Jump to content


Race Of Champions Track


75 replies to this topic

#21 Mobbzee

    VW Bug Man

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,865 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Laurieton NSW

Posted 26 December 2011 - 08:41 PM

thats really coming together nice Grant
looking good

#22 rsclio

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 366 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Melbourne

Posted 26 December 2011 - 09:11 PM

I like it
Progressing nicely
Cheers
Mike

Diamo Stages

#23 gazza

    2003 World hide and seek champion

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,254 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sitting in front of the computer, how else could i be typing this

Posted 27 December 2011 - 05:18 AM

Looks great Grant

For future reference for a good routing strip ..... http://www.auslot.co...__fromsearch__1

I wouldn't have worried about the track surface too much, any black paint would have done as long as it had a clear coat over it

After a couple of dozen laps the surface would have plenty of grip

Just us the img link (last one down the list) to post direct to photobucket

Posted Image
Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

Posted Image


http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

#24 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:44 PM

Thanks for the advice Gazza, I looked at your post and might try that routing option next time.
Got it up and running now used a 9v battery to test and just ran the cars direct till it drained it.
The bridge is running great, it looks like the problem (challenging) corners are the top left (as per plan) and the middle left and middle right. These are the kink bends and it throws the car a bit.
Click image for link (again thanks Gazza) of the first two car test run. Note these cars are not running independently just off the one battery but it gives an idea of what I expect in a race situation (Catch and Chase).

Posted Image

Also tried today with a 12v motorbike battery and a controller, all worked well. So now the basics are done its down to the hard work of detailing.
Will keep y'all posted as I go.

Edited by ZeGas, 28 December 2011 - 09:46 PM.

Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#25 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 20 January 2012 - 05:15 PM

Hope everyone had a good christmas and Happy NY to all as well.
Got a dilemma I am trying to think of a CHEAP and EASY way to create a concrete barrier with the attached profile.
I want to create it as either one continuous run that will flex around corners (tight) or as individual sections as in the real world.
Any ideas on methodology and materials would be greatly appreciated.
Posted Image
Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#26 Ember

    Possible diorama queen

  • Super Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,238 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Hamilton, Victoria

Posted 20 January 2012 - 05:29 PM

Someone does produce Jersey barriers, I just can't think who.

But, you could always shape them out of polystyrene, either the beaded variety or the pink/blue expanded insulation variety ([grumble] which I want but can't get in town [/grumble]) Form one that you're happy with and it can be used as a plug to make a mould and cast. Mould could be done in silicone (expensive) or plaster (cheap). Casts could also be achieved in a variety of products, even press-moulding air-dried modelling clay.
Computers. They'll never catch on.

Posted Image

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

#27 kalbfellp

    Formula 1 Driver

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,856 posts
  • Location:Hobart, Tasmania

Posted 20 January 2012 - 08:24 PM

You could just search out Jerseywall over on SCI and buy some!

#28 wizardgm

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 171 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide

Posted 23 January 2012 - 11:56 AM

I will make the assumption that those dimensions are going to be scaled down to 1/32 ! :rolleyes:

You could "Hot-wire" cut it from FOAM !!

#29 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 27 January 2012 - 04:24 PM

Thanks for the responses, I like the hot wire foam cut idea.
I think plaster would be to heavy.
Was tossing around the idea of expanding foam in a custom mold.
Pro's? Cons?
Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#30 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 15 February 2012 - 07:39 PM

I have been doing a bit of scenery lately but no photos to show for it yet.
Got a big? problem, please humour me in your responses as I am not electrically minded.
I know that copper oxidises and don't know if that is the main problem or not.
I have an electrical problem, the cars will not pick up and run.
I am running a 12v battery but my connection to the track is just a few small bolts with the cable connected to it. The copper tape lies over the top of the bolts.
The cars run fine (wheels turn round and light go) if I connect directly to battery but the connection to the track is poor.
If the cars get going they tend to run fine except in a couple of spots on the track which I think might just be poor taping spots.

Guess my questions are;
Is copper inherently bad and should I give up and use braid?
If so is there an easy way to install without have to rerout the track as I have barriers, tyre walls and ripple strips in place ? ie. can the braid sit on top or does it have to be recessed?
What is a better way of connecting power supply to track ?

I also see that armchairracer.com.au has Braid adhesive tape going cheap, when compared to the full braid any thoughts on that?
You can check it out at http://www.armchairr...ducts_id=246308

Any other tips would be great as well
Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#31 dangermouse

    Triple Crown Champion

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,934 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brisbane

Posted 15 February 2012 - 07:49 PM

Have you soldered the tape to the bolts? I routed a groove about the thickness of the wire and then drilled hole. Copper tape is pushed into the groove the wire comes up from underneath and sits in the groove. I solder the wire to the tape and the put a piece of tape over the top of that and solder both ends of that tape to the existing tape. Use a smooth flat object to push the solder flat right after you apply it.

