't allow the introduction of alternate parts and aftermarket parts. We don't want guys spending on stuff they don't need and most of all we don't want a class where every car on the grid is an unknown quantity. We want every driver on the grid to know what is under the car next to him.

 

Thanks for participating in this.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Trevor,

 

Just been racing with guys that have run a 24hour using the short can 13D size SC-15b CLOSED CAN Scale Auto motor without any problems. In fact they reported that all the motors are continued to be used in their club racing after the enduro.

 

We have at least 3 months before any big serious Scale Auto event, so let's all use the SC-26 Endurance motor......and then decide what to do. Anyway for all the big important Scale Auto events we will use hand-out motors so the use of any specific motor at these events will be covered by entry fees and/or sponsorships.

 

Regards,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Sounds good Jan,

 

I'm still using the first motor from my Porsche, it got better with age and is still a good motor.

Definately a great class to race, our club results are always close.

 

- Cam


Hoo Roo

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Guest jazzbell

Hi Jan,

 

I'm going to start with some testing with the new motor and give some feedback .

 

The proposed change of the guide tongue to be allowed to be mounted on top of the T-plate i don't agree with. These cars handle great as they are,so lets just leave it as they are.

 

Yes, for someone like us we can build a car and get the ground clearance down knowing what to do,the average guy doesn't have a clue still.

 

We spoke about the tongue change tonight and the guy's were not keen on change,they would like to keep the cars as they are. Personally i want to be able to run anywhere with just a motor/pinion or gear change if need be.

 

Regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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Shane,

 

Thanks for helping with the SC-26 Endurance motor testing. Always good to get your input.

 

Let me explain the guide tongue/holder suggestion.

 

1 - this has nothing to do with lowering of the ground clearance - the 1.8mm at race start and never less than 1.4mm during or after the race stays as is.

 

2 - Many of the RTR cars have been shipped with uncut guides. Referring to the thickness of the shoe, not the flag. Therefor, when a guy uses the allowed racing front wheels there is no chance that the front wheels can touch the track without either bending the guide holder or fitting a cut-down guide. The bending is not legal and the cut-down guide is more money to be spent.

 

By allowing the guide tongue/holder to be mounted on top of the T-plate (it is not compulsory) a guy can utilise the thick guide he might have received with his RTR car. This is therefor not an improvement of the cars performance but only a way to make sure the standard parts can be used whilst making sure the front wheels touch the track.

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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I hear you Jan. it will be great to get a standard national set of rules so that everyone is on the same page with these cars. Most people i have spoken to think keeping them as standard as possible is the way to go. IF the ground clearance isn't altered and there is no performance benefit i can't see an issue but i still like the idea of running them without tweaks. Would be better if the components were less variable but that's the way it is.

 

Even if the motors are changed out to a standard spec motor i think the gear should always be a 44 to keep things inexpensive for people. Maybe the new gears that come with the new chassis will be a bit stronger than the ones on the initial cars and that will save an aftermarket buy to.

 

It is just such a great class of car that more and more people will enter the world of metal and 1/24 because of the simplicity of them.


4x national champion 6x national runner up. I come second most often but my girlfriends happy.

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As an "outside observer" to Model Car racing, I agree that we need to keep everything as standard as possible so a newbee can buy a new car off the shelf and go racing.

 

I agree to keep the guide section in it's standard position - a cut down guide costs peanuts (cheaper by the dozen) and keeping it in the standard position lowers the overall center of gravity at the front. I doubt any of the top guys would change it's position anyway.

 

Unfortunately the only cars I have seen being sold in SA that already have great quality parts throughout and go well straight out the box are not model cars they are the JK Flexi's.

 

It seems like everyone here to be competative and get reliability, changes at least some of the following on the Scale Auto cars -

- axles (standard ones too soft and bend)

- rear tires to sponge as per rules

-front tires to narrower and lighter Scale Auto sponges

-gears to get a tougher gear with much better mesh (JP etc)

-bearings to Plafit "gold" etc - my Scale Auto bearings developed slop very quickly and were not "smooth"

-better "cut down" guide

-better lead wire

-lexan interior

 

So while I would love to run the cars standard, it is very difficult.

