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4 Car Power Base, Green Light Gone Out & Stopped Working!

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

Edited by mark iliff

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

 

Short Answer:

The internal fuse has blown.

 

Long Answer:

The Green light is driven by the CPU. If the CPU doesn't start up, then the green light doesn't come on. There is a reset circuit within the PB which will force the CPU to stay in reset when the 12v line after that fuse is dead.

 

Fix:

You need to ascertain the cause - your initial diagnosis is likely to be correct - a long short circuit. But I seldom see the PB fuse blowing as the CPU already monitors and shuts down the system before this occurs. Also standard PSUs for this powerbase cannot really supply enough current for the fuse to blow - its possible, but not likely.

 

You will need to bypass the circuit board mounted fuse with another 5A fuse. If it blows again, then you have another fault, usually caused by output driver failure, which does occur. This is a more complicated fix, and involves replacing the drive MOSFETs.

 

In short (excuse the pun) you likely have a pretty major failure - its repairable, but questionable as to value. You may want to consider an upgrade to the new APB6 as repair could be half of the price of that PB.

 

Ian


Linux: A '90s reincarnation of a '80s Operating System based on a '70s design philosophy

Website: www.electricimages.co.nz

InCar-PRO: Chip Main Page

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

 

Short Answer:

The internal fuse has blown.

 

Long Answer:

The Green light is driven by the CPU. If the CPU doesn't start up, then the green light doesn't come on. There is a reset circuit within the PB which will force the CPU to stay in reset when the 12v line after that fuse is dead.

 

Fix:

You need to ascertain the cause - your initial diagnosis is likely to be correct - a long short circuit. But I seldom see the PB fuse blowing as the CPU already monitors and shuts down the system before this occurs. Also standard PSUs for this powerbase cannot really supply enough current for the fuse to blow - its possible, but not likely.

 

You will need to bypass the circuit board mounted fuse with another 5A fuse. If it blows again, then you have another fault, usually caused by output driver failure, which does occur. This is a more complicated fix, and involves replacing the drive MOSFETs.

 

In short (excuse the pun) you likely have a pretty major failure - its repairable, but questionable as to value. You may want to consider an upgrade to the new APB6 as repair could be half of the price of that PB.

 

Ian

hello, thanks so much for your really informative reply. I forgot mention after I tried using the power base again it got really warm/hot to touch quickly, no way this was not meant to happen. But still no green light, so power was getting to the base unit, but no green light and it was feeling like it was overheating too. I have taken the power base to pieces a few times and I can't see anything that looks wrong, but most likely wouldn't anyway, I don't have clue where the fuse is that you mention, I guess it is not anything like a normal type plug fuse at all! Not to worry, I didn't realise that I can buy a new one on eBay for £12.00(just power base, not PSU), inc P+P which is not too bad really, just means waiting until next weekend now, before we can race again. I do want to buy the 6 Car PB but just can't afford it at the moment. Thanks for all your help. :huh:

Edited by mark iliff

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

 

Short Answer:

The internal fuse has blown.

 

Long Answer:

The Green light is driven by the CPU. If the CPU doesn't start up, then the green light doesn't come on. There is a reset circuit within the PB which will force the CPU to stay in reset when the 12v line after that fuse is dead.

 

Fix:

You need to ascertain the cause - your initial diagnosis is likely to be correct - a long short circuit. But I seldom see the PB fuse blowing as the CPU already monitors and shuts down the system before this occurs. Also standard PSUs for this powerbase cannot really supply enough current for the fuse to blow - its possible, but not likely.

 

You will need to bypass the circuit board mounted fuse with another 5A fuse. If it blows again, then you have another fault, usually caused by output driver failure, which does occur. This is a more complicated fix, and involves replacing the drive MOSFETs.

 

In short (excuse the pun) you likely have a pretty major failure - its repairable, but questionable as to value. You may want to consider an upgrade to the new APB6 as repair could be half of the price of that PB.

