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chenglaw

Nz Proxy Series 2012 - Entries

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My apologies Mark, missed the post on Friday and have been in Hamilton all this weekend.

 

The Alfa blew it's motor on Thurs night, had to search for another good motor and the Mclaren threw up some last minute challenges while I was trying to re-assemble it. Was tempted not to put it in but got there.

 

Both cars will be fast posted on Monday for delivery on Tuesday.

 

Sorry - Murphy's law.

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Glad to hear car passed the first hurdle ... Now on to the series ... Best of luck to everyone ..

 

Cheers Wazza - P.S Mark could you post the photo's i sent you of my entry .... many thanks .

Edited by nitro0440

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Sorry Mark. Just forgot to check. Same tyres as last year. Will just have to take penalty for first race and see how they wear by time cars get to Taranaki in April. If much wear then will have to replace and take further penalty.

 

No way to start proxy but I only have myself to blame.

 

Regards

 

Chas Le Breton

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Yes my car was all O/K when it left here,another Auspost hot box I presume. I am surprised that both mine and Stigs cars have wheels off the ground, I know Stigs car had had very little done to it from last year,he may have changer rear tyres and braid,so it must have been like it last year. My car is the Shadow rebodied, BUT it may be the warped body causing the chassis twist.

 

If it is too bad just send it back.

Edited by kalbfellp

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I'm quite surprised to learn that my Ford has the left rear wheel 1mm outside of the body. Prior to packing both the Ford and Auto Coast, I checked and re-checked to make sure that everything stayed within the bodyshell and that the max track measurement was within the limit. I can only surmise that as a result of being packed too long in the box, the heat could have caused the resin body to warp and deform slightly, resulting in the body leaning more to the right and exposing the left wheel. Mark, I think if you could just measure the amount of clearance the right wheel has, you just might find the offending missing 1mm of the left wheel. And if that proves to be the case, an easy remedy would be to put the bodyshell, still mounted on the chassis, under a hair dryer for about 10 - 15 seconds and at the same time pushing the bodyshell back over to the left to cover the wheel. Keep the pressure on the bodyshell and allow it to cool for about another 10 - 15 seconds. I think that should just about bring everything back into line. I'm not too worried about the front wheels rubbing against the bodyshell when lateral pressure is applied as this should not happen when the car is running (and I'm not expecting it to be marshalled too many times during a race! :D :D )

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"Lenny Broke Body sitting at odd angle, left front only about 0.8mm above track. 1mm feeler gauge under it lifts the left front wheel. At “rest” the right front wheel is about 0.2mm above track."

 

Hi Mark

Can't say why that is as the the car is last years. I haven't done anything to the front axle. I did replace the braids though so that may account for the front wheels clearing the deck, It wasn't apparent on my track or setup board. perhaps flattening the braid out abit will sort that out.

The body attitude I was aware of. Maybe one of the body posts has had a bit more shaveoff it when I reset the ride height for last years race. I don't think it affects performance greatly though.

 

Alan

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Hi Alan had another look at yours this morning.

 

The body screws have been closed over with blu-tak so I haven't had it apart, but it appears there is about 2 or 3 turns loose one side, about one turn the other side.

 

Pics for all. As clear as I can document them in haste.

charlesX.jpg

 

chenglaw1.jpg

 

chenglaw2.jpg

 

chenglaw3.jpg

 

lenny1.jpg

 

lenny2.jpg

 

miveson.jpg

 

miveson2.jpg

 

phil1.jpg

 

phil2.jpg

 

stig.jpg

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Howdy Mark

The wheel clearance wasn't apparent on my set up board. Mine has a braid recess in it so didn't show the difference on a visual inspection, might be time I shouted myself a new one I think.