Edited by Rhythm Willie

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Hi Jan,

 

Glad to have someone like yourself overseeing this class for parity and rules.

 

IS there a chance we could get the current rules for each of the cars pinned in this part of the forum! with so much interest and hundreds of posts regarding the Scaleauto 1/24's, the information is scattered.This would make it easier to also up date the info as required. This class has created a lot of interest amongst members on here, so if the info was more readily available in one section it would be a great help.

 

Just an idea

 

Clevo


Resized to 83% (was 1006 x 146) - Click image to enlarge

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Hey Clevo at the moment Jan is overseas he is due back mid November.. I'm sure he could organize something re your idea upon his return..

 

Noel

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Hi Jan,

 

Glad to have someone like yourself overseeing this class for parity and rules.

 

IS there a chance we could get the current rules for each of the cars pinned in this part of the forum! with so much interest and hundreds of posts regarding the Scaleauto 1/24's, the information is scattered.This would make it easier to also up date the info as required. This class has created a lot of interest amongst members on here, so if the info was more readily available in one section it would be a great help.

 

Just an idea

 

Clevo

Hey Clevo at the moment Jan is overseas he is due back mid November.. I'm sure he could organize something re your idea upon his return..

 

Noel

 

 

Hi Clevo,

 

Thanks for your confidence. I will definitely post the rules here before the end of November so that we are all on the same page. In the meantime I'm watching the input.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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We spoke about the tongue change tonight and the guy's were not keen on change,they would like to keep the cars as they are.

 

I think having the option is a good call.

 

If you are not running the raised guide flag and soft braids, I have found you won't get the front wheels on the deck.

I know I was pretty stressed just before the MCN this year trying to work out why my front wheels wouldn't touch the setup board, the reason was the big momma parma braids.

What happens if you snap a guide in practise and cant get any raised guides? New guys probably wont even know they what they are.

Allowing the plate to be on the top or bottom just adds a bit of freedom with guide/braid choice and ease of passing scruitineering and makes things much easier IMO.

 

- Cam


Hoo Roo

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Hi ,

I'm just setting up my car now and am interested to know more on the raised guide

Could someone give me a part number please?

I've checked the scaleauto catalogue is it the proguide SC-1626 or narrow pro guide SC -1624

Cheers


Cheers

Mike

 

Diamo Stages

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rsclio,

 

I just use a "cut down" (Jet,Parma,Koford, Redfox etc) guide for all classes of 1/24th racing(I have around 30 of them) and you can then get exact front chassis height by using 5 or 10 thou guide spacers (or none). Once you have the front chassis height where you want it then getting front tires to just touch is via their diameter (best to run "minimum") or shims under the front axle holders.(i.e washers or 5 thou plastic etc)

 

If you use a "normal" non cut down guide it makes it much more difficult to get your minimum front clearance without lots of mucking around for IMO a poorer result. Using a non cut down guide results in a higher centre of gravity at the front (because the guide tongue assembly has to be at least 1/16th higher than using a cut down guide.)

Edited by Rhythm Willie

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Why don't you just allow people to bend the guide tongue a little ? can't see the harm in that . Saves putting the guide holder 3 - 4mm higher on the chassis .

 

The scaleAuto guide is a beauty , Most people would be happy to use it if they can get the front wheels on the track

Edited by paulthetexan

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I do not agree with allowing the guide plate to be moved as this will instantly allow the cars to be built in two different configurations. The new driver may choose to go with a low profile guide the experienced driver beside him may choose a thick heeled guide, the experienced driver will be faster irrespective of where the guide plate is. It may be the other way around but in theory the experienced driver will be faster... No amount of explaining to some new racers will convince them that the speed of the other driver is due to their experience not the guide plate position. I'm just trying to take a variable out of it and besides the guide is open any way with in the rules. At a cost of about $3 or so it's one of the cheaper items to be replaced. I think a Plafit guide MR 24 is the low profile guide which should allow the guide plate to be left in its original position. Im not sure what the Scale Auto part # is . I have been lucky as 4 out of 5 my SA cars came with low profile guides. In saying all of this I race in classes now where I don't agree with all of the rules so for me nothing will change it will still be my favourite class by a long shot.