 

Ian

hello, thanks so much for your really informative reply. I forgot mention after I tried using the power base again it got really warm/hot to touch quickly, no way this was not meant to happen. But still no green light, so power was getting to the base unit, but no green light and it was feeling like it was overheating too. I have taken the power base to pieces a few times and I can't see anything that looks wrong, but most likely wouldn't anyway, I don't have clue where the fuse is that you mention, I guess it is not anything like a normal type plug fuse at all! Not to worry, I didn't realise that I can buy a new one on eBay for £12.00(just power base, not PSU), inc P+P which is not too bad really, just means waiting until next weekend now, before we can race again. I do want to buy the 6 Car PB but just can't afford it at the moment. Thanks for all your help. :huh:

 

The fuse is a small white surface mount device with just 5 written on it. Be aware there's 2 of them, and the other is marked .5 (this one runs the CPU and is unlikely to blow) They are marked F1 and F2 respectively. If you have a meter, F1 is likely open circuit.

 

If you wanna check the heat source, power the thing up with the lid off. With the fuse working, touch each of the 4 square black MOSFETs, they should not be warm (nor hot) if there is nothing on the track. If they are, the MOSFETs need replacing.

 

Ian


Linux: A '90s reincarnation of a '80s Operating System based on a '70s design philosophy

Website: www.electricimages.co.nz

InCar-PRO: Chip Main Page

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

 

Short Answer:

The internal fuse has blown.

 

Long Answer:

The Green light is driven by the CPU. If the CPU doesn't start up, then the green light doesn't come on. There is a reset circuit within the PB which will force the CPU to stay in reset when the 12v line after that fuse is dead.

 

Fix:

You need to ascertain the cause - your initial diagnosis is likely to be correct - a long short circuit. But I seldom see the PB fuse blowing as the CPU already monitors and shuts down the system before this occurs. Also standard PSUs for this powerbase cannot really supply enough current for the fuse to blow - its possible, but not likely.

 

You will need to bypass the circuit board mounted fuse with another 5A fuse. If it blows again, then you have another fault, usually caused by output driver failure, which does occur. This is a more complicated fix, and involves replacing the drive MOSFETs.

 

In short (excuse the pun) you likely have a pretty major failure - its repairable, but questionable as to value. You may want to consider an upgrade to the new APB6 as repair could be half of the price of that PB.

 

Ian

hello, thanks so much for your really informative reply. I forgot mention after I tried using the power base again it got really warm/hot to touch quickly, no way this was not meant to happen. But still no green light, so power was getting to the base unit, but no green light and it was feeling like it was overheating too. I have taken the power base to pieces a few times and I can't see anything that looks wrong, but most likely wouldn't anyway, I don't have clue where the fuse is that you mention, I guess it is not anything like a normal type plug fuse at all! Not to worry, I didn't realise that I can buy a new one on eBay for £12.00(just power base, not PSU), inc P+P which is not too bad really, just means waiting until next weekend now, before we can race again. I do want to buy the 6 Car PB but just can't afford it at the moment. Thanks for all your help. :huh:

 

The fuse is a small white surface mount device with just 5 written on it. Be aware there's 2 of them, and the other is marked .5 (this one runs the CPU and is unlikely to blow) They are marked F1 and F2 respectively. If you have a meter, F1 is likely open circuit.

 

If you wanna check the heat source, power the thing up with the lid off. With the fuse working, touch each of the 4 square black MOSFETs, they should not be warm (nor hot) if there is nothing on the track. If they are, the MOSFETs need replacing.

 

Ian

hi, yes I opened the power base up and plugged it in and the 4 square MOSFETS are what are getting hot, I unplugged the power base and touched the MOSFETS they were all feeling warm/hot, also that part of the surface of the green circuit board around the MOSFETS looks kind of messy, a clear brown liquid stuff looks as if it has melted a bit directly around the 4 MOSFETS, this is the only part of the circuit board in the power base that looks like this, so this is most likely due to the over heating as it was feeling fairly hot. I can see the 2 white fuses exactly as you describe and they look to be fine, but I'm not sure if they would look different if they had blown, also I wouldn't know how to replace them or bypass them. So yes it is definitely had it as far as I'm concerned and most likely not worth repairing at all, considering the price I can buy another one for. I would love to know why it happened though, I didn't even have a spare sport power base, as we could have used that until I get a replacement, I think in future I'll keep a spare power base for back up. ;)

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

 

Short Answer:

The internal fuse has blown.

