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shodan

Eastside Raceway

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Following on from my last post- here's a pic to illustrate the squeeze better:

XSqdSdD.jpg

 

So, September update: The work continues... after resting on my laurels for a while and enjoying some good racing with a few folk, it was time to get on with it. First task was to add some texture and weathering over the base coat to the concrete surfaces... of which there are a lot.

 

Mixed up many shades of gray to add mottling to the concrete- not sure if I got to fifty :lol:

nnUwLEc.jpg

(thanks to @Farrout for contributing to this image , check out his track if you haven't already )

 

First by mottling the base with different grays..

2Wzjqbf.jpg

 

Long process!

10QnjWr.jpg

 

Then dry brushing followed by a dark wash to blend the shades together

Q5S1EZ1.jpg

 

Then panel lining and grime streaks

Vot6ftk.jpg

 

I used as much reference as possible for these. Wasn't sure how it would pan out, but after many hours.. starting to pay off!

muPizTE.jpg

 

You could just go on and on. I still need to do the infill ground areas, but all vertical surfaces apart from the support pillars are complete.

 

bwiqkk3.jpg

 

After the first texturing and weathering pass was completed, it was time to move on to marking apexes and walls.

No pictures of the prep work but it was epic. It took me 5 days(!) to mask up by hand, then 1.5 hours to cover the track surface, then 20 minutes of actual painting using quality Montana spray paint.

But the results speak for themselves:

CXhHYgy.jpg

 

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Custom chevron pattern for the wall edges:

mokkL5K.jpg

 

I was a little lax with my masking and got some overspray of the yellow on a couple of sections, which you can see to the right of this pic.

5TI4xfk.jpg

 

5Jj3xCE.jpg

 

Added some detail to the gantry to reinforce and complete the structure. Base-coated it in Tamiya gun metal gray for a nice metallic look.

TJMbIPb.jpg

 

And finally- a lighting test.

TlaqIPB.jpg

 

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On 9/5/2020 at 8:59 AM, knoath said:

G'day Bry! That looks fantastic! 

Awesome to see you're still into it, it's amazing what a decade away can do! I'm currently (slowly) building a new track too.

Dick! good to see you're still kicking my man. Come race some cars when lockdown is over bud.

Yeah had a long break but I'm back baby..

New track hey- what progress have you made?

 

On 9/5/2020 at 9:52 AM, SlotsNZ said:

 VB

 

Please don't bring that filth into my thread Mark

 

On 9/10/2020 at 9:00 PM, Mobbzee said:

Nicely refreshed .... 

looking good

Cheers Paul. Long time mate hope you're well?

Yes- very happy with the progress now

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Bry, I'll post a thread on my track.

Mate, your concrete looks incredible! 

I am planning on adding lighting to my track too, so don't be shy with the camera on how you go about it...

Lockdown? No such thing in my suburb... ;)

Edited by knoath

Cheers,

Dick

 

SCMR build thread

Woodbrook Valley build thread

 

"A Man's home is his castle, but his garage is his sanctuary!"

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Next phase:
I was tossing up between signage and lighting but as I can't get the printing done for the signage, lighting won.

The design I scribbled way back in 2011 has remained in my head, continuing the modern and industrial theme. It was time to finalise it for production based on the prototype- I decided to add some height and reduce the head angle from 45 to 40. Months ago I'd ordered some plastic H beam stock, enough to do 15 light poles. Of these 8 would be double headed.

I wanted nice bright LEDs, enough light to race the cars without ambient support but not completely flooding the track. Ended up choosing a 5mm high-CRI model from Yuji rated at 8 lumen/15k mcd with a 45° view angle. They draw up to 30ma. The lights are on a separate 12vdc psu.

Each light is removable and modular so the wiring would be done in parallel with a resistor for each LED. Decided to use JST connectors- cheap and only plug in one way. Perfect.

 

 

area-light-concept.jpg

 

 

First started milling up the plastic with a rotary tool mounted to a holder with compound table which made easy work getting clean consistent angles.

NTVyTBg.jpg

 

For the lenses I used some 9mm perspex I had laying around. I ripped a strip of this on my table saw and crosscut some small sections.