Alan

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Thanks for the very clear photos, Mark. I am still at a loss to understand how the left wheel can protrude out beyond the bodyshell. I caliper measured the car's rear track at 57.10mm and the bodyshell width at 58.54mm and when I mounted the bodyshell I did check to see that it covered the whole chassis although clearance between body and rear wheels was tight. I had done a fair bit of work trying to bring the track width down to below the 57mm max Group B limit but since it wasn't possible without major surgery, I decided to enter it as a Group A car. So for the wheel to show 1mm outside the bodyshell which is 1.54mm wider, one of 4 things could have happened:

1) The bodyshell shrunk (not impossible with resins)

2) The set screw locking the wheel had somehow loosened during transit and the wheel moved on the axle (possible as I may not have tightened the screw enough)

3) The tyre expanded in width (could have done as I glued the tyres just prior to packing the car in the box.

4) The body moved on its mountings to the right on the chassis (possible as it was deliberately not screwed down tight)..

 

Could I trouble you to check which of the above is true and then try and apply a remedy if you have the time. One possible method is to file down the boss on both the wheel and gear hubs but that is a bit tedious and might take up too much of your time. Otherwise, just withdraw my entry and send the car back to me. Thanks.

Edited by chenglaw

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Scrutineering notes

Slotmadmac Left front wheel just not touching tech block. Spur gear and one rear body screw both

JUST 1.00mm above ground.

 

 

My set up block must be twisted.:)

 

Mac

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Hi Chenglaw

 

z) none of the above. The chassis is fairly tight on the body, and the chassis is sitting sort of twisted. So the wheel on one side is well inside the arch, the wheel on the other side sticks out.

 

I calipered the body at 58."something" but I forget the exact number.

 

So the wheels outer width is less than the body width, but they not centred under the body as he chassis seems mis-aligned a little.

- You can get a reasonable idea of that from the middle shot - from underneath the car.

 

I can pysically push the wheels so they are under the body, but as soon as releaseed the spring back, because I am putting a little pressure on the body posts to do it.

 

I could loosen the body screws and see what happens.

 

Mac - dunno, what sort of tech block. The one I used was the Prof Motor Korian one, - I figured that would be the straightest - all my others are acrylic.

 

Everyone - I had considered whether to apply any penalties for cars not having 4 wheels on the deck, as the rules state "no tri-pods" but as no-one has intentionally build a "tri-pod" rather, has an issue with straightness, there is no advantage built into the car, rather - a small disadvantage. So I am not planning to apply any penalties to any of the cars with a front wheel not touching ground.

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Mark, thanks for the update. I can now understand the reason for the wheel protrusion. The chassis is of very flexible plastic material, hence the twisting which I think resulted from heat, the car having been in the box for some time. Under the circumstances, could you just release the body mounting screws, leave it for 2 or 3 hours and maybe the whole works will realign itself. If not, could I ask you to help re-drill a fresh hole (1.5mm) in one of the mounting blocks with the chassis properly aligned so that everything complies with the rules. If I need to take a penalty, so be it. Thanks.

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Phil

 

your body is close to stiaight now, and I have stretach the uprights a little to get the rear wing to fit.

- I have been slightly butcher-ous [if that is word] , I used hot glue underneath it, as I couldn't imagine with the small surface area contact that a CYA, or even an epoxy would hold through the race. At least the hot glue sets soft-ish, and has some give but tenancity. Also, heating the body caused the hot glue holding the engine detail to let go, so I had to remove that dry and re-attach it. Butone stack snapped off - very thin resin base on the exhausts, to I basically used the hot glue from underneath that as well to relocate it while I was glueing the detail panel back in.

 

Chenglaw. I cleaned the track and gave each car a couple of laps for the first time, in case of problems.

Both your car and Phangs have running issues. Your rear wheels touch the back of the wheel arch and will destroy the tyres in no time, and it hops like a bunny as a result. I will try and warm your body to releive this as soon as I get time. If not this afternoon, then before the round on Thursday. It can't be driven till that is fixed.