 

Long Answer:

The Green light is driven by the CPU. If the CPU doesn't start up, then the green light doesn't come on. There is a reset circuit within the PB which will force the CPU to stay in reset when the 12v line after that fuse is dead.

 

Fix:

You need to ascertain the cause - your initial diagnosis is likely to be correct - a long short circuit. But I seldom see the PB fuse blowing as the CPU already monitors and shuts down the system before this occurs. Also standard PSUs for this powerbase cannot really supply enough current for the fuse to blow - its possible, but not likely.

 

You will need to bypass the circuit board mounted fuse with another 5A fuse. If it blows again, then you have another fault, usually caused by output driver failure, which does occur. This is a more complicated fix, and involves replacing the drive MOSFETs.

 

In short (excuse the pun) you likely have a pretty major failure - its repairable, but questionable as to value. You may want to consider an upgrade to the new APB6 as repair could be half of the price of that PB.

 

Ian

hello, thanks so much for your really informative reply. I forgot mention after I tried using the power base again it got really warm/hot to touch quickly, no way this was not meant to happen. But still no green light, so power was getting to the base unit, but no green light and it was feeling like it was overheating too. I have taken the power base to pieces a few times and I can't see anything that looks wrong, but most likely wouldn't anyway, I don't have clue where the fuse is that you mention, I guess it is not anything like a normal type plug fuse at all! Not to worry, I didn't realise that I can buy a new one on eBay for £12.00(just power base, not PSU), inc P+P which is not too bad really, just means waiting until next weekend now, before we can race again. I do want to buy the 6 Car PB but just can't afford it at the moment. Thanks for all your help. :huh:

 

The fuse is a small white surface mount device with just 5 written on it. Be aware there's 2 of them, and the other is marked .5 (this one runs the CPU and is unlikely to blow) They are marked F1 and F2 respectively. If you have a meter, F1 is likely open circuit.

 

If you wanna check the heat source, power the thing up with the lid off. With the fuse working, touch each of the 4 square black MOSFETs, they should not be warm (nor hot) if there is nothing on the track. If they are, the MOSFETs need replacing.

 

Ian

hi, yes I opened the power base up and plugged it in and the 4 square MOSFETS are what are getting hot, I unplugged the power base and touched the MOSFETS they were all feeling warm/hot, also that part of the surface of the green circuit board around the MOSFETS looks kind of messy, a clear brown liquid stuff looks as if it has melted a bit directly around the 4 MOSFETS, this is the only part of the circuit board in the power base that looks like this, so this is most likely due to the over heating as it was feeling fairly hot. I can see the 2 white fuses exactly as you describe and they look to be fine, but I'm not sure if they would look different if they had blown, also I wouldn't know how to replace them or bypass them. So yes it is definitely had it as far as I'm concerned and most likely not worth repairing at all, considering the price I can buy another one for. I would love to know why it happened though, I didn't even have a spare sport power base, as we could have used that until I get a replacement, I think in future I'll keep a spare power base for back up. ;)

 

As its getting warm the fuses are not blown. You couldn't tell by looking anyway. The repair to relace the 4 MOSFETs is difficult if not impossible due to the size of plane they are soldered to. I've scrapped more than I've managed to repair. Remove and save the half straight track. Save all the screws (might be useful one day). Bin the rest. 4 car power bases are cheaper than the cost of the parts so just search and get one off ebay, or do as MIH suggests and trade up to a C7042 - your PSU will work with that so its quite a clever move.


gallery_4291_493_4007.jpg

.............................PM me for C7042 Aux to PC cables............or Pit-Pro...

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

 

Short Answer:

The internal fuse has blown.

 

Long Answer:

The Green light is driven by the CPU. If the CPU doesn't start up, then the green light doesn't come on. There is a reset circuit within the PB which will force the CPU to stay in reset when the 12v line after that fuse is dead.

 

Fix:

You need to ascertain the cause - your initial diagnosis is likely to be correct - a long short circuit. But I seldom see the PB fuse blowing as the CPU already monitors and shuts down the system before this occurs. Also standard PSUs for this powerbase cannot really supply enough current for the fuse to blow - its possible, but not likely.

 

You will need to bypass the circuit board mounted fuse with another 5A fuse. If it blows again, then you have another fault, usually caused by output driver failure, which does occur. This is a more complicated fix, and involves replacing the drive MOSFETs.

