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Garry J

How Do You Run In Your Motors?

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A bit of plastic tube might work as a flexible coupling.

 

Thanks gents,

 

I had nothing fancy in mind, I was going to use an old slot motor and some RC nitro silicon fuel line as a flexible coupler and clamp them to a board. I just bought a mini lathe (my Colchester with 700mm swing is a tad too big for slot cars!!), but using it to run in slot motors is still a bit of an overkill.

 

If all we are trying to do is seat the brushes and bearings, I guess it cant hurt.

 

- Cam


Hoo Roo

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Cam,

 

What mini lathe did you get?

 

The motor died on my unimat and it's not really worth spending any money on.


Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

 

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Hey Gary,..when 'Hutcho' got back into Retro racing with us some time back,..he did a fair bit of searching around to find a suitable Smallish Mini lathe and seemed to end up with a rather Nice one, which did Not cost the earth.

 

From 'Hutcho's' personal background you could imagine he would Not put up with anything lousy.

I will check with either Fox or Hutcho to see if I can find out what Brand/Model it was if you like,..I seem to recall a Lot of it was 'Red' !!

 

Chat soon

:)

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I seem to recall a Lot of it was 'Red' !!

 

If it was new and red, fair chance it is a Sieg which is the one I purchased.

Seems pretty good.

 

Will send you a pm Gary.


Hoo Roo

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Shane A has a lathe to. He thinks it is the ants pants maybe PM him. Jazzbell

Do ants really wear pants?


Gort, Klaatu barada nikto.

 

My poor Krell!

After a million years of shining sanity...

they could hardly have understood what power was destroying them.

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I have a Sieg C3 lathe and a Sieg X3 mill which I converted to CNC.

 

The C3 is a bit big for the stuff I used to do on the unimat and I can't really justify the price of a C1 for the little stuff. Just have to make do I guess.

 

Sieg stuff is basic chinese quality and you need to do some work on them to bring them up to scratch but you can't beat the price. On the other hand the mill has less and less of the original parts as time goes on. The last thing to go was the DC drive so I replaced the motor and drive with a 750 watt AC motor and a VF drive. The original motor was rated at 750 watts too but they must have smaller watts in China cause it wouldn't pull a sailor of your sister.

Edited by Garry J

Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

 

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Can you believe my Unimat motor has failed also ... Ripped of, I've only had it for 35 years!

Have also been looking at the Sieg.. But where do you stop. Base model (# co) is only $499 but spend another $250 for the (c1) and you get an extra 125mm of bed and the optional for powered lead screw feed (for thread cutting). The way use your head Garry ( for making exceptional slot stuff ) I reckon you need the 1/2 hp C3 .. Get ready to spend $1000

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Doh! Just saw your later post?.. There must be a Unimat motor replacement out there somewhere..

Edited by axman

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Kim, all it needs is brushes but I can't find any. Even took it to a motor repair place and they couldn't help me with something close I could shape to fit.

 

Funny thing is many years ago I was the maintenance manager at a large plastics factory in Sydney and we had hundreds of spare brushes of every size you can imagine. If only.


Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

 

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Garry,

 

Have you ever tried running motors in under water?

 

1-2 volts 30 seconds to a minute, blow the water out with an air compressor, re oil and go racing.

  1. The idea is it will allow you ro run the motor cooler and hence faster during a race and while running them in under water the brush dust does not settle on the comm.

Plucka

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Garry,

 

Have you ever tried running motors in under water?

 

1-2 volts 30 seconds to a minute, blow the water out with an air compressor, re oil and go racing.

  1. The idea is it will allow you ro run the motor cooler and hence faster during a race and while running them in under water the brush dust does not settle on the comm.

Plucka

Is this the famous PLUCKA that we have not heard from for a while? Welcome back.


Gort, Klaatu barada nikto.

 

My poor Krell!

After a million years of shining sanity...

they could hardly have understood what power was destroying them.

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Yes sir,

 

Slowly looking at getting back into all forms of racing.

