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IanM

New Track - Gone Routed

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Hi all

After asking if a plastic track would survive temperature extremes and not being sure that it would I decided to go for a routed track.

The layout was based on the plastic set-up I had - I am not fond of tight twisty sections, preferring longish corners followed by straight sections.

As I run without magnets this allows for nice long slides around corners (reminds me of my rallying days I suppose).

The table needs to fold up out of the way so I copied the "rolling legs" idea that others have used. The table is 3.7m x 1.7m and is not too hard to roll up.img5126v.jpg

 

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As you can see a pretty simple layout but one that I am very happy with.

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This is what it looks like tipped on its side.

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Remove the centre pin and the legs and braces fold down.

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And all folded up I regain nearly all my working space in the shed.

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So now to the taping and wiring (I am electrically challenged, so that could be fun) then on to landscaping (being artistically challenged could make that even more fun).

If I can come up with something half as good as some that I have seen on this site I will be rapt.

I look forward to pinching (researching by any other name) ideas from you guys here.

IanM

 

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Your track & base look great Ian.

 

I really like how you managed to be able to regain your workspace. The way things are looking with my track in progress, is that my car may have to get used to living out doors for the rest of its life. I think my investment in the track is already worth more than the car originally cost me! <yikes>

Edited by inveterate retiree

I used to be surprised that I was still surprised by my own stupidity, finding it strangely refreshing.

Well I don't now.

I'm over it!

 

Photos of my track in progress.

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It looks like the Queensland Raceway horse-shoe, only more interesting because it has some kinks and elevation changes.

A good use of available space, and the bonus of folding away when not in use (which I assume will not be very often once you start driving on it.)

As for wiring challenges, there are some good diagrams on the web on how to do it. Make your control station areas large enough make installing sockets, fuses, switches etc. easier. Consider leaving some space so later on you can install switches for reversing the direction.

 

Looking good,

Holty

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That's looking real good already, Ian. As someone looking to tackling something like this myself, it is a bit of an inspiration as I've never done something like this before. What track surface are you going with? Keep up the great work.

 

Cheers,

Jon

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Thanks for the kind words guys - a few replies.

Davnic, I am in Williamstown.

Holty - I realised (with some dismay) that it did in fact look like the much criticized "paperclip" - while the real thing may be a bore to watch hopefully mine will be fun to drive. My idea is to wire in the reversing switches from the word go as it should be good to drive in both directions.

M3Fanatic - after a roam around Bunning the other day I bought a sample pot of Dulux Tuscan Suede effects - I put this on a test piece last night and am really happy with the result. It has a very slight texture and the colour looks quite realistic. Depending on how you roll it on you get very slight colour differences, just like real bitumen. I got an old car and rubbed it fairly hard on the surface with no ill effects on the car (or the paint). A sample pot cost me $10 and I reckon two might just about be enough, or a bigger tin for $30.

Here is what it looks like.

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(The much lighter section at the end is just where I was rolling the paint out of the roller)

Picture looks a wee bit darker than real life, but id depends on the lighting.

Hopefully this weekend I will get the tape down and start on the wiring.

IanM

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hi guys new to all this but not at computers looking to buy apb cable for the new c7042 in australia plus update my pit stop game to pitpro and buy "ssdc software v5" or "pc time counter" any help thanks guys???

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hi guys new to all this but not at computers looking to buy apb cable for the new c7042 in australia plus update my pit stop game to pitpro and buy "ssdc software v5" or "pc time counter" any help thanks guys???

 

the suede paint gives a good road effect from where I'm sitting. when you say you rubed the car you did mean the tyres? & you say tape, do you mean copper tape aposed to braid? I've been contemplating a routed track myself but every time I try to save $, I buy cars. Your track looks good can't wait to see progress and hear of your choices.

Edited by neil

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Neil

 

What I rubbed was the body of the car, to see if the texture on the track would mark the car, which it did not (a problem with ferrodore from what I gather).

