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Springbok Racer

Oapr (Lmp) Chassis Options

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Hi guys,

 

The Red Roo is a chassis that has been developed with the new OAPR rule set in mind and is currently available from me (it was manufactured by Nick De Wachter and you are very welcome to have a look at his website for other alternatives).

 

Anyway I thought it a good idea to post a "How to" for the Red Roo, that will not only explain how the chassis is assembled, but also how it fit's the available LMP bodies.

 

So how do you get from a bag of carbon and brass bits, to this?:

 

IMGP2835.jpg

 

Well after getting all your pices together and opening the Red Roo bag, you start with the motor box:

 

IMGP2803.jpg

 

Then you add the NSR 25 King motor (please ignore the fact that I photographed a Scale Auto SC-12 motor):

 

IMGP2805.jpg

 

Then add the rear axle holders (fronts are the shorter and rears the taller of the two sizes - both sets are packed seperately to avoid this), the springs and put it onto the base plate. I suggest you don't tighten the motor bracket (onto the motor) at the rear until you've added the axle and spur gear to get the gear mesh perfect. Once you done that you can take the spur gear of and tighten both the motor bracket screws.

 

IMGP2807.jpg

 

Now grab the front pieces:

 

IMGP2m809.jpg

 

....and add the front axle holders and guide tongue to the T-plate:

 

IMGP2811.jpg

 

Next marry the front sub assembly to the rear and base plate assembly. Add the other bits (2 x 3mm wide axle spacers on the rear and 2 x1.5mm wide axle spacers on the front axle) to make up a running chassis and wah lah:

 

IMGP2812.jpg

 

Before you mount your selected body, take a few measurements so as to cut the body mounting rubber to the correct width and length. First check how wide the body mounting is;

 

IMGP2815.jpg

 

Then how wide the body is:

 

IMGP2816.jpg

 

...and how wide the body mounting plates are:

 

IMGP2819.jpg

 

Now cut the rubber so that it will sit nicely on the body mounting plates, in the correct position and will at the same time overhang enough to reach the inside of the body sides:

 

IMGP2821.jpg

 

At this stage I suggest you add some spacers to the body plates to stop any possible movement, you can always remove them later to get the correct body movement again. (This is in fact a generic suggestion for mounting bodies to model car chassis). This will ensure that the body mounts perfectly and that the glue will dry correctly without any of the bonding surfaces being pushed into an incorrect position during the mounting and drying:

 

IMGP2823.jpg

 

Now put some contact adhesive on the rubber and the body mount plates and let it dry until touch dry before putting it in place on the body mounts:

 

IMGP2825.jpg

 

This is what it will look like from above:

 

IMGP2830.jpg

 

...and from the bottom:

 

IMGP2829.jpg

 

I always use some fibre reinforced tape on the inside of the body where the rubber will be glued:

 

IMGP2827.jpg

 

Now put some contact adhesive on the body (where you've added the tape) and also on the rubber. Put the body over the chassis WHILE THE GLUE IS STILL WET and position it over the chassis. (It is suggested that you dry fit the body before you add the glue and find some spacers that will hold the body the right height of the track - I use coins for this purpose). Try to resist the temptation to squeeze the body up against the rubber too much, rather let the glue go touch dry again before permanently pushing it down, now let it dry overnight:

 

IMGP2833.jpg

 

Check it the next day:

 

IMGP2841.jpg

 

Remove the body, take the extra spacers out from the body mounts, add the interior and other external body parts and you have a OAPR LMP. With this setup you should be very close to the overall minimum weight limit of 160grams. You will have noticed from the handwritten figures under the rear of the body, that I will have to add 0.6 grams to make this Peugeot legal:

 

IMGP2836.jpg

 

Please don't hesitate to PM me for any specific details regarding the Red Roo or any other chassis you may be contemplating for your OAPR entry. I am very happy to share my knowledge of these cars with anyone wanting to learn about them. At the same time, if you have any positive input and you want to add to this concept for everyones benefit, please go ahead and let us know.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Nice " how to do it " Jan , also very nice paintwork on the bodies , are my eyes decieving me or are the not vacuum formed bodies ?

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Nice " how to do it " Jan , also very nice paintwork on the bodies , are my eyes decieving me or are the not vacuum formed bodies ?

 

Thanks mate. I can put your mind at rest 100% - they are all clear 15thou vacformed lexan bodies.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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ONE TYRE SIZE FITS ALL!

What I like about these new racing classes is how Tyre "friendly" they are. Both the Scale Auto Class GT's and the LMP's (OAPR) use the same tyre and wheel size. The specified size for these classes is the Scale Auto Pro Comp 3 RTR wheel and tyre that starts out at 27.5 Dia x13mm wide on a 21mm rim.

Start them on your Scale Auto GT and run them down to minimun of 27.0 Dia, then switch them to your LMP and run them down to 26.5 dia. By now they are the right size to go onto your 1/24 Group C Hardbody (or lexan) or grind them down for your Mini Z group C or GT.

Stating the obvious, I hope you can afford more than one set of tyres!

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Kim,

 

Actually, there is more to it when you start taking a closer look. This new concept also subscribe to the thinking of " less is more" by adding less to the racers alternative spares in his box to give him more options to race competitively.

 

I'll explain; here is a list of common parts to the Scale Auto GT class - wheels, wheel inserts, axles, spur gear, motor, guide, braid, lead wire, screws, spacers and bearings. We can even go further and point out that the principal chassis concept, compliments, as it can be made up of the very best bits and pieces without a multitude of different tune up kits that 'forces' drivers to invest more and more to stay competitive. The driver now only carries a limited number of consumable parts in stock and is also in a position to swap out between his different cars when he runs out. In fact, if you replaced the standard interior set of your Scale Auto GT with the lexan set, you can use the hard plastic Scale Auto driver head, arms and steering wheel to complete your LMP lexan interior.