I have had varying experiences with copper tape and conductivity - I have run on a track where there was a 1cm break and the track ran fine and I have had a hairline split and the lane was dead for 80% of the track. I solder any breaks now to maintain conductivity.

I don't think braid would work without a recess as it would be too thick and cars would either bump over it on corners and deslot or maybe even pull it up. Braid adhesive tape is to stick the braid to the recess instead of contact glue. Seems to be less of a hassle than glue.

Edited by dangermouse, 15 February 2012 - 08:26 PM.


#32 Mobbzee

    VW Bug Man

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,865 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Laurieton NSW

Posted 15 February 2012 - 07:52 PM

i dont use copper so i cant relly comment on its properties...
but as for the braid it has to be recessed...you wouldn't need to rerout as the recess bit you get has a pin that fits in the already routed groove

im not sure what you are asking about the adhesive tape....it is not a braid but a glue to go under braid to stick it down

#33 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 15 February 2012 - 09:22 PM

Thanks DM & Mobbzee will try soldering and see if that helps.
Didn't realise that the braid tape was just sticky stuff thanks for clearing that up.
Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#34 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 16 February 2012 - 04:48 PM

Ok debate time - Copper v Aluminium.

I know that Al has about 60% the conductivity than Cu
In theory that means you need 1 2/3 more surface area for same conductivity, right? or am I blowin' it.
So if I used 10mm wide Al rather than 6mm wide Cu should have same affect.
For tensile strength it is a bit less as well but if I used 35 micron rather than 30 micron for Cu that should be fine too.

The reason I'm putting this out there is that Cu oxidises Al doesn't. Thus should last longer.

What about electrical temperature between the car and track would that burn the Al at say 35 microns thick?

Can I put the voltage up to create the same conductivity?

Does 2*12v=24v (not that I will be doing this, just a theory example) or is it current that changes did electrical at tech/tafe many years ago but the only thing I can remember is that Kirchhoff was a c**t and V=IR?

How ductile is it, would I be able to mould around corners, I don't mind a few kinks but hardly want rumble strips?

Quite a lot to answer but just trying to think outside the square as the track is undercover but outdoors.

Edited by ZeGas, 16 February 2012 - 04:50 PM.

Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#35 kalbfellp

    Formula 1 Driver

  • Auslotters
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,856 posts
  • Location:Hobart, Tasmania

Posted 16 February 2012 - 10:45 PM

Copper is still the answer. How would you repair any breaks in the Al? and it will break often with expansion and contraction,it will oxidize,and you will not get 10mm wide to go around the corners.
I have raced on tracks with many different conductors,lead,Al,steel,copper tape and Braid. The Copper braid is the best followed my copper tape.

#36 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:40 PM

Big Thanks to Dangermouse, I sort of followed your instructions and circuit is good.

The contractors came in today to help with the track construction took a video of them hard at work.

Posted Image

Also some photos of work to date, its a bit of a slow process.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by ZeGas, 18 February 2012 - 09:42 PM.

Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#37 Mobbzee

    VW Bug Man

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,865 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Laurieton NSW

Posted 19 February 2012 - 06:44 AM

looking better everytime i look Grant
nice work

#38 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:33 PM

I have been working on the turn one corner and put up a bit of security fencing.
Looking to extend the gravel out closer to the tyres, the glue overran a bit and now looks like it's been raining so this should tidy it up a bit.
Also going to put a bit of sand down the track side (left hand side of the photos) to line up with the barrier and extend to the rumble strip and extend the tyres around there.

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

The toads are loving the security fence. Think they think it's a bloody high jump or something, hit one with a car this evening.
The kids have there own cars and the other day my two year old boy decided it needed to go rallying in his sand pit followed a wash in the pool.
I was flabbergasted that after drying out and getting the air hose onto it it ran better than before. Might try that with my cars....NOT !!

Edited by ZeGas, 14 March 2012 - 09:37 PM.

Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#39 ZeGas

    ZeGas

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,155 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mundoolun, QLD

Posted 15 March 2012 - 08:35 PM

A few more of the near complete corner, one down four to go

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Cheers Grant
Posted Image.......................................................Posted Image
Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool.


#40 digby

    Kart Driver

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 254 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:north s.a

Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:39 PM

Ze spy vs spy Looking good . As hard as it may be Never argue with a two year old.good luck





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users