Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Distoria

Power Issues

Recommended Posts

hey guys, have noticed the last couple of weeks after expanding the track a few times that towards the middle of the track there seems to be a bit of a dip in power, and also when there are more than 2 cars on the track at a time, is there any way to give this a boost? i use the 6 car power base with 2 standard scalextric power packs plugged in.

 

I have 2 additional digital standard power bases from track sets that i have bought, can i use them plugged in to boost the power?

 

sorry if this is a noob question, but the slowing down of the cars is getting to me

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What you're witnessing is a simple case of power drop due to resistance. It's always going to happen because no conductor is without resistance (unless you fancy making track rails from superconductors and running the lot at ridiculously low temperatures). See... I did pay attention is science classes occasionally. :)

 

You would be needing is some power taps. Extra power jumpers to introduce power to further areas of the circuit. Amount required depends on size of track. Proprietary ones are available from Scalex or you can make your own with some wire and some soldering skills.

 

Of course, there can be other reasons for power loss, like poor track connection, but this is a good place to start.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What ember is saying is that the small cross-sectional size of the conductive area of metal in the track means that resistance builds up as the track gets longer, and that also you may also be losing voltage due to the limitations of the design of scalelxtric track - the connections between sections are not fantastic.

BUT - I think you will also find it is due to the technical limitations of the Scaley Power bases.

 

There is a well know upgrade by an english guy which modifies the powerr bases to provide more stable voltage - but you will need a bigger, independent supply to make the most of it. It is called the "Simple-H upgrade or something similar.

There are versions for the old 4 car and old 6 oar power bases.

Another guy in Christchurch, New Zealand does the same or a similar modification.

 

Normally you send away your power base, they send it back modified . . . . unless things have changed.

 

Someone else can give you the names, I forget, as I am not involved with these units myself.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have the New Advance 6 car Powerbase it will either be poor connection between track pieces or need power taps if over 10m in length but if its the old 6 car powerbase with the blue screen then it might be the Powerbase but i would still check the track first.


Check out North Brisbane Slotcar Racing: http://northbrisslots.forumotion.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First up check the track connections and if needed re-tighten the lugs under the rails using one flathead screwdriver in the slot and one to re-crimp the tabs (this is done with the track piece upside down). If you have a non-permanent set-up and are always rearranging your track and pulling it apart and then setting it up again these tabs come loose and will need re-crimping from time to time, I recrimp the tabs on new track as well as they are never crimped tightly in the first place. If you have a permanent set-up make sure all the rails are crimped tightly in the first place and then relay your track to the layout you had, minimising pulling the track apart if you have too. Once you have made sure all the track pieces are crimped you are best to add powertaps (I have 2 powertaps over 22m of Digital track which are evenly spaced around the track). The best tip is once you have it all relaid, powertaps in place is to give the track a wipe down with a damp rag, clean the rails with WD40 and finally apply some inox to the rails with either your finger and a rag or by applying some to the braids of the cars and running a few laps. I find that the 6 car APB has plenty of power for what I need with the 2 standard psu's and have no problem running the 6 cars at once. If you think that you want more power RikoRocket has done a how-to on upgrading the APB using a variable supply unit. You are best not to add any other PB's into your circuit for more power as you will definately do some damage to your APB. If your powerbase isn't running the latest firmware available, RikoRocket also makes these cables which are also used for connecting your APB to a PC and using the SSDC software.

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks heaps for your replies guys, hoping to grab the power booster cables over the weekend, are they easy to fit? Can't seem to find any guides for scalextric, just other brands lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah pretty easy to fit, they connect to the lugs under the rails on the full straights. Its best to use the full straight closest to the powerbase and connect to all 4 rails here and four rails about halfway round your track if you are just using the one powertap. You just have to make sure that the same rail is connected with the same wire either side of the powertap, ie lane 1 will have a red/black wire and lane 2 will have a red and black wire, connect one at a time to the same rail. I took the straights out of my layout and joined them together, marked the direction of travel with a bit of tape with an arrow on it on both pieces and joined the wires to the corresponding rails by marking them 1-2-3-4 and then wired them red/black/red/black. Disconnect the 2 track pieces and put them back into your layout following the arrows for the direction. You have to wire them this way for analogue mode on the APB to work correctly. Remember the powertaps are another way of shortening the distance the power has to travel from A to B, so each rail is still wired as a single rail. This will probably confuse you more but I'm sure that the scaley powertaps that you can buy have a little diagram of how they are to be connected.

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...