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Mohawkk

Painting With An Airbrush

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I Decided to start a thread on painting with an airbrush as i have just aquired one.

 

Put all your tips and tricks here and hopefully we can get a good resource for other people.

Also share your experiences, with what you have bought and used.

 

As I have only just got mine, I'll let someone who knows what they are talkiing about go first.


Love,

Kai smileyhawk.jpg

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I bought a Paasche H but I haven't used it yet. My choice was influenced by my experience with (an admittedly crappy) dual-action internal mix airbrush, of which I bent the needle on cleaning it and have never used again. The external mix design of the Paasche gets rid of that danger.

 

So I am interested to see how others have gone with their airbrushes.

 

I am getting closer to doing some, but the weather isn't good at the moment. I still need to set up an air supply. Ember suggested a compressed air tank with a regulator somewhere else and I might do that yet, as my dad a very loud compressor used for other things that could be used to fill the tank in day time and allow silent running with that in evenings for some time.

 

I spoke to one of the guys at the Orient Express model train shop recently when buying some Floquil lacquer primer (definitely airbrush only stuff, don't paint it on with a brush!) last week and he said that he used to have a dual action but switched to the Paasche H set (with the three different tips) and really likes it, finds it very easy to clean and use, and that it much less likely to clog. He sprays the Floquil unthinned through it (personally I would think that would be a bit grainy, but it obviously didn't clog). The downside of course is that it doesn't have the adjustability of a dual-action or the fine line capability.


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Hi Embs,

I got a Delta dual action, gravity fed airbrush. It comes with 3 tips and a spare couple of long needle things.

I also got a 24ltr air compresser for $88 from that hardware store. It has a regulator on it but i do need to get a moisture trap. I also needed an adaptor for the hose 1/4in > 5/6in i think.

 

Burglar,

I have read your stuff in the other thread, (but as that was a bit of a brush Vs cans thing) I thought it better to start a new thread. It might be worthwhile copy/pasting some of that here. hopefully we can get lots of good info and pin this thread

 

Now my experience so far (1 whole weekend) has been mixed, no doubt due to my poor technique. Painting an old body that has not been washed or preped at all.

I am using tamiya acrylics but i have not thinned them yet and i am getting orange peel effect. The cold weather is probably causing some problems, but i am working under a warm work light and making sure the body is warm before painting.

Over all, so far i am not disappointed, There is a lot less over spray, a lot more precise and i think that once i learn a bit more the better the finish will be.


Love,

Kai smileyhawk.jpg

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I've got a Paasche dual action internal mix. And not used it enough to really feel comfortable with it yet. But I've not needed to thin fresh Tamiya acrylics. Old ones, well, that's another matter. In fact, I've shot some that probably should've been filtered because they've had dry crud in them from the rim of the jar.

 

I know at the moment I'm inclined to use more air than required (I still haven't got the hang of the dual action) but I've achieved a fairly good result with a single coat of Tamiya transparent colour over a silver base, using the a No 5 needle and tip to get a good coverage with the thicker, old paint.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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My understanding is that Floquil lacquer is mainly for model rail road and does not give the gloss finish that other testors products give.

I only use automotive acrylic so my air brush setup are all for that paint. I use it as it dries very fast and is very hard.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thought this online magazine may be of interest. It is mainly 1:1 stuff, but is full of really great airbrush images.

http://www.airvolution.com.au/


Gort, Klaatu barada nikto.

 

My poor Krell!

After a million years of shining sanity...

they could hardly have understood what power was destroying them.

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It has a regulator on it but i do need to get a moisture trap. I also needed an adaptor for the hose 1/4in > 5/6in i think.

 

 

 

I am using tamiya acrylics but i have not thinned them yet and i am getting orange peel effect. The cold weather is probably causing some problems, but i am working under a warm work light and making sure the body is warm before painting.

 

 

 

 

Hi Kai, a tip for the water trap is to make sure it is a good few metres from the compressor! . Never have the water trap directly from the compressor, as when the air first comes out its Hot, and by passes the trap, it's when it cools down its forms condensation.

 

I wouldnt worry to much about the orange peel for your first time painting. Its all just practice and experience. Practice spraying on old Alu cans or what ever you find fit that has a smooth surface. THe orange peel is because of a few things. Air pressure, paint thickness & paint needle set up (and how you apply the paint). Everyone will have there own favorite configuration, so have a bit of fun painting other stuff, just remember what the setting and mixtures are.