 

Noel

 

 

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Guest jazzbell

We must be lucky with our cars we buy here in Adelaide,not one person has confronted me or even spoke of the front wheels not touching the set up boards. Either they spent $5 dollars on a guide and have'nt bothered to metion they had the problem.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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My Audi R8 came standard with the non cut down guide and the mounting plate on top. I had to use spacers to get the guide down further into the slot.

 

Putting the mounting plate on the bottom raised the front wheels off the track.

 

Mike


Regards

Mike

 

Team Funhouse Racing

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Whaaat... ? never saw that before. Has anyone else had a Factory Built Scaleauto come with guide tongue bolted on top?

Mind you, anythings possible with cheap labour. Expensive Australian labour bolted My new Falcon ute's back axle with an offset so bad it rubbed on the inner ute tray.. The moral of the story is.. One factory stuff up does not make it a "standard" fitting.

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Just to throw the cat in with the pigeons..........I had my scale auto guide split and a braid fell out during a race so I fitted a std plafit guide, to do this I have put four washers under the plate that holds the guide holder and left the holder in the original position, this has a perfect height at 1.8mm with racing wheels. car is fast, handles well just needs a good driver B)


Paul NZ - Scale with Detail!

 

Narangba Club Local

 

Gold Coast Raceway 09

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Cut down guides have been around for many years, I don't see any need to change the chassis rule.

 

Does anyone know of a local (Oz) supplier of decent soft braids? The original Parma braids (not Big Mamma) might be good but if they're still produced I can't find them. Plafit braids do not inspire me.


Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

 

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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This is a great thread... Gee, guide plate on top or leave it where it is.. Tough decision. Thats what is so fantastic about this class. Other than changing something that wears out anyway.. the guide shoe, this is a simple as it gets. Personally, I'm keen to keep the class as "pure" as possible so I am in favour of leaving the guide plate where it is.

I am suprised at how much I enjoy the Scaleauto class. I've never considered myself a collector before but I cant help but get every new Scaleauto that comes out.

And that folks is the answer... Most that get into Scaleauto wont stop at one...

As for performance parity I think its great we can try a selection of cars and pick the right one to suit the circumstances. As Shane said with the SA 8 hour, they picked the car that was the easiest for all to drive.. not the fastest.

Each track in the country will have a favourite car for that particular track. That means newbies straight away will be steered to get the car that suits the track they will race on 99% of the time with minimun changes and standard motor. For this reason I like the idea of a good handout motor for special events because again this in no way impacts the choice of motor you run at "your local"

I think the parity thing is good but actually feel Scaleauto has almost achieved this (by default) with the Lexan windows and interior.

Its just not possible to have every car on similar lap times on every track so I dont see the need to keep changing interiors and windows. Car performance is a variable factor with an uncertain answer.

With the chassis being so heavy and the bodies (with lexan) being comparativly light ( love the controlled pan sizes) each car has its own merit on different tracks, conditions and drivers.. Lets leave it that way.

 

Just out of curiosity. Would like comments on which Scaleauto car is fastest on your track.

Edited by axman

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Does that mean those that ran a Merc this year, with a lexan interior, and had to cut the roll cage to fit and can't put it back in the original interior, will now have to spend money to buy another interior to suit the rules ????.. I agree Kim, keep it basic, like the cars....

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Does that mean those that ran a Merc this year, with a lexan interior, and had to cut the roll cage to fit and can't put it back in the original interior, will now have to spend money to buy another interior to suit the rules ????.. I agree Kim, keep it basic, like the cars....

 

Hi Peter,

 

I think you are missing something here. Nobody is suggesting you change the Merc lexan interior back to the hard plastic interior.........only the lexan window.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Guest jazzbell

Hi guy',

 

Was not in favour in the tongue change,view has been swayed now on the release of the new bling chassis cars that i've checked out. Some cars have been released with tongue on top and others below. My first bling chassis i did build was from a RTR new Merc which the tongue was below. Thought nothing of it when mike commented his car came with the tongue on top.

 

Pulled some more new cars out,tongues are up and down. So i think we have to give the option for the racers to build the cars either on top or below now. Have noticed with the tongue on top,the wheels do touch know problems, but now the guide sticks a foot out the slot. Easy fixed with some washes.

 

 

new one out the box

tounge001.jpg

 

tounge002.jpg

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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