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dangermouse

Revell Shelby Daytona Cobra

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Hello

 

Since reading up a bit on the GT40 - I noticed that there were a lot of Shelby Cobra that raced with the GT40s, so I went looking for them and have found that only Revell makes them. Anybody got one? Was wondering what they are like ? Trying to work out if they are worth the $65+ to get one.

 

1964_shelby_cobra_daytona_coupe_blue_01.jpg

 

 

cheers

DM

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Yeah, Phil's right. I chopped up the chassis of mine and tried to fit in a Slot.it motor pod but still couldn't get it to work right. Am now looking at scratching up a chassis to fit under that beautiful body - it's too nice to leave lying around doing nothing. :)


Lim

 

I enjoy racing. Winning or losing is secondary.

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Hi DM

 

The guys above are right on !

 

Beautiful to look at but would have to be the single most disapointing car to drive .

 

Perro has shoe horned a slot.it chassis into one and it goes well . I have cut the interior out of one and used a drivers tray to get an inline SCX motor working well . When I say working well I mean to run with NC1 classic sports cars .Perro's slot.it chassis car goes better if outright speed is what you are looking for .

 

But as mentioned I wouldn't pay too much for one .

 

Paul

Edited by paulthetexan

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I've owned a few over the years as they look the complete stink on the track!!!

 

But as the guys have said, no combination of weight, no amount of magnetic down-force (I even removed the spare tyre in the rear window to reduce top weight) will save this slot car through a 'S' series corner. Nice to look at though. :)

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thanks for the replies - well if one comes up for $25 I might get it :) other wise not one to spend $65 on.

 

I have the Revell E-Type Jag and it is not the best runner so I suspected the Cobra would be the same, thought I would check in case it was a good runner

 

Same about Revell I find the bodies to be quite good detail and scale wise - but they are let down by the running gear. Wouldn't be a problem if they retailed for half what they do I suppose

 

cheers

DM

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thanks for the replies - well if one comes up for $25 I might get it :) other wise not one to spend $65 on.

 

I have the Revell E-Type Jag and it is not the best runner so I suspected the Cobra would be the same, thought I would check in case it was a good runner

 

Same about Revell I find the bodies to be quite good detail and scale wise - but they are let down by the running gear. Wouldn't be a problem if they retailed for half what they do I suppose

 

cheers

DM

Nice one to replicate Brocky's last drive!


West Australian Slot Car Racing Group

web: www.waslotcarracinggroup.com

email: syd.miller@outlook.com scott.kendal@bigpond.com

mob: Syd 0413 020 421 or Chris 0435086304

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Syd, there was a silver or unpainted version of one of those Shelby Cobra's kicking around our neck of the woods on the weekend (1:1 scale in Perth)... it may have been a replica??? If it wasn't that model car it was something that looked extremely(!!!) similar... I'm familiar with old muscle cars, so I don't think I was mistaken. It looked like a work in progress like it was in bare metal that someone was giving a quick run.

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The Revell Daytona Coupe runs great on the Ninco Porsche 911/934 chassis. Even when using the stock front/rear axle/crown/wheels/tires.

 

CIMG1837.jpg

 

In the rear the chassis is mounted much like on the MRRC Cobra's, using a cut off part of the rear lower interior shelf to lock the chassis to the body. The front body posts where extended with styrene tubes, and new holes drilled into the chassis pans. The chassis side-pans where cut too narrow from when it was used in another project, but it works OK.

 

CIMG1836.jpg

 

Couldn't find the pic with the finished interior, but basically I cut the dashboard off and glued it to the body, and re-shaped the driver a bit and glued him to the motor (after painting the motor flat black), also glued the spare wheel back into the lower rear shelf.

 

Basically it looks as good as original from a feet's distance, and drives very nice. One of the tricks is to use a low reving torqy motor if you stick with the stock gears and big diameter wheels. The NC-5 is still a bit too much, a NC-2 would be better.

 

I'll take some better pics later.

Edited by 356speedster

gallery_434_503_9937.jpg

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Maybe they would be a candidate for a flat-6 as inline, to give more space for some kind of hard plasrtic intrerior, or the Ninco Lotus Exige chassis as short can angle-winder.

 

Had one of these, sold it, regret it.....


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
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Scored one overnight for a fair price (not the $25 you paid Phil) but well under the $65 I had seen them for. So when it arrives I will start a new thread detailing how I got it running :)

 

I think I have a spare Ninco chassis floating around so that might be the go, thanks 356 - what are the stock gears? I remember my Rev/Mon Lola had a big pinion on it. Maybe worth a change.

 

While we are talking gears - has anyone used the Plafit - plastic pinions/gears? are they compatible with Scalextric cars? I can get a bag of them for $3 versus $12 for the Scalextric ones. Even their brass ones are cheaper than slot.it. I see they do gears for 3/32" axles now for 1/32 scale cars so was thinking this could be a good option for gearing up cars compared to slot.it or NSR gears. ie I can get a pack of 4 plastic or 2 brass pinions and a spur gear for $8 vs $18 for a slot.it (both prices quoted of auslot sponsors websites)

 

Maybe I will use the fixes I do on it to tune up big '76 Corvette - that was a disappointing car, my son really liked it, it was his second car and he was quite disappointed with how it drove compared to his slot.it McLarern :) - still he liked that Muscle car look.