I am really pleased with its appearance on my test piece so will definately use it on the track.

I will use copper tape initially until I am completely happy with the layout, then go to braid if the copper gives any problem.

I too waited a long time before making my track as I was a bit worried about making a hash of it, but as long as you are careful it really is not that difficult.

My only drama was that I did not take into account the effect the elevation changes would have on aligning the track sections (4 sections) - I had one bad alignment problem that meant I had to cut a small section out and make a new piece. Other than that, so far so good.

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I will be interesting to see how the suede paint holds up , if it goes sour you can probably clear coat over it with Cabbots as an option . re ferrodore scratches , yes it does , I have ferrodore but I think any surface will scratch a car anyway in the end , it all depends on how often its being raced upside down .

 

Nice track layout and fold away job , looks like it will race well and you still have some room around the track for some scenery , places to put cars etc

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It lives!

After a weekend of painting and wiring it all works (much to my surprise).

The painting was easy enough but the wiring took a lot longer than I thought it would - I downloaded a diagram and followed it faithfully and lo and behold it all works as it should, reversing switch and all.

As I hoped it is good fun to drive, with a surprising difference in how cars drive. Some are really good, nice and smooth and slide around the corners beautifully, others hop and bounce a bit and some slide around like they are on ice. I guess it is all down to tyres, so will have to look into that at some point.

The following pictures give an idea of how it looks - where the cars are parked by the side of the track is where the pits will go - very basic pits as I want to go with a 60's or 70's look.

Anyway after having a good play I will slowly start on scenery.img5144x.jpg

 

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G'day IanM,Nice job,I bet you get all your cars running well before you finish the scenery. Fast cars= slow scenery .regards digby

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Well done its looking good , the elevation changes will make it challenging and much nicer when you have all the scenery in place .

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I hope your enjoying the driving of your track, but as mentioned above if you playing your not working :D .

Hey I'm interested in using the tape first as you have, but seeing my track will be out under C/port i figure I'll definately have to use braid.

Which leaves me thinking(I think a lot).

 

With the elavations you have leaving a radius surface, Would this give an uneven depth whilst routing the braid recess?

 

obviously the Router base plate would determine this, has anyone had experiance with this?

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As I hoped it is good fun to drive, with a surprising difference in how cars drive. Some are really good, nice and smooth and slide around the corners beautifully, others hop and bounce a bit and some slide around like they are on ice. I guess it is all down to tyres, so will have to look into that at some point.

 

 

Ian, having cars behave differently I found was a good thing. You can have super fast sports cars, or a challenging 'wet' race for slippery cars. You can even handicap yourself with a slippery car versus a less skilled opponent with a more stable car. Don't be tempted to make all of your cars run super-quick and smooth, it will take away variety. Just get the poor performers to be manageable.

 

Holty

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Ian, great work on the elevations, it really looks smooth! I particularly like this corner-

 

img5146f.jpg

 

 

Neil- you will need to route the recess before adding the elevations.

With a small enough router base you may be able to route it after elevating, but we're talking a small router base!


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Holty, you are correct in what you say - I thought about while having another play and came to that conclusion also.

There a few cars that tip over too easily so I have added a bit of weight to them but that is all I plan to do at this stage.

I do have one car (Fly Porsche) that is absolutely hopeless (no grip whatsoever) but I will leave that for now and see if getting a little bit of rubber down will make a difference.

IanM

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Thought I should show what has been happening on my (as yet un-named) track since my original posts.

Scenery is coming along, still a lot to do but is starting to take shape. To my surprise I am enjoying this part of it a lot, so i have been dividing my time between scenery and running cars.

This is the cupboard I made to house the cars (when folded up the track leans up against this).

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Some shots of the track to date.

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Lots more to do, but getting there.

 

IanM

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Nice work. It's funny how often folks show surprise at how much they enjoy doing scenery. :)

 

Embs


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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