 

In short (excuse the pun) you likely have a pretty major failure - its repairable, but questionable as to value. You may want to consider an upgrade to the new APB6 as repair could be half of the price of that PB.

 

Ian

hello, thanks so much for your really informative reply. I forgot mention after I tried using the power base again it got really warm/hot to touch quickly, no way this was not meant to happen. But still no green light, so power was getting to the base unit, but no green light and it was feeling like it was overheating too. I have taken the power base to pieces a few times and I can't see anything that looks wrong, but most likely wouldn't anyway, I don't have clue where the fuse is that you mention, I guess it is not anything like a normal type plug fuse at all! Not to worry, I didn't realise that I can buy a new one on eBay for £12.00(just power base, not PSU), inc P+P which is not too bad really, just means waiting until next weekend now, before we can race again. I do want to buy the 6 Car PB but just can't afford it at the moment. Thanks for all your help. :huh:

 

The fuse is a small white surface mount device with just 5 written on it. Be aware there's 2 of them, and the other is marked .5 (this one runs the CPU and is unlikely to blow) They are marked F1 and F2 respectively. If you have a meter, F1 is likely open circuit.

 

If you wanna check the heat source, power the thing up with the lid off. With the fuse working, touch each of the 4 square black MOSFETs, they should not be warm (nor hot) if there is nothing on the track. If they are, the MOSFETs need replacing.

 

Ian

hi, yes I opened the power base up and plugged it in and the 4 square MOSFETS are what are getting hot, I unplugged the power base and touched the MOSFETS they were all feeling warm/hot, also that part of the surface of the green circuit board around the MOSFETS looks kind of messy, a clear brown liquid stuff looks as if it has melted a bit directly around the 4 MOSFETS, this is the only part of the circuit board in the power base that looks like this, so this is most likely due to the over heating as it was feeling fairly hot. I can see the 2 white fuses exactly as you describe and they look to be fine, but I'm not sure if they would look different if they had blown, also I wouldn't know how to replace them or bypass them. So yes it is definitely had it as far as I'm concerned and most likely not worth repairing at all, considering the price I can buy another one for. I would love to know why it happened though, I didn't even have a spare sport power base, as we could have used that until I get a replacement, I think in future I'll keep a spare power base for back up. ;)

 

Ahh, thats interesting. So the MOSFETs have gotten too hot in operation and have now expired. However, not enough power has been pulled to actually blow the fuse. Its unusual to see both sets blown, so I'd say you've just overused it, and a drive for cheap design by Scaley means its a 'that'll do' PB.

 

The repair of the MOSFETs is not that hard if a: you have some, b: you have the tools. With my PB4-Pro testing, I could almost replace them in my sleep - but that doesn't help you...

 

Quit the PB, but keep the powersupply, and save up to get yourself an APB6. Buying another PB4 with PSU will serve you in good stead for the APB.

 

Ian

Edited by MIH

Linux: A '90s reincarnation of a '80s Operating System based on a '70s design philosophy

Website: www.electricimages.co.nz

InCar-PRO: Chip Main Page

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leaving things in the hands of children can bring all sorts of results. With digital for example two cars can be put head to head (nose to nose) and FULL throttle applied just to see what happens. Kids find this "entertaining" .

Boys will be boys :-)

Drifter


www.sydneyslotcars.com

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hello, I have a problem, and that is my Son was around tonight and for the first time together we was playing about with the Scalextric track I have built up, the power base is a 4 car digital and is virtually brand new, and after a couple of hours racing around the green light went out and the power base would no longer work, I tried the fuse in the plug and no luck, the power base felt quite warm to touch but I would say this is probably normal after being on and used for a few hours?. It seems to me that the power base has failed?, but is this likely to just happen as it is new and only had a few weeks use, although it was purchased a few years ago it was only used twice and then stored away until recently when I got into the hobby again. Could anything have caused it to fail, or am I just unlucky, or has it just cut out as it was overheating and hopefully it will work again after cooling down?. I am feeling a bit gutted as we was having a great time, and if it has broken I wont be able to get another for a few weeks now!. Any suggestions? :unsure:

 

I was thinking maybe a short circuit had happened, possibly with one of the Cars brushes, I was thinking this because at the time the power base stopped working I noticed that the brushes on one of the Cars was not in the best shape and one side of the brush was pushed back and up a bit and was out of alignment and could have touched the brush on the other side, could this have caused a short?. I was reading the leaflet that came with my digital set, about trouble shooting and it mentions about short circuits, saying that after a short the power base light will flash and then I must wait 60 seconds for the power base to re-set and to unplug and re plug the power base and then it should work again, but my power base is not working at all. So maybe a short but no re-set?, so is my power base busted for good now?. :huh:

 

Short Answer:

The internal fuse has blown.