 

cheers

DM

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If I remember correctly the stock Revell gearing on the first release (the light blue #5 car) was 9/26 and 9/27 on the later releases (darker blue #13, #15 and #54). So the gear ratio is not really the issue in the first place. What makes the gear ratio the "issue" is the combination of large diameter rear wheels (about 23 mm) and a high revving motor. At 12 volt the Revell S-can revs about 25.000 RPM compared to 20-21000 for the typical Scalextric S-can and 15.000 for and Ninco NC-1. In addition the Revell S-can needs to rev high to get good brakes.

 

15% larger rolling diameter + 10% more RPM in the motor results in high top speed, weak brakes and not enough torque to slide out the rear. Combine these "features" with a tall and narrow body with an extremely heavy interior and a chassis designed to rely on magnets, and you got the reason why it drives so bad.

 

My goal for the Daytona was first of all to make it fun to drive no-mag, and secondly make it run with other Ninco Classics without having to replace all of the running gear, so I left the stock axles, wheels and tires. At the moment it's too fast with the NC-5, but a NC-2 or NC-8 should correct that. The handling is better than the Ninco Jaguar XK120 though, so I'll have to fit some weights here and there to handicap it a bit :)

 

But I have also tuned another Daytona, simply by replacing the motor with a slower RPM S-Can motor (can-drive), a smaller pinion and added a heavy brass plate ("handling plate") under the stock chassis to lower the gravity (lots of space under that chassis). That one is more on par with the Ninco Classics in lap-times, but it's quite heavy and feel a bit too planted, so I think it needs a lighter interior and a less weight under the chassis to "liven it up" again to make it more fun :)

 

Depending on what your goal is, there are lot's of chassis options if you want it to be fast: Ninco Cobra chassis, Ninco Ferrari 166, MRRC Cobra (front motor), Revell/MRRC Sebring (slimcan) etc... For a heavier and even faster car the MJK adjustable steel chassis or Parma Excalibur should be able to fit nicely.

 

The Daytona Coupe is such an icon, it deserves to be made better.

Edited by 356speedster

gallery_434_503_9937.jpg

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If you are a fan of Shelby Racing and Dan Gurney, then the Daytona Cobra is a nice addition to the slot garage.

 

_thegurneybondurantshelbycobra-vi.jpg

 

What're you planning to run it against DM? Got any GTOs?

Edited by KarKraft

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Hi KK, no GTOs yet - waiting for one to come up at the right price and or the right livery -I think the Fly ones would be the best bet and that being the case I am reluctant to spend top dollar as I suspect they will need some work. (That and I have bought too many slot cars this past month as it is - and I haven't even got any of my must get list #6 and #2 Scaley GT40 are starters)

 

which GTO would you recommend?

 

cheers

DM

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LOL - I don't know!

 

I'm not enamoured with Fly, but it looks right.

 

The Scaley you know would be a competent runner but the wheels look wrong.

 

:) I'm guessing it'd be easiest to change the wheels on the Scaley...

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LOL - I don't know!

 

I'm not enamoured with Fly, but it looks right.

The Scaley you know would be a competent runner but the wheels look wrong.

:) I'm guessing it'd be easiest to change the wheels on the Scaley...

 

I can pick up a Fly one for $60 + post with Racer wire wheels - I am tempted except post is from the US so could be $10 or $30 - still the racer wheels are like $29 a set anyway..

 

Think I will keep my eye out for a bargain Fly or scaley car and do something with the wheels.

 

cheers

DM

Edited by dangermouse

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Car arrived today, one sweet looking car - a classic must for my favourite era.

IMG_2525.jpg

 

It drives a bit like the E Type Jag, which is running nice enough to make it a pleasant drive (even if it wouldn't win a race) so I will apply similar techniques on the Cobra

 

This is really quite a small car, I am impressed by the finish, Revell/Mono do a good job in that department, clearly they are magnet racers - I am thinking of upgrading my next track to magnabraid - I guess when doing a cost analysis I should factor in how much it costs to tune cars that aren't made to run on wood (eg $35 for my Autoart Mustang) I am sure I could easily cover the extra cost of the magna braid

cheers

DM

Edited by dangermouse

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Lovely!

 

Like the Bluestreak tyres and the visible spare.

 

Post some pics of any mods you make.

 

(says to self: "save your money for later, save your money for later, save your....")

Edited by KarKraft

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says to self: "save your money for later, save your money for later, save your...."

 

I know that feeling, I bought a Scaley Calsonic Skyline thinking it was a Takara car - which it isn't - and now I wish I hadn't so I could have bought the Fly GT40 I found at a good price... says to self - you already have enough GT40s and Slot.it are releasing 2 you know you will have to buy. Probably wouldn't be so bad if the car had arrived already but it is on a slow boat from Canada..

 

cheers

DM

 

- ah do you mean the transporter or the AC Cobra? not 100% convinced I like the AC Cobra - but do have my eye out for one...

maybe next years purchase :huh:

Edited by dangermouse

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ps pic didn't load for me??

 

Yeah, fixed sort of. (Chose a different pic. Try a google image search on Shelby transporter)

 

Manitouguy was working on one of these on another forum -

 

t1.jpg

Edited by KarKraft

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The various Ford teams working in the US in the '60s used these prime movers, including Shelby, Team Lotus and Alan Mann.

 

Here's Allan Moffat driving the Team Lotus truck -

 

TeamLotusdriver.jpg

 

When the Alan Mann team withdrew from the US in the '60s they left one of these and a couple of Lotus Cortinas with Allan Moffat. cortgreenvalley677.jpg

 

He got to use it and it looks as though it got pressed into service when he raced a 'privateer' Mercury Cougar with Bud Moore. Hence the Cortina racing signage. This one is Moffat's - you can tell by the Holiday Cars sponsorship it features here:

 

transporter.jpg

Edited by KarKraft

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