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BMR

Oval Track Do'S And Don'Ts

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Heres a pic of my old short course oval.

as you can see its an 8 laner but the outside lane is way to close to the wall and the inside is to tight IMO

so i only ever used it as a 3 laner (lanes 5,6,7).

it is 8ft long(4ft each half) and 6ft wide. there is also 4ft straight extension pieces.

 

DSC_1068.jpg

 

More in the track build section

 

Kai


Love,

Kai smileyhawk.jpg

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Cool nice bit of track there Kai , excellent as far as being able to add 4 ft extensions or even more if you ever wanted more Im swaying along similar lines as far as having the ability to be a shorter or longer layout as needed mainly because I will run 1/24 and 1/32 . I suspect any 1/32 players will want the longest straights as possible anyway so it mostly boils down to braid and MDF board costs for me .

 

My gut feeling tells me the outer lane will be faster and inside slower but in the end reletively similar laps times could be run . Has that been your experience on the oval layout ?

 

On my main track I have a large radius at the end of the main straight and with two similar drivers on the track the outer lane can fairly much keep up with the inner lane because the outer carries more speed through the corner and on the exit . The outer lane covers around 2 - 2.5 metres more track length compared to the inner most lane

 

Im aiming to have an oval track sit on this end of the main track between the blue marshals box in the middle of the track and running down to the end . That will be about 4.8 metres or so . I could extend it further up to the computer but the middle of the track is higher off the floor so it may end up too high to marshal easily ? I could lower the main track but thats a fair bit of messing around and the height serves well for many of the older marshals I have (including me ) as far as bending the old back bone goes

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Edited by BMR

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Steve the layout looks great but I just worry that 75mm will be a bit close in the corners for your 1/24s. On my track even at 90mm it can get close. Theres nothing better than running side by side through the corners, at 75mm I doubt you could do that. 1/32s yeah but probably not 1/24s. Im loving the shape, looks great.

 

This is the trouble I have, whats great for 1/32 is not so great for 1/24 & vise versa. Finding a happy medium is the key.

 

Nice chevelle, Ive got a soft spot for bombers! I see your chevelle & raise you a charger. Mines on a Artin chassis. Dont underestimate a artin on the oval. With little work with all stock running ger it can be a great runner.

 

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Its great to see a bit more interest in oval racing in Aussie land. I thought I was the only one for a while there. 1/2 to 3/4 of my cars are oval racers.

Edited by MOPARDEVIL

Thanks

Greg

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Nice , reminds me I still have one or two of Phils resins to get going , I think they will end up as Bombers because bombers are perfect for me , Im a crappy painter , so bad that I have had people say my best efforts look like a bomber job :lol:

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My gut feeling tells me the outer lane will be faster and inside slower but in the end reletively similar laps times could be run . Has that been your experience on the oval layout ?

 

 

 

Yeah thats about right. Its much easier to run the outside lane than the inside. As you say, cars run faster on the outside than the inside. With a good driver the inside lane will turn quicker laps. But its much easier to get consistant laps on the outside. I personally prefer the outside, it just has better flow. In saying that I very rarely turn my lap counter on.


Thanks

Greg

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Here ya go Mopar pick your favourite colour - and at the end is the poster I did for a proxy a few years back asx well

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vcbluish.jpg

2008proxypic.jpg

Edited by BMR

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I entered that proxy. Mine was the #9 camaro. The Magnet is still on my fridge. Great drawing btw.

I remember , that was a good proxy , sports sedans were great . also no dramas from the entrants regarding petty arguements about wheel nuts being the wrong colour or tow bars hanging out too far :lol:

 

I remember the green VW it went well but developed some gear troubles I think from memory , I also liked the little Anglia it looked small and no threat but it was a surprise package in the end . Cant recall who won the 2008 proxy .... probably Phil aaagain :rolleyes::lol:

Edited by BMR

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This is Saturday mornings effort , I put a few steel fence rails on the track and set some levels out just to see where it may all end up as far as height goes and where it may touch the main track . Im guessing the steel would be at the most outer points if it were at this height and the inner sections would slope downwards from there . It ended up about level with my beer gut so most players should be able to reach in for a deslotted car if I can . :P

I did have some MDF pieces in place to guesstimate track angles so I could get a better idea of how it may look but forgot to take a photo before removing it all so the kids could play around while I watched the clipsal .

I am trying to consider the weight of it all when its finished . I will most likely go for 12mm MDF at about 600mm wide for the 4 lanes along the straights , slightly wider at the tri ovals curve mid way ? maybe 700mm ? guessing here remember . As for the corner sections at each end , again 12mm MDF using most of the 1200 x 2400 board with a curve cut out around the outer lane Im expecting a total width across the lanes around 800mm ? What does a 2400 x 1200 x 12mm MDF board weigh ?? anyone got aclue there .

