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ZeGas

Race Of Champions Track

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I have started a routed track based on the ROC Dusselldorf track 2011 & 2012.

The track itself is scaled to exactly 1:32 of original and will be one lane digital chase and catch type system.

The slot is following the racing line as best as possible.

I will be using the Scorpius Wireless System.

The track will be battery powered with a solar recharge and will be storable with it being in three sections.

 

Don't know how to add an image from my hard drive as soon as I find that out I will post up the proposal.

 

Can someone please tell me how to add an image I have read the help and clicked on the image button but it only gives an option to upload from a url. No search hard drive option.

Edited by ZeGas

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Thanks Paul.

 

This is the proposal.

_1.jpg?t=1324273996

 

This is the plan

SlotCarTrack-Dusselldorf-Model.jpg

The total size is 3m x 2m.

I have made a start by building the bridge. used 4 layers of 3mm MDF to build up 12mm for the vertical curves, screwed and PVA'ed together. The sides are 16mm MDF, the underneath of the tunnel is cardboard.

The track is coated with 80 grit sandpaper and spay painted flat black.

P1060315.jpgP1060321.jpg

P1060322.jpg

P1060318.jpg

P1060334.jpg

P1060332.jpg

Edited by ZeGas

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Would anyone know the best thing to use as a guide to router around curves.

I am trying flat 3 wire electricity cable but need to hold it down too regularly.

Also looked at thick walled hose but not very accurate as it is round.

What I am looking for is something that is preferably square, will not flex when a router is against it and will hold a nice curve.

Any ideas and where I can get something would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance

Grant

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last time i tried i used stips of 3mm mdf with bocks evey 100mm, next time round I'll be using elcheapo garden hose from ".....ing's". with a nail every 100mm, I'm sure not much pressure is needed to keep against hose if you take little cuts ,2mm deep,, less chance of burning the cuter/tool & you can move at a great pace. Though I see/think you did your first cut by freehand, I guess you only get 1 chance that way??

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On the bridge I had to do it freehand cause the bridge wasn't wide enough to set an offset and as it was a laminate of 3mm mdf I couldn't do it flat either.

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Ouch don't want a roll on that surface!

You could try a length of angle alluminium in 1.5mm then cut the "flat " evey 10mm ish so it will flex

Then every 50mm put a hole through to nail or screw to your surface

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i went to the local perspex factory and got them to cut me a 1.5 metre strip of (i think it was 8mm thick and 10mm wide) lexan

drilled little holes 100mm and it bend beautiful

think it cost me about $10

edit....thinking it may have been more like $16

Edited by Mobbzee

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I did see the stuff you used in a photo you posted and wondered what it was, Thanks for letting me know Mobbzee.

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Ouch don't want a roll on that surface!

You could try a length of angle alluminium in 1.5mm then cut the "flat " evey 10mm ish so it will flex

Then every 50mm put a hole through to nail or screw to your surface

 

If you're referring to the sandpaper rsclio I thought that too but once it is painted it does soften the ride quite considerable. I will let everyone know how bad it is on the tyres when I get it up and running. It does look pretty realistic though.

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Ouch don't want a roll on that surface!

You could try a length of angle alluminium in 1.5mm then cut the "flat " evey 10mm ish so it will flex

Then every 50mm put a hole through to nail or screw to your surface

 

If you're referring to the sandpaper rsclio I thought that too but once it is painted it does soften the ride quite considerable. I will let everyone know how bad it is on the tyres when I get it up and running. It does look pretty realistic though.

 

i'd say rsclio was referring more to scratched up paintwork on cars....could be wrong though

 

paul

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Ouch don't want a roll on that surface!

You could try a length of angle alluminium in 1.5mm then cut the "flat " evey 10mm ish so it will flex

Then every 50mm put a hole through to nail or screw to your surface

 

 

 

Ah well, welcome to the real world then.

Hard mans circuit, if you need to ask how much then you can't afford to race it. haha.

Guess the answer is don't roll, drive within the speed limit and be courteous to other drivers.

YEAH RIGHT.

Still I like the fact that your car might not stay pristine.

