Oakland Raceway V2
Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:35 AM
The actual layout is very good,could be a Tasie designed track!
Posted 13 June 2011 - 01:58 PM
Actually the entire fit within the space I have available is based around each corner radius and turn in and out amounts being inter-woven to make the track fit work, so it wouldn't be possible to move a squeeze. The squeezes are there for fit, not just effect. No two turns on any lane of the track have the same radii or turn in/turn out amounts.
If someone can't pass for a 1/4 lap it is no big deal really, but if there is any reasonable speed differential between two cars on adjacent lanes 1/2 or 3/4, then passing should be possible because inside lane becomes outside lane in the left to right switch between the squeezes.
I'l take that for a compliment
Posted 22 June 2011 - 05:58 PM
GWH-NZ on forum, - AKA Grant from our club, has been busily toiling away today on my track.
Thankfully all the sections lined up off the CNC machine.
It's good to finally see how the layout looks in real size. I LOOKS a lot bigger than the original Oakland Raceway, but is only 250mm longer, 200mm wider, plus the small extension at back.
I gain a 4th lane, and 70cm in running length.
Rod my CAD guy - AKA the CAD gun for hire, will eventually get around to showing up here. He is part of the Taranaki/New Plymouth club, and builder of their 3rd track which CharlesX was showcasing recently.
Posted 22 June 2011 - 06:01 PM
Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction
Posted 22 June 2011 - 06:03 PM
Posted 22 June 2011 - 06:16 PM
Posted 22 June 2011 - 06:54 PM
Posted 23 June 2011 - 04:07 PM
Looks even better than on the drawing board. I think you have done really well to get such an interesting 4 lane track into such a small space. Considering track base is only 4.8m long I think you have done very well to fit in a couple of good straights plus other fast and slower sections.
Cannot wait to try although in hindsight I have never driven on your old one.
Chas Le Breton
Posted 23 June 2011 - 04:53 PM
You're kidding Charles - didn't you and Paul run any laps when you've been over during the nationals?
You'll have to negotiate with a new owner in Papakura (south Auckland), as it is now up there awaiting unpack.
Stuck it on "Trade Me" (our domestic E-Bay equivalent guys) on Wednesday evening, and it was sold by 9.15pm, collected Tuesday morning.
Slow day today - and i DO have to work, despite ugly rumours to the contrary
Clubbies - good news - more lights in the garage today, 'Will the sparkie' replaced the dimming fluoros and fitted another double 1.5metre at the dark end.....
another reason for slow progress, 3 rounds of coffee for Will, mrs-Will, and assorted randoms during the day, plus another batch of tradies sauntering in and out of the house to rebuild our failed ensuite shower.
I feel like a cafe, 400 grams of coffee beans in 4 days......
Much easier to do a tidy wiring job on an open frame on the floor, than once the thing is on legs with the roadway on top.
Need to run all the cable for track lights tomorrow and for the main control panel - power over-ride, a DC meter, track lights etc. Waiting for the CNC shop to cut a custom panel in 3mm acrylic to mount all those components.
Finished off the main driver station panel and wired all the track power, but feeling a bit crook, so didn't get as much done as I'd hoped.
Skipping club tonight for an early night.
Posted 25 June 2011 - 12:52 PM
Main console panel components pre-wired, and 13 LED lighting circuits for track lighting, plus the timing bridge. Just need a few more cable clips to tidy up the LED wiring. Everything needs clipping in place so it doesn't hang down, as the underside of the track will be crammed full of 'stuff".
Posted 29 June 2011 - 05:21 PM
I had a few dramas with the main control panel. Discovered something I didn't know. - Not all auto 12 volt switches are created equal. Some of them with indicator lights create a dead short while switching on and off. This kept tripping out my power supply. It took an hour of trial and error to figure that out.
Had to disconnect the indicator bulbs on 2 switches on the main panel, will replace them with some of another type later.
I wanted to testr all the wiring before screwing down the track, as it is so much harder to trace and fix later.
The "holes" in the centre will have removable panels of scenery, so I can work on those panels anywhere I want., and reach the middle parts of the track easily with them removed, by standing in "the hole" in the middle.