As for a suitable frame to go under the whole lot that some cables can attach to ?

I have the fence rail pictured below already its about 50 x 20 galv rail and about 1.5 - 2mm thick sorry not real accurate there but the sheds locked and Im inside now . Any engineer designers out there sling in your ideas here please , I will have a fair go at it myself but I am not afraid to listen to other ideas and take critisism on my plan for a frame (last pic) at the bottom . I have 3.6 metres between the shed roof trusses which are 150 x 70 x 2.5mm - they will be the support when its winched up so the frame cable pick up points will be 3.6m apart along the sides of the track which is going to be around 6.5 - 7 metres long by 2.4 - 2.6 m wide . Nothing in the middle of the oval is necassary but if it can be dressed up Im thinking 3mm board and paint with a few 1/32 model parked about the place ? Not fussed about that much .

 

Anyway any suggestions are welcome , its way cheaper to make my mistakes here on paper so to speak than after the flags dropped

 

Some steel rails I have laid over to get an eye full of ideas rolling around my head

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Frame idea

th_basicTriOvalframelayoutwithangles.png

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Steve, By my shed scales a sheet of 12mm MDF is 28kg.Nice track,good luck with the oval.regards Digby

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Cheers digby , I was guesstimating the whole lot may end up somewhere around 250kg .

 

Figuring I would use about four 2.4 x 1.2 x 12mm sheets , then there is side barrier walls probably use 3mm MDF there and a steel frame of sorts . My main concern is the steel frame , not so much the weight but how ridgid it needs to be so it doesn't flex in the middle when its raised up . I was thinking the side barrier walls could be a double layer of 3mm MDF glued together after its shaped up and in place would give it some strength along its length .

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Hey Steve I went 105mm on my lane spacing perfect for 1/32 and 1/24, the 1/32 cars don't look out of place and there is enough room for the 24's, also I went 3 layers of 3mm MDF on my walls and it is as strong as anything..You could always come and have a butcher's hook next time you are in the area :lol:

Edited by Syd

West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Hey Steve I went 105mm on my lane spacing perfect for 1/32 and 1/24, the 1/32 cars don't look out of place and there is enough room for the 24's, also I went 3 layers of MDF on my walls and it is as strong as anything..You could always come and have a butcher's hook next time you are in the area :lol:

Mate I would love to get over to Perth again I thought it was a great place , maybe in November

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This is what I have come up with as a system to raise and lower the track in the shed , the pulleys will need to be bolted through the shed roof trusses and the winch will bolt to the shed post . Im no engineer so if anyone sees a problem please say so . I dont want it falling down .

I have had a bit of a look at pulleys online and in my local area but the only things I have found so far are marine grade stainless steel .

50mm pulley x 4 @ $78.00 each and 100mm puleys x 2 $109.00 each - yeeesh big $$$ Can anyone offer me a cheaper solution

The whole track and steel frame will be around 200 - 250 kg

Cable size is also a concern for weight

 

click the pic to enlarge it

 

th_cablesandpulleysjpeg.jpg

Edited by BMR

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Steve, I think you'd have to think about using spreader bars or more pulleys. I've used fence rail (35mmx20mm)to support shade cloth over a span of 3.5m ,and I just so happen to have some 12mm track bits (about 1/3 sheet)that I've been working on today.I could swing a piece of track and let you know the result if you like?

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Steve, I think you'd have to think about using spreader bars or more pulleys. I've used fence rail (35mmx20mm)to support shade cloth over a span of 3.5m ,and I just so happen to have some 12mm track bits (about 1/3 sheet)that I've been working on today.I could swing a piece of track and let you know the result if you like?

Yes thanks digby , all tests and help appreciated it saves me wasting money or building anything that could be risky as far as breaking at hurting anyone .

re spreader bars , I think I know what you mean digby , A spreader bar / square tube that all 4 cables would attach to , then from there the main lifting cable from the winch would attach to that spreader bar / square tube so all the cables lift equally .

The idea of more than 4 cables along the side is also worth looking at , I have drawn my idea up using 4 lifting points because of where the trusses are and where the oval track will be in relation to the main track underneath it . Putting in more trusses or something else similar to enable extra cables for more lifting points would be nice but it will take me longer ( gotta get more cashola together ) but it may be necassary huh .

 

Cheers to all for any info - Thats why Im here asking questions , more info means a better job of it in the end .

 

I am also going to add some extra bracing to the trusses , I believe carpenters call it a collar tie , also some bracing from the truss to the posts as a bit extra , cant hurt to be stronger than needed can it ? I will also add some fence rail to run between the trusses so the tension on the cables doesn't pull the trusses inwards towards each other so to speak , the purlins hold the trusses at the top but something at the lower section of the truss should stop the truss twisting ? yeah ? mm? The more I get into it the more $$ is needed but its gotta be safe as well as fun to race on .