 

Long Answer:

The Green light is driven by the CPU. If the CPU doesn't start up, then the green light doesn't come on. There is a reset circuit within the PB which will force the CPU to stay in reset when the 12v line after that fuse is dead.

 

Fix:

You need to ascertain the cause - your initial diagnosis is likely to be correct - a long short circuit. But I seldom see the PB fuse blowing as the CPU already monitors and shuts down the system before this occurs. Also standard PSUs for this powerbase cannot really supply enough current for the fuse to blow - its possible, but not likely.

 

You will need to bypass the circuit board mounted fuse with another 5A fuse. If it blows again, then you have another fault, usually caused by output driver failure, which does occur. This is a more complicated fix, and involves replacing the drive MOSFETs.

 

In short (excuse the pun) you likely have a pretty major failure - its repairable, but questionable as to value. You may want to consider an upgrade to the new APB6 as repair could be half of the price of that PB.

 

Ian

hello, thanks so much for your really informative reply. I forgot mention after I tried using the power base again it got really warm/hot to touch quickly, no way this was not meant to happen. But still no green light, so power was getting to the base unit, but no green light and it was feeling like it was overheating too. I have taken the power base to pieces a few times and I can't see anything that looks wrong, but most likely wouldn't anyway, I don't have clue where the fuse is that you mention, I guess it is not anything like a normal type plug fuse at all! Not to worry, I didn't realise that I can buy a new one on eBay for £12.00(just power base, not PSU), inc P+P which is not too bad really, just means waiting until next weekend now, before we can race again. I do want to buy the 6 Car PB but just can't afford it at the moment. Thanks for all your help. :huh:

 

The fuse is a small white surface mount device with just 5 written on it. Be aware there's 2 of them, and the other is marked .5 (this one runs the CPU and is unlikely to blow) They are marked F1 and F2 respectively. If you have a meter, F1 is likely open circuit.

 

If you wanna check the heat source, power the thing up with the lid off. With the fuse working, touch each of the 4 square black MOSFETs, they should not be warm (nor hot) if there is nothing on the track. If they are, the MOSFETs need replacing.

 

Ian

hi, yes I opened the power base up and plugged it in and the 4 square MOSFETS are what are getting hot, I unplugged the power base and touched the MOSFETS they were all feeling warm/hot, also that part of the surface of the green circuit board around the MOSFETS looks kind of messy, a clear brown liquid stuff looks as if it has melted a bit directly around the 4 MOSFETS, this is the only part of the circuit board in the power base that looks like this, so this is most likely due to the over heating as it was feeling fairly hot. I can see the 2 white fuses exactly as you describe and they look to be fine, but I'm not sure if they would look different if they had blown, also I wouldn't know how to replace them or bypass them. So yes it is definitely had it as far as I'm concerned and most likely not worth repairing at all, considering the price I can buy another one for. I would love to know why it happened though, I didn't even have a spare sport power base, as we could have used that until I get a replacement, I think in future I'll keep a spare power base for back up. ;)

 

Ahh, thats interesting. So the MOSFETs have gotten too hot in operation and have now expired. However, not enough power has been pulled to actually blow the fuse. Its unusual to see both sets blown, so I'd say you've just overused it, and a drive for cheap design by Scaley means its a 'that'll do' PB.

 

The repair of the MOSFETs is not that hard if a: you have some, b: you have the tools. With my PB4-Pro testing, I could almost replace them in my sleep - but that doesn't help you...

 

Quit the PB, but keep the powersupply, and save up to get yourself an APB6. Buying another PB4 with PSU will serve you in good stead for the APB.

