328 replies to this topic

[waytofast]

thanks for the tips.
will pass it on to our thursday night racers
cheers, steve

[Springbok Racer]

I have removed this post.

Edited by Springbok Racer, 26 May 2012 - 08:04 PM.

[Richo99]

Thanks Jan, will be of great help to new racers (and some of us old nuts....)

Pete

[Davnic74]

Thanks Jan, great tips and advice.
Looks like a BMW or Merc for me..
Maybe a Porsche too!!

[moneypit]

Nice review Jan. I have been thinking of getting one, and you have confirmed a few things for me. In fact the whole thread is very helpful. I do like the beemer, after reading this I recon that will be the one.

[Ratracer]

Thanks Jan and Shane I just pulled my Porsche apart and sanding the main plate the photos are great Shane and Jan.

Looks like the TBird needs to get a move on and start racing these as soon as possible! Shane is pushing to get these onto our Tuesday night race calendar for late next month which looks like it is a goer.

Edited by Ratracer, 24 March 2012 - 04:44 PM.

[Noel B]

Just to reiterate what Jan said about refraining from modifying any thing eg using the dremel on any part of the car.. The chassis will blue print fine. The bodies can be a little inconsistent mainly in the wheel arch area. I had to adjust my two white body Porsche kits that I raced over seas last year and still use now. When you get your chassis nice and square you may find that the wheels do not appear to be even with in the the wheel arches it could be front or rear. What we have had to do is place the body on a flat surface and put a couple of spacers under the front maybe about 5mm and carefully push down on the body whilst pouring some boiling water over the arches and bonnett .. The bodies have quite good integrity and you may need to do this a couple of times to get it right.. I have heard of others using steam but either way it's a little dangerous so be careful. My latest car is the BMW with factory painted body and it had the problem on the front with the rear being spot on.. Both of my Porsches had the problem at the rear and with this I left the body mounted on the chassis with wheels on, I had some high density foam rubber which in this case I placed behind the rear of the wheel on either side which in turn pushed the rear end of the body out and up and in the end after pouring the boiling water over it gave me the clearance I needed to not have the wheels fouling on the body. My Jag white kit needed no adjusting at all so there's the inconsistency.. I did adjust all kits with the glass and interiors out of the cars.

Noel B

[jazzbell]

I have to say i too have had know problems with the Bmw or Jag body in mounting after the chassis is all true.

Funny you brought this up Noel as i just spoke to Jan yesterday about mounting a Porsche body for someone else that was out of square and i too have had one bad Porsche body that i had problems with trying to mount with the wheel arches being out.

regards shane a

team thunderbird

[Noel B]

Shane I have to say that the porches were by far the worst ( White Kit ) I can't speak for the prepainted ones. When measuring a long the side of the body one of mine was 2 mm out from one side to the other. Also just check the BMW guide area as it does run very close to the back of the splitter so it may not be a wheel clearance issue but an issue with the guide binding up.. Well Shane after yours and Jan's excellent tutorials on the cars there wasn't much left to be said.

Noel B

[jazzbell]

Noel B, on 25 March 2012 - 09:19 AM, said:

Shane I have to say that the porches were by far the worst ( White Kit ) I can't speak for the prepainted ones.
Noel B

i'm talking prepainted body .

regards shane a

team thunderbird

[HoMErN13]

I've been reading this thread learning how to setup my scaleauto Porsche.

This is my first metal chassis car.

One question I have is what method and how do you guys go about sanding the chassis parts?

Edited by HoMErN13, 02 April 2012 - 03:19 PM.

[jazzbell]

HoMErN13, on 02 April 2012 - 03:18 PM, said:

One question I have is what method and how do you guys go about sanding the chassis parts?

My method for sanding parts is a flat machined steel plate. I know of others that use a nice thick plate of glass too.

regards shane a

team thunderbird

[Springbok Racer]

jazzbell, on 02 April 2012 - 03:54 PM, said:

HoMErN13, on 02 April 2012 - 03:18 PM, said:

One question I have is what method and how do you guys go about sanding the chassis parts?

My method for sanding parts is a flat machined steel plate. I know of others that use a nice thick plate of glass too.

regards shane a

team thunderbird

Agreed, any hard flat and straight tool will do the trick.

Cheers,

JanR

[SIGMA]

HELP PLEASE
I have just built up a 1700 SLPJ chassis and decided to fit a Scaleauto Porsche RSR body. I now find that the chassis wheelbase is approx 10mm too long. Can anyone advise as to how I can shorten the wheelbase please.

Any idea as to how it will race compared to the standard Scaleauto chassis?

Thanks

[Noel B]

Sigma your car should handle better as it will be 25-30 grams lighter and you will be able to run a 1 mm ground clearance .. It just may be a case of repositioning your front axle blocks on the T piece then readjusting the T piece for length.

Noel B

Edited by Noel B, 08 April 2012 - 07:25 AM.

[Springbok Racer]

SIGMA, on 08 April 2012 - 06:15 AM, said:

HELP PLEASE
I have just built up a 1700 SLPJ chassis and decided to fit a Scaleauto Porsche RSR body. I now find that the chassis wheelbase is approx 10mm too long. Can anyone advise as to how I can shorten the wheelbase please.

Any idea as to how it will race compared to the standard Scaleauto chassis?

Thanks

Of course Noel is right........but if anyone ever wanted to discuss the fitment of these beautiful Scale Auto bodies onto chassis other than Scale Auto, perhaps we should start another thread for 1/24th scale European GT 's. The European GT's is a class where we use the Scale Auto bodies, but then fit any commercially available model chassis to them, using a Fox motor and a total minimum weight of 160grams.

Cheers,

JanR

[SIGMA]

Thanks for your help, I can see now where I have to change the front axle block position, can´t see why I couldn´t spot it. Thanks for the help.
I will certainly be stripping down my 2 Porsches and my BMW and bluprinting the chassis. Interesting I see you are using a 25K NSR, we are using a 30K NSR motor, but a Proslot Puppy-dog in the Plafits. Don´t know what will change if I swap the motors over, but love the Scaleautos and we just have the pre-painted Merc SLS bodies available, and am very tempted.....

Cheers

Richard

[Springbok Racer]

Richard,

The Scale Auto class is using the NSR 25King motor as the motor of choice all over the world, we will also be using it and racing this class to world spec at the MCN down in Adelaide later this year. Refer to all the rules elsewhere on this forum for this class and event. There is also a link in the rules to the international site for racing this class at worlds level.

Cheers,

Jan

[cbracing]

Hey.
In 2012 we are running in time porsche carrera cup here in Sweden.
The cars that are approved are only scale auto gt3rsr and cars
and is out of the box. What is clear is custom paint jobs or original livery. The tires are hand out pro comp 3 from Scale Auto.
Here are some pictures of various GT3 that I have painted to
different drivers in Sweden.

Cheers
Christer

[jazzbell]

Beautiful bodies Christer,love them all.

regards shane a

team thunderbird