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Stripping Ninco Shells

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I have a white Ninco Ranger, like the one below, that I picked up cheaply on fleabay and have a mind to give it a personality change.

NEW%20UNUSED%20Ninco%20Slot%20Car%20Ford%20Ranger_2.jpg

I've had success with a metho bath for removing paint and tampo on SCX and Scaley shells, so figured the same method would be fine on Ninco.

 

Gave it a tentative soak to test before plunging the shell straight in for the long haul. Two hours in soaking and a scrub with a toothbrush results in nothing. Not even the surface of the printing has been broken. Gave it another couple of hours with still no visible results.

 

So. Does anyone have a no fail, no fuss, quick results formula for use in stripping a Ninco shell?

 

Cheers

Embs


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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why the removal of paint nesacary, would have thought a light sand or steel wool enough? Is it nesacary or perfection?

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why the removal of paint nesacary, would have thought a light sand or steel wool enough? Is it nesacary or perfection?

 

I believe she wants to repaint it..

 

Sanding the shell is time consuming and can easily result in loss of detail...


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Neil, removal is preferred for repaint. Otherwise it is likely to have problems with paint adhering to the printed areas, or there could be an edge show through the paint layer. No point spending time and effort doing a paint job without prepping first.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Neil, removal is preferred for repaint. Otherwise it is likely to have problems with paint adhering to the printed areas, or there could be an edge show through the paint layer. No point spending time and effort doing a paint job without prepping first.

 

last time I painted was in my teens, always new/clean. Others were clear lexen. Will be watch'n, have some brand new n'cars that I'd like to change, but didn't think I would need to strip first, seeing there painted but unhandled,dammaged,chipped.

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Ninco cars are coated with a substance handed down by alien technology, area 51 and all that. The flying saucer which landed on Roswell had the same coating. It's there to stop you from stripping their cars and make you buy those hideously expensive white shells they sell.

 

I have a sealed container (sandwich box) with Isopropyl Alcohol which strips most things except Ninco. I have had some success with very very very fine wire wool and acetone free nail polish remover but you need to test first and be really careful.

 

There is a product available here in the UK which I haven't tried but I have seen some good reports by people using it. If you e mail them I'm sure they will tell you if a similar solution is available in Down Under Land.

That's if you want to go to a ton of trouble. Personally I won't go near a Ninco repaint with a blow torch.

 

http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/superstrip.asp

 

 

 

P1040809.jpg

This proves I did at least one Ninco.

Edited by chrisfromcrewe

Ashes to ashes funk to funky we all know Chris is a junkie.

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Thanks CfC. I've been recommended the Superstrip before, but hadn't had the need for anything quite that drastic.

 

If I had a cabinet rather than an open system I'd hit it with a light sandblast and everything would be just hunky dory. May yet give in and do that if I don't have any success with 000 grade steelwool and nail polish remover. I have used brakefluid successfully once, on a Lindberg kit body, but I think the was more luck than good management because it took off the ruined layer of Tamiya paint but left behind the Mr Magic silver basecoat pristine and untouched.

 

Damaging the shell won't matter too much, seeing as it's being turned from a raid truck to a feral ute.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Embs, as nail polish remover is basically Normal Propyl Acetate, a touch of Normal Propyl Alcohol, some Ethyl Acetate and some Ethanol (E/A3 added), I reckon I could make up a batch for you...

crazy-professor.jpg


Cheers,

Dick

 

SCMR build thread

Woodbrook Valley build thread

 

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

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Thanks Dick. Is there a glass and a half of full cream dairy milk in that? ;)


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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I'm not a chemist, mixed a bit of stuff in my time, "are you going to San Francisco", but I've been told ACETONE-FREE. These plastics are all different. I bought a SCX Bugatti left it soaking in the tub overnight and it turned into a wobbly wobbly car. As flexible as you can get and nothing then fitted. totally ruined it. If you ask nicely I'll tell you what happened when I put a Fly Panoz in the microwave, a cat in the wheelie bin and a small package marked inflammable outside the Northern Bank.

 

To be serious, some of these cars are coated before the paint and tampo are applied. This seems to be over a clear shell. If you can keep this in place then it's a good base from which to work. If you get into it then you end up having to remove the whole coating which can add weeks to your rebuild.

 

Good luck. Take some before pictures to remember what you spent your money on.

Edited by chrisfromcrewe

Ashes to ashes funk to funky we all know Chris is a junkie.

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Emb I have for years relied on caustic soda for stripping paint I have used it on many things without drama but must admit that I haven't tried it on a ninco but its cheap enough and your local s/markt should carry some -try about a 1/4 of a can in around 5l of water and be sure to add the caustic to the water not the reverse it will get very hot when you first mix it so wait for it to cool give it a stir in the mean time and be sure to use protective gloves whilst using some eye protection as well leave the body soak for a couple of hours then try scrubbing with a tooth brush preferably not your own and keep repeating if at first there is no change I have left some bodies in the caustic for days with no ill effects except for one resin body that I forgot about for some considerable time ahh not good.

good luck Viv

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I usually just give the bodies a sand. Just enough to get rid of the tampo. Some of the existing paint is usually left behind. Just give the body a few good coats of undercoat & you are set to go. Never have had a problem with the new paint reacting with the old paint.

 

Like you I have used a metho bath but on a NSR & slotit that I screwed up the paint with. That worked well. Strange that ninco dosnt work.

 

Gee Viv thats the longest paragraph of writing I have seen from you. Usually 1 word replies


Thanks

Greg

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Not exactly heartened to hear everyone either has trouble with or avoids repainting Ninco cars. I'm not sure how I'll progress yet. At least I have a few options to test before hitting the sandblaster.

 

Thanks

Embs


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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After much research it appears isopropyl is the way to go - soaked for 60 minutes.

 

Of course isopropyl is rather hard to find these days due to the narcos so finding it in quantity and close to 100% form is more difficult than normal....

 

One litre bottle on it's way so hopefully by the end of the week I'll have some news.......

 

Bugger - hope the 0000 wool doesn't work...... don't have any of that stuff at present....

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There's b'all difference between Isoprop and Meths. Methylated spiritis is methanol at around 98%. I've not been able to buy Isoprop in town, so I haven't been able to compare the two.

 

I have found that Ninco cars varying greatly for stripping. The classics that I've done are fine and easy in the meths bath, but I still haven't had any luck with the Ranger. Bought the caustic soda to try on the Ranger, but never got around to doing it.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Thanks Phil / Embs for the responses.........

 

After yesterdays Meth bath bunnings took some more $$$ and the 0000 steel wool was given a go - granted it does take the paint off but OMG it's hard work. It'll probably take about 3 hours of scrubbing to completely remove the paint. 30 mins down another 2.5 hours to go. The body is as smooth as anything with the wool.

 

Iso won't arrive until Thursday at the earliest and I'll report back then to see if it is any better at removing and fingers crossed helps reduce the 3 hours down to less than10 minutes.

 

Happy days

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Just did a Ninco Lightning Megane last weekend with metho - about 1.5hrs in total with a medium toothbrush. Let it soak 15-20mins then scrub repeat until all paint gone. Actually the last couple of Nincos I have done has been metho and a couple of Scaleys.


If it doesn`t have wheels and an engine it`s not sport!

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