 

Ian

Is there a set amount of time that I should be using the Scalextric for before having a rest so it doesn't over heat, this never really occurred to me, it was actually my Son who said to me I think we should have a break now!, as he was sitting next to the PB and said he felt it was hot on his leg when his leg touched it, but never said anything, until it stopped working!, maybe if I had noticed myself before it properly overheated it would have been ok if we just gave it a rest. I wouldn't thought they could overheat and bust. Hey guess what I got?, another 4 Car PB on eBay for 99p + £2.50 P+P, not bad ay, I noticed that the newer models have little slots in the top - maybe to let the heat out!, my old PB did not have these. The reason it was 99p was because it has been painted over lightly in grey paint, apparently it is water based so will come off, but I'll see about that, it will do until I get a new 6 Car PB anyway, I shall definitely be getting a 6 Car PB as soon as I can really.

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Is there a set amount of time that I should be using the Scalextric for before having a rest so it doesn't over heat, this never really occurred to me, it was actually my Son who said to me I think we should have a break now!, as he was sitting next to the PB and said he felt it was hot on his leg when his leg touched it, but never said anything, until it stopped working!, maybe if I had noticed myself before it properly overheated it would have been ok if we just gave it a rest. I wouldn't thought they could overheat and bust. Hey guess what I got?, another 4 Car PB on eBay for 99p + £2.50 P+P, not bad ay, I noticed that the newer models have little slots in the top - maybe to let the heat out!, my old PB did not have these. The reason it was 99p was because it has been painted over lightly in grey paint, apparently it is water based so will come off, but I'll see about that, it will do until I get a new 6 Car PB anyway, I shall definitely be getting a 6 Car PB as soon as I can really.

 

Wow, cheap. Sounds like the best option in the interim.

 

As far as time is concerned, I've used mine for longer without issues - however heat dissipation, while important, is unlikely to be the main problem. For the price of the new one... just use it!

 

Ian


Linux: A '90s reincarnation of a '80s Operating System based on a '70s design philosophy

Website: www.electricimages.co.nz

InCar-PRO: Chip Main Page

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My 4 car Power Base arrived today from eBay!, the track section was painted in grey water based paint and was easy to wash off, but I ended up just soldering on my old piece of track of my broken power base, also I noticed that their are 2 types of these 4 Car Power Bases, the newer version has ventilation holes in the top of the power base, I guess to let the heat out!, also inside the newer version which I received from eBay - it is slightly different inside and has extra heat sinks over the MOSFETS, the parts that burnt out on my old power base, so I presume this must be a newer updated version of the 4 Car Power Base. So after I changed over the painted section of track, I ended up with a new looking updated version 4 Car PB for a bargain price, it will be perfect until I get a new 6 Car PB, which I know is a 100% must have item, will be great to switch between analogue and digital and time my laps too!, I can't wait. I've also ordered a sport analogue power base, plug and 2 controllers just for back up/spare, and to test out my analogue cars until I get my 6 Car PB, £6 all in - from jadlam racing also on eBay. :)

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My 4 car Power Base arrived today from eBay!, the track section was painted in grey water based paint and was easy to wash off, but I ended up just soldering on my old piece of track of my broken power base, also I noticed that their are 2 types of these 4 Car Power Bases, the newer version has ventilation holes in the top of the power base, I guess to let the heat out!, also inside the newer version which I received from eBay - it is slightly different inside and has extra heat sinks over the MOSFETS, the parts that burnt out on my old power base, so I presume this must be a newer updated version of the 4 Car Power Base. So after I changed over the painted section of track, I ended up with a new looking updated version 4 Car PB for a bargain price, it will be perfect until I get a new 6 Car PB, which I know is a 100% must have item, will be great to switch between analogue and digital and time my laps too!, I can't wait. I've also ordered a sport analogue power base, plug and 2 controllers just for back up/spare, and to test out my analogue cars until I get my 6 Car PB, £6 all in - from jadlam racing also on eBay. :)

 

You wait for my PB4-Pro update - you'll get analogue out of that old PB4 yet (admittedly only one lane...) :)

 

Ian


Linux: A '90s reincarnation of a '80s Operating System based on a '70s design philosophy

Website: www.electricimages.co.nz

InCar-PRO: Chip Main Page

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