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Show Us Your Scaleauto 1/24

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The Viper will be a welcome addition. The bodies all seem to be pretty even with the way the rules are written so people perhaps just get a car and a livery they identify with which is how it should be. I am waiting on the SRT 91 car to be released and think the Viper will be there or thereabouts. Might get a Z4 at some stage for a short wheelbase car.


4x national champion 6x national runner up. I come second most often but my girlfriends happy.

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Trevor,

 

Yes the SRT 91 will be good, but I suspect that as per usual Scale Auto practice, it will be 6 months before we'll see it. In the mean time you may want one of these......

 

imagejpg1-2.jpg

 

...or one of these?

 

imagejpg1-3.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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I am prepared to wait Jan. You winning with a Porsche has proved that there isn't enough of a difference in the bodies to make a meaningful difference. I have a Jag but the first car i ever bought was a charger so chryslers will always be a bit of a soft spot. The z4 is nothing more than an option on a smaller twisty track. Probably do well at yours if set up well.

 

I am not much of an engineer but I am pretty pragmatic. If there is a benefit to be had I will take it. All things being considered the almost no rear overhang of the Audi coupled with its good wide stance and relatively low height and good axle to guide length means it is essentially probably the best lid but as it stands Scaleauto and more importantly our national rules has made this class outstandingly even which is what everyone always wanted. Just race the body you like and if you set it up well enough and you pull and release the trigger at the right times you will do ok.


4x national champion 6x national runner up. I come second most often but my girlfriends happy.

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........ as it stands Scaleauto and more importantly our national rules has made this class outstandingly even which is what everyone always wanted. Just race the body you like and if you set it up well enough and you pull and release the trigger at the right times you will do ok.

 

Amen!

 

 


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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I said to myself I wouldn't buy anymore SA cars, but as a Dodge fan the Viper is a must.


Hoo Roo

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Just bought my second Scaleauto on the weekend. :wub:

photo2_zpsff56f9b3.jpg

 

and this is how my first one is looking

photo3_zps00e21b6b.jpg

 

The chassis has a horrible twist in it, and Im stuffed to get it out until I can get myself a flat block to sand it flat on :unsure:

This is the body that's going onto it, as the original body has suffered a few to many hits :blink:

photo1_zps25e55a32.jpg

 

Justin

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Guys,

 

We had one of the new Vipers on the track at Ecurie Elite.au last Wednesday night. Really look mean....very flat and sqat on the track. Look forward to racing it once the lexan interior and window set had been fitted as it still had all the hard plastic bits on the car. Speaking of bits - lots of little bits, that the builder will have to install for a legal body in National racing.

 

Early iobservations are that the new R4 chassis now has a magnet box, which will have to be removed if raced under National Regulations, but the magnet hole in the chassis could probably get filled with some lead if that is what the builder requires. The same printed SC logo as on the 'bling' has been used and will have to be preserved with clear tape if the chassis is going to be entered in National racing. The body mounts of the Viper is rather big and heavy, but should not be a problem with the usual minimum weight of 55g. In fact it may even be an advantage, given that it is low down. As for adding extra body weight, the usual spot - the braces across the doors, between the posts - are still there, but are rather narrow. They now also have a screw to secure them to the body.

 

As soon as my lexan pieces arrive I will post my observations and parity test results here. Please do the same if you have one and you have started racing it.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Mate, no idea at all. Certainly hope it is soon so that we can get it sorted and tested to include in the National regulations.

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Quote from another thread, by Brett:

 

Just as a matter of interest, the winning car ( A Merc ) at the mobile raceways 3 hour enduro was box stock, except for wheels and tyres, no fancy bearings, gears or anything else, the chassis wasn't even sanded flat.

So you don't have to spend big dollars on top of the drive away price.

 

Buy one and enjoy it John!

 

End of quote.

 

This is correct, you don't have to spend anything except wheels and lexan bits to have a competitive car. Even the old chassis are still fine too. My Porsche is still running with the original chassis that I prepared for the 2010 Worlds homologation testing that Nick De Wachter, Mark Campbell and I had undertaken in 2009. as far as I know Tim Tyler's one car is also from that first Worlds and is still going strong.

 

Over the almost 5 years all I have had to do, was strip to clean and replace rear wheels and braids - that is what I call economical racing. Oh and I have changed motors, but mainly because of the handout's that I've had along the way......and bodies, because like all of us, I too like a new livery now and again.......my original Worlds Gulf livery body is now in the display case for memory sake.

 

There is also not just one body that works; all the major races have been won at least once by every one of the different bodies - which as Kim said elsewhere, shows that the parity between them are great. No doubt the new Viper will be no different.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

 

 


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Ian,

 

It pretty much depend on the track and the grip level. I have never raced a locked up car, but if you have a open and flowing track with high grip, then perhaps you can run it solid. There is not much you can do on these cars, but like all of these type of cars, the rule of thumb is;

 

- go stiffer to slide and looser when you need more grip.

- reduce the rear spur when you need grip and increase when you need slide.

- go positive rake for grip and negative to slide

- go longer on polar length for less slide and shorter for more

 

Beyond that make sure you start straight, flat and square on the complete car. Also remember less friction is more speed. Bearings have less drag than braids etc. etc. etc

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi Ian.. Noel, Shane and I have never locked up the "H" plate. But like the plastic racers I have played with tightening and loosening the screws that hold the body on. Had a Jag that rattled badly coming out of turns.. weirdly, found if the body screws on one side were tight and the other side loose the car smoothed out and went much better... Go figure. :blink:

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A bit of a newbie question, Im still learning my way around the scaleauto stuff.

 

When upgrading from the bushes to bearings, what do people suggest?

Id rather do it once and do it right.

 

Justin

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Err Justin.. you talking 1/24th? To the best of my knowledge all 1/24th Scaleauto's come with Ballraces all round as standard and not bushes (oilites). The clue is with most standard Ball races is to flush them really well with Shellite as they usually have some manufacturing residual in them that prevents them from spinning to their potential. Once you've go them spinning really well.. Dont oil them! Until they get to the stage where they dont spin well (or never spun well) its not worth changing them.

The next step up is the "gold" ballraces. They have a factory coating on them that seems to not require the same degree of flushing and maintenance.

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You got me thinking.... So I went back and looked..... definitely bushes.

 

It is one of the earlier chassis, that may make a difference.

 

photo_zps71ffedec.jpg

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You got me thinking.... So I went back and looked..... definitely bushes.

 

It is one of the earlier chassis, that may make a difference.

 

 

Mate, absolutely no idea where you found/bought that 1/24th scale Scale Auto chassis. I have been playing with these since their launch in 2009 and I have never heard or seen one with bushes.

 

Any way, to answer your question - as Kim indicated, just buy the best bearings you can afford. If they are steel, flush them good, if they are ceramics or golds, just run them until they don't spin any longer - then throw them away.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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