 

Painting is a piece of cake, Its all hand eye co-ordination for the finish. Its the prep work which is the hardest.

 

Great thread, and looking forward to reading others tips and experiences. I use a touch up spray gun for most of my work. The air brush only gets used for painting fine detail work, like the race numbers.

 

Clevo

Edited by Cleveland

Resized to 83% (was 1006 x 146) - Click image to enlarge

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www.howtoairbrush.com has some great tips and its free, lots of how-to videos and lots of tricks a great spot for the newbys and the pro, check out the gallery some fine artists

 

I use an Iwata its works fine for me

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Nice move Kai,starting this thread.

Have a look at my SCX proxy entry when it comes your way to see how bad first timers can make it look!

I'm trying to find a good resource that will tell me how to set the needle and nozzle up and what pressure I should be banging the air out at.

 

I've just got a one or two litre compressor unit which sits on your desk and the cheap and nasty gravity fed double action that came with it. Guess I need to buy a decent dual action airbrush and get experimenting.

 

Lastly - is there an easy undercoat to use through the airbrush - or do I need to keep buying rattle cans?


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A couple of brief suggestions : air pressure around 20 to 25 Psi is plenty.

Main thing is to ensure the paint is thinned correctly for the airbrush set up you are using.

Set the pressure and then thin the paint until it will give a good spray fan from the brush.

Main problem I have seen is that most air brushes are sod with a small fluid tip that is for water based artists paints. Model paints need a larger fluid tip.

Duel action brushes are great for very fine detail, but do take some time to get used to the operation, if you are only going to paint slot car bodies then a single action brush is fine and a little easier to learn.

 

Snurfen any undercoat should be able to be sprayed thru your airbrush. More info will always help, paint type ,brush type etc.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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My understanding is that Floquil lacquer is mainly for model rail road and does not give the gloss finish that other testors products give.

 

I'm only using it as a primer, and the main reason being that it apparently covers brass and other metals well in addition to the plastic. I've been warned about its solvent properties, but apparently it is safe on plastic in thin coats from an airbrush due to it drying quicker than way. On no account should it be applied to plastic with a brush or in heavy spray coats, as it will dissolve the plastic.

 

Kai if you are only practicing not cleaning the work first is okay, but you should expect to see some problems like 'fish eye'. I do think it is a bit cold to paint at the moment, at least here in Adelaide. I painted some aluminium wheels black with a rattle can recently, but not game to do much more than that.

 

Phil, yes the single action is probably all most people need. With your paint choice I would think that the less finicky the better, as you say the more expensive airbrushes are designed to spray inks. A lot of people have success spraying Tamiya acrylic through an airbrush, but something like an automotive paint would probably be better through an external mix single action brush, just because the mechanism is simpler and easier to clean. I've seen an airbrush cleaning instructiuonal

where someone sprayed latex through a Paasche H ... I wouldn't try spraying that past a fine needle!

 

 

EDIT: I also found this video useful:

 

Edited by Burglar

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Great work guys & girl.

 

Time for me read some of the links, but first i really need to turn down the PSI.

Phil, What % should the paint be thinned( in your exp)/ or is it more of a trial and error/

Good tip about the moisture trap Clevo, I wouldnt have known better and put it right off the compressor. you saved me from making that mistake.


Love,

Kai smileyhawk.jpg

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The only addition to the conversation I can make is at this time of year I always make sure to warm the paint before use.

 

It drives my wife mental when she sees little paint bottles lined up on the lounge-room window sill but if I forget I warm them next to oil filled column heater in the garage.

 

Gets pretty chilly in Canberra around now but I haven't had any issues.

 

Chris.


Late Model

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The only addition to the conversation I can make is at this time of year I always make sure to warm the paint before use.

 

It drives my wife mental when she sees little paint bottles lined up on the lounge-room window sill but if I forget I warm them next to oil filled column heater in the garage.

 

Gets pretty chilly in Canberra around now but I haven't had any issues.

 

Chris.

 

Paint warming tip,...........Place a tin/bottle with the amount of paint you want to use in a container of warm water. Works an absolute treat and keeps everyone happy.