Posted 29 June 2011 - 05:32 PM
Is it an optical illusion or do some joins not match up correctly across all lanes. Hopefully it is my eyesight. Perhaps boards are not laying completely flat giving that impression.
Looking very good though. Like you idea of liftout bits for scenery which double as access for track maintenance.
Chas Le Breton
Posted 29 June 2011 - 06:38 PM
Posted 04 July 2011 - 12:55 PM
Hmmm, not sure this looks much different when I see the pics, but the gains are rebated and the roadway is now all glued togeether. I used a "back-block" system, 20cm wide stips of 12mm MDF running across the width of each join, glued with a polyester glue "Gorilla" for the NZ guys; clamped and screwed down. I started off with a loose join that had 0.1 - 0.2mm uneven surfaces at the join despite my best attempts, but got better after 2 or 3 joins. By the end, they were pretty good, but I went back over each join with the orbital; ran it dead flat, then re-routed the "gain" for the braid across the joint just to make sure that was flat as well.
Now have the elevations partly done, waiting for a glue and clamp session to harden off, then I'll go a bit further tonight, and should have that part all finished sometime tomorrow before the wet weather sets in again and stops me cutting outside. I only have 6 "D" clamps, so that is a limiting factor on speed. should have sponged some off munter, only just thought of that......
Top of the hill is 330mm above base level. Other end just rises about 55mm to create a little visual interest.
The MDF is feeling "somewhat stressed" right now, - it is going to feel a lot more stressed when I attack it with trailer strops and a ratchet later tonight. 12mm has more give than I expected.
So far I haven't screwed through from the top at all, will try and fix everthing from below, so I don't have fill holes to "puff up" later in the paint.
Also unsure whether to fill the seams at the joints, as paint may not fill, but the joints are smooth and won't disturb the cars, so maybe better left alone rather than have bondi cracking at the joints later. - Opinions on that much welcomed.
Bit concerned about visibility of the two inside lanes far side of hairpin as you come out of the under-pass, but not much I can do now apart from trim the roadway a little. It should improve a bit when the elevations are finished and I correct the camber of the roadway above/in front of that part. "She'll be right"
Posted 04 July 2011 - 04:18 PM
SCMR build thread
Woodbrook Valley build thread
"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"
Posted 04 July 2011 - 04:50 PM
Re joins I would not try to fill as I notice with Green Acres with regular shifting/tipping to lean against wall some of our joins have cracked despite considerable support. Like a construction join I would tend to almost open up so when they go close to filling with paint any shift/crack will be along defined line. With permanent/non-shifting layout this would not be a problem providing temperature variation/moisture levels OK.
We added fillet about 300mm under joins in raised portion but shorter where at level and there has still been some movement. Not sure what you have put under yours. We have probably made sure road bed stays good but light frame likely allows whole assembly to twist slightly when shifting contributing to aforementioned.
This has not affected racing in anyway however and is not detected when driving around track.
Chas Le Breton
Posted 14 July 2011 - 03:47 PM
I have fitted the in-fills between roadway sections, and cut most of the barriers which fit on the base level sections of roadway.
One thing I struggled to find when I was researching, so copy here, was how to fit barrier walls to raised track areas.
My solution has been to glue and screw 40 x 20mm section dressed pine under the MDF at regular points.
The MDF walls can be screwed to that.
I cut bits roughly to length - excess can be trimmed after fitting with a jigsaw to flush with the edge of the treack roadway. Plenty of stong glue, then clamped in place.
One layer clamped in place, when they had fixed, I added the ones seen sitting on the roadway, and will leave that lot to harden tonight while I go racing.
I am using one on the flat as a fixing point for the 6mm MDF walls, then anohter underneath that, protruding further, for the walls to sit on. The protrusion comes out to the "square edges" of where the sheet of MDF began before I cut out the roadway.
So right now it looks like this.
Next step tomorrow will be to build up on top of the extended pieces of pine, with enough height to bring the top plate of MDF up to the height I want. In my case, that will be to bring it flush with the outside edge of the top of the MDF barrier wall, giving the effect that the track is a roadway running through a cutting.
Posted 16 July 2011 - 08:19 PM
Posted 17 July 2011 - 08:42 AM
8 X National Champion
1 X Retired
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