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Nz Proxy Series 2012 - Entries



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#61 slotmadmac

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 05:04 PM

View PostSlotsNZ, on 04 March 2012 - 12:57 PM, said:

Scrutineering notes
Slotmadmac Left front wheel just not touching tech block. Spur gear and one rear body screw both
JUST 1.00mm above ground.


My set up block must be twisted.:)

Mac
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#62 SlotsNZ

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 06:19 PM

Hi Chenglaw

z) none of the above. The chassis is fairly tight on the body, and the chassis is sitting sort of twisted. So the wheel on one side is well inside the arch, the wheel on the other side sticks out.

I calipered the body at 58."something" but I forget the exact number.

So the wheels outer width is less than the body width, but they not centred under the body as he chassis seems mis-aligned a little.
- You can get a reasonable idea of that from the middle shot - from underneath the car.

I can pysically push the wheels so they are under the body, but as soon as releaseed the spring back, because I am putting a little pressure on the body posts to do it.

I could loosen the body screws and see what happens.

Mac - dunno, what sort of tech block. The one I used was the Prof Motor Korian one, - I figured that would be the straightest - all my others are acrylic.

Everyone - I had considered whether to apply any penalties for cars not having 4 wheels on the deck, as the rules state "no tri-pods" but as no-one has intentionally build a "tri-pod" rather, has an issue with straightness, there is no advantage built into the car, rather - a small disadvantage. So I am not planning to apply any penalties to any of the cars with a front wheel not touching ground.
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#63 chenglaw

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 07:28 PM

Mark, thanks for the update. I can now understand the reason for the wheel protrusion. The chassis is of very flexible plastic material, hence the twisting which I think resulted from heat, the car having been in the box for some time. Under the circumstances, could you just release the body mounting screws, leave it for 2 or 3 hours and maybe the whole works will realign itself. If not, could I ask you to help re-drill a fresh hole (1.5mm) in one of the mounting blocks with the chassis properly aligned so that everything complies with the rules. If I need to take a penalty, so be it. Thanks.
Lim

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#64 SlotsNZ

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:36 PM

Hi Chenglaw,

will do. I'll report back tomorrow.
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#65 SlotsNZ

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:03 AM

Phil

your body is close to stiaight now, and I have stretach the uprights a little to get the rear wing to fit.
- I have been slightly butcher-ous [if that is word] , I used hot glue underneath it, as I couldn't imagine with the small surface area contact that a CYA, or even an epoxy would hold through the race. At least the hot glue sets soft-ish, and has some give but tenancity. Also, heating the body caused the hot glue holding the engine detail to let go, so I had to remove that dry and re-attach it. Butone stack snapped off - very thin resin base on the exhausts, to I basically used the hot glue from underneath that as well to relocate it while I was glueing the detail panel back in.

Chenglaw. I cleaned the track and gave each car a couple of laps for the first time, in case of problems.
Both your car and Phangs have running issues. Your rear wheels touch the back of the wheel arch and will destroy the tyres in no time, and it hops like a bunny as a result. I will try and warm your body to releive this as soon as I get time. If not this afternoon, then before the round on Thursday. It can't be driven till that is fixed.
Phang's car appears to have mismatched tyres. One feels almost like silicon, the other like a plasticcy compound that has gone hard with age. It also has something rubbing, haven't gone into it in detail.

It simply cannot run with the pair of tyres it has, I can barely drift it around corners.

Miveson. Your car is going, but I can see it fishtail as the front wheels try and halt progress under brakes, so I suggest you take another 5 point hit, and I'll fix that for you, or you'll lose a lot more each round -I think you already said "do it" anyway, but wanted to say it here.

Orakei-Racer. Box of cars has arrived, both all legal and okay.
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#66 Orakei Racer

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:56 AM

Hi Mark

Relieved the cars turned up today.

Both being legal is always a good start.

But looking at the upgraded horse power everyone has gone for, I might be a bit outgunned this year.

Regards
Orakei Racer

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#67 kalbfellp

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 01:59 PM

Mark thanks for all the effort. The intakes and rear wing are off my previous Lola 310. That was a Vac formed body fitted to an Inter 32 chassis that competed in the last World Proxy Race. The wing and trumpets survived 12 rounds of that event in 3 countries BUT could not survive our postal services! Just shows how gentle Slot Car racers are! :D

#68 chenglaw

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 02:07 PM

Mark, it looks like the heat has done more damage than I had envisaged. There was enough clearance between rear wheel and wheel arch when I track tested the car before packing it up and it was running pretty smoothly without issues. Maybe a case for removing the cars from their boxes as soon as they arrive in future?

I think Phang's Auto Coast tyres may have been a mistake made by me - I helped change the original MSC tyres to what I thought was a pair of NSR Supergrips prior to putting the car in the box and the car was not track tested after that. The tyres came from a plastic bag which had about 6 tyres and which was labelled "Supergrips". Could you replace the tyres with a pair of Ultragrips if available and I will arrange for you to be reimbursed with the cost.
Thanks,
Lim

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#69 Yuen Loong

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 10:50 AM

Hello forum members

Apologies for the delayed post, but here is a brief description of my entry for the NZ Proxy:

I have always liked the early period CanAm cars, and when Cheng Law informed me of this proxy series, I needed little persuasion to put in an entry.

My entry is a model of the 1970 Norris Industries Autocoast Ti22.

Posted Image

Charlie Fitzpatrick at Betta and Classic very kindly gave me permission to to use one of his 0.030" white plasticard vacuum formed Betta shell as a mould to cast a regid resin copy. I wanted to use petroleum jelly as a release agent, but do now know what to use to thin this down. In the end, I used soap, which seems to work out alright. In hindsight, I think I may have cast the shell a bit too thin - we'll see what damage/deformation may occur when the shell is put under racing conditions as the series unfold.

Paint is Halfords rattle-can acrylic. Cheng Law provided a driver which was painted with artist's acrylics.

Chassis and running gear is a bog standard MSC Monte Carlo Universal Chassis fitted with a MSC Thunder 2 motor and 10:30 gear ratio. Only the rear tyres were changed (or not?) to NSR Supergrips. Chassis to body mounting is by a pair of polycarbonate sheet outriggers fixed to a couple of wood blocks glued to the body shell.



Top view of chassis:
Posted Image


Bottom view of chassis:

Posted Image


I believe this is the first time a MSC chassis has been entered for these type of proxy racing. Lets see how it fares at the end of the series.


Yuen Loong

#70 SlotsNZ

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 11:47 AM

Yuen, a very big welcome aboard, and thanks to Chenglaw for introducing you to the proxy series and this forum.

Thanks for the write up on your car, and yes, you are right, I have not seen an MSC chassis used before.

We have a saying down here "you don't have to be mad to hang out here . . . . but it helps"

You're somewhere in Britain aren't you?
From what I can see - or not see - on the UK S.F.I. forum, there is not much proxy racing done in Europe.

We find it a very interesting aspect of the hobby, and great for interaction between entrants who are almost by definition, in locales far away from each other.

Oh, and if you are on SFI forum, it is okay on our forum to mention other forums.
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