Thanks again digby for the weight on the 12mm MDF sheets , dont suppose you know what the fence rail weighs per metre ?

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Forget the marine grade pulleys, look for pulleys off exterior blinds, they are galv and a fraction of your quoted price.

I looked at blind pulleys but nothing at Bunnings had a load limit rating on them - all chinese made metal castings , I wouldn't hang a bucket full of water from them .

 

I emailed the people at Binks yachts , they emailed back with this pulley option - $13.55 each see the link below

 

http://binksonline.com.au/186-yacht-fittings/187-blocks/46-exit-lead-blocks/ronstan/539-single-lead-rf919

Materials:

 

•Grade 316 stainless steel load housing

 

Features:

 

Sheave Diam (mm) 29

Max Rope (mm) 6

Fasteners (mm) 5

Max Working Load (kg) 600

Breaking Load (kg) 1200

Weight (g) 50

 

Gotta remember though Chris , I cant cheapskate on these things after all its your noggin hanging under it all :lol:

Edited by BMR

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Steve, I think you'd have to think about using spreader bars or more pulleys. I've used fence rail (35mmx20mm)to support shade cloth over a span of 3.5m ,and I just so happen to have some 12mm track bits (about 1/3 sheet)that I've been working on today.I could swing a piece of track and let you know the result if you like?

pictures may help to see what I mean with bracing the trusses and posts , also The red bit is the spreader bar Im talking about , is that what you meant digby ? Paul W had a look and a chat about the oval track idea last Monday night and recommended using large diameter pulley wheels on a spreader bar

 

th_spreaderbar.jpg

th_shedtrussbracing1.jpg

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BMR

 

Agreed ! Bunnings are sh!t! I would sti;; be worried about the safety of the bucket. I wouldnt even hang the bucket of water either.

 

For the money that you end up investing in your track do it first time and do it right. Try either a boating or rigging joint. I dont know what you have over there but I gt all my pullies from a joint called Bullivants. B) I used to park my XU1 under my track and didnt want to take any chances...and even if I didnt, I still wouldnt take any chances. I reckon my table weighs in at 200 odd kgs and I would hate to have my 4.8 x 2.4m table come resting on my head if I got under it.

 

Once up use a couple of truckies snatch straps for a secondary fail safe. If you start to release the truckies straps and there is a bit of movement - you will know something is not right.

 

Dave

Edited by GTR XU-1

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pontiacpark014.jpg

Steve, Next time I'll use a sack of spuds.The fence rail held better than I thought ,even with this piece(15kg) swung from the middle by one hook it only dropped 20mm. For a permanent job I'd still give some more support every 1500mm or so.A Rigger would be a good person to ask.At a gueuss I'd allow 1kg/m of fence rail. Always better to over engineer a project like this.

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Wow there's no flies on you digby , in there and done it asap .

I have just got back from the dreaded Bunnings warehouse , grabbed some 3mm mdf to use as a template track layout . Its way lighter for me to play around with while I get something of a tri oval layout sitting over the main track . Im messing around on my own so theres no lifting help handy during the week days .

Once Im happy with all the angles and dangles I can use the 3mm as templates on some 12mm sheets later , then the 3mm stuff will cut up to become fencing around the outside so its a minimal loss on material costs for the project . Plus I get to play around in the shed and actually do more than draw up ideas and rethink it . " Ahh love the smell of mdf in the morning " :lol:

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Steve, I just skimmed through reading what you are up to with your oval. I dont know if this is any help for you. But if you are using metal wire for pulleys etc, when I was shopping around looking at doing some wire balustrading on my house I found this place to be by far the cheapest for both wire & fixings. I dont know if its the same stuff you use for pulleys etc.

 

Anyway heres the link - http://www.miamistainless.com/

 

Hope that helps


Thanks

Greg

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Steve, I just skimmed through reading what you are up to with your oval. I dont know if this is any help for you. But if you are using metal wire for pulleys etc, when I was shopping around looking at doing some wire balustrading on my house I found this place to be by far the cheapest for both wire & fixings. I dont know if its the same stuff you use for pulleys etc.

 

Anyway heres the link - http://www.miamistainless.com/

 

Hope that helps

Cheers for the link Greg , I will send off an enquiery tomorrow , they have some details for sizes but nothing for the load bearing abilities on their pulley blocks , I will also check out their wire a bit more .

 

I went a bit crazy in the shed today and made a full size 3mm mdf mock up of the tri oval layout , all the drawings and measurements I made up are fine and quite close to what has ended up facing me at the end of the day .

 

Gotta say its worthwhile spending a little cash to make a lighter template version before cutting into the thicker / more expensive mdf . It probably would have worked out ok still using the 12mm mdf straight away but by using the 3mm it was easy and by doing it this way I managed to solve a few unseen problems as far as fitting it over the main track .

I will post some pictures later after dinner .

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