 

Less is more - more compatibility between classes, therefor more cash staying in your pocket and more competitive enjoyment because everyone is racing the same stuff without having to buy and try new parts all the time.

 

Once you've driven an OAPR car, you will enjoy the 'old' stuff less and enjoy these more.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi guys,

 

The axle holders shipped with some of the RedRoo chassis were not specifically marked 'front' or 'rear'. Some were only marked 9,2 or 9,5.

 

The simplist way to remember which goes where, is to remember the shortest goes in front and the tallest at the rear.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

 

Ps. I have now also added a note to this effect with the earlier post regarding the assembly of the RedRoo.


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi Kim,

 

As for other chassis options in this class (if you don't want to make your own or build one up from commercial chassis parts) is to use a chassis you already own. For example quite a few Plafit and Scholer chassis will fit - just check the body you want to use against it and make sure the chassis will extend long enough. These cars are long and the wheelbases are between 114mm and 125mm.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi all,

 

The other night Bruce arrived with a very quick Audi R18 and was keen to see how it performed. Little did we know at the time, but he had a new chassis under his LMP. Here are a few photo's of his new Do-Slot chassis:

 

IMGP3101.jpg

 

.....and seen from underneath....

 

IMGP3099.jpg

 

The total minimum weight was spot-on too..

 

IMGP3103.jpg

 

Making for a beautiful and very competitive car in this exciting class.

 

IMGP3097.jpg

 

Well done mate, can we expect to see it as the weapon of choice for the Eagles Team in May at the Qld State Endurance Championships?

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi all,

 

Yes, this is the same RedRoo V1.0 chassis that has just won the Qld OAPR LMP Endurance Championships for 2014. It also came second, was in third place with some modifications, in fourth spot and in fifth place (with some Johnson carbon bits).

 

But the competition is getting better and better. Just check out two new chassis options (in other threads here on Auslot) that have become serious contenders.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan.


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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I have decided I will scratchbuild my own chassis and use a plafit 1800 slpj as a mule for parts etc. A Have had a good read of the rules etc and love the concept of this very exciting class. Also found a small slot car centre in Albury called Revhead slot cars which will give me a testing base. They have two tracks which are basically elongated figure 8's which will give me some running time. Already have the brass sorted so just need to get the graph paper out and start drawing.

After a very long break the bug has its teeth firmly attached.

Edited by Old Quikslotter

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Guys,

 

Sebastian at Do-Slot has expanded his website greatly and now included a huge number of chassis alternatives for this class. Of course if you don't want to go overseas for your chassis, then you can talk to Garry Johnson or Paul Windelborn up here in QLD.

 

Not forgetting, the RedRoo V1.0 is still available too.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi Jan,

firstly, great class and great cars (construction) Would be nice to see some over here.

 

Were could I pick up a chassis and body kit from

Keen on Audi R10 or 18

 

Paul


Try Harder, if you dont fail your not trying hard enough

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Paul,

 

The quickest car so far has been the original Red Roo from Jan. The only modification it needs is to link the body mount plates to form a proper "H" plate. If you're looking at anything else try and go for something with fairly even weight distribution, perhaps biased slightly to the rear, and of course it must have the sprung motor box to be anywhere near competitive. Jan also has all the bodies.

 

The best thing about this class is that are so easy to drive. Anyone can drive them to about 95% of their capability. The last 5% is the hard part, requiring a deft hand and controller adjustment..


Cheers,

 

Garry J

 

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

 

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Hi Paul,

 

Yes they are great cars. As indicated throughout this thread, it is a completely open chassis class and therefor you may also make your own. However, if you prefer to buy one then it is best to PM/email any of the mentioned sources.

 

I will PM you with my options.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Has anyone tried using a brass chassis similar to what we raced in the 70's? They were good enough to handle Group 20 and open motors so a longcan shouldn't be a problem.

 

Cheers

 

Paul


May the downforce be with you.

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Paul,

 

The main difference is that the chassis of the '70's were soldered together and chassis for this class are the modern scale type which does not allow for soldering and must be bolted together with working spring suspension.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi guys,

 

A chassis that has impressed this year, is the JRS, designed and manufactured by Garry Johnson...

 

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh54/roestorf/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-04/20150426_112048_1.jpg

 

We first laid eyes on it at HSC in February, where Noel had one going very well under an Aston Martin body. Whist it got out done by Cam's RedRoo/GJ car, the potential was clear. To that end it has proved to be the bench mark during clubracing at Ecurie Elite.au since then.

 

This coming weekend a few of these JRS missiles will be amongst the cars on the grid at RedRacer for the Qld Endurance Championships during the OAPR LMP 1000 - no doubt with high expectations of unseating the longreigning RedRoo's.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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LMP racers.. I've got a bit of "Garry Johnson magic" for sale.. a limited edition (because he rarely make them :lol: ) carbon fibre upgrade for the

Red Roo chassis. Its brand new and surplus to requirements so I will sell for $80 including postage anywhere in Australia.

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There's a difference?.. have to ask Garry.. Only bought it a few weeks ago for the original Red Roo I bought from you.

Edited by axman

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Kim,

 

Yes there are a few differences - v2.0 has a H-plate and different body mounts. The spacing of some holes in the main plate is also different and therefor some pieces will not fit.

 

BTW, v2.0 and v3.0 use the same carbon pieces.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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