 

I stepped foot into my first slot car center in about the other week and got my butt whooped so thats got the blood going again lol

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Yes sir,

 

Slowly looking at getting back into all forms of racing.

 

I stepped foot into my first slot car center in about the other week and got my butt whooped so thats got the blood going again lol

Is Hayley also back in to it?


Gort, Klaatu barada nikto.

 

My poor Krell!

After a million years of shining sanity...

they could hardly have understood what power was destroying them.

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Plucka,

 

I've used the water run in technique before, and I know it's recommended by some people who should know (Monty Ohrens from BoW for one) but I guess I'm just a creature of habit and when I find something that works for me I tend to stay with it.

 

Two things I don't like about the water technique, it messy, especially with open can style motors like G27 and G7 and it puts a lot of load on the motor, which is why it only takes 30 seconds to run in. But it is a valid method.


Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

 

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Guest jazzbell

Have to say over the years I've come to the conclusion how much is the benefit in running in a motor. My view on motors is if you have a good one it's a good one,a dog is a dog then theirs the average,know matter how i run them in.

 

Personally i'm talking our closed can motors,NSR,PLAFIT ect.......Some of these motors i have to change my ways in running them in,as fully submerged takes the labels off when rules state labels must be fully intact .

 

I buy in bulk always.First i Rev,torque,current draw, do all my testing of the motors to find my good ones and i'm pretty spot on whats good and whats not. This way i place my motors in their categories ,good the dog and average. Hate to say this is my best method of running in.

 

Now that i have my motors i've then run each one in the same way and the end result ends up being

the same always,the good is good the dog is a dog and the average is average.

 

Please can someone explain this to me,what about the man who just throws a car together know love goes into the motor off they go and the motors a rocket..............why is this so.

 

regards shane a

 

team thunderbird

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Shane,

 

ha ha the old luck of the draw lol.

 

I have never used the water trick or the plafit motors but have sith the SCX motors.

 

For these motors i found with running them in under water the brush dust does not settle in the endbell (i have heard this causes some current draw through all the static from all the particals), doing this for g7s and 27s is probably no good Garry lol.

 

In my line of work i am only interested in horse power and bucket loads in short burst so the water trick is a fast way of running in the motor and cleaner, i have refined it a little for curcuit racing (more the sprint formats) plus it helps having a dyno allows me to monitor changes before i hit the track lol.

 

Each method has always worked and like Garry i like the water method so i stick to it otherwise chopping and changing can affect the program.

 

Brian, If Hayley can get off night shift we may hit the tracks later in the year but for now ill be working on getting to some dapto events and armchair events and the odd HSC race.

 

Plucka

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Would there be any benefit running the motor in using your procedure with no power to stop arcing, ie use another motor to spin it?

 

I read somewhere that this doesn't work as intended as there is still arching as the spun motor is acting as a generator.

 

As for running in in general. When I used to build 1:1 race engines we would scrape the back of the shells until they were blued on the front side with a mottled pattern. Took hours. Did it do any good? Did it help win races? Who knows but like running in slot car motors it was just one of the steps I/we went through at least if we didn't win we knew we had done most everything.


Outside the box looking in.

------------------------------------

You don't own stuff: Stuff owns you!

------------------------------------

Having a cold drink on hot day with a few friends is nice, but having a hot friend on a cold night after a few drinks - PRICELESS.

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I am not mechanical at all but with a sealed can motor I think all you are doing is bedding in the brushes and maybe cleaning the com a little? I think Shane's observation is pretty accurate. Good ones are good and pigs are pigs. I read on an scx forum a guy who took the motor apart aligned everything shaped the brushes and did all the wonderful tricks and it gave a net benefit of 4 percent. With a sealed motor it would be considerably less than that.


4x national champion 6x national runner up. I come second most often but my girlfriends happy.

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hi guys , how then is it best to clean up sealed motors, ya scaley and ninco nc series, was told metho and water , but well also told to glue everythng , so hence motor glued in and axle and rims , am think that water and metho on tyres etc not good , havent tried yet , so where to from here ?

 

 

thanx in advance

 

toast

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