Phang's car appears to have mismatched tyres. One feels almost like silicon, the other like a plasticcy compound that has gone hard with age. It also has something rubbing, haven't gone into it in detail.

 

It simply cannot run with the pair of tyres it has, I can barely drift it around corners.

 

Miveson. Your car is going, but I can see it fishtail as the front wheels try and halt progress under brakes, so I suggest you take another 5 point hit, and I'll fix that for you, or you'll lose a lot more each round -I think you already said "do it" anyway, but wanted to say it here.

 

Orakei-Racer. Box of cars has arrived, both all legal and okay.

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Hi Mark

 

Relieved the cars turned up today.

 

Both being legal is always a good start.

 

But looking at the upgraded horse power everyone has gone for, I might be a bit outgunned this year.

 

Regards

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Mark thanks for all the effort. The intakes and rear wing are off my previous Lola 310. That was a Vac formed body fitted to an Inter 32 chassis that competed in the last World Proxy Race. The wing and trumpets survived 12 rounds of that event in 3 countries BUT could not survive our postal services! Just shows how gentle Slot Car racers are! :D

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Mark, it looks like the heat has done more damage than I had envisaged. There was enough clearance between rear wheel and wheel arch when I track tested the car before packing it up and it was running pretty smoothly without issues. Maybe a case for removing the cars from their boxes as soon as they arrive in future?

 

I think Phang's Auto Coast tyres may have been a mistake made by me - I helped change the original MSC tyres to what I thought was a pair of NSR Supergrips prior to putting the car in the box and the car was not track tested after that. The tyres came from a plastic bag which had about 6 tyres and which was labelled "Supergrips". Could you replace the tyres with a pair of Ultragrips if available and I will arrange for you to be reimbursed with the cost.

Thanks,

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Hello forum members

 

Apologies for the delayed post, but here is a brief description of my entry for the NZ Proxy:

 

I have always liked the early period CanAm cars, and when Cheng Law informed me of this proxy series, I needed little persuasion to put in an entry.

 

My entry is a model of the 1970 Norris Industries Autocoast Ti22.

 

AutoCoastTi22013.jpg

 

Charlie Fitzpatrick at Betta and Classic very kindly gave me permission to to use one of his 0.030" white plasticard vacuum formed Betta shell as a mould to cast a regid resin copy. I wanted to use petroleum jelly as a release agent, but do now know what to use to thin this down. In the end, I used soap, which seems to work out alright. In hindsight, I think I may have cast the shell a bit too thin - we'll see what damage/deformation may occur when the shell is put under racing conditions as the series unfold.

 

Paint is Halfords rattle-can acrylic. Cheng Law provided a driver which was painted with artist's acrylics.

 

Chassis and running gear is a bog standard MSC Monte Carlo Universal Chassis fitted with a MSC Thunder 2 motor and 10:30 gear ratio. Only the rear tyres were changed (or not?) to NSR Supergrips. Chassis to body mounting is by a pair of polycarbonate sheet outriggers fixed to a couple of wood blocks glued to the body shell.

 

 

 

Top view of chassis:

AutoCoastTi22004.jpg

 

 

Bottom view of chassis:

 

AutoCoastTi22002.jpg

 

 

I believe this is the first time a MSC chassis has been entered for these type of proxy racing. Lets see how it fares at the end of the series.

 

 

Yuen Loong

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Yuen, a very big welcome aboard, and thanks to Chenglaw for introducing you to the proxy series and this forum.

 

Thanks for the write up on your car, and yes, you are right, I have not seen an MSC chassis used before.

 

We have a saying down here "you don't have to be mad to hang out here . . . . but it helps"

 

You're somewhere in Britain aren't you?

From what I can see - or not see - on the UK S.F.I. forum, there is not much proxy racing done in Europe.

 

We find it a very interesting aspect of the hobby, and great for interaction between entrants who are almost by definition, in locales far away from each other.

 

Oh, and if you are on SFI forum, it is okay on our forum to mention other forums.

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