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Show Us Your Scaleauto 1/24


Guest jazzbell

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Hi Guys

 

Another Scaleauto Audi that will be going to Sydney shortly. Don't know if we will run this one or another car that Sammi has prepared. I also have another body for this Audi that I may prefer to get dinged up.

 

IMG_0306_zpsec73925a.jpg

 

Cheers

Mike

 

That looks fantastic Mike, i cant wait to see all of these cars next weekend..

Edited by Davnic74

Regard's

David

 

Team Phoenix

 

4 x Australian National Champion.

 

Premier Raceway Build

Gallery Raceway Build.

Heany Park Raceway Build

 

 

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Hey,..is there supposed to be a 'Tow-Hook' at the Front of the Audi ???

 

The car seems to have a Small 'Slot' in what would be an appropriate spot in the front of the car just above the 'Splitter'.

 

I certainly Don't have anything like a 'Tow-Hook' in the Plastic parts or Photo-etched bits.

Only reason I ask, is there Does seem to be 'Tow-Hooks' fitted to some of the other cars I have seen in some of the pics 'posted' on this forum and the Real car Obviously Does have one.

 

Plus,..The other things I am wondering about are whether the Front Number Plate is 'Required' to be fitted to the Grille area of the car?

In the package Kim sent me, I appear to have 2 x Number Plates, 1 x large and 1 x Small,..Not sure Where the Smaller of the Two should actually be fitted,..If at All,..Plus,..it Seems like there are Two 'Wiper Arms', a larger one and a Smaller one,..IS this actually the case?, as from the photos of people's cars I have seen 'posted', only 1 x Wiper assembly appears to be fitted.

 

One other thing I am Now perhaps concerned about, is Engine Detail.

 

Whilst I Do understand that one can use the Lexan Interior, it is 'Sorely' lacking in Any Real Detail,..especially where the Engine Bay is concerned,..Is it OK to simply run the Car with the Lexan interior,.. 'As Is' ?, or should the 'Bit' that replicates the Plenum chambers etc, required to be fitted?

 

Cheers

Edited by stoo23
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Glad you're asking these questions Stoo.. I have no clue

 

As per 1.1.6.e. of the car regulations the wipers and engine details are not required when the lexan interior and window set is used. The only hard plastic part from the interior that must be refitted, is the roll cage.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Anyone ever had trouble putting a Steele pinion on the NSR Evo motor?

 

I stuffed a motor today and don't know why, I used a slot it press and bent the shaft and there's a lot of play now..

Regard's

David

 

Team Phoenix

 

4 x Australian National Champion.

 

Premier Raceway Build

Gallery Raceway Build.

Heany Park Raceway Build

 

 

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The simple fact that you can't actually Press against the 'Shaft' at the Commutator end is a good enough reason for myself to Not even Try and Press a Steel Pinion onto the Evo motor shaft.

 

As a reasonable amount of Force would be required, it means you are Pressing the Commutator and shaft up into the Endbell Bearing,...

 

Which might account for the Extra 'Free Play' you have mentioned,..you have either pressed the Commutator further onto the Shaft, or shifted/dislodged the endbell bearing.

 

I've opted for a Plafit pinion and spur gear combo.

 

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Here's my solution.

 

My home made pinion press with adapter for motors with enclosed endbell bearings.

 

PP-1.jpg

 

You can see from the mark in the centre of the adapter that it does push against the shaft and end float is not affected.

 

Assembled with the adapter.

 

PP-2.jpg

Cheers,

Garry J

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Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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For that adaptor to work, the motor shaft must be very close to the pressed metal end cap then?

 

It looks like you have you machined a centre spike to push the end cap onto the end of the shaft?

 

If it is not, end float will be affected.

 

Edit

Another thing to make it easier would be to put the pinion in the oven and the motor in the freezer before pressing them on.

Edited by Camber
  • Upvote 1

Hoo Roo

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Yes, I really don't see how that device is particularly different to either the AvantSlot unit I havre or the aforementioned Sot.it unit Gary.

 

You Still cannot prevent 'Pressure' from the Can/Pinion end pushing the shaft into the endbell/bearing end when Pressing the pinion on, as you are in effect Only supporting the metal 'shroud' or can, Not the Shaft directly

 

But hey guys,..Feel Free to 'Mess' with Your Evo motors that way,..Especially Your Race motors ,... lol

I'm Quite Happy with the Very Smooth and Silent Gear Mesh I have,.. :)

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The bottom of the adapter is flat.

 

The shaft pushes on the cap which pushes on the adapter.

 

I've put steel pinions on 2 motors with no increase in end float.

 

It works.

 

Nuff said.

 

If you don't want blunt replies then don't argue every damn point.

Cheers,

Garry J

Slotworx_Logo_Small.jpg

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

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Who's Arguing ???

 

Do what you like,..I don't care,...

