imugford Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Do you guys lock down the "h" plate to the chassis plate or let it rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springbok Racer Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Ian, It pretty much depend on the track and the grip level. I have never raced a locked up car, but if you have a open and flowing track with high grip, then perhaps you can run it solid. There is not much you can do on these cars, but like all of these type of cars, the rule of thumb is; - go stiffer to slide and looser when you need more grip. - reduce the rear spur when you need grip and increase when you need slide. - go positive rake for grip and negative to slide - go longer on polar length for less slide and shorter for more Beyond that make sure you start straight, flat and square on the complete car. Also remember less friction is more speed. Bearings have less drag than braids etc. etc. etc Cheers, Jan Quote 'The older I get the faster I was.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axman Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Hi Ian.. Noel, Shane and I have never locked up the "H" plate. But like the plastic racers I have played with tightening and loosening the screws that hold the body on. Had a Jag that rattled badly coming out of turns.. weirdly, found if the body screws on one side were tight and the other side loose the car smoothed out and went much better... Go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brk12345 Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Muggy, wack a set of MJKs on and bring it down to Neils, the Scaleautos are a hoot on the big track. BRK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imugford Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Brk: still got the original wheels, just need the time to get down there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoMErN13 Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 A bit of a newbie question, Im still learning my way around the scaleauto stuff. When upgrading from the bushes to bearings, what do people suggest? Id rather do it once and do it right. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axman Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Err Justin.. you talking 1/24th? To the best of my knowledge all 1/24th Scaleauto's come with Ballraces all round as standard and not bushes (oilites). The clue is with most standard Ball races is to flush them really well with Shellite as they usually have some manufacturing residual in them that prevents them from spinning to their potential. Once you've go them spinning really well.. Dont oil them! Until they get to the stage where they dont spin well (or never spun well) its not worth changing them. The next step up is the "gold" ballraces. They have a factory coating on them that seems to not require the same degree of flushing and maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoMErN13 Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 You got me thinking.... So I went back and looked..... definitely bushes. It is one of the earlier chassis, that may make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springbok Racer Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 You got me thinking.... So I went back and looked..... definitely bushes. It is one of the earlier chassis, that may make a difference. Mate, absolutely no idea where you found/bought that 1/24th scale Scale Auto chassis. I have been playing with these since their launch in 2009 and I have never heard or seen one with bushes. Any way, to answer your question - as Kim indicated, just buy the best bearings you can afford. If they are steel, flush them good, if they are ceramics or golds, just run them until they don't spin any longer - then throw them away. Cheers, Jan Quote 'The older I get the faster I was.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS55 Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 The first 1/24 Scaleauto car I bought had bushes. Mike Quote Regards Mike Team Funhouse Racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axman Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Wow... You sure the retailer did'nt fleece the ballraces and sell as a seperate item Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry J Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) From my experience with Scaleauto bearings you might be better off with the bushes Edited July 16, 2014 by Garry J Quote Cheers, Garry J Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS55 Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 From my experience with Scaleauto bearings you might be better off with the bushes Agreed. I smashed three in practice for the Hornsby enduro earlier this year. Mike Quote Regards Mike Team Funhouse Racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imugford Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camber Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) That looks sharp. Great job. - Cam Ps what clear did you use? Edited July 18, 2014 by Camber Quote Hoo Roo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kash15394 Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Hey Ian that is one good lookin' Viper. Well done Kev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springbok Racer Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) Hi guys, The good news is that the first pre-painted Viper body has been released (the GTS-R Official Team livery) - in both a RTR car SC-7057 and a painted RTR body SC-7057b. The lexan interior and window kit has also been released SC-7908 and so too the Viper metal body mounts SC- 8131. Please note, that the a new universal adjustable body mount has been release and that it will be evaluated and tested to see if it can be included into our National Regulations for this class. Watch this space for all the new Scale Auto GT developments. Cheers, Jan Edited July 22, 2014 by Springbok Racer Quote 'The older I get the faster I was.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springbok Racer Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) Hi guys, Busy working on one of the new Vipers and I must say the body is light..... ....this is including the body mounts (but not the two body-to-chassis plates, about 5 grams) and lexan interior/window set and roll cage.......only need some paint and glue to finish. I would venture a guess that it will get close to the required 55grams as per our national rules. And here is the completed body after painting and fully assembled, ready for racing. Obviously the paint and glue have added about 5 grams. It is my experience that the white bodies always weigh more after painting than the factory pre painted versions., even when only adding decals and just covering it all with a clear coat. If any of you are wondering what the lexan interior, window and roll cage on it's own weigh... ....so with some paint, it will be just over 4 grams. An interesting revelation has been the two front grills and two wings included in the white kit. The one grill is solid and you don't need the photo edged part behind it. The one wing is obviously aimed at the racer and you even get a set of rubber wing mounts to mount it with. I will post more photo's as I progress with this very nice project. Cheers, Jan Edited September 19, 2014 by Springbok Racer Quote 'The older I get the faster I was.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imugford Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 one thing with the viper the front area between the fog lights and the wheel opening is very weak, to took one hit to crack the body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imugford Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 cant wait to see your chassis setup jan, i havnt seen any other vipers on the net apart from mine and a black one in the states Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springbok Racer Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Can't wait to see your chassis setup Jan, Ian, Whilst I will try the new chassis, without the magnet box (as we will not be using it at national level) - I will probably use one of my older chassis, which have already been blue printed and setup. If you want to see any of them, you should be able to find some info amongst some of the previous posts in this thread. Cheers, Jan Quote 'The older I get the faster I was.' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jazzbell Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Mines ready to rock and roll. Hopefully my lexan interior shows up today. Regards Shane a Team nsr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willowone Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) Spotted this beauty the other day imugford , livery based on the Viper SRT Motorsports currently runs in the Tudor United Sportscar Championship . Edited September 17, 2014 by willowone Quote Browse through my albums:https://www.facebook...kevwilsondesign Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imugford Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 willowone: still like mine better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangermouse Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 If Scaleauto do that one Willow I will be buying it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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