 

Clevo


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Kai: I only use Auto Acrylic so my info is only for that. If it is straight from the can I thin with around 75 % thinner. If it is from a spray can of touch up paint it will need less thinner some where around 40 %. These are only a guide as brands do vary in viscosity. A good guide is that the paint will flow easily off the mixing stick and just leave some thin colour. The amount of thinner needed will vary depending on the needle and tip fitted to your air brush.

I use only Badger internal mix Brushes for slot car bodies,one fitted with a medium needle/tip and the others fitted with large needle/tip.

The Paasche are used for water colour and inks.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Phil,

Where do you get your auto paint from, and is there any reason for using that over hobby paints/


Love,

Kai smileyhawk.jpg

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Here is what i have been upto today, Still just playing around getting used to the airbrush so this is just on the back of my race box.

 

flames.jpg

 

Not too bad considering i have not drawn anything for years, There was a fair bit of bleeding because of the way i masked it, but it cleaned up O.K.


Love,

Kai smileyhawk.jpg

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Kai: Auto paint dries out much faster than hobby paint and is much harder that hobby paints. Second colour can be applied the same day. This is handy as I am always rushing to paint my cars before a race! I still have some tinters left from "the old days" when I painted 1:1 cars and when i need a colour I don't have or cannot scrounge from a mate I simply but spray touch up cans from Supercheap, repco etc. I dispense it into the spray jar as i need it.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well, I just bought a decent airbrush compressor on ebay, I don't seem to be spending much money recently so I guess it was burning a hole in my pocket ...

 

I'll get the chance to have a go at some painting soon. Bought it from a place in Rozelle, NSW, but I got it from their ebay store and saved a heap of money compared to what they charge you if you walk in the store. Weird that.

 

 

Artlogic AC2418 twin-cylinder 1/3HP mini air compressor with a 3.5L tank,with a moisture trap and pressure regulator, max 60psi and 48Db..

 

These are only like a foot long by a foot high so it sits nicely on the bench top:

 

ojgi1l.jpg

 

 

Hopefully I will get a chance to use it as the weather starts warming up again and I will be able to give a report then. It sprays water through the Paasche-H nicely!

 

 

 

ws8kxv.jpg

 

I also picked up an Iwata Eclipse BP-BS dual-action airbrush on ebay. Seems like a good idea to have two airbrushes that can do completely different things. The Paasche H for larger areas, primers, and clear coats, and this Iwata for detail work. Truth be told I probably won't use this one much for slot cars, but I have some armour models that I am slowly working on.

 

Also, I forgot to post this useful link earlier. Interesting how different people's views of the same unit can be:

 

http://modelingmadne...brushsurvey.htm

 

Here's a book that while not great generally does focus more than most on car modelling:

 

http://www.kalmbachs....com/12426.html

 

You can find the first edition online if you know where to look for pdfs ... the sample chapters provided on the link above are the same as in the first edition, but the new one has a new chapter on a GT40 and some other stuff. Personally I think this book is okay for the beginner, that's probably about the extent of it. If you can get it free though it's worth having. It's basically a repackaging of old articles from Fine Scale Modeller.

Edited by Burglar

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So any more feedback on peoples airbrushing efforts?

 

Mine has just arrived - I got an Iwata HP-CS - dual action gravity feed- nice unit

Last couple of days I've been spraying paper towel with food colouring and water and slowly getting the hang of it.

I have had a couple of goes at undercoating though

It's great compared to rattle cans in getting nice thin layers of paint on

I've got some Vallejo paints to use once I get going


Cheers

Mike

 

Diamo Stages

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No, not yet. I've got all the gear set up but not had the weather and/or time to get into it yet.

 

With acrylics you can probably get away without a booth and mask, but if you start using xylene or other solvent based paints you will need them for the sake of your health. I got a good mask from the hardware shop, it is called something like 'Spraysafe' and comes with filters for under $50. I got a booth off ebay with vent hose delivered for $110. This is the same booth sold by Paasche and others for much more. I also got a 'spray work' stand from Tamiya that includes two stands, a turntable and one especially for car bodies.

 

2cfd4sj.jpg

 

I have two airbrushes, a Paasche H and an Iwata HP-BS Eclipse. Looking forward to trying them out when summer comes.


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