SlotsNZ Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 I have done my best to avoid front engined cars, but being too impatient to wait till Racer bring out their version, I decided to "have a crack Nig" at the Revell offering. After the first stage of development, I ran it at Mac's Thursday night, and it was lapping in 7.7s (compare this with the Auto-Art Porsche 997 he was running at 7.5 in the other thread started today. Mac could probably get a 7.5 out of this, it being his home track. In the pics below, I have replaced the stock Rubber with slot.it F1 tyres, F22 compound, and turned them down on the truer to 19.7mm O.D. Trued the fronts, and raised the front axle about 0.5mm to drop the front end. I replaced the tiny Revell guide with a Slot.it guide and soft braid. Now it sits full depth in the slot. Shaved off the cups in the chassis so the body posts can move around with loose screws. Removed all the chokes off the motor - about 5 altogether, crazy. Added about 10gms lead in the centre and 3 at back. That was still 6/10ths a second slower than a Fly Racing Capri, same track same night. Worst handling characteristic is that it would erratically front deslot and body roll, so you couldn't push it, because you never knew how it would take the same corner from lap to lap. So today I have "had another crack at it. [Nig]" As the Revell motor revved like crazy, but lacked torque and thus lacked brakes (almost none); I swapped it for a Slot.it yellow bell that I had cut off the bell end of the motor shaft so it doesn't foul the front axle. It is actually slightly slower now in a straight line if anything, but has more punch, and medium brakes. I may go back and fit an 8 tooth pinion to gear it down more, and make the type of acceleration and braking closer to the Fly Racing Capris. Ran the super-glue collar trick on the axle bushes, and driveshaft bush. Dremelled away some body material on the side wings, under the central pan, and around and cut 1mm off the front body posts to drop it a bit. Needs the body screws replaced, but that requires filling the body post holes and re-drilling, and also adapting the chassis so smaller thread and head screws can be used, which have a smooth shaft to stop fouling on the body. Also added another 3gms lead at back, total 6 grams, and 3 grams blu-tak at front as an experiment in removable weight (I find Blutak great for experimentation. I replace it later with the same weight of lead or tungsten.) On my track which is tighter and more windy than Macs, the Capri has the natural advantage, even though it is slower than the BMW in a straight line. It is now easier to push hard, but still not as easy to drive as the Capris, which feel like magnet cars on plastic. I got the Capri to about 5.70 today, and the Revell is still 0.2 slower, but getting closer. A bit more weight adjustment, better body float and freeing up the rear axle bushes which are creating a little friction at present after the "collar", should get it into the 5.7s. I should be able to get a 7.4 - 7.5 on Mac's now. If anyone has tips on tuning these - I am all ears. I'd love to get it good enough to play against the Fly Racing Capris (we run these with NSR Vanquish hubs and 14mm wide supergrips or ultragrips.) Here's a quick clip, last complete lap is 5.88 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiep-u_8EN4 Quote Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict * Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose ) * Total kidder * Companion of other delusional slot addicts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slotmadmac Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 That looks good - and definitely seemed fast and pretty stable in the clip. We need a front engined class. Mac Quote Podiums are for short people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvmyre Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 That looks good - and definitely seemed fast and pretty stable in the clip. We need a front engined class. Mac What is there to choose from? Quote 5 x National Champion 2 x National Enduro Champion 2 x HBMRC V8 Supercar Enduro Champion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slotmadmac Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 Most of the FLY and Revell catalogue Quote Podiums are for short people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonh Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 hi just wondering how hard is it to change the spring on the motor? i have a fly alfa 147 gta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlotsNZ Posted May 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Hi Jason some seem to be tighter than others - both on Fly and Revell cars. This one wasn't too hard, I just levered it off carefully using a small screwdriver. Some need more forceful push, and I believe the tested method is to use a pair of needle nose pliers to push at it from both sides of the driveshat simultaneously. Just don't bend it, as they never work balanced and smooth again if you do. Quote Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict * Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose ) * Total kidder * Companion of other delusional slot addicts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonh Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 ok thanks will try just for fun i might make a front wheel drive only car see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlotsNZ Posted May 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 ok thanks will try just for fun i might make a front wheel drive only car see what happens BMW Racing have an old saying "Front wheel drive is of the devil" and in slot cars that is certainly true. Or you could go plain silly and belt drive it for 4WD....... Quote Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict * Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose ) * Total kidder * Companion of other delusional slot addicts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMR Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 (edited) Re the spring conector in the drive shaft , on a 1/24th 1950s GP car I built as an inline with the motor moved forward for balance I used a brass tube , soldered it on . To balance the shaft I heated the brass tube while the thing was running then as it cooled it centred itself to run true with no out of balance wobble . That said the chassis and rear shaft bushing tube (back by the rear axle) were all metal so heat transfer down the drive shaft wasnt a problem - it would probably work with super glue to hold the tube in place , I used solder because there was a Plafit Cheetah II driving the thing - bit more grunt in the Cheetah compared to the Revell motor . PS Nice track , and a good build "show how" thread - nobody down my way is interested in racing front motors cars , pity as there are quite a few nice looking cars out there in slotland to buy Edited May 28, 2012 by BMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLY in the wall Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Who was it said it's like deja vu all over again. http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63403 Quote Outside the box looking in. ------------------------------------ You don't own stuff: Stuff owns you! ------------------------------------ Having a cold drink on hot day with a few friends is nice, but having a hot friend on a cold night after a few drinks - PRICELESS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMR Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Slotforum - they get all their best information from Auslot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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