Edited by ZeGas

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Great Idea

I was thinking of the exact same thing but with the Langley Park super special from Rally Aus when in Perth a few years back

 

I guess Michelle Mouton knows about pristine cars and race of champions

Edited by rsclio

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I remember that crash and schumi pissing himself laughing. Wasn't it on the entry to the ramp that she topsy turvied?

I chucked a 9v battery on the ramp to see if the cars could clear it and it is the exit side of the ramp that causes the most problems, with the racing line I have chosen.

The car wants to exit the slot just over the crest.

That will be the test for most people I think, but the slot actually comes back in line at the bottom of the ramp so a car may re-slot itself.

I have seen the cars get airborne in ROC over the bridge and they do in my scaled down version too.

Cool cause I tried to replicate the bridge to exactly 1:32 including VC transitions, all scaled from photos mind you.

The only change is that I didn't like the square entry to the tunnel so I made an elliptical one.

It will be interesting to see what happens when the whole track is complete.

Should happen over Christmas although it will only be for one car at the moment till the Chinese go back to work after their New Year and I can get the Scorpius system up and running.

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This is what I was trying to explain about the Aluminium router guide008.jpg

Was thinking about you're bridge and I think you will deslot pretty much every time you get some air.

You may have to compromise you're line to allow air - straight in - straight out

You probably don't want to hear this as I can see you've already done a lot of good work

The other thing is I think you could have made the bridge simpler - My trak is 9mm MDF with a 7mm deep slot and you saw the elevation changes I got from that.

If you were to route your slot 1st using a guide then cut the bridge out afterwards then on the bottom side at the bit where you want the most bending route 4 mm deep slots at 90degrees to the guide slot every 10-15mm this thins it out to 5mm in these areas and alows it to bend

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OK I have listened to reason well rsclio and decided for a couple of reasons not to use sandpaper to replicate a sealed track. Mainly it was because I couldn't be bothered to glue it all down and trim to suit the shape of the track.

Instead I am just going to use paint like everyone else. Did the routing today and used the electrical cable as a guide. It worked very well I thought and would probably use the same again. Will post pics soon.

 

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT.

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Some photos from boxing day, Note no work done on Christmas day. I was told that I love my family more.

P1060657.jpg

 

And just like the bad ol' days, Britain V Germany

 

P1060664.jpg

 

P1060671.jpg

 

And hey surprise surprise the bridge looks like it is going to work despite the change of direction just over the crest.

 

http://s1214.photobu...nt=P1060663.mp4

 

Don't know how to embed video yet so follow this link it is about a 2 sec video.

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Looks great Grant

 

For future reference for a good routing strip ..... http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6745-boslots-routing-strip/page__hl__%2Brouting+%2Bstrip__fromsearch__1

 

I wouldn't have worried about the track surface too much, any black paint would have done as long as it had a clear coat over it

 

After a couple of dozen laps the surface would have plenty of grip

 

Just us the img link (last one down the list) to post direct to photobucket

 

th_P1060663.jpg

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Thanks for the advice Gazza, I looked at your post and might try that routing option next time.

Got it up and running now used a 9v battery to test and just ran the cars direct till it drained it.

The bridge is running great, it looks like the problem (challenging) corners are the top left (as per plan) and the middle left and middle right. These are the kink bends and it throws the car a bit.

Click image for link (again thanks Gazza) of the first two car test run. Note these cars are not running independently just off the one battery but it gives an idea of what I expect in a race situation (Catch and Chase).

 

th_9vtest04twocar.jpg

 

Also tried today with a 12v motorbike battery and a controller, all worked well. So now the basics are done its down to the hard work of detailing.

Will keep y'all posted as I go.

Edited by ZeGas

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Hope everyone had a good christmas and Happy NY to all as well.

Got a dilemma I am trying to think of a CHEAP and EASY way to create a concrete barrier with the attached profile.

I want to create it as either one continuous run that will flex around corners (tight) or as individual sections as in the real world.

Any ideas on methodology and materials would be greatly appreciated.

Crash-barrier-00.jpg

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