 

I was initially just offering an Opinion regarding Why I have chosen Not to,..Even WITH a device Virtually Identical to yours,..as is the Slot.it device the original 'poster' used when it Did NOT Work.

 

 

 

 

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My lastest weapon (actually it's more like a BB gun)

To para phrase Crocodile Dundee, you could race with it...but it goes like s#%t.

- Cam

 

Cam,

 

That looks great mate - just a little intrigued........where's the South African connection?

 

Jan

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Here's my solution.

 

My home made pinion press with adapter for motors with enclosed endbell bearings.

 

PP-1.jpg

 

You can see from the mark in the centre of the adapter that it does push against the shaft and end float is not affected.

 

Assembled with the adapter.

 

PP-2.jpg

 

Garry,

 

Can I order one?

 

Jan

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Cam,

 

That looks great mate - just a little intrigued........where's the South African connection?

 

Jan

 

Thanks Jan,

 

No connection, just liked the livery. It was a challenge with the decals, the only paint on the car is white.

I need to try some of the tuning tips you posted.

 

Cheers,

 

- Cam

Hoo Roo

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Hi Guys

Let me first up say that I am not invovlved with any scale auto racing, but am interested in what's happening with the steel pinion fitment.

Obviously the pinion being used is an interference fit rather that a clearance fit so in otherwords the diameter of the hole in the pinion is slightly smaller that the diamenter of the arm shaft, thus using friction to hold the pinion on the shaft. Where as the clearance fit is the opposite allowing the pinion to slide on the shaft. My experience of steel pinions has been with a clearance fit, that requires the pinion to be fixed to the arm shaft with solder or loctite depending on the application.

From what I can understand of this it seems to me that the interference fit may be too tight and when fitted to the shaft the pinion is siezing on the shaft causing the damgae by extra force being applied to get it to fit. Could a clearence fit pinion be used instead?

 

Is the hole in the pinion counter sunk or is there a square edge that pushes against the shaft when being pressed into position ? The countersunk face would offer less resistance than the square edge,.the square edge acts a bit like a chisel against the shaft. also a drop of oil may help reduce friction when push the pinion onto the shaft but shouldn't cause slippage after because the excess would be squeezed out though the tight tolerences.

 

Cheers

Alan

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I had to "fill in" the comm end bearing adaptor recess in the Slotit Pinion Puller with a small bit of round brass, otherwise the shaft tries to puncture the motor bearing adaptor, i.e. the slotit recess is too deep for the height of the bearing surround.

 

I have always soldered steel pinions, but the 50 pitch steel ones from Grid1 are certainly a very hard press fit, I actually slightly enlarge the pinion hole so it was'nt quite as hard to press on.

 

IMO press on pinions are something from the dark ages, but you can get away with them because such low powered motors are being used.

Edited by Rhythm Willie
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Hey Dennis,..didn't know that the Slot.it Pinion press had Such a Deep recess in it, (as you described), which Would obviously be a problem.

 

The AvantSlot unit I have is Very similar to the device Gary J has made and is typically quite well made and has served me well over the years and whilst Not a 'Chepy', Isn't as expensive as the Slot.it unit.

 

I Am led to believe the 'Mesh' with the pinions from Gr1D IS Very good, but as you say,..with the relatively Low power motors used in the cars typical of this class, has Not proven to be a problem.

 

I have seen people Super Gluing the Plafit pinions on as well,..although one would doubt just How much glue would remain between the core of the pinion and the shaft.

 

Have not Yet experienced Any 'Spinning' pinions,..Yet,...lol, when using Brand New Plafit pinions.

 

Not sure about countersinking or flat edge Lenny,..someone else probably does.

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Hi Guys

 

Is the hole in the pinion counter sunk or is there a square edge that pushes against the shaft when being pressed into position ? The countersunk face would offer less resistance than the square edge,.the square edge acts a bit like a chisel against the shaft. also a drop of oil may help reduce friction when push the pinion onto the shaft but shouldn't cause slippage after because the excess would be squeezed out though the tight tolerences.

 

Cheers

Alan

 

Alan,

 

The steel pinions from Grid has a counter sunk end and a square end. Never had a problem with them. I use a standard Ninco press and simply slip a pices of brass sheet between the endbell cap and pin of the press - obviously using the countersunk end of the pinion. I have now done around 20 of these operations, all successful.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Hi guys,

 

Well Mike jumped the gun on me with his beautiful Kangaroo R8, so I had to do the next best Aussie livery, hope you like it................

 

IMGP3034.jpg

 

......and the end I hope to show to most of you .....LOL

 

IMGP3036.jpg

 

.......OK, OK here you go, have a look at the frontend.....but don't get stuck in my web.....

 

IMGP3035.jpg

 

Actually, rather pleased with the end result - car drives nice, it's light and easy to see.......now I only have to like it better than my Merc at HSC on the weekend.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Looks great Jan...

Hope it drives as well as it looks...

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