The light heads were assembled and welded together, then I drilled out the hole to accept the LED. I decided to punch all the way through to eliminate any dispersion underneath and simplify the drilling operations...

dPtJLHB.jpg

Ho7ahW6.jpg

Then the heads welded to the poles

K2odqKa.jpg

 

Welding the clean cuts together gave an excellent bond, seamless on most of them after a brief file

kAsOpS4.jpg

 

Finally the bases with flange to mount onto the table. I didn't have access to a 3d printer but that would be the way to go

GEW8kWE.jpg

 

Assembled one to test the height, just to make sure.. It's a little taller than the plywood test rig

uisqmWe.jpg

 

Happy with that so onto the base gussets

XdlBGEE.jpg

 

Next- prepping material for wire cutting and stripping, soldering...

iXE8D31.jpg

 

LEDs mounted through the back of the head so the flange holds them in place

4KmQztD.jpg

 

Positioned resistors to be hidden by the base

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One down, 14 to go...

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Done!

xXapNpi.jpg

 

In order to finish the installation I had to build the hairpin island I'd been planning for a while. I wasn't happy with it all flat, just looked wrong.

Cut the island shape out of mdf, with a ply base

LknhTSj.jpg

 

Decided to use blue xps for the walls. First time using it, I've had some kicking around for a while.

It might be possible to use 3mm mdf but it seemed like it would be a lot of effort, based on my previous experience

e8FCYRK.jpg

 

Initial pass with a hot wire cutter. This left a lot of ripples so I think it's underpowered for this stuff.

emGG2ko.jpg

 

But the stuff can be shaped with common tools so no big deal. Creates a huge mess though, be warned!

e3Ivosp.jpg

 

The reference I used was a tutorial that recommended poly filla for the surface protection but I only had builders bog. I don't recommend it, couldn't get a nice finish.

Not a problem in this application however as I liked the resulting rough look. Primed and spray painted in the same colour as the rest.

For some extra detail I scribed in some lines on the section of base plate to resemble gutter areas and carved a drain near the end.

8kY6dMw.jpg

 

Finally got everything wired up.

Sorry for the potato pic but I've misplaced my DSLR battery charger.... I'll find it and redeem myself :D

3xVm1bp.jpg

 

More lighting to come, see you soon...

 

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14 hours ago, SlotsNZ said:

Looking cracking mate

 

10 hours ago, Shaynus said:

Top notch ideas and execution there!

 

Thanks gents. I'm mostly satisfied with the lighting so far although my concern is the bank does not get enough light, but perhaps the reduced visibility will encourage drivers to ease off a little.

Given the camber angle it's not common to deslot there under normal driving conditions, except for the fastest cars with which you do need to back off a bit.

An option is to mount some LEDs hidden behind the monitor, pointing down.

 


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9 hours ago, shodan said:

 

 

Thanks gents. I'm mostly satisfied with the lighting so far although my concern is the bank does not get enough light, but perhaps the reduced visibility will encourage drivers to ease off a little.

Given the camber angle it's not common to deslot there under normal driving conditions, except for the fastest cars with which you do need to back off a bit.

An option is to mount some LEDs hidden behind the monitor, pointing down.

 

You would find that if you were actually doing dark driving, that you quickly adapt - both with eyes adjusting to low light levels, AND simply to driving a section with limited light.
So just give it a go sometime, you will likely find it works out just fine

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On 10/26/2020 at 7:43 PM, knoath said:

Wow!!! Your detail work is impressive mate! Well done!

Cheers Dick. I enjoy the process of building elements up, just have to chip away on a section at a time

On 10/27/2020 at 4:38 AM, SlotsNZ said:

You would find that if you were actually doing dark driving, that you quickly adapt - both with eyes adjusting to low light levels, AND simply to driving a section with limited light.
So just give it a go sometime, you will likely find it works out just fine

Yeah that was my general thinking too re adapting to the light levels.

Had a bit of a session last night, first in a while. We found that it was fine for racing but it was definitely easier to track cars with light kits (obviously) compared to unlit ones.

So while it's currently doable I think I'm going to add a few more :)

 

tr6zyth.jpg

 

 

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